bassboysam
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These just arrived. Letting them burn in but i noticed a drastic difference in low end punch and overall clarity over the stock GE tubes with both my 325i and WS99.
Quick question, my amp seems to be running hotter than before the tube swap. Is this normal?
It has been a long time since I have used EF 95 and EF 92 tubes, so I do not remember how hot the M8161 ran. What I can say is that it is completely normal for some tubes to run hotter than others. This is likely nothing to worry about.
Hi AFB, given grid 1 is furthered through pin1, how would you physically connect pin1 to pin2 for the cathode strap and then connect pin 7 (grid 3) to the pin1 socket hole in a way that isolates those two and considering that pin1 itself is still present? Without an adapter of course.
Getting used to the heptode 1-7 sound - sounds better and better. Looks like the bass opened up on my 6BY6 RCA's after some 40-50 hours and it became more powerful. Delicious sound...WOW!
Tried running RCA 1-7 and TS 6AH6WA 2-7 at the same time. (Nothing will blow up; the amp is made with two separate sections.) In theory it works, but practically something is missing. Perhaps the lack of some kind of synergistic effect of not having both channels the same. Or in other words: A person may like ice cream and steak, but together - forget it! Have to give up on two different tubes at the same time - doesn't work.
Listening to an early digital recording of light classical music on the Telearc label - remember those? One track has a bunch of cannon/rifle shots. The recording starts innocently with strings - and suddenly: BANG! Used to go into a HI-Fi store and ask them to play this track and crank up the volume. When the shots rang out the salesman would run up to the system and shut it off, thinking that the speakers blew. (As far as I know it never happened.)
Unfortunately, I cannot find a recording with the cannon shots of Freikugeln by Johann Strauss on Youtube. Anyhow, the recording I have is with the Cincinnati Pops Orchestra with Erich Kunzel from 1993. (Magic Bullets Polka)
For the thrill of four shots, I found this 30 second excerpt on Amazon (but MP3 does not do the recording justice):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AUMD5E/ref=dm_mu_dp_trk6
Have fun!
Ahah! Now that's a good question. Short answer is: I don't know, lol. But I do have clues -hard to actually use, but ideas nonetheless.
Strapping pin 1 to pin 2 without using socket hole 1 wouldn't be too hard on tubes with fairly solid pins -pins that don't break off when bent a little- you could just bend pin 1 inwards and, I guess, solder it to pin 2 close to the glass. Ugly, cumbersome, but it should work if done correctly; tube would not go very deep in the socket though but that should be OK.
Linking pin 7 somehow to empty socket hole 1 is a different story. The best "idea" I could come up with, short of an adapter, would be -and it's a little risky- to use a broken off pin from another tube (clean, straight and good quality), add a small bend to it (to be able to take it out of of socket hole, otherwise it would get stuck in there the second you push it in), and insert it into socket hole 1 along with the usual pin 7-1 mod wire, and the tube itself -taking care to isolate each modded pin from the next modded pin.
Yeah, it's difficult, but for just for testing purposes, I'd say it's pretty doable. Anyone willing to try lol? For the record, I have found that pins on US tubes are more solid and snap off more cleanly than on UK tubes, just my 2 cents.
I can -I might actually- try it, but on the MK IV with the brass protections, it is actually harder to "get in there" with a pair of needle pliers, and manhandle a broken pin in and out of a socket hole (yes, I know you can remove the brass parts, but I don't want to, it's what makes my unit look nice lol!). Testing this mod on a socket saver -and out of the actual MK unit- first might be a better idea.
Unstrapped and with grid 3 left to float away on a lonely journey away from the 4 other grids, things got much better imo. So, yes, first conclusion here -that many people had pointed out- while the strapping technique might seem "right" and seems to almost always give more detail, it doesn't always give the best sound either, and sometimes leaving grid 3 floating actually sounds more realistic. It is the case with these tubes; I got about as much upper end detail that way, better treble extension, better and larger soundstage (nothing like my strapped 5915 though!), and thinner but better and clearer mids and bass. On the floated setting, these are very very nice tubes, but I still prefer the 5915 for their boundless and speaker-like soundstage, and overall sense over "being there"; the Tele are not exactly forward when floated, but still more forward than the 5915 -like most tubes then again. Many here would love these tubes.
Second, I got my "Made in Holland" E91H in the mail today. Here I was expecting O-getter Philips Heerlen E91H dual labeled with a UK military CV number, exactly like gibosi's Amperex E91H, but what I got is actually much more interesting.
Getting used to the heptode 1-7 sound - sounds better and better. Looks like the bass opened up on my 6BY6 RCA's after some 40-50 hours and it became more powerful. Delicious sound...WOW!
Quote:Second, I got my "Made in Holland" E91H in the mail today. Here I was expecting O-getter Philips Heerlen E91H dual labeled with a UK military CV number, exactly like gibosi's Amperex E91H, but what I got is actually much more interesting.
Please, do try them 2/7-strapped =)
Quote:Getting used to the heptode 1-7 sound - sounds better and better. Looks like the bass opened up on my 6BY6 RCA's after some 40-50 hours and it became more powerful. Delicious sound...WOW!
Welcome in heptode land =)
could we use ECH84, ECH200 and 6JX8 here? Plenty high quality examples around.....
Had a similar experience with the RCA 6BY6 heptodes. They sounded good, but suddenly after around 40 hours they "woke up" and the low end become much better. Wonder if others have had such experiences with heptodes?
Seems that many tubes need around 20 hours of burn in, some around 50 hours, and of course the champ here is the Voskhods that need 120 hours!