[gibosi]

Quote:

Would material used be important for the strapping i guess copper is better than steel right .Update found some copper wire made a few straps seems to help the bass department and everything else  humm !

 
And again, make sure you are using stranded wire, no larger than 26 gauge. Otherwise, you risk damaging your sockets.... 

 

[MIKELAP]

i was using the 18 gauge stripping part on my tool ill just remove a few extra strands with my needlenose thanks for saving me the pain of possibly having to upgrade to a Littledot 4se since i would have broken my dear litledot mk3 d..........m 

thanks for the advice gibosi.

 

[mordy]

About wires:
 
Cannot conjure up too much enthusiasm for exotic/fancy/expensive wires, especially for such a short run as is needed for the jumpers. IMHO the main thing is very thin stranded wires that don't enlarge the pin-outs in the socket. Looking at the pins that come out of the tubes, there is a very small contact area, and I am sure that the tube pins pushed into the socket use even less of the full contact area. Many times when one channel is dead you just have to wiggle the tube a little to make it work.
 
My personal opinion is that fancy wires work as tone controls. I may be wrong on this point, and there are plenty of people who disagree, but nevertheless, this is my humble opinion. (Seems that the more expensive the Hi-Fi interconnects are, the better the sound...)
 

 

[MIKELAP]

Is there any  of you guys that had the mk3 and now have the mk4se ,is it really worth it .thanks

 

[gibosi]

Quote:

Is there any  of you guys that had the mk3 and now have the mk4se ,is it really worth it .thanks

 
I too have been thinking about buying one of these... But which one to get? And it occurs to me that since you already have all the tubes you need, maybe they would be willing to sell you a mk4se without tubes at a reduced price?

 

[Audiofanboy]

If I had to do it all over again, I'd still get an MK IV -preferably SE- but it does seem silly to be paying for those "premium" tubes, though you could easily sell them I guess.
 
Having taken a good hard look at the PCB for both MK III and IV back when I was trying to understand how the units triode-strapped tubes, I can say that the IV has much larger caps and other components, both for power and driver tubes -hence its size- which just can't be a bad thing. Considering the cash spent on tubes, I would just hate to not be sure I got the better one. MK III has obvious better value, but I'd still get the IV for its native -as in "it's made around those"- use of 6N30P tubes.
 
If you sell the tubes, a IV SE is not that expensive really... (and gibosi, if you intend to use those $200+ -DR tubes, it would seem weird to do so on an MK III worth less than the tubes lol!)

 

[MIKELAP]

Quote:

 
I too have been thinking about buying one of these... But which one to get? And it occurs to me that since you already have all the tubes you need, maybe they would be willing to sell you a mk4se without tubes at a reduced price?

You read my mind the SE is $100.00 more than the regular one and it comes with the electro harmonic tubes that i just paid almost $85.00 for so whats left is it just that upgraded tubes anybody know are the electronics inside different between the regular model and the se model ? any of you guys know thank you . edited : are the internals of the 4 and the 4se are the same ?

 

[inphu510n]

You read my mind the SE is $100.00 more than the regular one and it comes with the electro harmonic tubes that i just paid almost $85.00 for so whats left is it just that upgraded tubes anybody know are the electronics inside different between the regular model and the se model ? any of you guys know thank you .

I believe the LD forum page for the MKIV states that the SE has "upgraded components in key signal path locations".

 

[MIKELAP]

saw this on a review of the mk4 se .What does this mean exactly.    Thats a while ago    you can still tube roll with the mk4 se right !
                                                                                                                                                                       *****UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE AS OF 01-11-08 UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE*****

Word from DavidZ at Little-Dot, about the MKIVse and it's default tubes:
"The WE408A is a 20V filament tube so the front driver tube voltage is modified to 6.3V for the M8100. The rear 6H30PI has a different pin-out and characteristics from the E182CC. At this point we are completely out of the E182CC vacuum tubes, and we have a few months supply of the 6H30PI left. Therefore all MK IV SE from this point on will be M8100 and 6H30PI version until we run out of 6H30PI tubes, at which point the MK IV SE will be discontinued. I hope this helps!"

So, from now on, the MKIVse will be hard wired to use the M8100 and 6H30PI tubes. When Little-Dot runs out, the "se" version is all gone. 

The MKIV and MKIVse are real power savers!!! The average power usage is only 30 watts!! 1/2 a light bulb! Love it!!! 

 

[mordy]

Hi Mikelap,
 
I am sure that electricity is cheap in Canada, but not here in New York. 1/2 a light bulb would be 6.5W - using CFLs rated at 13 W which is a 60W equivalent LOL.
 
I asked David Zhe Zhe about the difference between the MkIII and MKIV and he seemed to indicate that the MKIII was "the sweet spot in the line." My impression was that they would sound similar (except for the upgraded tubes) and that the MKIII would be the better value. But hey, if you would sleep better knowing that you have the MKIVse, why not? (I would go for two MKIIIs though LOL)
 
When I asked him what would be a substantial upgrade he said the MKVI amp with balanced inputs. It looks to me that it has since been discontinued, but it is still available to buy from other sources. Here is a link:
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Little-Dot-MK-VI-MK6-Balanced-Headphone-Amplifier-Pre-Amplifier-Black-/110881617468?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item19d10f363c
 
Thing is that I am very happy with the MKIII and personally don't feel a need to upgrade, but, who knows.....
 
Still waiting for the final results of the excursions into the tube alphabet - which tube is going to be crowned the supertube for the MKIII?
Then I will contact David Zhe Zhe to produce the MKIIIsi AFB version with built in socket strap switches.
 

 

[mab1376]

Quote:

Hi Mikelap,
 
I am sure that electricity is cheap in Canada, but not here in New York. 1/2 a light bulb would be 6.5W - using CFLs rated at 13 W which is a 60W equivalent LOL.
 
I asked David Zhe Zhe about the difference between the MkIII and MKIV and he seemed to indicate that the MKIII was "the sweet spot in the line." My impression was that they would sound similar (except for the upgraded tubes) and that the MKIII would be the better value. But hey, if you would sleep better knowing that you have the MKIVse, why not? (I would go for two MKIIIs though LOL)
 
When I asked him what would be a substantial upgrade he said the MKVI amp with balanced inputs. It looks to me that it has since been discontinued, but it is still available to buy from other sources. Here is a link:
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Little-Dot-MK-VI-MK6-Balanced-Headphone-Amplifier-Pre-Amplifier-Black-/110881617468?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item19d10f363c
 
Thing is that I am very happy with the MKIII and personally don't feel a need to upgrade, but, who knows.....
 
Still waiting for the final results of the excursions into the tube alphabet - which tube is going to be crowned the supertube for the MKIII?
Then I will contact David Zhe Zhe to produce the MKIIIsi AFB version with built in socket strap switches.
 

 
I'm looking into buying the MK VI+ which is way better for low impedance high-current cans such as the HE-500 and up. The problem with the VI+ is the price of some of the superior power tubes (5998) since it can cost $250+ for a matched quad and the 6SN7 driver tubes can get really pricy for some higher tier tubes as well.
 
I bought the IV SE a year and a half ago and i don't use the M8100 or the 6H30PI either, i've been using all the new driver tubes with the 6N6P-IR which i believe is a superior power tube.
 
Also the VI+ isn't discontinued, he just doesn't have any pre-built in stock.
 
 
Quote:

Availability: Available with 3-4 week build time

 

[gibosi]

Quote:

saw this on a review of the mk4 se .What does this mean exactly.    Thats a while ago    you can still tube roll with the mk4 se right !
                                                                                                                                                                       *****UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE AS OF 01-11-08 UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE*****

Word from DavidZ at Little-Dot, about the MKIVse and it's default tubes:
"The WE408A is a 20V filament tube so the front driver tube voltage is modified to 6.3V for the M8100. The rear 6H30PI has a different pin-out and characteristics from the E182CC. At this point we are completely out of the E182CC vacuum tubes, and we have a few months supply of the 6H30PI left. Therefore all MK IV SE from this point on will be M8100 and 6H30PI version until we run out of 6H30PI tubes, at which point the MK IV SE will be discontinued. I hope this helps!"

So, from now on, the MKIVse will be hard wired to use the M8100 and 6H30PI tubes. When Little-Dot runs out, the "se" version is all gone. 

The MKIV and MKIVse are real power savers!!! The average power usage is only 30 watts!! 1/2 a light bulb! Love it!!! 

 
Note that this is dated January, 2008. It appears that this configuration of the MKIVse using 408A driver tubes and E182CC power  was quite temporary. And in fact, tube rolling was very limited in that configuration. You can roll all the same tubes in the current MKIVse as you can in the MKIII. So, this old history shouldn't concern you at all. See the quote below:
 
Quote:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif Here is my response from the other thread: I see your point for sure. It may make more sense to purchase the MKIV standard and spend the extra saved on better tubes. At this point, the true differences are "different motherboard & components", "better RCA jacks", "Two year warranty". If you plan to tube roll a bunch, the standard is what you should get. If tube rolling is not in your plan, then the "se" may still be worth the extra. Hope this helps some!!

Dave,

I understand now why you and other owners are so positive regarding David’s outstanding service minded attitude. Within few minutes I received his e-mail with answers regarding my previous post over Little Dot hardware and tube changes.
This is his response ;

Actually the Little Dot MK IV SE originally was designed around the WE403A (M8100 equivalents) and 6H30PI, and the earliest models included these tubes. If you read the early reviews like from Headphonesrock, you'll see the M8100 and 6H30PI listed as the stock vacuum tubes. The move to WE408A and E182CC tubes was because at one point, it looked like our supply of 6H30PI tubes had been completely cut-off so we needed to move to another set of premium vacuum tubes with a similar sound characteristic and performance. Given that we initially shipped the M8100/6H30PI version, then the WE408A/E182CC, and recently (actually for more than a month now) back to the M8100/6H30PI set, there actually are more M8100/6H30PI version out in the wild than the WE408A/E182CC. The return to the M8100 and 6H30PI tubes simply brings the MK IV SE back in line with the original design and the rest of the MK-series.

In our tests the differences in sound quality and power output are minimal as this was a priority requirement in finding a new tube complement. All the original specs listed are for the M8100/6H30PI tubes. With the M8100/6H30PI version, the tube-rolling abilities are back as well.

I hope I've answered your questions clearly, if you have any others, please let me know!

Best Regards,
David

His answer is very clear and no space for any confusing or uncertainty anymore. I will order the amp next week and this will be my first confrontation with tube sound. You all know how important the first experience is. This was probably the reason for my unnecessary uncertainty. I hope that you will understand me.
The statement remains unchanged. Little Dot’s are outstanding, high quality amps. The company deliver high service standard. .

Thank you David !!! Also many thanks to Dave ,our Little Tube guru on this site. Because of his outstanding posts, feedbacks, reviews etc the amp selection was much easier.
Thank you everyone and till next time. Best greetings to all of you

Marek

 

[Acapella11]

Quote:

If you really want to try an interesting experiment -one that should sound good- try strapping grid 1 to the cathode on a heptode, and strapping grid 3 to socket hole 1. That way, you neutralize grid 1, and only get one control grid like in a triode. That, I'd want to see someone test, if only to see how to tie a pin to an empty socket hole -of course an adapter would be way easier.

 
Hi AFB, given grid 1 is furthered through pin1, how would you physically connect pin1 to pin2 for the cathode strap and then connect pin 7 (grid 3) to the pin1 socket hole in a way that isolates those two and considering that pin1 itself is still present? Without an adapter of course.
 
 
 
Quote:

Quote:Originally Posted by mab1376 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
I bought the IV SE a year and a half ago and i don't use the M8100 or the 6H30PI either, i've been using all the new driver tubes with the 6N6P-IR which i believe is a superior power tube.

 
+1

 

[gibosi]

Quote:

Switched back to my RCA 6BY6 tubes with the 1-7 strap. Delicious, everything is there with a glorious super detailed shimmering
high end. However, I am missing the punchy bottom end, sound stage and instrument separation of my Tung Sol 6AH6WA tubes.
 
 
Right now I am listening the these wonderful heptodes - all what they are hepped up to be!

 
With all the attention recently on the European heptodes, I think many in this forum are overlooking the American versions of these 6BY6 tubes. I have the RCA 5915/6BY6 and recently spent several hours with them using the 1-7 strapping. Overall, their sound is warmer, with more relative bass presence, with a bit less air, than the strapped Siemens EK90/6BE6. Further, the RCAs seem to me to be wetter and more musical than the Siemens. While I am still in love with my Siemens, I thoroughly enjoy these RCAs. Adding to Mordy's and my experience with these RCAs you also have AFB's recent positive comments regarding his Sylvania 5915/6BY6. Therefore, I encourage those of you who have not yet tried heptodes to check these out. And for those of us in North America, these American brands are easier to find and usually quite a bit cheaper to boot!

 

[gibosi]

I recently purchased what I thought were a backup pair of the Amperex E91H. After all, they were only about $8.50 for the pair, shipped, so why not? Well, they are not quite what I expected. These are "1st generation" tubes, with D-getters and a "pinched waist".
 

 
And these are my "2nd generation" tubes with O-getters and a straight glass body.
 

 
I cooked them for about an hour and, as near as I can tell, the sound of these older tubes is indistinguishable from the newer ones. But after all, they were manufactured only about 5 years apart, in the same Heeren, Holland, factory and they are both Premium Quality. Given that, I am extremely satisfied with them, especially for what I paid.
 
If you have searched for E91H/ EH900S/5915 tubes on eBay, you may have noticed, like I have, these "pinched waist" tubes from Telefunken, Valvo and others. For example:
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Tube-Pinch-waist-Valvo-E91H-Rohre-neu-C81-/160874716544?pt=R%C3%B6hren&hash=item2574e15d80
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EH900S-EH-900S-5915-TELEFUNKEN-NOS-NEW-OWN-BOX-PINCHED-WAIST-/370832212270?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Elektronenr%C3%B6hren_Valves&hash=item565752812e
 
And now that I have these, I feel quite certain that all these "pinched waist" E91H/ EH900S/5915 tubes were manufactured in the same Heeren, Holland, factory. So if you come across a good deal on a pair these, and you want a pair of these Amperex E91H, I think you can safely go for them.