[hypnos1]

As promised, picture of the Tung Sol/Chatham 6AS7G, with top getter...
 
Interesting that the tube is slightly more elongated than the "pure" Chatham with bottom D getters.
 

 

 

[CollectoR13]

Wow, those chathams look great...
So, hypothetically, what do i need to make my 6sn7 sockets ready for those 6as7s?
I know I need a external power supply, but what exact board do I need?
And do I have to short one connection in my adapters and wire it to the power supply?
Is that how you can achieve this?
Sorry but I have no clue about these external power supply things...

 

[kvtaco17]

  As promised, picture of the Tung Sol/Chatham 6AS7G, with top getter...
 
Interesting that the tube is slightly more elongated than the "pure" Chatham with bottom D getters.
 

 

That's identical to the one that dies on me... Loved that tube lol

 

[gibosi]

  As promised, picture of the Tung Sol/Chatham 6AS7G, with top getter...
 
Interesting that the tube is slightly more elongated than the "pure" Chatham with bottom D getters.

 
Thanks for the pic! I have seen bottom getter Chatham 6AS7's with the same exact plates, that is, an unpainted band at the top and bottom, and yellow lettering on the base, so there is no doubt in my mind yours is a "real" Chatham.
 
As your tube was packed in 1960, one might speculate that Chatham's with top getters were all manufactured around 1960 and later. And perhaps, those with bottom getters were probably manufactured in the 1950's. So for example, a couple of bottom getter Chathams I see on eBay, dated 639 and 522 were probably manufactured in the 1956 and 1955, respectively.

 

[gibosi]

Wow, those chathams look great...
So, hypothetically, what do i need to make my 6sn7 sockets ready for those 6as7s?
I know I need a external power supply, but what exact board do I need?
And do I have to short one connection in my adapters and wire it to the power supply?
Is that how you can achieve this?
Sorry but I have no clue about these external power supply things...

 
As my 1+ doesn't have power tubes, Mordy and Hypnos1 might be able reply in more detail.
 
However, you will need two 6SN7 to 6DJ8 adapters, such as these:
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-6SN7-6H8C-6N8P-CV1988-B65-VT231-TO-ECC88-6922-6DJ8-6N6-6N11-tube-adapter-/201083508552?
 
And you will need two 9-pin socket savers, such as these:
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-6SN7-6H8C-6N8P-CV1988-B65-VT231-TO-ECC88-6922-6DJ8-6N6-6N11-tube-adapter-/201083508552?
 
Next, you would disassemble the socket savers and drill a hole in the housings, preferably facing towards the back of the amp. Inside the saver, solder some lamp wire to pins 4 and 5 and route the wire through the hole. Reassemble the savers and then cut off pins 4 and 5 from the bottom of the saver. Mordy has a great picture and explanation here:
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/563884/little-dot-tube-amps-vacuum-tube-rolling-guide/6405#post_10612269
 
Next, you need a power supply. Some have used desktop computer power supplies, but an 8A laptop power supply similar to this would also work:
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120W-15V-8A-AC-Power-Adapter-Charger-Power-Supply-for-Toshiba-Laptop-Computer-/310985342634?
 
and you need an 8A regulator, similar to this:
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300839166993?
 
Connect the PS to the regulator and adjust the regulator for 6.3V. Connect pins 4 of both savers together and pins 5 together, connect these wires to the output of the regulator... And you should be good to go.

 

[MMMan]

Hi Gordon (MMMan). Welcome to the thread.

Congrats on getting what I am sure you will EVENTUALLY(!) discover to be one of the (if not THE) best bargains in headphone amps...assuming you manage to wade through ALL the progress that has been made since page 81, lol! I do hope you manage to hang in there - if so, you will be handsomely rewarded -  guaranteed!

I applaud you for doing the proper "leg-work" - not everyone is prepared to put in the time and effort, sadly. In doing so, I am sure you will pick up a great deal of information and advice on many topics besides just pure "tube rolling". And any further info/advice you may need will be willingly given by the marvellous guys on this thread (a thread matched by VERY few for bonhomie, patience, understanding, helpfulness...the list goes on. And, unlike many, there is a refreshing lack of "disdain" for those with more lowly units, and/or those with limited knowledge and experience just starting out on this road).

But I do hope you aren't going to be spending the sort of bucks we all have had to in order to reach "nirvana"...skip on the spending until you reach near the end, lol!! Learn from our expenditure...not to mention mistakes!

Cheers, and HAPPY ROLLING

CJ

Thanks for the welcome CJ.

i am very patient and fully appreciate the wealth of knowledge this thread represents. My intent on starting at the start was so that I could enjoy some of the side-arc adventures each of you has shared. Perhaps my nirvana is to be found in one of these arcs, instead of at the end. Besides, if I have nothing of value for comparison, how can I appreciate your nirvana?

So, today I am running a pair of beautiful 1944 tung sol 6ak5w (mil version) as my drivers. Yesterday I dropped in a pair of 1978 6n6p-I power tubes (from Souz factory ) and they opened up the sound beautifully!! Beautiful treble, fantastic detail and very good solid deep bass. If it gets better than this, I can't wait!!

Btw, I listen with Sennheiser HD650s and through Klipsch ref series 61 speakers. I use a cheap t-amp to power the speakers, with the LD mk iv as pre-amp. The t-amp is beautifully transparent and preserves the tube pre-amp sound wonderfully....

Best wishes to all, and thanks for this wonderful thread!!!

Gordon

 

[mordy]

Welcome to the thread MMMan,
 
Gibosi's instructions are very good and thorough. However, regarding soldering in the wires into the socket extenders to the voltage regulator, it may be helpful to desolder the two pins 4&5 inside. Just remove them, and then solder in the wires into the socket pins inside the extender. This avoids cutting the pins and makes more room inside for the wires. Afterwards, a little piece of colored tape or similar may be used to mark where to insert the socket extender into the the LD socket.
 
IMHO a PC 400-500W 15A power supply will yield better results sonically than a laptop PS or similar lower powered PS.
 
I am happy to hear that you enjoy the sound of your MKIV with the TS and 6N6P-i tubes. But, if good is good, isn't better better?
 
You should know that using the top tier driver tubes and octal power tubes described in the more recent posts yields a sound that is several orders better than what you have now. And by reading carefully, you can find out how to achieve this at a low cost....

 

[MMMan]

Welcome to the thread MMMan,

Gibosi's instructions are very good and thorough. However, regarding soldering in the wires into the socket extenders to the voltage regulator, it may be helpful to desolder the two pins 4&5 inside. Just remove them, and then solder in the wires into the socket pins inside the extender. This avoids cutting the pins and makes more room inside for the wires. Afterwards, a little piece of colored tape or similar may be used to mark where to insert the socket extender into the the LD socket.

IMHO a PC 400-500W 15A power supply will yield better results sonically than a laptop PS or similar lower powered PS.

I am happy to hear that you enjoy the sound of your MKIV with the TS and 6N6P-i tubes. But, if good is good, isn't better better?

You should know that using the top tier driver tubes and octal power tubes described in the more recent posts yields a sound that is several orders better than what you have now. And by reading carefully, you can find out how to achieve this at a low cost....

Thank you for the greetings Mordy. I'm glad you are still so passionate about your sound.

I have a pair of GE 6cb6a tubes in my hand..... And a grab bag of 6485 s in the post, including 4 TS tubes, so I am ready to roll!! No short cuts here....

I'm sure I will catch up to power tube mods in about a year.

Best,

Gordon

 

[tjw321]

   
... And any further info/advice you may need will be willingly given by the marvellous guys on this thread (a thread matched by VERY few for bonhomie, patience, understanding, helpfulness...the list goes on. And, unlike many, there is a refreshing lack of "disdain" for those with more lowly units, and/or those with limited knowledge and experience just starting out on this road).
 

+1. I'm a new "member" of the tube rolling fraternity, and in my experience this is the most welcoming and least judgemental thread of any that I've posted-on on head-fi.
 
Thanks guys. 

 

 

[TrollDragon]

Hey Girls!
 
You need to check this post out for a nice bit of research from a MK III owner!
http://www.head-fi.org/t/439449/little-dot-mk-iii-mods/135#post_10697619

 

[hypnos1]

Wow, those chathams look great...
So, hypothetically, what do i need to make my 6sn7 sockets ready for those 6as7s?
I know I need a external power supply, but what exact board do I need?
And do I have to short one connection in my adapters and wire it to the power supply?
Is that how you can achieve this?
Sorry but I have no clue about these external power supply things...

 
Hi CR13. Glad to see you're keeping an eye on the thread...are you a glutton for punishment, or what?!

.
 
Also glad that gibosi (as always!) looks out for us all, and has given you good info - even though he doesn't have power tubes himself (is that keen, or what?!). Thanks also to mordy for his assistance...again, as always...I must admit, though, that my 12V, 6A, AC/DC power supply (for LED string lights, CCTV cameras etc) that can be found on ebay for $7 to $9 (free shipping from China) or $8 + shipping from Amazon, has been doing the job marvellously...no shortcomings in bass or detail/clarity in my set-up at least (I do have a good mains filter/conditioner for all my equipment though...).
 
I must admit the TS Chatham in the photo is a tad sexier than the clear-top, bottom getter (older) Chathams, but that's just being picky - they too are real sexy, lol! And the sound is so good from 'em that I can't even yet be bothered to take them out and test the TS/Ch'm!
 
 

  That's identical to the one that dies on me... Loved that tube lol

 
I feel your pain, kvt...please tell me they aren't short-lived!

.
 
 

   
Thanks for the pic! I have seen bottom getter Chatham 6AS7's with the same exact plates, that is, an unpainted band at the top and bottom, and yellow lettering on the base, so there is no doubt in my mind yours is a "real" Chatham.
 
As your tube was packed in 1960, one might speculate that Chatham's with top getters were all manufactured around 1960 and later. And perhaps, those with bottom getters were probably manufactured in the 1950's. So for example, a couple of bottom getter Chathams I see on eBay, dated 639 and 522 were probably manufactured in the 1956 and 1955, respectively.

 
Yes, I have Chathams with and without the unpainted bands. And it does look like the later ones - especially when Tung Sol became involved - went over to top getters. So the moral of the tale is to make absolutely sure one gets the Tung Sol/Chatham proper, if going Tung Sol (mine off ebay had photos, so I was OK. The one that came NOT off ebay, and with no pic, was just "Tung Sol" and thus - it would appear - the inferior (IMHO) RCA).
 

  Hey Girls!
 
You need to check this post out for a nice bit of research from a MK III owner!
http://www.head-fi.org/t/439449/little-dot-mk-iii-mods/135#post_10697619

 
That, TD, is for AMAZONIAN girls methinks! Most of us are far lesser mortals, I fear! From the look of things, there's one Hell of a lot of parameters to be aware of when dabbling in the finer points of amp electronics...and the opportunity for one Hell of a lot of (expensive) mistakes lol!!
The more I TRY to make sense of what's going on with DIYers, the more amazed I am at what these LDs can keep taking without major objection/catastrophe! Long live the little marvels - hopefully!
 
Edit: ps...nice to see at least some useful upgrades in the MKIV SE

 

[genclaymore]

So Far I enjoying my 6J1P-EB and my 6h30PI pair with my little dot mk 2 2.0. It took me a long time to pick between the power tubes and driver tubes. to get what I wanted. After I got the power tube down, I had to closed my eye and pick one of the 3 driver tubes that I was looking at.

 

[kvtaco17]

  I feel your pain, kvt...please tell me they aren't short-lived!

.
 

 
One of mine lost vacuum...BUT I assume it was damaged in shipping and I passed quickly after I used it (3 weeks) I did however find that the Chatham 6080 with the same plate construction sound very similar, just a touch less lush and a little more controlled. Short story is that I ended up loving them... one of my favorite tubes, I only prefer the 5998 and TS/Chatham graphite plate 6336 more.

 

[hypnos1]

   
One of mine lost vacuum...BUT I assume it was damaged in shipping and I passed quickly after I used it (3 weeks) I did however find that the Chatham 6080 with the same plate construction sound very similar, just a touch less lush and a little more controlled. Short story is that I ended up loving them... one of my favorite tubes, I only prefer the 5998 and TS/Chatham graphite plate 6336 more.

 
Phew! Looks like you were just unlucky with that tube, kvtaco17...I can breathe once more, lol!

. Am glad you confirmed the right choice of 6AS7G...
 
Couldn't wait any longer, so I've just popped the NOS TS/Ch'm in the left channel, with the Chatham in the right, and straight out of the box sounds loooovely. (And is definitely taller than the Chatham).
 
Unfortunately, with the price of a 5998 now in the realm of cloud cuckoo land and the 6336 having 5A heater draw and 30W! plate dissipation, methinks my MKIV SE just can't be punished any further!

. Ah well, mustn't be greedy - the sound I am now getting is way beyond expectation

...

 

[kvtaco17]

   
Phew! Looks like you were just unlucky with that tube, kvtaco17...I can breathe once more, lol!

. Am glad you confirmed the right choice of 6AS7G...
 
Couldn't wait any longer, so I've just popped the NOS TS/Ch'm in the left channel, with the Chatham in the right, and straight out of the box sounds loooovely. (And is definitely taller than the Chatham).
 
Unfortunately, with the price of a 5998 now in the realm of cloud cuckoo land and the 6336 having 5A heater draw and 30W! plate dissipation, methinks my MKIV SE just can't be punished any further!

. Ah well, mustn't be greedy - the sound I am now getting is way beyond expectation

...

 
They are warm, power hungry tubes for sure!
 
They all have similar qualities, the 5998 is the most spacious, detailed and dynamic of the trio, the 6336 has incredible bass and sweet treble and the 6080 sounds a lot like a 5998 minus the dynamics and has less detail... it however has a sweeter midrange. All glorious!