Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide
Jan 28, 2015 at 9:25 AM Post #8,941 of 13,434
So...Would you guys say the 6SN7, as a power tube, is worth dealing with buying or building adapters, or do you think that subbing the 6N6P gold grids for -IRs would be "sufficient" (I know it's subjective, obviously).
 
I'm leaning towards putting the money towards building a single adapter "plate" that handles the 6SN7 and C3G mods simultaneously.  (4) sets of sockets and (100) gold plated pins cost about 1/2 of what the pre-made adapters do...I'm sure I have some lexan/wire/standoffs/shrink tube/etc. lying around.
 
Thoughts???
 
-Mark
 
Jan 28, 2015 at 9:39 AM Post #8,942 of 13,434
  So...Would you guys say the 6SN7, as a power tube, is worth dealing with buying or building adapters, or do you think that subbing the 6N6P gold grids for -IRs would be "sufficient" (I know it's subjective, obviously).
 
I'm leaning towards putting the money towards building a single adapter "plate" that handles the 6SN7 and C3G mods simultaneously.  (4) sets of sockets and (100) gold plated pins cost about 1/2 of what the pre-made adapters do...I'm sure I have some lexan/wire/standoffs/shrink tube/etc. lying around.
 
Thoughts???
 
-Mark


Build it up, Lexan makes a great adapter base for the ceramic gold pin sockets.

 
Jan 28, 2015 at 9:43 AM Post #8,943 of 13,434
^^^I'm dealing with a MKII (for now) so I will probably create a lexan sandwich with the pins potted to the bottom layer and the sockets bolted to the top layer.
 
Solid or stranded wire connections?
 
-Mark
 
Jan 28, 2015 at 10:18 AM Post #8,944 of 13,434
Can these 1.2mm pins be used, or is the .184mm pin diameter difference too great???
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191401257016?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
Do we need to use 1mm, only?
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pc-gold-plated-Copper-tube-pins-for-you-DIY-Tube-adapter-or-others-17-1mm-/201098488778?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed2676bca
 
TIA
-Mark
 
Jan 28, 2015 at 10:45 AM Post #8,946 of 13,434
  Can these 1.2mm pins be used, or is the .184mm pin diameter difference too great???
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191401257016?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
Do we need to use 1mm, only?
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pc-gold-plated-Copper-tube-pins-for-you-DIY-Tube-adapter-or-others-17-1mm-/201098488778?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed2676bca
 
TIA
-Mark

i used 1mm but 1.2mm is only .007 thou. bigger .tube pins measure 1mm.
 
Jan 28, 2015 at 10:46 AM Post #8,947 of 13,434
  ^^^I'm dealing with a MKII (for now) so I will probably create a lexan sandwich with the pins potted to the bottom layer and the sockets bolted to the top layer.
 
Solid or stranded wire connections?
 
-Mark

 
 
  Can these 1.2mm pins be used, or is the .184mm pin diameter difference too great???
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191401257016?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
Do we need to use 1mm, only?
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pc-gold-plated-Copper-tube-pins-for-you-DIY-Tube-adapter-or-others-17-1mm-/201098488778?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed2676bca
 
TIA
-Mark


Stranded for all connections is recommended as it is much more flexible and easier to work with. As for pins, most here have used 18AWG solid copper wire which works out to 0.8 mm, but those 1 mm ones would work just fine.
 
I used old 7 pin tube bottoms for my adapter pictured above. I soldered the wires to the pins then filled the cut off  glass section with hot glue and shrink wrapped over that.
 
Jan 28, 2015 at 11:30 AM Post #8,948 of 13,434
Hi buldogge,
 
"Is the 6SN7 "worth" building adapters for, over using the "electrically identical" 6CG7???"
 
Don't bother with the 6CG7/6FQ7 tubes as power tubes - don't work well in the LDMKIII in my experience (I know u have a MKII).
 
The 6SN7 are well worth exploring, and better than any 6N6P/6H30 variants in the LD amps IMHO.
 
Good luck!
 
Jan 28, 2015 at 12:08 PM Post #8,949 of 13,434
Thanx for the replies guys...I'll stick with the 6SN7 adapter build plan.
 
TD...How did you cut the glass of the tubes...glass cutter?  dremel? carbide "saw"?  I would love to just use the throw-away OE Chinese tubes and make for easy floating connectors!
 
Any reasonable source for sockets in the US, or should I just order the gold ones from China for $7-10/pair??
 
TA
-Mark
 
Jan 28, 2015 at 1:56 PM Post #8,950 of 13,434
  Thanx for the replies guys...I'll stick with the 6SN7 adapter build plan.
 
TD...How did you cut the glass of the tubes...glass cutter?  dremel? carbide "saw"?  I would love to just use the throw-away OE Chinese tubes and make for easy floating connectors!
 
Any reasonable source for sockets in the US, or should I just order the gold ones from China for $7-10/pair??
 
TA
-Mark

i have been using these they are $30.00        http://www.ebay.com/itm/221065459067?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT      
 
Jan 28, 2015 at 2:08 PM Post #8,951 of 13,434
  So...Would you guys say the 6SN7, as a power tube, is worth dealing with buying or building adapters, or do you think that subbing the 6N6P gold grids for -IRs would be "sufficient" (I know it's subjective, obviously).
 
I'm leaning towards putting the money towards building a single adapter "plate" that handles the 6SN7 and C3G mods simultaneously.  (4) sets of sockets and (100) gold plated pins cost about 1/2 of what the pre-made adapters do...I'm sure I have some lexan/wire/standoffs/shrink tube/etc. lying around.
 
Thoughts???
 
-Mark

 
Hi Mark, 6SN7 make great power tubes if you are having high impedance headphones. They work well my 300 ohm HD800 but not with my 38 ohm HE-500. For lower impedance, 5687 are better. Even though I prefer the 6SN7 with an MKIVSE over an MKIII, they produce a large amount detail nevertheless and I would prioritize them over -IR tubes. I have been using two brown base tubes: Raytheon 6SN7WGT and Sylvania 6SN7WGT and I recommend the Sylvania tubes.
 
6SN7 as power tubes produce a very detailed sound with an excellent spatial perception. At the same time, they sound somewhat "harmonic" and gentle, without listening fatigue.
 
Jan 28, 2015 at 3:08 PM Post #8,952 of 13,434
  Thanx for the replies guys...I'll stick with the 6SN7 adapter build plan.
 
TD...How did you cut the glass of the tubes...glass cutter?  dremel? carbide "saw"?  I would love to just use the throw-away OE Chinese tubes and make for easy floating connectors!
 
Any reasonable source for sockets in the US, or should I just order the gold ones from China for $7-10/pair??
 
TA
-Mark

 
I wrapped the tube up tightly with a couple of wraps of electrical tape. Using a black cutting disk on your Dremel, you can go around the bottom of the tube slowly and gently allowing the glass to cool in between cuts. The base will crack if you cut too fast, hard or even look at it the wrong way so you might want want to prepare a few cheap tubes.
 
Cut all the inner wires away that attach the tube parts to the pins. I just carefully cut the pins off I won't be using on the inside with flush cutters, right next to the little glass support post.
 
The wires that go to the tube parts are spot welded to the pins, you will need to sand the pins a little and use a little flux to get them to take solder. Some bases will crack as well when you put heat to the pins so be aware of that as well. I had many a perfectly cut off tube have the base crack while soldering wires to the pins.
 
Once your wires are soldered on, fill the hole with hot glue and apply a piece of shrink tube so it just slightly comes down over the edge of the bottom of the tube.
 
Can be more effort than it is worth depending on how well the tube survives the cutting.
 
I have also used a thick little disk of Lexan and drilled holes in it with the drill press in a B7G pattern which is 7 pins arranged at 45 degrees spacing in a 9.53 mm (3/8th inch) diameter arc, really easy to make, just keep cutting the circle in half till you have 8 points on the circle. I used straightened paperclips as the pins with a loop on the top to attach a wire.
 
Good luck either way you go.
beerchug.gif

 
Jan 29, 2015 at 10:05 AM Post #8,953 of 13,434
While I would love to use the tube bottoms, for simplicity sake, I think drilling the tube pin pattern and using either the gold plated pins or solid copper wire as pins would be an easier endeavor.
 
18g wire is pretty much exact at 1.02 mm, 16g is 1.2mm of course...
 
Time to order the sockets from China, I guess.
 
On a side note...I rolled some 70's GE 6HQ5s in...really , really nice.  I was going to order some Yugo 6HM5s...but...I think I'll just leave those out now and concentrate on getting the C3Gs up and running.
 
TA
-Mark
 
Jan 30, 2015 at 12:20 PM Post #8,954 of 13,434
OK...On a different note.
 
Be it coincidence, happenstance, or my ears...I seem to have settled on GE tubes after trying various E92s and E95s.
 
I would say my current top (3) are:
 
6HQ5
6EW6
6DK6
 
I'm still waiting on some 6DT6As and 6CS6s, arriving today...as well as EF91 Mullard 8083s, coming from Germany.
 
Anyway, while I wait on the parts for my C3G/6SN7 adapter plate build...
 
Do you think it would be reasonable to assume a good starting point for a 6SN7 would be to find a GE variant?

Any suggestions, within that realm??
 
TA
-Mark
 
Jan 30, 2015 at 12:27 PM Post #8,955 of 13,434
GE 6SN7GT polarise people opinions, a few people used to rave about the silver side getter version however there is a much bigger group that rate them at the bottom of the US makes pile. You might be better looking at Tung Sol, Ken Rad, Natiion Union, RCA and Sylvania first.
 

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