[nalth]

Well, I have the same problem, my apartment gets very hot during the summer months so I have very strong doubts that the components of a LD2++ would make it.

However, generally speaking there is no rule that says tubes get hot, it just poor (internal) design that makes the LD2 run very, very hot.

 

[GotNoRice]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nalth /img/forum/go_quote.gif The reasoning that bothers me the most is the "I don't care, I'll just buy a new one" attitude, and because it's probably the way the seller reasons too, we are never going to see a change.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nalth /img/forum/go_quote.gif Damn, this is hard. Every time I decide on going with the LD2++ I come to think of all the design flaws that makes it run hot. Wish they would release a new LD2+++ soon, that would take care of my problems... provided that they are able to face their problems! Must say I'm tired of their attitude, seems that they always blame something else than poor design.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nalth /img/forum/go_quote.gif it just poor (internal) design that makes the LD2 run very, very hot.

Do we actually have anything to substantiate the claim that the LD2++ does in fact run “too” hot? All I see so far is “it runs hot, guess that’s bad”. If internal components are using the case as a heatsink, then I’d suspect that the case being hot is simply the device working as intended. If you were to feel the heatsink of a computer processor or even the ramsinks on a videocard inside a computer while those components were being utilized, you would find that those heatsinks are typically also hot to the touch.

Food for thought: I have a Yamaha M-2 Amplifier, which I use my little-dots as a preamp for. When the amp is on, it gets as hot if not hotter than my Little-Dot amps. The amp was made in 1979 and thus far is still working perfectly with no maintenance after all these years. Why should I believe it will be any different with the Little-Dot amps?

The Little-Dot amps have had the heat issue since their first LD2 model, how many people have had a unit fail specifically due to heat?

Still, I've considered using some of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835116012 For the price it can't hurt, and you can just stick them to the outside of the unit.

 

[feifan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GotNoRice /img/forum/go_quote.gif Food for thought: I have a Yamaha M-2 Amplifier, which I use my little-dots as a preamp for. When the amp is on, it gets as hot if not hotter than my Little-Dot amps. The amp was made in 1979 and thus far is still working perfectly with no maintenance after all these years. Why should I believe it will be any different with the Little-Dot amps?

I notice that the amp is hooked up to the LD2++ -- and the LD2+ seems to be sitting idle. Are you still using the 2+? I ask because I have both of these models and the dreaded arc 'n' pop has finally struck my 2+ right where others have said it would, the left power tube (4P1S). It ran beautifully for 6 months, then crackle-pop! It was a bright flash with a loud pop. I've taken it off my lineup and packed it in its foam, with a note to myself re the problem. It runs fine, though, with no apparent effect on sound. Fortunately, I had my TV cans (Sony MDR-XD400) on at the time. It seems to have survived the attack OK. Now I'm worried about the 2++. I realize that most feel the culprit in the 2+ is the design, but I can't help but wonder if high heat isn't a factor. BTW, if you're still using the 2+, I'd advise against it.

 

[nalth]

@GotNoRice: I know that computer components get hot, however, even these components have a much greater life expectancy if they run at a cooler temp. A few degrees could take 1000's of hours away. And a computer don't have to run too hot to touch, if properly designed and cooled.

 

[GotNoRice]

Quote:

Originally Posted by feifan /img/forum/go_quote.gif I notice that the amp is hooked up to the LD2++ -- and the LD2+ seems to be sitting idle. Are you still using the 2+? I ask because I have both of these models and the dreaded arc 'n' pop has finally struck my 2+ right where others have said it would, the left power tube (4P1S). It ran beautifully for 6 months, then crackle-pop! It was a bright flash with a loud pop. I've taken it off my lineup and packed it in its foam, with a note to myself re the problem. It runs fine, though, with no apparent effect on sound. Fortunately, I had my TV cans (Sony MDR-XD400) on at the time. It seems to have survived the attack OK. Now I'm worried about the 2++. I realize that most feel the culprit in the 2+ is the design, but I can't help but wonder if high heat isn't a factor. BTW, if you're still using the 2+, I'd advise against it.

I use both at the moment, I’ve spent the last few weeks going through all the different tubes I have now as well as comparing each amp against each other with the various tube configurations. I thought the ++ was going to be a slight improvement over the + and the ability to change the power tubes fairly easily seemed appealing. What I ended up with was a sound that was really more different than it was better or worse. Reading over the threads again it seems to be because the + uses directly heated triodes (pentodes acting as such) while the ++ uses indirectly heated triodes; they each have their own sonic signature. I prefer the ++ for listening to stuff like techno where its improved clarity and impactful bass really shine. For most of my music though, particularly anything with lots of vocals or with electric guitars, I prefer the +. I’ve actually been using the + almost exclusively lately, using Mullard CV4015 tubes instead of the stock CV131’s.

I had arcing begin on mine about a month and a half after I first got it, and again a month and a half after putting in the first set of replacement 4P1S tubes. While it was frustrating initially, I’ve learned to manage the problem in a few ways. One thing I noticed was that if I turned it on with the headphones plugged in, it would arc fairly regularly. If I turned it on while I had the headphones AND the stereo amp plugged in via the pre-outs, it would be a huge lightning show inside the tube. On the other hand, if nothing is plugged in, to the pre-outs or the headphone jack, there is very little or no arcing at all when the unit powers up. Most of the time, I just leave it on 24/7, and when I do have to turn it off, I just make sure to have nothing plugged in when I turn it back on. This method has worked well for me for the 9 months or so I’ve had the unit. It’s not ideal, but really in the end I just want what sounds best, and especially after doing the comparison with the ++ I have a lot of respect for the + and what it offers.

 

[feifan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GotNoRice /img/forum/go_quote.gif I use both at the moment, I’ve spent the last few weeks going through all the different tubes I have now as well as comparing each amp against each other with the various tube configurations. I thought the ++ was going to be a slight improvement over the + and the ability to change the power tubes fairly easily seemed appealing. What I ended up with was a sound that was really more different than it was better or worse. Reading over the threads again it seems to be because the + uses directly heated triodes (pentodes acting as such) while the ++ uses indirectly heated triodes; they each have their own sonic signature. I prefer the ++ for listening to stuff like techno where its improved clarity and impactful bass really shine. For most of my music though, particularly anything with lots of vocals or with electric guitars, I prefer the +. I’ve actually been using the + almost exclusively lately, using Mullard CV4015 tubes instead of the stock CV131’s. I had arcing begin on mine about a month and a half after I first got it, and again a month and a half after putting in the first set of replacement 4P1S tubes. While it was frustrating initially, I’ve learned to manage the problem in a few ways. One thing I noticed was that if I turned it on with the headphones plugged in, it would arc fairly regularly. If I turned it on while I had the headphones AND the stereo amp plugged in via the pre-outs, it would be a huge lightning show inside the tube. On the other hand, if nothing is plugged in, to the pre-outs or the headphone jack, there is very little or no arcing at all when the unit powers up. Most of the time, I just leave it on 24/7, and when I do have to turn it off, I just make sure to have nothing plugged in when I turn it back on. This method has worked well for me for the 9 months or so I’ve had the unit. It’s not ideal, but really in the end I just want what sounds best, and especially after doing the comparison with the ++ I have a lot of respect for the + and what it offers.

Wow! Thanks for the comprehensive and very useful reply. Up until yesterday, I had been using both, too, and for reasons similar to the ones you've mentioned. The steps you're taking to bypass the arcing problem are similar to ones others have tried, but your description is very thorough and seems worth trying. If I can screw up the courage, I may try it, too. Thanks again.