[number1sixerfan]

Just a note- I'd carefully consider whether you really need balanced. Balanced introduces the added expense and headaches involved in sourcing a matched quad of output tubes.

Going by feedback of other experienced users that owned and compared balanced vs single ended in the same Lampi DAC model, and according to Lukasz himself, only buy balanced if you absolutely need it, because it offers no sonic improvement over single-ended.

Really good point on the tube costs, and only thought about that recently. I don't really "need" balanced, just a preference I'm accustomed to. Typically it barely has a bearing on price and availability, compared to that being quite a bit different w/Lampi.

I actually heard back from the Poland store already. They do have quite a bit available, several being balanced, although right now it's not a hard requirement.

I think it's kept up to date FWIW, I've seen items I know were traded in by friends appear within days.
It's pretty slim pickings at the moment, but it tends to be cyclic, the Horizon release put a lot of Pacifics on the list. And I would guess it predominantly populated based on people using the upgrade program.
Most of the rest shows up intermittently, I'd expect a small uptick in content because of Poseiden has started shipping.

This is true. The list seems old by the date on the site, but each piece of gear I asked about was on it, and some in addition to that. I don't want to jinx it, but I found two that I'm intrigued by. Both a bit out of my price range lol (hate this hobby haha). Still following up with them, but I do also really like the idea of buying directly from them, with the recent upgrades, testing before sending out, etc.

 

[Polygonhell]

Really good point on the tube costs,

You can leave the front sockets empty (though I was told you should always run 2 pre tubes, though they don't have to match) if you run SE.
I swapped amps to the Viva in my main system, so I'm just running 2 242's in the back sockets at the moment, I have a pair of C3G's (in an adapters) in the back pre socket, and a standard 6N6P in the front socket, since all it's doing is drawing current and making sure the C3G's aren't getting too much voltage.

One other Caveat that I was aware of, but had never directly impacted me until last week, is the DHT Lampizators can be a bit picky about the input impedance of the amplifier.
I borrowed an AIC-10 from a friend, and it sounded rolled off and lethargic from the pacific, swapping it to my totalDAC it was a different Amp, I'd never heard anything like that before, I know output impedance varies with tube and the 242's are about the worst tube you can pick for output impedance, if I'd had the loan a little longer I'd have tried swapping output tubes to see if that addressed it but I didn't get the chance.

The AIC is the only amp I've had this issue with, and I've run it with WA33, DNA Stratus, Eddie Current Studio T, Viva Egoista 845, a 2A3 amp I designed and built, all were fine, and likely anything SS will be too. But it is something to be aware of.

 

[number1sixerfan]

You can leave the front sockets empty (though I was told you should always run 2 pre tubes, though they don't have to match) if you run SE.
I swapped amps to the Viva in my main system, so I'm just running 2 242's in the back sockets at the moment, I have a pair of C3G's (in an adapters) in the back pre socket, and a standard 6N6P in the front socket, since all it's doing is drawing current and making sure the C3G's aren't getting too much voltage.

One other Caveat that I was aware of, but had never directly impacted me until last week, is the DHT Lampizators can be a bit picky about the input impedance of the amplifier.
I borrowed an AIC-10 from a friend, and it sounded rolled off and lethargic from the pacific, swapping it to my totalDAC it was a different Amp, I'd never heard anything like that before, I know output impedance varies with tube and the 242's are about the worst tube you can pick for output impedance, if I'd had the loan a little longer I'd have tried swapping output tubes to see if that addressed it but I didn't get the chance.

The AIC is the only amp I've had this issue with, and I've run it with WA33, DNA Stratus, Eddie Current Studio T, Viva Egoista 845, a 2A3 amp I designed and built, all were fine, and likely anything SS will be too. But it is something to be aware of.

I saw the post in the AIC thread referencing as such. Sounds a bit on the rare side, but good to know. At least with all the tube options it should be easy to mitigate.

 

[Designsfx]

You can leave the front sockets empty (though I was told you should always run 2 pre tubes, though they don't have to match) if you run SE.

@Polygonhell
Which dac model are you referring to? I have a balanced Atlantic TRP3 and was told by Lampizator that it is the front two sockets that power the positive phase for SE operation- not the rear. I had asked this specifically as someone (different forum) had mentioned using the two rear sockets for SE.

@numbersixerfan
As others have mentioned here going balanced vs SE is a definite consideration to make prior to your purchase as the cost of tubes and sourcing quads can be frustrating. I chose to go balanced as my preamp/amp are a balanced design. I’ve run tube pairs in SE in my system and didn’t care for the sound- I’m not sure if that will affect you the same way but it is something to consider. I hope you’re able to find the dac you need!

 

[Polygonhell]

Which dac model are you referring to? I have a balanced Atlantic TRP3 and was told by Lampizator that it is the front two sockets that power the positive phase for SE operation- not the rear. I had asked this specifically as someone (different forum) had mentioned using the two rear sockets for SE.

Pacific, back 3 sockets are the SE out, 2 power tubes and a pre.

 

[Designsfx]

Pacific, back 3 sockets are the SE out, 2 power tubes and a pre.

Got it!

 

[Nimzerz]

Has anybody here had a good experience with Lampizator customer service?

I have a Golden Atlantic TRP that has an issue with (probably) the programming of the remote so that it switches into standby when pointing my phone camera at it, trying to adjust the volume using their own remote, or using other remotes in the room. It makes it nearly impossible to use in my setup because of it and after reaching out to them, persistently for over a month, they have not gotten back to me with any path forward to resolve my problem. My device is still under warranty and I even offered to ship it to them to get it looked at, but I barely get any response other than “we haven’t seen this happen in over 3000 DACs”. It almost feels as if they are blaming the problem on me, despite me sending them video of the problem. I’m not sure what to do at this point.

I don’t understand why there’s such hesitation to take a look at a DAC of this price point especially when I’ve already offered to ship it to them.

 

[Designsfx]

Has anybody here had a good experience with Lampizator customer service?

I have a Golden Atlantic TRP that has an issue with (probably) the programming of the remote so that it switches into standby when pointing my phone camera at it, trying to adjust the volume using their own remote, or using other remotes in the room. It makes it nearly impossible to use in my setup because of it and after reaching out to them, persistently for over a month, they have not gotten back to me with any path forward to resolve my problem. My device is still under warranty and I even offered to ship it to them to get it looked at, but I barely get any response other than “we haven’t seen this happen in over 3000 DACs”. It almost feels as if they are blaming the problem on me, despite me sending them video of the problem. I’m not sure what to do at this point.

I don’t understand why there’s such hesitation to take a look at a DAC of this price point especially when I’ve already offered to ship it to them.

Does your phone “blast” IR?

 

[Nimzerz]

Does your phone “blast” IR?

The IR gets triggered by the sensor used by the camera thats sets the focus point.

 

[Designsfx]

The IR gets triggered by the sensor used by the camera thats sets the focus point.

Ok- but that’s a different thing. The camera integration shouldn’t be affecting an IR sensor looking for a code unless I’m not understanding the method in which your camera approaches things. Are there any other remote capabilities in your phone (apps that use IR) that might be interfering? You said it switches into standby when pointing your phones camera at it- were you trying to send a command with the phone?

 

[Nimzerz]

Ok- but that’s a different thing. The camera integration shouldn’t be affecting an IR sensor looking for a code unless I’m not understanding the method in which your camera approaches things. Are there any other remote capabilities in your phone (apps that use IR) that might be interfering? You said it switches into standby when pointing your phones camera at it- were you trying to send a command with the phone?

I agree that it shouldn’t, hence the problem. No, just to take a photo during operation.

 

[Designsfx]

I’ve used IR mapping for real time projection mapping and have never come across an emitter that caused conflict with the operation of another IR receiving device. Do you know where the IR receiving sensor is located on the dac? If it’s accessible try putting a small piece of transparent tape over it (scotch tape) and try your camera again to see if you get the same effect. Your camera may pulse IR at a frequency that equates to what the receiver thinks is a command (which would be odd). The trick (if this is what’s happening) is to figure out a way that allows the receiving sensor to recognize your remote but not the flood/blast from the camera.

 

[Nimzerz]

I’ve used IR mapping for real time projection mapping and have never come across an emitter that caused conflict with the operation of another IR receiving device. Do you know where the IR receiving sensor is located on the dac? If it’s accessible try putting a small piece of transparent tape over it (scotch tape) and try your camera again to see if you get the same effect. Your camera may pulse IR at a frequency that equates to what the receiver thinks is a command (which would be odd). The trick (if this is what’s happening) is to figure out a way that allows the receiving sensor to recognize your remote but not the flood/blast from the camera.

I have tried that, covering it with my finger. Did not happen until I removed my finger. I actually captured this on video and sent it to them so they understand what I meant.

I’m assuming the programming for the remote on the device’s sensor somehow is corrupted or damaged/malfunctioning so that it is sensitive to the wrong frequencies/commands.

 

[Polygonhell]

Has anybody here had a good experience with Lampizator customer service?

I assume you’re talking Lampizator NA, they’re really responsive IME. A friend killed his DAC with a bad tube adapter twice, and the outside of shipping they covered the repairs both times.
They do try and schedule things so the DAC isn’t just sitting in Poland waiting for parts.

But I’m not sure they are going to be able to do anything with the issue you’re describing.
Shipping to Poland is expensive and they’re probably reticent to do it if they don’t think there will be a fix.

 

[Designsfx]

I have tried that, covering it with my finger. Did not happen until I removed my finger. I actually captured this on video and sent it to them so they understand what I meant.

I’m assuming the programming for the remote on the device’s sensor somehow is corrupted or damaged/malfunctioning so that it is sensitive to the wrong frequencies/commands.

I don’t think it’s necessarily defective but rather two devices suffering from interference of coded light. Without knowing what your phone camera is doing it will be a difficult (if not impossible) problem to solve. I wouldn’t expect the folks at Lampizator to know the answer either.
Where I was going with covering the sensor with tape was not to occlude the sensor from receiving but rather to see if the tape would/might cause interference with the cameras pulse via polarization.