So I realized I actually had the terminals I needed to make the resistor change in the DarkVoice, derp. Still need my Mouser order for the power supply changes but figured I'd go ahead and swap out the resistors.
Here is my solution to the hot resistor problem. Had to reroute the output wiring, the ground bus. Got rid of the aluminum-housed resistors, put some solder lug terminals on the standoffs instead, and used three 3.9K 12W NOS Mills non-inductive wirewounds in parallel. 1.3K cathode resistance with the 36W of rated power dissipation and they are no longer attached to the chassis by metal contact.
I have been running the amp for a little over an hour now. With the old setup, top plate was hitting around 40C and the interior of the chassis 48-50C.
Top plate still comes to around 36-37C, but floating my thermocouple on the interior of the chassis, air temperature only hits around 37-38C, that's a 12C improvement. I'll take it.
Sounds really good too with a National Union 6SN7GT and Western Electric 421A.
Here is my solution to the hot resistor problem. Had to reroute the output wiring, the ground bus. Got rid of the aluminum-housed resistors, put some solder lug terminals on the standoffs instead, and used three 3.9K 12W NOS Mills non-inductive wirewounds in parallel. 1.3K cathode resistance with the 36W of rated power dissipation and they are no longer attached to the chassis by metal contact.
I have been running the amp for a little over an hour now. With the old setup, top plate was hitting around 40C and the interior of the chassis 48-50C.
Top plate still comes to around 36-37C, but floating my thermocouple on the interior of the chassis, air temperature only hits around 37-38C, that's a 12C improvement. I'll take it.
Sounds really good too with a National Union 6SN7GT and Western Electric 421A.
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