KBear has a copper cable that's a bit better match. I have it, and it's a great cable. They also have a copper/silver one if you're going for treble for some reason. Both are much better cables than the KZ stuff, IMO.Will this new kbear silver cable good for KZ ZSX? it's pure silver cable and I read that silver cables increases highs/treble and make sound harsh? or should I go for KZ gold silver mixed cable?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001965474886.html?spm=2114.12010611.8148356.3.828f1640XCcDZV
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/330...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
The reason I don't like KZ gold silver cable is that it's very big fat and plug/jack is very large. but if this sounds better than silver cable then i can deal with this.
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Knowledge Zenith (KZ) impressions thread
- Thread starter bhazard
- Start date
IEMusic
Headphoneus Supremus
I vote for the BA10, as it is an all-BA IEM, for variety.As my first foray into the chi-fi world, I've been really loving the KZ ZAX. So much that I've already ordered better cables and xelastec tips to tweak them further. Now I'm eager to get my next set of chi-fis
Does anyone have some (KZ or not) suggestions at <USD$100 for IEMs that don't need an amp? Preference for some v-shape and presence to the bass.
No doubt, the timbral accuracy of the T2+ and BLONs, as single DDs, is much better. The technicalities of the BA10, such as soundstage, imaging, as especially microdetail retrieval are much better. Detail retrieval can easily match good mid-fi products, IMO. The BA10 is V-shaped, but the mids don’t really sound recessed to me, more like the BLONs than the ZS10Pro. The coarseness of the BAs in the BA10 sounds equivalent to the BAs in the ZS10Pro to me. I think they are on roughly the same level, but with different strengths. However, if one is big on technicalities, I think the BA10 is a couple levels above the rest.i remembered wanting to buy the Fearless because of the reviews, but luckily had the chance to audition it after a friend bought it.. because it turned out i didn't like it.
Now this makes me curious about the BA10.. how do you compare it to the T2+, ZS10 Pro, and the Blons? i'm sure there would be differences in sound signature, but do they sit on the same level of SQ?
Yeah, I was quite surprised at the similarities in the graph of the S8P vs the BA10, yet the tuning is so much more enjoyable on the BA10, and not at all grating and fatiguing....once again, FR graphs provide helpful information but they don't tell the whole story.
I can't sit still on this one.
My ASF is an absolute 8 out of 10. I really enjoy its low end and mid-centric presentation. After having it for several weeks the only drawbacks I can point out are the 1500hz peak and that the treble is a little too polite.
The 1500hz peak give the upper midrange a bold vividness that make the ASF sound alive.
I find the tone, timbre, density and weight of instruments and vocals to sound uncannily natural for an all-BA set.
I spent three uninterrupted hours this evening comparing the BA10, AS12 and ASF back to back. I am looking forward to modding the ASF because I believe they will be able to hold their own, even in the presence of the BA10 and AS12.
Rest assured, that's no easy task but given the ASF's inner hardware I'm confident that it will not disappoint.
I posted that “tongue in cheek”, and I’m glad you commented. I really do want to like the ASF, but just find it way too dark for my tastes, even with generous EQ. I will probably mess with it more when I have some time. I don’t know if I will try changing out the nozzle though. I want KZ to mix the newer technology of the ASF with the tuning of the BA10. I’m glad there are many that do like the ASF and ASX though, as variety is the spice of life.
The BA10 does have a grainy and “over-sharpened” sound at times, but I’m okay with it, b/c I like it for what it is, flaws and all.BA bass of BA10 is one of the best, the rest is OK and competent, but the older drivers are noticeably grainy (I am personally OK with it, but some can call it "less refined").
Then, in my opinion, ASF could be BA10+, if not for those nozzle designs; while ASX be AS16+ (they are to me with a wide nozzle, they get all the listening time now, no rotation among KZ, only SFR MT300 with its unique treble and least dynamic bass get some).
I do need to mess with my ASF.
I suggest the BA10, as I find it very competent and in fact ideal for metal. It has the BA speed to keep up, powerful, punchy bass that doesn‘t bleed or smear, and some of the best imaging and soundstage for an IEM <$100. My ZS10Pro and ZSX can’t keep up for fast double bass drum. Even the grainy and metallic sound of the BAs is appropriate for metal, IMHO,Hi all, just a hint of which KZ should I get.
My preferences: large soundstage,tight bass, no bass cannons, no midbass bleeding, clarity, detailed highs, crispy mids (snare must sound like a snare!)
My iems: Hifiman re 600: lacks bass ,too midcentric, no sparkling highs.
Soundmagic ER80: very good for my taste, lacks a little definition on subbass,mids could be slightly crispier. Highs almost ok, just a little artificial. Soundstage too narrow.
TWS : Cambridge Audio Melomania 1: so far my favourite tuning: wide soundstage, excellent crispy mids, good clarity and crispy highs without being harsh.
Music: hard rock, Heavy Metal, classic rock, thrash metal. I need tight bass for double bassdrum kicks.
I read a lot of post, I think I should go for ks10pro or ksa12.
Any help much appreciated, thanks!
The ZS6 I fixed up last night now has less bass in the broken and now fixed side. The BA drivers were the only ones that broke off though, so I don't know why the DD isn't performing as well. Does anybody know why this is happening?
Wdym? Did you resolder BAs? Check if you connected the cable like R-R and L-L and not vice versa.
wladymeer
New Head-Fier
Anyone managed to fix APT-X BT module?
I have a module that's charging correctly, but it can't be turned on - it seems like play button isn't responding at all.
I have a module that's charging correctly, but it can't be turned on - it seems like play button isn't responding at all.
ChristianM
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2014
- Posts
- 362
- Likes
- 228
Thanks for reply,KBear has a copper cable that's a bit better match. I have it, and it's a great cable. They also have a copper/silver one if you're going for treble for some reason. Both are much better cables than the KZ stuff, IMO.
are you referring this cable?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000938874310.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.31.635d5de6o7uOb7
That looks like it. I have the balanced version.Thanks for reply,
are you referring this cable?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000938874310.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.31.635d5de6o7uOb7
n0de5
New Head-Fier
I did resolder the BAs but it appears that the 10mm DD is not working. I did switch the cable's polarity and made it sound worse so I switched it back to normal. Maybe my right side was just a dud. Oh well.Wdym? Did you resolder BAs? Check if you connected the cable like R-R and L-L and not vice versa.
I'm going to take out the insides of a ZSN Pro and put them into the ZS6 shell. I'm going to be keeping the smaller 6mm DD driver from the ZS6 since that seems to be working.
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i have got ba10 for a year, it sounds odds, i dont like it, for me it is just a faulty product.
and i have dq6 as well, it sounds ok, but i like 1dd z1 sound more, no idea why my preference have much difference with others.
and i have dq6 as well, it sounds ok, but i like 1dd z1 sound more, no idea why my preference have much difference with others.
You probably like the single driver configuration much better.i have got ba10 for a year, it sounds odds, i dont like it, for me it is just a faulty product.
and i have dq6 as well, it sounds ok, but i like 1dd z1 sound more, no idea why my preference have much difference with others.
Tonymac136
500+ Head-Fier
i have got ba10 for a year, it sounds odds, i dont like it, for me it is just a faulty product.
and i have dq6 as well, it sounds ok, but i like 1dd z1 sound more, no idea why my preference have much difference with others.
People tend not to compare DQ6 with Z1 because the Z1 is a TWS set. Personally I'm with you on preferring the Z1, but it's close for me.
I’m glad to see that the DQ6 fits you well. I too was worried about the knob that sticks out. Might have to get them now. Like I need another IEM!
My DQ6 arrived today So far really liking them. Just as @Aparker2005 said, easily one of the best fitting KZs I've tried. Included photos of ZS5, ZSN and DQ6 side by side for reference. I was worried the part that sticks out on DQ6 would be uncomfortable but it's actually the opposite it really settles it in the ear and sits flush without sticking out. Sound so far is very good and balanced but I'll let them burn in a little before I really judge them.
voicemaster
Headphoneus Supremus
What makes the knob rarely an issue for DQ6 is because the body is small so you can still wiggle it around in an average size ears. Unlike ASF/ASX where the body is big and really doesn't allow for any wiggle at all.I’m glad to see that the DQ6 fits you well. I too was worried about the knob that sticks out. Might have to get them now. Like I need another IEM!
I did resolder the BAs but it appears that the 10mm DD is not working. I did switch the cable's polarity and made it sound worse so I switched it back to normal. Maybe my right side was just a dud. Oh well.
I'm going to take out the insides of a ZSN Pro and put them into the ZS6 shell. I'm going to be keeping the smaller 6mm DD driver from the ZS6 since that seems to be working.
I don't think it's right to give up this early. Do you have a multimeter? You need to check if the driver is completely done, which I wouldn't believe is the case. Maybe someone in here could help you out.
If you don't, I believe you can check if it's working by using Cr2032 battery, they usually have these in PC motherboards. I have found a picture on google images coming from some Russian website I guess. If it's working then it should produce a high-pitched sound.
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n0de5
New Head-Fier
I don't have a multimeter sadly. Do you know if this works without a Cr2032 battery? I believe they are 3.5v so I can find another voltage source if that works.
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Cr2032's are 3.0v. You can probably use any AAA battery.I don't have a multimeter sadly. Do you know if this works without a Cr2032 battery? I believe they are 3.5v so I can find another voltage source is that works.
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