Knowledge Zenith (KZ) impressions thread
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Slater

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KZ cables are fine, y'all are just fussy.

They are significantly better than the stock cables that came with my QDC neptune. Imagine my surprise when I wanted to use the "better" QDC cable on my ZSX and the sound ended up worse!
The pure copper ZSN cable is still a steal for $3. It’s resistance is the same or lower than many fancy 8 and 16 core upgrade cables.
 
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Need help with KZ ZS10 connection + Related

H. I hope everyone is doing well in these crazy times. Please allow me to first apologise for the length of this post - I wanted to be sure that I didn’t miss anything. Anyway, I have a couple of questions and need your expertise, as I’m kinda new to the topic of IEMs, specifically “budget” ones. I have headphones - Sennheiser 650, 800\, AKGs etc. Long story short, regarding IEMs, I was introduced to them by way of “Budget“ brands: KZ, TFZ, etc. Since then I’ve owned a few (listed below if it makes a difference).

Personally, I really like the sound of the KZ ZS10 Pro. I‘ve had 3 of them: the black back with shiny front, followed by the glare yellow, and as I have on now, the glare blue. It’s not that I needed to buy 3 of them. The problem is that every version has a significant problem - the QDC type connector will fail. for Some reason, all of them also fail on the right one - I don’t understand why. I’ve been very careful, I’ve used stick cables as well as upgrades like the KB Ear 16-core that I’m using now.

I’ve paid close attention - especially with the glare yellow/blue -to see what’s wrong, what I could be doing wrong, and It seems that I’m doing the right thing, but regardless, they start to develop this problem, for reasons I don’t understand. I would carefully attach the cable, and I wouldn’t swap it out many times. But as I mentioned, the same problem happens, and as of posting this, it’s beginning to happen with the glare blues with lhe kbear cable (qdc).

Obviously I’m not an expert, but I can say that every One I’ve had, at first there was no problem. Then maybe on a month or so, the right side will just come off the connector. So I would put it back on. Then it will happen again, and I’d say by 2+ months, they cannot be reattached.

Just by looking, the “poles” seem to become very wide. Again I dunno why, and I dunno why it happens only to the right one - all three units, purchased at different times, have *identical* problems.

I understand that this is a “budget/low cos” IEM, and my expectations follow that, however this problem is so specific, that I wonder if anyone has had this happen. Due to the nature of my job and general way the world is now, I haven’t done a deep dive on this. I also want to say that i just really like the sound of the KZ ZS10 Pros.

I should have posted this earlier however that being said, I’ve wondered if this issue can’t be easily solved, my thoughts are:
1. Can I get the same sound with a different (better) connector? I heard that many like KZ and CCA are similar - is this true?

2. Could I in some way, modify it (like example, same IEMs,but with MMCX connector. I have some experience with electronics, but not a while lot. .

3. it help you guys if I took pictures of the connectors? Just think of the connection on the earphone side and amazing the holes are 2-3 times large

i have other questions in relating to true custom IEMs, but i rather just stay focused here, as those are the opposite of “Budget“.

In closing, thanks for reading this - as with any help, anything that you think can educate me worh this would be greatly appreciated.

regards
Trevor

PS: Just realised that I had this iissue with the BLON... even the right side.

i will put this in my profile but as for now I’ll just list some of the IEMs I have

IEM and related list of Aug 18, 2020

KZ ZSN, ZS10 Pro (x 3!), ZST Pro, ZST Pro X, ZS6
5.0 Bluetooth Wireless (Type C and Type B)

TRN V90, Wireless BT 4.1 Cable

TFZ: No. 3, S2 Pro

Tin Hifi: T2, T2 Plus

CCA CA16

SoundPeats Dudios (Zeus) + Later 5.0 TWS

Cables by ****, KB ear, Nicehk etc (8/16 core, 2-pins, QDC, etc)

tips: Spinfits, JVC Spiral Dots, Comply foam, Kz foam, KZ Vortex
 
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post-15809382
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Slater

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Need help with KZ ZS10 connection + Related

H. I hope everyone is doing well in these crazy times. Please allow me to first apologise for the length of this post - I wanted to be sure that I didn’t miss anything. Anyway, I have a couple of questions and need your expertise, as I’m kinda new to the topic of IEMs, specifically “budget” ones. I have headphones - Sennheiser 650, 800\, AKGs etc. Long story short, regarding IEMs, I was introduced to them by way of “Budget“ brands: KZ, TFZ, etc. Since then I’ve owned a few (listed below if it makes a difference).

Personally, I really like the sound of the KZ ZS10 Pro. I‘ve had 3 of them: the black back with shiny front, followed by the glare yellow, and as I have on now, the glare blue. It’s not that I needed to buy 3 of them. The problem is that every version has a significant problem - the QDC type connector will fail. for Some reason, all of them also fail on the right one - I don’t understand why. I’ve been very careful, I’ve used stick cables as well as upgrades like the KB Ear 16-core that I’m using now.

I’ve paid close attention - especially with the glare yellow/blue -to see what’s wrong, what I could be doing wrong, and It seems that I’m doing the right thing, but regardless, they start to develop this problem, for reasons I don’t understand. I would carefully attach the cable, and I wouldn’t swap it out many times. But as I mentioned, the same problem happens, and as of posting this, it’s beginning to happen with the glare blues with lhe kbear cable (qdc).

Obviously I’m not an expert, but I can say that every One I’ve had, at first there was no problem. Then maybe on a month or so, the right side will just come off the connector. So I would put it back on. Then it will happen again, and I’d say by 2+ months, they cannot be reattached.

Just by looking, the “poles” seem to become very wide. Again I dunno why, and I dunno why it happens only to the right one - all three units, purchased at different times, have *identical* problems.

I understand that this is a “budget/low cos” IEM, and my expectations follow that, however this problem is so specific, that I wonder if anyone has had this happen. Due to the nature of my job and general way the world is now, I haven’t done a deep dive on this. I also want to say that i just really like the sound of the KZ ZS10 Pros.

I should have posted this earlier however that being said, I’ve wondered if this issue can’t be easily solved, my thoughts are:
1. Can I get the same sound with a different (better) connector? I heard that many like KZ and CCA are similar - is this true?

2. Could I in some way, modify it (like example, same IEMs,but with MMCX connector. I have some experience with electronics, but not a while lot. .

3. it help you guys if I took pictures of the connectors? Just think of the connection on the earphone side and amazing the holes are 2-3 times large

i have other questions in relating to true custom IEMs, but i rather just stay focused here, as those are the opposite of “Budget“.

In closing, thanks for reading this - as with any help, anything that you think can educate me worh this would be greatly appreciated.

regards
Trevor

PS: Just realised that I had this iissue with the BLON... even the right side.
I would say that your KZs are suffering from the 'crumbling Paragraph C' socket issue a few people have reported. But you say the same thing is happening to your Blons too. So that tells me the problem is something else. Maybe something you're doing?

Maybe you could post a picture and it would perhaps help determine what the problem could be caused by?
 
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khighly

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Need help with KZ ZS10 connection + Related

H. I hope everyone is doing well in these crazy times. Please allow me to first apologise for the length of this post - I wanted to be sure that I didn’t miss anything. Anyway, I have a couple of questions and need your expertise, as I’m kinda new to the topic of IEMs, specifically “budget” ones. I have headphones - Sennheiser 650, 800\, AKGs etc. Long story short, regarding IEMs, I was introduced to them by way of “Budget“ brands: KZ, TFZ, etc. Since then I’ve owned a few (listed below if it makes a difference).

Personally, I really like the sound of the KZ ZS10 Pro. I‘ve had 3 of them: the black back with shiny front, followed by the glare yellow, and as I have on now, the glare blue. It’s not that I needed to buy 3 of them. The problem is that every version has a significant problem - the QDC type connector will fail. for Some reason, all of them also fail on the right one - I don’t understand why. I’ve been very careful, I’ve used stick cables as well as upgrades like the KB Ear 16-core that I’m using now.

I’ve paid close attention - especially with the glare yellow/blue -to see what’s wrong, what I could be doing wrong, and It seems that I’m doing the right thing, but regardless, they start to develop this problem, for reasons I don’t understand. I would carefully attach the cable, and I wouldn’t swap it out many times. But as I mentioned, the same problem happens, and as of posting this, it’s beginning to happen with the glare blues with lhe kbear cable (qdc).

Obviously I’m not an expert, but I can say that every One I’ve had, at first there was no problem. Then maybe on a month or so, the right side will just come off the connector. So I would put it back on. Then it will happen again, and I’d say by 2+ months, they cannot be reattached.

Just by looking, the “poles” seem to become very wide. Again I dunno why, and I dunno why it happens only to the right one - all three units, purchased at different times, have *identical* problems.

I understand that this is a “budget/low cos” IEM, and my expectations follow that, however this problem is so specific, that I wonder if anyone has had this happen. Due to the nature of my job and general way the world is now, I haven’t done a deep dive on this. I also want to say that i just really like the sound of the KZ ZS10 Pros.

I should have posted this earlier however that being said, I’ve wondered if this issue can’t be easily solved, my thoughts are:
1. Can I get the same sound with a different (better) connector? I heard that many like KZ and CCA are similar - is this true?

2. Could I in some way, modify it (like example, same IEMs,but with MMCX connector. I have some experience with electronics, but not a while lot. .

3. it help you guys if I took pictures of the connectors? Just think of the connection on the earphone side and amazing the holes are 2-3 times large

i have other questions in relating to true custom IEMs, but i rather just stay focused here, as those are the opposite of “Budget“.

In closing, thanks for reading this - as with any help, anything that you think can educate me worh this would be greatly appreciated.

regards
Trevor

PS: Just realised that I had this iissue with the BLON... even the right side.

i will put this in my profile but as for now I’ll just list some of the IEMs I have

IEM and related list of Aug 18, 2020

KZ ZSN, ZS10 Pro (x 3!), ZST Pro, ZST Pro X, ZS6
5.0 Bluetooth Wireless (Type C and Type B)

TRN V90, Wireless BT 4.1 Cable

TFZ: No. 3, S2 Pro

Tin Hifi: T2, T2 Plus

CCA CA16

SoundPeats Dudios (Zeus) + Later 5.0 TWS

Cables by ****, KB ear, Nicehk etc (8/16 core, 2-pins, QDC, etc)

tips: Spinfits, JVC Spiral Dots, Comply foam, Kz foam, KZ Vortex
Mine is also the right side that has essentially 'shattered'. I much prefer the recessed connector.
 
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Slater

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Mine is also the right side that has essentially 'shattered'. I much prefer the recessed connector.
I agree, the recessed connector (A and B) worked perfectly fine for years.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. That's what I always say!

Knock on wood though, I've never had any problems with any of my Paragraph C sockets falling apart.
 
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Personally, I really like the sound of the KZ ZS10 Pro. I‘ve had 3 of them: the black back with shiny front, followed by the glare yellow, and as I have on now, the glare blue. It’s not that I needed to buy 3 of them. The problem is that every version has a significant problem - the QDC type connector will fail. for Some reason, all of them also fail on the right one - I don’t understand why. I’ve been very careful, I’ve used stick cables as well as upgrades like the KB Ear 16-core that I’m using now.
Seems to be a similar issue that I had with my KZ AS10's intermittent right connector recently. The ZS10's socket/plug & crossover PCB look similar to AS10 as well. The thing I found out that works with my AS10 is; the plug's plastic lip must sink into AS10's body for reliable connection. I can only speculate that the socket's solder joint requires the support of the plug lips. It's a real PITA but, imho, it's always work-in-progress with these cheaper IEMs.
 
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courierdriver

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I agree, the recessed connector (A and B) worked perfectly fine for years.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. That's what I always say!

Knock on wood though, I've never had any problems with any of my Paragraph C sockets falling apart.
Yeah, my ZS10 PRO connector also has not shattered, but recently I experienced the same problem as the dude who said his wire was falling out of his iem. I've only swapped cables 3 times since I owned my current set. Thing is, even if you can find a balanced 2.5mm upgrade cable (like I always use), chances are that even if you can find with the Paragraph C/ QDC connectors, it's usually only in .78mm, not the .75mm that KZ and CCA use. While the .78mm will work, I think that the slightly larger pins may stretch out the connectors on the iems themselves a bit. If it happens again, I will try to gently splay the pins on my Tripowin Zonie balanced cable, to achieve a more secure connection. Hopefully that will solve the problem. Again, I haven't had the problem of the actual connector on the iem breaking or shattering.
 
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I've never had this happen. I have broke a pin into my kz zsr using a non standard cable without the recessed part or the mould to protect it. I have also had a few that have loosened up a bit so that they fall off a bit too easily. This can be remedied by carefully bending the pins on cable outwards, with a small screwdriver. And I mean CAREFULLY.

Is sweat disentegrating the plastic on the socket housing or something? I love my glare blue zs10 pros.
 
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Slater

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I've never had this happen. I have broke a pin into my kz zsr using a non standard cable without the recessed part or the mould to protect it. I have also had a few that have loosened up a bit so that they fall off a bit too easily. This can be remedied by carefully bending the pins on cable outwards, with a small screwdriver. And I mean CAREFULLY.

Is sweat disentegrating the plastic on the socket housing or something? I love my glare blue zs10 pros.
I don’t know what the cause is, but it seems like almost every day someone else is posting about the paragraph C sockets falling apart :frowning2:
 
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raccoon city

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I don’t know what the cause is, but it seems like almost every day someone else is posting about the paragraph C sockets falling apart :frowning2:
I'll have to be extra careful with my KZ ZSX and paragraph C socket.
 
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I'll have to be extra careful with my KZ ZSX and paragraph C socket.
Yeah I’m paranoid now. I ordered a few spare QDC sockets in case I ever need to do a repair.
 
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Does the ZSN PRO/X suffer the same issue? They use C cables right?
No one has ever really sat down and researched the models it affects to see if there’s a pattern.

I mean, since KZ uses the exact same paragraph C socket for a whole bunch of earphones, I don’t see why it would crumble apart on 1 model but not others. So my gut is that it is the specific plastic they are using on ALL of the paragraph C sockets.

Either that, or the common themes might be the people who are using 3rd party cables. Perhaps the 3rd party cables are putting extra stress on the paragraph C sockets that the stock cable does not.

Or, again it might be people using 3rd party cables, but only 0.78mm cables. Maybe that tiny extra bit of make 2-pin thickness spreads out the 0.75mm female sockets juuuuust enough that they develop stress fractures. And those stress fractures get bigger in time, developing into full blown cracks and chunks of plastic eventually falling off.

Again, we just don’t know. It’s gone from a few isolated and anecdotal cases to more and more complaints about it. Something is definitely going on though, it just may be something the owners are doing and NOT a KZ QC issue.

Maybe as we collect more data from those affected, we can piece together the puzzle.
 
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The ZS3's fit my ears too well. Any silicone tip that I tried that would fit me normally/comfortably with other IEMs would get stuck in my ear canal when I'd go to take them off. It required digging out the tip from my ear canal usually. No bueno. The nozzle on the ZS3 didn't have a lip and it was kind of a shame. I guess I could have used foams but I've always preferred silicone.
I've had this same issue. However, it was pretty simple to fix it. I just needed to mix some epoxy and with a toothpick I made a circle around the nozzle and let it dry out for 10 minutes sitting on a piece of blutack. I heard you can use heat-shrink too but epoxy seems more durable for a permanent fix.



Now I can fit all my tips and they lock onto the nozzle rather secure. Btw, I got a Moondrop SSR and it has the same smooth nozzle which leads to this same issue but I'm not willing to do this mod for a pricier model, I just sold it lol.
 
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I'm a bit confused about something. Was the zs10 pro ever revised?
20200819_071544.jpg20200819_071511.jpg
The first image shows the driver configuration for the ZS10 pro. The second is for the CCA C10. If I remember correctly, when the ZS10 pro was released, the driver placement in the shell was basically the same as that of the C10 in the 2nd picture with the only difference being that for the ZS10 pro, both 30095 BAs were placed in the nozzle and both 50060 BAs further back in, while the C10 had a 30095 + 50060 BA config in the nozzle and same set up further back in. I just noticed this ZS10 pro configuration (1st picture) in the product images with only one 30095 BA in the nozzle and the other much further back in the shell and was surprised. Is this new or has it been this way for a while now or has it always been this way and I'm just nuts.
 
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