[Marximus]

I received the HRT MusicStreamer II yesterday, and I've noticed pops coming through the audio.  I didn't have this problem with my uDAC.  Is it something to do with the asynchronous feature?  Do I need a different USB cable (I used the spare one from my Fiio E9 amp)?  I'm kind of green regarding DACs.  Any help would be appreciated.

 

[yossi126]

What music player are you using? did you try to lower the the buffer?

 

[Dublo7]

Are you using this on a Mac or PC?

 

[Marximus]

I'm running the latest version of iTunes from my HP Pavilion desktop.  The computer's fairly new (quad core processor, 6 gigs of RAM).  Not sure what the buffer is or how to lower it.  There are six different lights that can show up on the back of the MS, and the one that indicates 44k 1 is lit up (other options are 32k, 48k, 88k 2, 96k, and MUTE).

 

[Marximus]

I went into settings and changed it from 44k 1 to 48k.  This appears to have solved the problem.  Is that the buffer?

 

[Yoga Flame]

That's the sampling rate. CD quality music is at 44.1 kHz and 16 bits. Your OS (I assume it's Windows) can resample the audio signal to a different rate before sending it to the DAC. That's probably what's happening now after you changed the settings to 48k.
 
The buffer is a separate thing. It's used by the audio driver to temporarily store the audio data before sending it out to the DAC. The music player software may also have its own buffer, though I think in iTunes there isn't any user setting to change that (there is a streaming buffer setting, but that's different).
 
Did you have to install a special driver for the HRT Streamer?

 

[Marximus]

The MS II software installed itself immediately upon connection to the computer.  I do have Windows.  Will changing the sampling rate screw with my ability to rip CDs?

 

[Yoga Flame]

No, the playback sampling rate will not affect CD ripping.
 
Maybe you could edit the thread title to say HRT MusicStreamer II+ in it so other users will notice it more easily. I have no experience with this DAC and it sounds like it has its own special drivers.

 

[Marximus]

Will do.  But it's only the MS II, not the MS II+; that one is $200 more.

 

[Marximus]

During a brief comparison between it and the uDAC (my first DAC, which is now sold), I was hard-pressed to hear a difference between the two.  The MS II *maybe* made things a bit tighter, but I can't say for sure.

 

[Marximus]

Scratch that.  Still getting popping.

 

[upstateguy]

Quote:

I'm running the latest version of iTunes from my HP Pavilion desktop.  The computer's fairly new (quad core processor, 6 gigs of RAM).  Not sure what the buffer is or how to lower it.  There are six different lights that can show up on the back of the MS, and the one that indicates 44k 1 is lit up (other options are 32k, 48k, 88k 2, 96k, and MUTE).

I'd recommend that you dump itunes and get foobar with asio4all or WASAPI if you're using W7.
 
Also not sure what you mean by popping?  If you're referring to buffering, raise the buffer.
 
USG

 

[Marximus]

I've got everything running through iTunes:  music, apps, etc.  It'd be a bear to transfer everything over.  Not sure what you mean by buffer.  It sounds like clicks and pops coming through my headphones, a problem I didn't have with my uDAC.  How do you raise the buffer?

 

[upstateguy]

Quote:

I've got everything running through iTunes:  music, apps, etc.  It'd be a bear to transfer everything over.  Not sure what you mean by buffer.  It sounds like clicks and pops coming through my headphones, a problem I didn't have with my uDAC.  How do you raise the buffer?

I don't use itunes, or more aptly stated, I refuse to use itunes.....

    So I don't have a clue how to raise the buffer. 

 
On the other hand, you could easily show foobar where your music library is ......  so there wouldn't be anything to transfer over.
 

 
When you say apps, do you mean your source is an ipod or is your music in a folder on your HD?  Btw, what else do you need itunes for?
 
USG

 

[The Monkey]

OP, are you running the HRT of a separate powered USB hub or running out of a USB port on your PC?  If the latter, try using a powered USB hub instead; that should do the trick.  This is a known issue.