It's Done! Power Cord Shoot-Out-- 22 Power Cords Reviewed!
Sep 16, 2010 at 10:59 PM Post #151 of 204
The last weekend, I tested few powercords again ...
The result ... I buyed a new powercord again ... :wink:
 
When you have a good system with a good transparency, powercord, interconnect, speaker cables, digital cable matter ...
 
Nov 18, 2010 at 5:47 PM Post #152 of 204
I just ordered Decware's DHC1 power cable today. It is a 10 AWG silver plated copper design, from an incredible American hand-made only company, and I'm pretty excited to try it out! Anybody happen to have any impressions of this cable, or one of a similar design?
 
-Daniel
 
Nov 19, 2010 at 11:46 AM Post #153 of 204


Quote:
I just ordered Decware's DHC1 power cable today. It is a 10 AWG silver plated copper design, from an incredible American hand-made only company, and I'm pretty excited to try it out! Anybody happen to have any impressions of this cable, or one of a similar design?
 
-Daniel


[size=larger][size=larger]MODEL DHC-1[/size][/size]
[size=10pt]10 AWG Multi Conductor Silver Plated Copper. Teflon jacketed with a 3 wire braid.  
5 foot length.[/size]
[size=10pt]  [/size]
 
Did you hear how these cords sound from some place?  Looks to be three 10 AWG teflon-coated silver-plated copper cable in tri-wire braid.  For fun, I recommend you go to your local surplus electric store and pick up some "military spec" 10 AWG teflon silver-plated copper wire for cents/foot and braid them to compare..
 
Power applications are one place where I actually don't mind silver-plated teflon wire, and I have made DIY cords using various AWG ones; different AC plugs can be used to tune the flavor a little bit..
 
Nov 19, 2010 at 1:06 PM Post #154 of 204
I have a quick question regrading power cables, i have a stock cable thin rubbishy thing which is 13amp 250v , the spec on the unit it powers is 240v 50hz\60hz 1A , does the 1A stand for 1 amp? , so it is ok to replace the 13amp power cord with a 3amp 1 since the unit actually only requires 1amp. It's a 300watt amp so i doubt it draws in thousands of watts of power.
 
Nov 20, 2010 at 8:02 PM Post #155 of 204
Well I'm not into DIY, AT ALL! Just wanted to hear people's opinions on the type of sonic benefits from this type of cable. I bought from Decware because they have yet to let me down with their products, and usually have an incredible bang-for-your-buck factor. So....what type of sonic traits does this type of cable offer. I plan on using it with my Ref 9, feeding a Concerto/LCD2.
 
-Daniel

 
Quote:
Quote:
I just ordered Decware's DHC1 power cable today. It is a 10 AWG silver plated copper design, from an incredible American hand-made only company, and I'm pretty excited to try it out! Anybody happen to have any impressions of this cable, or one of a similar design?
 
-Daniel


[size=larger][size=larger]MODEL DHC-1[/size][/size]
[size=10pt]10 AWG Multi Conductor Silver Plated Copper. Teflon jacketed with a 3 wire braid.  
5 foot length.[/size]
[size=10pt]  [/size]
 
Did you hear how these cords sound from some place?  Looks to be three 10 AWG teflon-coated silver-plated copper cable in tri-wire braid.  For fun, I recommend you go to your local surplus electric store and pick up some "military spec" 10 AWG teflon silver-plated copper wire for cents/foot and braid them to compare..
 
Power applications are one place where I actually don't mind silver-plated teflon wire, and I have made DIY cords using various AWG ones; different AC plugs can be used to tune the flavor a little bit..



 
Nov 20, 2010 at 8:22 PM Post #156 of 204
What I notice from very thick power cables is a more stable soundstage and ambiance, blacker background, and transients don't smear as much. Only tried plain copper though.
 
Nov 24, 2010 at 8:13 AM Post #158 of 204
This thread conviced me to give a new power cord a go, i brought the DSP 1.0 Dual Screened power cable - Figure 8  from from www.markgrantcables.co.uk , for my edifier S730 system , having the extra shielding cleaned up the sound like i expected the bookshelf speakers have a slightly cleaner sound, the biggest difference is with the sub it gained a whole new sound, about 30% more powerful and with a alot more clairty to the bass sound now every single bass note is delivered crystal clear , with quicker responce , and about 30% more power (thump). The cable was well worth the £50.
 
Nov 25, 2010 at 9:08 AM Post #159 of 204


Quote:
I have a quick question regrading power cables, i have a stock cable thin rubbishy thing which is 13amp 250v , the spec on the unit it powers is 240v 50hz\60hz 1A , does the 1A stand for 1 amp? , so it is ok to replace the 13amp power cord with a 3amp 1 since the unit actually only requires 1amp. It's a 300watt amp so i doubt it draws in thousands of watts of power.



If the unit only requires 1 amp then a 3 amp cable will be fine.
 
It is quite funny that you describe the stock cable as a "thin rubbishy thing".
 
There won't be any advantage in using a voodoo power cable over the stock cable which you are disparaging.
 
It is just auto-suggestion. You have prepared yourself for being impressed by the, no doubt more expensive, replacement I see by already describing your perfectly good standard cable as "rubbishy".
 
You can put in the more expensive replacement and no doubt you will believe that the sound quality has improved in some way. But it hasn't. You will have been conned. It is true that the sound quality will appear to have been improved as long as you believe it has been :) Unfortunately that belief just wears off after a while unless you keep refreshing it by reading more articles etc. promoting voodoo in cables.
 
If I were you I would use the stock cable which will work just as well as the replacement.
 
Nov 25, 2010 at 9:44 AM Post #160 of 204


Quote:
Quote:
I have a quick question regrading power cables, i have a stock cable thin rubbishy thing which is 13amp 250v , the spec on the unit it powers is 240v 50hz\60hz 1A , does the 1A stand for 1 amp? , so it is ok to replace the 13amp power cord with a 3amp 1 since the unit actually only requires 1amp. It's a 300watt amp so i doubt it draws in thousands of watts of power.



If the unit only requires 1 amp then a 3 amp cable will be fine.
 
It is quite funny that you describe the stock cable as a "thin rubbishy thing".
 
There won't be any advantage in using a voodoo power cable over the stock cable which you are disparaging.
 
It is just auto-suggestion. You have prepared yourself for being impressed by the, no doubt more expensive, replacement I see by already describing your perfectly good standard cable as "rubbishy".
 
You can put in the more expensive replacement and no doubt you will believe that the sound quality has improved in some way. But it hasn't. You will have been conned. It is true that the sound quality will appear to have been improved as long as you believe it has been :) Unfortunately that belief just wears off after a while unless you keep refreshing it by reading more articles etc. promoting voodoo in cables.
 
If I were you I would use the stock cable which will work just as well as the replacement.



I Worked it out in the end and brought the custom power cable, it made quite a huge difference actually more than i was expecting, i wasn't conned and was told i could even return the cable if i didn't hear a difference, the difference is too big to be placebo and the subwoofer defintly gained power as more of the house was shaking at lower volume levels. The cable i got was this 1 here http://markgrantcables.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=45_18&products_id=47 . Highly recommended it made a huge difference for me.
 
Nov 26, 2010 at 9:53 AM Post #161 of 204
Patrick,
as always you comment on equipment you've never heard and as always you present your opinion and that's all it is, in your usual arrogant manner as stone cold fact - you need to pull your neck in pal and have some respect for what others have actually listened to and heard.
 
You don't suggest, you dictate, have you got a funny little snot catcher moustache by any chance.
 
Haloxt - I have to agree with what you say about large gauge conductors. I thought that paying €16.90 for a metre of the Yarbo 7000 cable was worth a punt. It's o/diameter is 16mm but it is still flexible. It uses OFC flat copper bundles and each conductor bundle is sheilded including earth and the whole sheilded again. I use it with my h/amp which I think is a bit OTT and it is the ambiance that has improved. I make my own i/cs and blackness is'nt part of their or my systems' style,rather  I like  illumination around  instruments. Bass has always been multilayered but like I say ambiance is very real.
 
I actually emailed Yarbo to see if they would make a smaller gauge version of the 7000, more suitable for h/amps/CDPs/TTs/DACs but got no reply - how stupid  NOT to interface with clients. Anyway it is a very good power cable and used with Japanese plugs whose excess production is dumped on the Hong Kong market makes for a reasonably priced power cord, which would be good to do a head-to-head with the big bucks power cords.
 
JRG1990 - nice to hear your enjoying what you have - it floats your boat and that's all that counts. 
 
Nov 26, 2010 at 12:51 PM Post #162 of 204
What's tragic about people like patrick is they think science is a bludgeon tool, and they have the tenacity to abuse it like in patrick's attempt at playing Dr. Freud. Total disservice to everyone.
 
Dec 31, 2010 at 7:36 PM Post #163 of 204
I don't see how anyone can tell you that a different power cord will or will not make a difference. I don't know which component you have, and neither does Patrick.
 
What I can tell you is most CD players have a 1 amp fuse, designated by "1A". This will be marked both on the component and the fuse itself. What this means is the component operates at less than 1 amp of current flow. If something ever goes wrong inside the component, which causes it to draw more than 1 amp, the fuse element ( a very small wire in the fuse), will melt and disconnect.
 
Now this has nothing to do with the sound of power cords on a component. Why they sound different is unknown so far.
 
On one of my CD players, an 8 gauge cord sounds the best. Second best is a 14 gauge cord. Both of these are made by JPS Labs. The third best is another 8 gauge cord by another manufacturer. Interestingly, one of the worst sounding cords is a solid core 8 gauge.
 
What I am getting at is, the gauge of the cord is only one factor in the design. And even if all the other factors are known, there is still no way of knowing how the cord will sound... until you plug it in and listen to it.
 
Most of all, don't listen to "know it alls", that really know nothing pertinent, and who tell you its all imagination.
 
The best sounding cord will be rewarding for your investment, but you will just have to try a few, maybe many.
 
Jan 1, 2011 at 6:35 AM Post #164 of 204
I typed a long post responding, but then I ran into this after I typed it.  I should've just linked this to begin with.  Definitely worth a read.  Read them both, all of them
biggrin.gif
.  This guy puts things way better than I ever could.
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/531244/cables-and-snake-oil-please-read-before-you-are-fooled
http://www.ethanwiner.com/believe.html
 
Jan 1, 2011 at 11:02 AM Post #165 of 204
 
 
If your a cable atheist, I suggest you give a Pangea power cable a try.  There inexpensive and work better I think than my beloved Cardas power cables.  Buy from Audio Advisor and return if you remain a cable atheist.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top