Invisible Shield ?
Dec 7, 2005 at 5:12 PM Post #31 of 111
*A member has mentioned that Invisible Shield Co.'s 3M material feels different than the bestskinsever one. To sum it up, it feels of better quality. I have not tried InvisibleShield myself, so please take this as a heads-up. Thank you.
 
Dec 7, 2005 at 6:12 PM Post #32 of 111
I bought mine from BSE. Since I didn't want to apply the skin to the click wheel, I did the peircing test on the slick wheel piece. I used a pointy ballpoint pen as the piercing tool. I tried very very hard, in the end, the ballpoint pen finally was able to go through the skin. So BSE's shields are definitely not regular wraps. Whether it's the same thing as IS, that's left for those whom had tried both to judge.
 
Dec 7, 2005 at 6:16 PM Post #33 of 111
Quote:

Originally Posted by gshan

Notice the air in the gaps around wheel :shrugs: . Texture also looks bumpy, but it feels smooth to the touch.-shan



Hello, but just fyi - did you remove the strips around the wheel and the button? between the front body film and the scrollwheel there is a SMALL strip, a ring of invisibleshield you must remove. the same between the scrollwheel and the middle button. if you don't separate them and just put the whole sheet down, you're going to get bubbles.
 
Dec 7, 2005 at 6:20 PM Post #34 of 111
Quote:

Originally Posted by gshan
Sure -

sd3pw.gif


<- is a plain front cover. -> is the back cover, with a top flap and also identical left and right flaps. Please note the top and left/right flaps aren't accurate to proportion and position. This is a rough recollection.



btw the BSE flaps are cut differently - the corners and sides actually fit better in a fan pattern in the corners and ALL the way up the sides. Both the invisibleshield and the BSE have cut out scrollwheels and buttons so make certain to apply them one at a time - body, then wheel, then button. Otherwise you'll get that stiffness when you try to push the wheel or button down, and you'll get bubbles.

and yes the BSE scratches far easier than the invisibleshield, and the invisibleshield is thicker and rubberier.
 
Dec 7, 2005 at 7:05 PM Post #35 of 111
Hi Jahn,

I have uncovered and covered wheel versions of the BSE, but have only used the covered version. I was playing around with it for a while and I don't recall another layer below the wheel area. Perhaps this is only the case with the uncovered version (with the separate pieces for the middle button and wheel, and front).

I'm going to just buy Invis shield, sell the BSE.

Thanks again for the info.
 
Dec 7, 2005 at 7:10 PM Post #36 of 111
Quote:

Originally Posted by gshan
Hi Jahn,

I have uncovered and covered wheel versions of the BSE, but have only used the covered version. I was playing around with it for a while and I don't recall another layer below the wheel area. Perhaps this is only the case with the uncovered version (with the separate pieces for the middle button and wheel, and front).

I'm going to just buy Invis shield, sell the BSE.

Thanks again for the info.



No prob - wow some versions of it don't have cut out wheels and buttons? Both my IS and BSE did, but maybe that's because i just got both recently and they are new additions.
 
Dec 7, 2005 at 7:52 PM Post #37 of 111
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jahn
No prob - wow some versions of it don't have cut out wheels and buttons? Both my IS and BSE did, but maybe that's because i just got both recently and they are new additions.


I think our confusion occurs because the Nano has choice of cutout and non-cutout versions for IS and BSE for the same price. I believe 5G only has cutout version. I can only imagine more water and air bubbles trapped under the large scrollwheel of the 5G if using a one-piece front. It only makes sense to have cutouts, imo.

If anyone else can comment on differences between IS and BSE please do so. I'll try to leave an opinion. if and when I rip off the nano BSE and swap with IS instead.

note: If a current owner ever decides to remove IS/BSE permanently, please remember to gently press down on the wheel when doing so. The last thing you would want is for the IS/BSE to yank on and damage the scroll wheel.
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Have a nice day.
 
Dec 12, 2005 at 7:46 AM Post #38 of 111
So my question is, after I've had one of these for a few months.. And say I wanted to get rid of it or something, is it going to leave any long lasting residue or gluey substance on the Ipod? Or do these things come off scratch/streak free? I know there's no perfect solution when it comes to protecting these things but I'd hate to have it all messy and nasty looking because of a skin..

JD
 
Dec 12, 2005 at 11:34 PM Post #39 of 111
Quote:

Originally Posted by mr_baseball_08
So my question is, after I've had one of these for a few months.. And say I wanted to get rid of it or something, is it going to leave any long lasting residue or gluey substance on the Ipod? Or do these things come off scratch/streak free? I know there's no perfect solution when it comes to protecting these things but I'd hate to have it all messy and nasty looking because of a skin..

JD



nope. I screwed up my Invisible Shield pretty badly the first time I put it on and they sent me a replacement. When I pulled off the first cover a week later there was absolutely no residue left on my ipod.
 
Dec 13, 2005 at 1:15 AM Post #40 of 111
Quote:

Originally Posted by illuxionist
The best method for IS application is to use ammonia based glass cleaner - Windex/Windolene instead of soap/water. I read and saw it somewhere in ilounge forum and the results are fantastic. Peel off the film with tweezers, lift it vertically, then spray Windex on the adhesive area. Remove accessive liquid at the bottom with finger. Now you can apply it on your iPod. You will find it's very easy to adjust the film to the perfect position. It's just that convenient with Windex.
IMO invisibleshield customer service is very fast and responsive. My first shipment was lost. Then acquired a 2nd shipment. It came one week later. However the 2nd piece was not properly cutout, thus impossible for me to remove the film. Emailed them to send another piece. It should reach anytime this week.
smily_headphones1.gif



Are there pictures of this? The Windex doesn't react with the plastic or metal on the back?
 
Dec 13, 2005 at 1:50 AM Post #41 of 111
Well - I have been following this quite closely. I just put in my order for the IS yesterday. I will also be getting powersupports shield for the front of my iPOD. Hopefully the combination will work well.
 
Dec 13, 2005 at 8:01 PM Post #42 of 111
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jahn
btw the BSE flaps are cut differently - the corners and sides actually fit better in a fan pattern in the corners and ALL the way up the sides. Both the invisibleshield and the BSE have cut out scrollwheels and buttons so make certain to apply them one at a time - body, then wheel, then button. Otherwise you'll get that stiffness when you try to push the wheel or button down, and you'll get bubbles.

and yes the BSE scratches far easier than the invisibleshield, and the invisibleshield is thicker and rubberier.



No offense but I disagree with your method although when I called IS, they agreed with you. If you install the body first and the fit is not exactly perfect, and then install the click wheel,and button, they will both be very difficult to press because a bit of the body shield will block it. If, on the other hand, you install the button, then the click wheel and then the body, even if the body is not a perfect fit, the buttons will still activate easily because what is overlapping will be above them (if that makes any sense.)
 
Dec 13, 2005 at 8:15 PM Post #43 of 111
Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffnnj
No offense but I disagree with your method although when I called IS, they agreed with you. If you install the body first and the fit is not exactly perfect, and then install the click wheel,and button, they will both be very difficult to press because a bit of the body shield will block it. If, on the other hand, you install the button, then the click wheel and then the body, even if the body is not a perfect fit, the buttons will still activate easily because what is overlapping will be above them (if that makes any sense.)


No, that makes sense. In fact, some people even just put the whole sheet on there, then carefully strip away the boundaries between each part once the skin settles. I haven't tried that way, but it makes sense that this would align everything the best.
 
Dec 13, 2005 at 9:28 PM Post #44 of 111
received my IS. the front took about 5-10 minutes to align all the edges. I let it dry for 2 hours, and then put the back on. the back was a hassle b/c of the tabs that stuck out. but after playing around with it for 30 minutes, the little tabs just got limp and everything went on. i proceeded to let it dry overnight, and in the morningit came out GREAT.
 
Dec 13, 2005 at 10:16 PM Post #45 of 111
Quote:

Originally Posted by RoninDiesel
received my IS. the front took about 5-10 minutes to align all the edges. I let it dry for 2 hours, and then put the back on. the back was a hassle b/c of the tabs that stuck out. but after playing around with it for 30 minutes, the little tabs just got limp and everything went on. i proceeded to let it dry overnight, and in the morningit came out GREAT.


you have no idea how perverted that can be made to sound.
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I'd like to pick up a screen protector for my Zen Micro. Any suggestions?
 

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