[Mr BubbaHyde]

Thanks for your continued response Mr B, I do appreciate it. Although as you can tell I'm pretty frustrated I will try a few more things.
Ifi responsed to my ticket and as you might guess suggested that I try to connect directly to the router. I'll try that, or as you suggest maybe even the modem to bypass the router. Tech support is also asking for other info such as is router set to VPN or other security measures (no), the brand switch (netgear with a smart TV attached, working fine) and to check in file explorer on my computer in network. I'll investigate further this weekend, but I no longer ever get a green left light as I once did. Always red now, so it seems worse. I will do the reset again as well. Router is a Tenda AC-15 circa 2019 if that matters.

If that light is red or two lights red something has gone wrong and it will need the USB C reset procedure.

If you can send me a PM and have a Windows PC I can get you the reset software.

Let me know, and yes I have always found that if initial setup failed, then doing my first post reset usually always work, as I say in that post connect directly to the modem and some other words lol

Just got me up if you don't get it going

What browser do you use?

Cheers!!

 

[AVMiii]

Thanks for your continued response Mr B, I do appreciate it. Although as you can tell I'm pretty frustrated I will try a few more things.
Ifi responsed to my ticket and as you might guess suggested that I try to connect directly to the router. I'll try that, or as you suggest maybe even the modem to bypass the router. Tech support is also asking for other info such as is router set to VPN or other security measures (no), the brand switch (netgear with a smart TV attached, working fine) and to check in file explorer on my computer in network. I'll investigate further this weekend, but I no longer ever get a green left light as I once did. Always red now, so it seems worse. I will do the reset again as well. Router is a Tenda AC-15 circa 2019 if that matters.

PM sent

 

[SHXMD]

Just to chime in-I had a Hip DAC 2 causing issues.

Tech support was superior and frankly well beyond any other manufacturer I have used.

They are dogged in their approach.

Good luck!

 

[TBMY]

Hi!

Just updated SW to 2.32.9 on my ZS with iPower Elite 15V, ethernet streaming, Tidal Connect and USB DAC: My sound got better!
Transparency, air and bass improved a little bit! Great!!

Cheers!

 

[Mr BubbaHyde]

Hi!

Just updated SW to 2.32.9 on my ZS with iPower Elite 15V, ethernet streaming, Tidal Connect and USB DAC: My sound got better!
Transparency, air and bass improved a little bit! Great!!

Cheers!

We are glad to hear that, and Thank you for your thoughts and your support!

Cheers!!

 

[AVMiii]

PM sent

OK, well the streamer sort of works now... How's that for a recommendation?
Almost too many details to sort through, but it didn't help that I had a bad wired ethernet switch. I discovered this after setting up with the router and then going back to the stereo that I found (finally) that had a non-functional port. I finally got it working (new network switch), both wired and wireless, and went through the setup, disabling the wireless network and noting the ip that my router assigned to the streamer. So, I then tried out tidal connect. The first afternoon that I did this, the tidal connect dropped out after 1/2 hr to and hour, several times. Streamer still connected to wired internet. The next day, I decided to compare sound quality to my preamp/Dac (DEQX with USB input). I carefully stopped tidal connect, deleted the playlist and went to the alternate input, loaded the same music and played again. I only did this for like 15 min, and back and forth maybe 4 times, but I do like the streamer. It has a bigger soundstage, more detail etc etc. So, the SC is worth it to me. I'm using the stock supplied 12 v 1 amp wall wart. I plan to buy a Teredak DC-30 touch which is supposed to be an improvement on the standard DC with and R core transformer. --If the streamer behaves!

However, this streamer is a bit touchy and I'm not quite sure all is ok.
While the streamer was in Tidal connect mode, I had what I believe to be an unrelated computer freeze. Oh, I'm using my wired desktop as a com device to tidal connect. Anyway, the computer froze, I rebooted, yet tidal continued to play. I guess that the streamer was still playing from the playlist. When I attempted to link to the streamer again using tidal connect the streamer was not in the list. It was no longer connnected to the internet,. I had to hit the streamer reset button and even holding in for only 2 seconds I got both red lights. I left it that way for 5 min or so and it cleared up amazingly. The red lights were gone and just the white left light was left and the streamer was back on the internet.
I sure hope that this incident was related to distruption of the tidal connect and not merely to turning the unit off and on. I'll play around a bit more with it. Hope its a little more reliable than I fear..

 

[AVMiii]

If I keep the streamer I'm thinking of buying a Teradak DC-30W LPS or what might be an upgraded version a DC-30W Touch. What size power cord connecter do I need for to match the Zen Streamer?

 

[Mr BubbaHyde]

If I keep the streamer I'm thinking of buying a Teradak DC-30W LPS or what might be an upgraded version a DC-30W Touch. What size power cord connecter do I need for to match the Zen Streamer?

I'm gonna get this backwards but it's the standard 5.5 whatever by 2.5 barrel

Zen accepts 9-15v most like 12v but completely your call



Cheers!!

 

[greenblured]

If I keep the streamer I'm thinking of buying a Teradak DC-30W LPS or what might be an upgraded version a DC-30W Touch. What size power cord connecter do I need for to match the Zen Streamer?

The female barrel connector on the Zen Stream is 5,5mm x 2,1mm. The typical DC power cord that comes with a Teradak LPS is a 5,5mm x 2,5mm male barrel plug with two tiny springs that makes it fit a female 2,1mm connector. It can be used in the Zen Stream, but will not be optimal. It will be a little loose connection. The best is to use a dedicated 5,5mm x 2,1mm connector (polarity: innside of the plugg is positive, outside is negative)

The cable connector on the 30W Teradak itself is Aviation GX-12 two pin. (polarity: pin 1 is negative, pin 2 is positive)

 

[Mr BubbaHyde]

The female barrel connector on the Zen Stream is 5,5mm x 2,1mm. The typical DC power cord that comes with a Teradak LPS is a 5,5mm x 2,5mm male barrel plug with two tiny springs that makes it fit a female 2,1mm connector. It can be used in the Zen Stream, but will not be optimal. It will be a little loose connection. The best is to use a dedicated 5,5mm x 2,1mm connector (polarity: innside of the plugg is positive, outside is negative)

The cable connector on the 30W Teradak itself is Aviation GX-12 two pin. (polarity: pin 1 is negative, pin 2 is positive)

Thank you for the correction, I was sort of sure but clarification is always best!

Thanks again

Cheers!!

 

[AVMiii]

Thanks to you both for the info!
Greenblurred, it sounds like you are familiar with Teradak PS. The seller has suggested a DC-30 touch ($150) over the standard DC-30 ($100) and even the touch over a bit more expensive model ($200 +) as I told him that I needed only 12 V, 2 amp. The most expensive PS comes in various 12v, 2, 3 or 4amp versions. No reason to go for more than 2 amps for this app I'd think. Any comments on these PS would be welcome. I'd like to stay in this price range.

 

[TBMY]

Hi!

Anyone with Tidal subscription that also have Roon?
Which one sounds better on ZS?
ZS and Tidal Connect vs ZS and Roon Ready (Endpoint), playing same track from Tidal?

Does CPU power of Roon Core have much to say in this equation?
Same quality, better, worse?
Experiences?
Roon is quite expensive, so is it worth the money...?

Cheers

 

[Vitor Goncalves]

Hi!

Anyone with Tidal subscription that also have Roon?
Which one sounds better on ZS?
ZS and Tidal Connect vs ZS and Roon Ready (Endpoint), playing same track from Tidal?

Does CPU power of Roon Core have much to say in this equation?
Same quality, better, worse?
Experiences?
Roon is quite expensive, so is it worth the money...?

Cheers

Based on my own experience (or perception, if you like) the answer is "there's no difference". I used to be a Tidal Connect user ( that's why I bought the ZS almost 2 years ago) and moved to Roon about a year ago. I use Roon on a NUC with plenty of CPU and RAM. Roon does not improve SQ over Tidal (or Quobuz), nor does it make it worse. It gives you a different user experience, including DSP (I don't use it). As far as I can gather from posts by Roon founders in the Roon Community, Roon doesn't claim to improve sound quality and CPU power of the Roon Core doesn't make a real difference either, unless you're using several zones, with a heavy library and your core is underpowered. I just compared Neil Young's "Interstate" (pristine sound) using Tidal Connect and Roon and couldn't find any difference. Both sounded great.

P.S. I'm using the ZS with Zen Dac V2 (both with Ipower X) and Seenheiser HD600.

 

[Mr BubbaHyde]

Based on my own experience (or perception, if you like) the answer is "there's no difference". I used to be a Tidal Connect user ( that's why I bought the ZS almost 2 years ago) and moved to Roon about a year ago. I use Roon on a NUC with plenty of CPU and RAM. Roon does not improve SQ over Tidal (or Quobuz), nor does it make it worse. It gives you a different user experience, including DSP (I don't use it). As far as I can gather from posts by Roon founders in the Roon Community, Roon doesn't claim to improve sound quality and CPU power of the Roon Core doesn't make a real difference either, unless you're using several zones, with a heavy library and your core is underpowered. I just compared Neil Young's "Interstate" (pristine sound) using Tidal Connect and Roon and couldn't find any difference. Both sounded great.

P.S. I'm using the ZS with Zen Dac V2 (both with Ipower X) and Seenheiser HD600.

Very well said sir!

Roon is 100% (IMO) about the platforms experience and dare I say ease of cataloging, suggestions, and experience, along with ease of user, everything just works right.

While Roon can bring improvements via PEQ, and headphone crossfeed and so forth, I believe most Roon users finds the Platform the best out there.

But these are your ears, any Roon member here can offer you a extended trial to hear and see this for yourself, just PM us!

Let your ears be the final judge!

Cheers!!

 

[greenblured]

Thanks to you both for the info!
Greenblurred, it sounds like you are familiar with Teradak PS. The seller has suggested a DC-30 touch ($150) over the standard DC-30 ($100) and even the touch over a bit more expensive model ($200 +) as I told him that I needed only 12 V, 2 amp. The most expensive PS comes in various 12v, 2, 3 or 4amp versions. No reason to go for more than 2 amps for this app I'd think. Any comments on these PS would be welcome. I'd like to stay in this price range.

In general the more expensive ones (with the same specs as the cheaper ones) have better filtering/lower noise. An LPS with higher current capacity will run cooler and have better headroom which is a good thing. Will it sound better than lower current capacity ones? May be, some are reporting better dynamics when using overdimentionaled LPS's.

The Teradak i am using (30W-14V) gets warm, but sounds good. Should i have to replace it, i would go for a 50W because of the lower heat dissipation.
I have tried a 25W-12V Breeze. Sounded inferior to the Teradak an got toasty hot. A Tiancoolkei 65W-12V had a nice smooth sound to it, but slightly lacked the dynamics of the 14V Teradak. It ran totaly cool to touch though.