iBasso D10. .UPDATES 1st page, with Current Opamp Choices by HiFlight . . . images page 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 21, 71
Jul 20, 2009 at 5:00 PM Post #2,926 of 4,153
Yes your ears are very sensitive,

The problem resistor happened to affect the right side of the Amplifier and causes the gain to be less than the left.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Could this explain why the gain switch on high increases the volume in my left ear slightly more than the right? I use it all the time in low gain, so it isn't much of an issue for me but I'd like to have that fixed. (PS - tested by leaving one earpiece out of one ear, and flipping the gain from lo to hi, and then trying the other ear)


 
Jul 20, 2009 at 5:59 PM Post #2,927 of 4,153
Quote:

Originally Posted by fuseboxx /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I've finally done my first round of opamp rolling
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The D10 is still working fine, and there is no sign of smoke, so I suppose I did this thing correctly. Haha.

I changed the stock setup to the AD8656 /w bypassed buffers combination and currently doing my first round of listening.

Everything went relatively smoothly, I'd say:

* I removed the screws with no trouble.

* Although I expected it to slide more smoothly, I slid the D10 out of the case even though it seemed there was slight resistance and some scraping sound.

* After exposing it enough to see all three opamps, I removed the ADA4841-2YRZ from the main socket and put in the AD8656 with relative ease, making sure that the orientation is correct by taking notice of the square at the corner of the opamp board.

* Taking out and putting in the buffers were trickier though because the space to take them out and put them in was more crowded that the main socket, but I guess I still managed successfully.

* After than I slid the D10 back into the case, noticing the same scraping sound and slight resistance.

* Then I put back the screws although I think I skewed the plates a bit since my D10 is wobbling a bit on my desk now
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I haven't listened enough to give a solid impression yet, although I will note that I was amused that even the "power down sound" has changed.
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I used to notice this sound before: If I had my headphones on when I'd turn off the D10, I'd hear this sound like air being released from a vaccum. Now that I changed opamp configuration, it sounds more like a laser shutting off. Hah.

Anyway, I'll post impressions eventually.

Does iBasso sell other opamps for the D10?
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I find it easier to take out all the opamps before putting any back in, so try that (unless I misread your comment and you did that)

Also, yes iBasso does sell some opamps: LTC6241HV, AD8616, LMH6643 were all available to me at very, very affordable prices. I don't think I'm supposed to mention prices, but I'll just say that you will be pleasantly surprised.

Of course, you have to factor in shipping. I don't think it's worth it unless you buy the opamps at the time you also purchase one of their main products.
 
Jul 20, 2009 at 7:07 PM Post #2,928 of 4,153
I was thinking of putting up my UHA3 after getting this D10. After about 48+ hours of burn in, it's starting to open up with a bigger soundstage. Today, I wouldn't say it's a huge diff over the UHA3 but I'm optimistic.

That is until I started to listen to it in it's most used configuration, my work desk in the cube farm. I use my UHA3 as my USB DAC w/ my IEMs. My iPhone is on my desk, and my coworkers have their phones nearby. The GSM buzz is beyond belief on the D10, so LOUD. I compared it against the UHA3 by forcing data connections. The UHA3 is dead quiet. Sadly this could be a deal killer for me.
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I know there are some mentions of OPAMPs that reduce the buzz. Does anyone know if any of the included OPAMPs reduce the buzz? I can't imagine spending more money for a Topkit just to eliminate the buzz. [My ICs are at home btw.]

I'd hate to give this thing up, love the upgradeability. But I can't justify more cost to make the buzz on par w/ my current UHA. I know the SQ wouldn't be the same but I do have the Hornet I received last week to make up for that.
 
Jul 20, 2009 at 11:41 PM Post #2,931 of 4,153
Quote:

Originally Posted by madwolf /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes your ears are very sensitive,

The problem resistor happened to affect the right side of the Amplifier and causes the gain to be less than the left.



I guess I should get my ears insured by Lloyds of London then.
 
Jul 20, 2009 at 11:44 PM Post #2,933 of 4,153
Quote:

Originally Posted by oldskoolboarder /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I know there are some mentions of OPAMPs that reduce the buzz. Does anyone know if any of the included OPAMPs reduce the buzz? I can't imagine spending more money for a Topkit just to eliminate the buzz. [My ICs are at home btw.]



Every combo I've tried different than than the stock opamp seems to exhibit little to no RFI buzz. I think just a few pages back someone mentions the AD8656 with the bypassed buffers as being a big improvement in this area.
 
Jul 21, 2009 at 12:03 AM Post #2,934 of 4,153
Thanks Wolfen. I played some more at work and in some positions, the UHA3 will have noise, but it's WAY less than the D10 now. Looks like it's time to crack it open and swap OPAMPs. If I can get it on par w/ the UHA, I"ll keep it.

Keeping my fingers crossed.

On the road, I'll be using a short (3") LOD so it's hard to separate my source and amp.
 
Jul 21, 2009 at 12:26 AM Post #2,935 of 4,153
Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I guess I should get my ears insured by Lloyds of London then.


What I'm about to say is completely of topic, but I can't help myself as I work in the insurance business
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The Society of Lloyds is not an insurance company but a "market place" or a society of companies (syndicates) that shares risk on behalf of a third party. Insurance company ABC wants to underwrite a risk, instead of taking the risk by itself they purchase cooperation from a larger group of insurer... a bit technical but rather interesting if you like this kind of stuff
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So, what this means is that you would only be able to (indirectly) insure your delicate ears at Lloyds (but not by Lloyds) if you bought a insurance from your local insurer who in turn re-insures his risk (your ears) by advertising it at the Lloyds marketplace
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Now, I'd better run and hide before you lot beat me with a stick
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Jul 21, 2009 at 12:36 AM Post #2,936 of 4,153
Oh my. Insurance-fi.
 
Jul 21, 2009 at 2:28 AM Post #2,937 of 4,153
I wounder what the insurance premium loading for someone who constantly puts a high sensitivity IEM into the ear, and not to forget, Ear Impression.

This is a photo of my first mod
D10Round1.jpg


A and C are place in parallel to signal bypass caps.
B and D are power supply decoupling caps.

The choice of component is not what I have hoped for, but space is really a premium here. And I have to make do with what spares I have lying at home.
 
Jul 21, 2009 at 2:34 AM Post #2,938 of 4,153
Another thing about opamps: Can I just order anywhere and they'll come packaged in the same way iBasso provides them? Or would I have to do some soldering/other stuff before I'm able to use other opamps with the D10?

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonJuan /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I find it easier to take out all the opamps before putting any back in, so try that (unless I misread your comment and you did that)


Nah, you read correctly. I took out the main and then put in the replacement immediately
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I'll try your suggestion next time. thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonJuan /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Also, yes iBasso does sell some opamps: LTC6241HV, AD8616, LMH6643 were all available to me at very, very affordable prices. I don't think I'm supposed to mention prices, but I'll just say that you will be pleasantly surprised.


Great! I'll read up on these.
 
Jul 21, 2009 at 3:26 AM Post #2,940 of 4,153
Objective is NOT to add capacitance.

For the signal bypass capacitors I place solid cap (better high frequency response) to compensate the shortfall for electrolytic.

For the capacitors at the OP-AMP it is to ensure stable power supply. For this to be effective it have to be as close to the IC as possible.
 

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