I just registered for a motorcycle course. Advice, anyone?
Nov 29, 2009 at 3:08 AM Post #16 of 39
Quote:

Originally Posted by TheKisho /img/forum/go_quote.gif
They tell you to use all 4 fingers while operating the brake levers for the main reason if the bike goes down and the brake lever gets ramed into the handle bars for some reason, you don't lose any fingers (I've met people which this has happened to [missing fingers]).


As for the other stuff I'm not going to get into a flame war with you but a difference of opinions and experiences leads to different conclusions. Still any time you have a passenger things get messy. But I'm sure they will do some tandem riding at the course.



Hmmm....All the track day guys and pro racers that crash out who use two fingers and I don't recall anyone losing their fingers using the two finger technique. The only person that comes to mind is Roger Lee Hayden who lost his pinky finger after the doctors decided to amputate it post wreck. In my opinion the dynamics of the wreck is what caused the injuries to Roger Lee, not the use of the two finger braking technique. If there were an issue with finger injuries, you would see them at the track where riders are more apt to have high speed crashes than on the street.

Also, the brake lever would break long before the lever would ever get rammed into your fingers. If your brake lever ever gets to the point where you can modulate it (without snapping the lever off), then you have deeper issues with your front brake. The only time a front brake lever starts to creep towards the handle bar close enough to touch your other fingers is if you are having sever fade issues.

It's clear to me you haven't taken the MSF class. No MSF class I've seen (and been a part of) has ever had students ride with a pillion. Never.

This is not a flame war. It's just an outing of the facts. You say in your last sentence in your previous post about me needing to take a safety course to correct "bad" habits. Hmm...I guess you missed the part where I took the BRC AND the ERC class from the MSF. Also, I've had 3 2 day camp sessions with the California Superbike School and was given class lectures by Keith Code himself along with the riding coaches who have completed his riding coach school. With one of my coaches being Misti Hurst who competes at the AMA pro level. So I guess, my training isn't good enough and I need to take your so called safety course in a parking lot to correct my schooled bad habits.
 
Nov 29, 2009 at 3:19 AM Post #17 of 39
Quote:

Originally Posted by TheKisho /img/forum/go_quote.gif
This isn't track riding. What might be okay for the track may not be the right course of action elsewhere (something maybe transferable but other things might just be bad habits [like all skills]). Not trying to start a flame war but you wouldn't compare apples to pears [leave track riding to track].


It's funny. People who spout this out are typically the ones who never have been on a track. Funny how that works out. While I don't ride balls out on the street like I do on the track, many of the skills I use on the track apply equally on the street. A corner is a corner. A straight away is a straight away.

I also find it amusing that you don't want to start a flame war but feel at ease in calling my point of view bad habits. I haven't used derogatory terms like you have towards me. But the more you speak, the more you're showing shear ignorance. Go on and do what you feel is right. But I'm not going to stand by and let the things you are saying go by without challenging them because it may not have gotten you in trouble yet but anyone who follows the dribble you're spewing is gambling with their own safety.
 
Nov 29, 2009 at 3:50 AM Post #18 of 39
Do the course, have faith in the instructor, don't be afraid to push the bars the opposite way to where you want to go, watch out for cars- some folks just don't see you or have no consideration for the bike rider (it will be surprising how much more aware you will become of bike riders when you are one yourself) and most importantly have fun.
Don't buy too small a bike to start, you will get the power upgrade itch as your skills and experience grows. I also agree with zx10guy, the Suzuki SV650 is a superb bike to have as a first bike. The engine and bike is bullet proof, and i am really like the look of the new streetfighter version, Gladius- bad name nice looking bike.
 
Nov 29, 2009 at 4:08 AM Post #19 of 39
Congrats and you made a wise decision to take the MSF course, it helped me a lot when I first decided to get into motorcycling. Don't skimp out on protective gear, get a cool looking helmet, padded leathers, gloves and dedicated riding boots. And in Cali traffic get a reflective vest or have some sort of Scotch-lite in your jacket. Have fun and be safe and remember the fact that you are basically invisible to other drivers and ride on the defensive side of the spectrum and anticipate the worst and have an escape route planned.

Don't go to crazy with your first bike, a 500cc will have enough pep to launch you from the start but as you gain experience the urge for a larger size engine will be there and go for it when you log in enough saddle time. My first bike was a 650 single and it was torquey and launched from the start but was a bit of a slug on the freeway when passing. If you don't mind to tinker, get a carburretted bike, you can rejet the engine and throw some free-flowing exhaust to tap into more horsepower when you feel that you have maxed out the bike. Good advice on the SV650 from previous posts.

I sold my bike but I am on the lookout for another and I love the look of naked bikes.
 
Nov 29, 2009 at 4:30 AM Post #20 of 39
This may not be the ideal first post but I was a rider long before I was an audiophile and feel the need to add my own perspective to this discussion. 30 years in the saddle on numerous continents should lend a bit of credence to my own assesment of this situation and I have to say zx10guy has it 100% correct. Quite frankly I find most of TheKisho's comments starting with his recomendation of a first bike to be completely outside of anything approching wise advice, I mean really, a 600 Sportbike? A 100+ HP bike is not a learners machine by any strech of the imagination! Rear braking as a primary means of slowing? Ludicrous!

As far a recomendations of my own as to bike selection I would have to recommend finding a bike you feel comfortable on and go from there. The Suzuki SV650 is a great bike, nimble and responsive to rider input without the telepathic feel of a hypersensitive sudo racer, tractable power from a V-twin negating a lot of dancing around the shift lever to stay in the band and as a bonus it's a damn sexy machine with plenty of mods available and a huge community of riders devoted to them.

While inovative machines in their own right the Buells suffered from a lack of support from both factoy as well as dealership since being gobbled up by the Motor Company. And forget the "It's a Harley so the cruiser guys will be cool" idea because they won't, hell, they don't like Sportsters either unless the pilot is a chick. It really is a shame that Buell was shut down because I found them to be quite engaging machines in their own right though still not something I'd recommend to a novice, their uber fast turn in rates due to such a short wheelbase not ideal for inspiring confidence in a newby. Don't worry, just about any machine made in the last two decades has passable brakes and performance which will bring a smile to your face so go for what gives you a solid feel in the seat and hang on.

Take that course, it's great and as a bonus completion will drop your insurace rate but don't stop there. If you can, find something small to practice on till you gain confidence and do exactly that, practice. Find some sandy sections in a parking lot and purposley ride through them, turning and stopping to get aquainted with the wash. Ride in the rain to get a feel for the limited visability and slowing of inputs nessesary. Ride in the wind, ride in the heat, ride in the cold, ride until you feel confident in your abilities. Do these things and more so they don't suprise you when you're out on the road because it will occur and you're better off knowing what to expect rather than react without a clue. Trust me, I've known guys with more sack than skill, known being the key word here.

Buy a good helmet and make sure it fits correctly. Buy a real set of riding gloves and boots, they're every bit as important as a helmet and you'll need them for entry into the riders safety course anyways. A good bike specific jacket be it textile or leather is a safety as well as a comfort decision though with the broad array to choose from you can make a fashion statement as well...nothing wrong with looking cool! A set of riding pants is a wise investment as well and will allow you to get from point A to B without looking like you just rode up on a bike. If I have one thing to say it's to buy a generic color set rather than try to color match your bike as it sucks when you realize your snazzy suit clashs if you buy a different bike.

Lastly and perhaps most important, enjoy yourself. Motorcycles are every bit as engaging a hobby as there is, the freedom and limitless possibilities for seeing as well as feeling the road addictive and not easly given up once you're hooked. Good luck and happy trails to you.
 
Nov 29, 2009 at 4:36 AM Post #21 of 39
Quote:

Originally Posted by Spynxxx /img/forum/go_quote.gif
<snip>
Lastly and perhaps most important, enjoy yourself. Motorcycles are every bit as engaging a hobby as there is, the freedom and limitless possibilities for seeing as well as feeling the road addictive and not easly given up once you're hooked. Good luck and happy trails to you.



Great closing words and first post! Welcome to head-fi Spynxxx.
 
Nov 29, 2009 at 4:39 AM Post #22 of 39
Quote:

Originally Posted by zx10guy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Also, the brake lever would break long before the lever would ever get rammed into your fingers. If your brake lever ever gets to the point where you can modulate it (without snapping the lever off), then you have deeper issues with your front brake. The only time a front brake lever starts to creep towards the handle bar close enough to touch your other fingers is if you are having sever fade issues.


Maybe so, but some how it has happened at least once (to this one person I know). Circumstances must of been just right (once in a life time). In life some things happen how people don't think even could happen. This was a long time ago on an older bike too so it could of been resolved.


Quote:

Originally Posted by zx10guy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
It's clear to me you haven't taken the MSF class. No MSF class I've seen (and been a part of) has ever had students ride with a pillion. Never.


Maybe the MSF class doesn't but the equivalent course I've took (since MSF is American only) has you for a little while (10-20mins) on the second full day get accustom to how a passenger effects your control of the bike so if you so choose to take a passenger later on you won't be caught off guard by the changes and affects. This course/class is highly regarded in Ontario as one of the best motorcycle training courses you can take in Ontario if not Canada [Motorcycle Driver Training course offered at Conestoga College, and it is a Canada Safety Council (CSC) Motorcycle training course]. I live by what I learned there, it's saved my butt on many occasions and I'm not going to disregard it now. If your right then something bad should happen to me in the future due to my 'wrong' 'missinformed' knowledge of motorcycle safety.


Quote:

Originally Posted by zx10guy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
It's funny. People who spout this out are typically the ones who never have been on a track. Funny how that works out. While I don't ride balls out on the street like I do on the track, many of the skills I use on the track apply equally on the street. A corner is a corner. A straight away is a straight away.


I don't ride track, true. It's not my thing. I do like a bit of speed and corners but still track is boring. I ride to enjoy the scenery and adventure rather then how fast can I complete this track or trip. Sure a corner is a corner and a straight is a straight. And a track may be a more ideal for riding as it a much more well cared for surface.

How fast do you go? May play a factor in your braking strategy, I don't know. And is the main problem they worry about is loss of traction in the corners and the back tired slipping out by using the rear brake.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Spynxxx /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Quite frankly I find most of TheKisho's comments starting with his recomendation of a first bike to be completely outside of anything approching wise advice, I mean really, a 600 Sportbike? A 100+ HP bike is not a learners machine by any strech of the imagination!


I was using CC not HP and I agree with you that 100+HP is way to much. Sure CC isn't the best messurement but it's still a good ball park. And I'd personally recommending not going much more then the low end of my sugestion. 400 cc is managable but still more then enough to get you killed if you really want to do something stupid.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheKisho /img/forum/go_quote.gif
don't get a bike more powerful then you can handle (stay away from the sport bikes (you can have one later once you've improved your skills (when your ready))) [400-650cc should be more then enough to learn with and enjoy fully] You'll suck for a while but you'll get better.



Quote:

Originally Posted by Spynxxx /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Rear braking as a primary means of slowing? Ludicrous!


I never recommend using only the rear brake, I recommend using both brakes, at all times. Just not only using front brake and not using your rear brake at all.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheKisho /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Best to use both brakes simultaneously, smoothly, and progressively.



Quote:

Originally Posted by Spynxxx /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Lastly and perhaps most important, enjoy yourself. Motorcycles are every bit as engaging a hobby as there is, the freedom and limitless possibilities for seeing as well as feeling the road addictive and not easly given up once you're hooked. Good luck and happy trails to you.


I can't agree more with this statement.


What I learned has kept me safe and alive up to now and I'm not going to question it. I just hope whatever training Uncle Erik receives will keep him equally as safe and out of harms way.
 
Nov 29, 2009 at 8:51 AM Post #23 of 39
Quote:

Originally Posted by TheKisho /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Maybe so, but some how it has happened at least once (to this one person I know). Circumstances must of been just right (once in a life time). In life some things happen how people don't think even could happen. This was a long time ago on an older bike too so it could of been resolved.


So list the other one. I have never seen this nor has it been born out from thousands of high speed wrecks. While I don't know the circumstances of what happened to the person you know, I would be confident in saying the finger injury was due to other factors in that person's wreck.

Let me educate you as to why a four finger grab is not a good idea on sport bikes. The braking power of your typical sport bike is tremendous. So much so that stunters use this to their advantage when they do a trick called a stoppie/endo. If you use a four finger grab, you just made it harder on yourself to modulate the use of the front brake. Heck, some riders some times use only a single finger to get an even better finesse of the front brake.

Quote:

Maybe the MSF class doesn't but the equivalent course I've took (since MSF is American only) has you for a little while (10-20mins) on the second full day get accustom to how a passenger effects your control of the bike so if you so choose to take a passenger later on you won't be caught off guard by the changes and affects. This course/class is highly regarded in Ontario as one of the best motorcycle training courses you can take in Ontario if not Canada [Motorcycle Driver Training course offered at Conestoga College, and it is a Canada Safety Council (CSC) Motorcycle training course]. I live by what I learned there, it's saved my butt on many occasions and I'm not going to disregard it now. If your right then something bad should happen to me in the future due to my 'wrong' 'missinformed' knowledge of motorcycle safety.


Quote:

I never recommend using only the rear brake, I recommend using both brakes, at all times. Just not only using front brake and not using your rear brake at all.


You go ahead and use both brakes in a corner and see where that gets you. Now before you spout off the dribble of never braking in a turn, you'll never know what you'll encounter in a corner which would require you to use your brake.

I never said taking the course is a bad idea. But the class (at least the MSF) does not teach you how to handle the bike at the extreme of its limits. You'll never get this from a course focusing on low speed maneuvers riding around in a parking lot.

Quote:

I don't ride track, true. It's not my thing. I do like a bit of speed and corners but still track is boring. I ride to enjoy the scenery and adventure rather then how fast can I complete this track or trip. Sure a corner is a corner and a straight is a straight. And a track may be a more ideal for riding as it a much more well cared for surface.

How fast do you go? May play a factor in your braking strategy, I don't know. And is the main problem they worry about is loss of traction in the corners and the back tired slipping out by using the rear brake.


Spoken just like someone who has never been on the track and is probably too scared to even set foot on one. And way to go with another ignorant comment. So all track riders don't ride just to enjoy the cruise on the street. Well, you're wrong. There are those of us who do just cruise and enjoy the ride. I've been on numerous beginner friendly group rides where we just put along at an average speed of about 50 MPH. But we track riders are smart of enough to get our adrenaline rush on the track where riding 10/10ths is appropriate and not on the street.

The skills used on the track are still every bit as applicable on the street. How you apply those skills differ some times but it's the same skills.

Quote:

I just hope whatever training Uncle Erik receives will keep him equally as safe and out of harms way.


This is the only intelligent thing you've said that I can agree with.
 
Nov 29, 2009 at 9:10 AM Post #24 of 39
Quote:

Originally Posted by TheKisho /img/forum/go_quote.gif
How fast do you go? May play a factor in your braking strategy, I don't know. And is the main problem they worry about is loss of traction in the corners and the back tired slipping out by using the rear brake.


Forgot to address this a little more than I did.

So being that you have never been on the track, you can speak about what track riders worry about. That's some great logic there.

To inform you a bit more. Many track riders spin up the rear tire a bit so they can get the front pointed into the corner a bit more. It's a technique that helps steer the bike in a corner.
 
Nov 30, 2009 at 8:25 PM Post #25 of 39
Hi Uncle Erik,

Just to chime in on the brake discussion, here's my take: your bike has both front and rear brakes for a reason. There's no rule that says only use this one or that one, because it depends on the situation. For slow speed maneuvering, ride the clutch and rear brake (you'll do a lot of that in the MSF course). It gives you stability and fine speed control.

On the other hand, for a quick stop on a good surface, there's little use in the back brake. That's because as you get on the front brake, the weight of the bike shifts onto the front wheel. Less and less weight on the rear wheel means less and less traction for braking. If you think about it, under maximum stopping power, again on a good surface, the back wheel will not have any weight on it at all. Picture a "stoppie", where the back of the bike lifts right off the ground, and you'll get a sense of why the rear brake doesn't do that much in a quick stop situation.

As for advice for the course, mine would be to be aggressive in learning all you can. Practice those things that give you trouble over and over. Don't be afraid to be first off the line on new skills, and be sure to ask your instructors about anything you're wondering.

You might also want to hold off buying a bike until you're done the course, since the course might give you a sense of what you want in a bike. You can chat about that with your instructure during the breaks, as well.

I ride a Versys, which has a 650 cc parallel twin engine, but detuned a bit for more torque at low- and mid-RPM ranges. It might be considered a bit of an advanced bike for a starter, but it's a pleasure to ride and definitely more forgiving than a sport with a similar sized engine. If you found yourself to be a competent rider at your MSF course, I wouldn't think that such a bike would be beyond your abilities.

Anyways, have a great time. The MSF course is just a great weekend where you get to mess around on little bikes. Don't worry about the test at the end - it's just more of what you'll do over and over during the two days.
 
Dec 1, 2009 at 6:02 AM Post #26 of 39
Hi Uncle Erik, I was driving home last Tuesday, it was about 9:20PM.

A bunch of cars were stopped in the middle of the freeway. I slowly drove around them and then I saw a guy in a black leather jacket laying face down with about 5 guys standing around him.

I didn't know exactly what happened but later about 200 feet away I saw a motorcycle with the front wheel missing.

It was cold and it was dark and I don't know if he hit a car or the wheel just fell off. This was right after the accident and the ambulance or police haven't arrived yet.

It's a sad way to go, but if you want to ride a bike anyways. Try to ride in the daytime, use the motorcycle for a weekend vehicle instead of a daily commuter. Try to ride with buddies so that you are more visible to other drivers.

I used to have a motorcycle, but I want to live a long and injury free life. I worked hard to get to this point in my life and I don't want to take any unnecessary risk. I figure the closest thing I will get to riding a motorcycle would be a dirt motorcycle so I don't have to drive with cars. Or a convertible car.

Anyways, you seem like a nice guy and always give people good advise here.
I am trying to return the favor.
 
Dec 1, 2009 at 7:59 AM Post #27 of 39
Welcome to the "fellowship," Uncle Erik!
biggrin.gif
Though--you can already see there's a certain amount of dissension in any "family."
wink.gif


I've ridden for over 15 years. Daily. My bike has been my main form of transportation nearly year-round (what little snow we get in Southern Idaho doesn't stay on the streets that long). I've only dropped my bike twice, and that was when I was a novice and still learning on a Honda 200, fortunately both were minor instances for both me and the bike.

I don't have all the "track skills" some of these guys have. Any course you take will be of benefit. I've always wanted to do an advanced MSF or track school--but time and money always seems a problem and it also seems a little awkward doing a track day on a vintage bike. What I do have is just a lot of real-world on-the-street experience.

You're a smart guy, and you obviously have thought this through. I have no doubt you'll be successful and have a lot of fun. I'll try and be brief:

1.) Regarding braking, whether you use 2 fingers or 4 (I "cover" the brake with two when I sense a potential sticky situation coming on). Practice braking fast every chance you get (this means every stop sign you come to when there's not a lot of traffic around). I locked the rear a number of times when I started, and it's not fun. You will stop faster if you can effectively operate *both* brakes with neither wheel slipping--and that means getting the front/rear ratio just right. Practice braking with just the front first (you'll need to work up to quicker and quicker stops), then add in the rear gradually each time you brake. It won't be very much, but just a hair can help in a straight-line stop.

2.) Learn to effectively countersteer early on. It seems counter-intuitive but what you're effectively doing by pushing the bars in the opposite direction you would think is forcing the bike off it's center-of-gravity into a lean towards the direction you want to go. A very good way to change direction (even on a big bike) in a hurry. I expect a lot of the midlife-crisis-newbie-cruiser-crowd you read about crashing into trees on the weekend never learn this skill. Or number 1, above...Or number 3, below.
rolleyes.gif


3.) Even though he didn't have it fastened correctly, a helmet saved my roommate's life at one point. If he did have it on correctly, he probably could've walked away from the accident (and saved himself and us the scary couple days in intensive care). Good Snell or DOT full-face that fits snug and comfortable. 'Nuff said.

4.) x2 all the gear comments on here.

5.) I don't drink now because I work on a Christian College, but even when I did, I didn't *touch* the stuff if I knew I was going to ride the bike. Riding a motorcycle requires a much higher level of motor skills, decision-making, and involvement than driving a car.

Quote:

Lastly and perhaps most important, enjoy yourself. Motorcycles are every bit as engaging a hobby as there is, the freedom and limitless possibilities for seeing as well as feeling the road addictive and not easly given up once you're hooked. Good luck and happy trails to you


x 5 or 6.
biggrin.gif
 
Dec 1, 2009 at 1:15 PM Post #28 of 39
I re-quoted myself to make sure people remember what I had originally said.

Quote:

Originally Posted by zx10guy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
And one last thing, don't over use your rear brake. If anything, don't even use it. I've seen too many people get into trouble with the rear brake resulting in crashes. 70-80% of your braking power comes from the front brake. I only use the rear brake if I have to come to a stop in a short distance fast while going straight. On my new Ducati 848, I have only used my rear brake one or two times...just to confirm the thing works. Other than that I don't even remember it's there.


My position wasn't never ever use the rear brake but to be cautious of when you do and only when you stop in a straight line.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmoffatt /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Just to chime in on the brake discussion, here's my take: your bike has both front and rear brakes for a reason. There's no rule that says only use this one or that one, because it depends on the situation. For slow speed maneuvering, ride the clutch and rear brake (you'll do a lot of that in the MSF course). It gives you stability and fine speed control.

On the other hand, for a quick stop on a good surface, there's little use in the back brake. That's because as you get on the front brake, the weight of the bike shifts onto the front wheel. Less and less weight on the rear wheel means less and less traction for braking. If you think about it, under maximum stopping power, again on a good surface, the back wheel will not have any weight on it at all. Picture a "stoppie", where the back of the bike lifts right off the ground, and you'll get a sense of why the rear brake doesn't do that much in a quick stop situation.



Quote:

Originally Posted by Zaubertuba /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I don't have all the "track skills" some of these guys have. Any course you take will be of benefit. I've always wanted to do an advanced MSF or track school--but time and money always seems a problem and it also seems a little awkward doing a track day on a vintage bike. What I do have is just a lot of real-world on-the-street experience.

You're a smart guy, and you obviously have thought this through. I have no doubt you'll be successful and have a lot of fun. I'll try and be brief:

1.) Regarding braking, whether you use 2 fingers or 4 (I "cover" the brake with two when I sense a potential sticky situation coming on). Practice braking fast every chance you get (this means every stop sign you come to when there's not a lot of traffic around). I locked the rear a number of times when I started, and it's not fun. You will stop faster if you can effectively operate *both* brakes with neither wheel slipping--and that means getting the front/rear ratio just right. Practice braking with just the front first (you'll need to work up to quicker and quicker stops), then add in the rear gradually each time you brake. It won't be very much, but just a hair can help in a straight-line stop.



So quoting the others which have provided better input, I agree with practicing the use of the rear brake. BUT ONLY APPLYING THE REAR BRAKE AFTER THE FRONT IN A PROGRESSIVE MANNER. The thing is, the front brake can stop the bike in almost all situations alone. This was clear to me when I did the braking bike at the track school. Most people don't bother understanding how much braking power there is from the front and how to safely brake with the front to the edge of lockup (even at lock up.) THE REAR BRAKE SHOULD BE CONSIDERED SUPPLEMENTAL BRAKING AND NOT A PRIMARY MEANS OF STOPPING THE BIKE. The issue I have with using both simultaneously is when things get hairy. In a panic situation, you cannot tell me that a person is going to apply both brakes in the right proportions at the same time. This is where I have the biggest issue of saying use both brakes all the time simultaneously. And as I have stated, you're asking for it if you use your rear brake in corners. It's no coincidence that front brake systems get so much attention from manufacturers. Take a look at the front brake of the latest sport bikes. Sport bikes by nature are about performance and braking performance is one of those elements. You have large rotors which provide a large amount of swept area. You have calipers with multi-piston setups. The emphasis here is you have to stop equally as fast as being able to hit triple digit speeds and to be able to do so repeatedly without fading. Now compare the front brake to the rear. The rear brakes have smaller rotors and smaller calipers...many times with only a single piston.

As far as additional training is concerned, you'll be surprised how you'll come up with the money if you view training as some sort of mod, upgrade for the bike or even a new fancy riding jacket. There are ways to get additional training and many times for a cost not requiring an arm and a leg. The ERC class the last I checked was $150 or so. Not a huge sum of money when you're into a recreational hobby such as this. Other options are classes that are not full up track oriented but are a bridge between the MSF low speed training and the higher on track speeds. One such class is Lee Park's Total Control classes. These are done in larger parking lots at higher speeds than the MSF. You use your own bike and the skills are a bridge between the MSF and track riding. If I recall correctly, the classes are around $300. Then you have track schools. Many require you to bring your own bike. Some don't. The school I used, California Superbike School, can rent you their own track bike from their fleet. They can even rent you gear to use while at the track. All you have to do is bring yourself. The bike in the picture of me at the track is their bike I used for the two day camp. Also, having a vintage bike at a track day is not that far out of place. There are organized track day events where only vintage bikes run around the track.
 
Dec 1, 2009 at 1:36 PM Post #29 of 39
I support what zx10guy say; primarily use the front brake, then supplement with the rear brake if needed.
My motorcycle have a combined braking system and ABS, but I am still careful about not applying to much rear brake. You certainly do not want it to block over longer time, especially when leaning over.

Ride safely!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top