[1967cutlass]

sin wave= not square wave...

 

[reeseboisse]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1967cutlass sin wave= not square wave...

Ok then, I just made one and looked at the spectral display, and I see that you are very right. Although, I still don't see why it would immediately destroy a pair of headphones when played at listening volume.

EDIT: Never mind, I was looking at a square sine, not a square wave.

 

[cpw]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BowerR64 Is that ear face?

No, I think it's Light Bulb Face.

Maybe it's an idea?

 

[JeffL]

Since nobody has suggested it, what ]|[ GorE needs is a headphone amp.

I'm sure the 3 watt amplifier in the computer speakers is the crappiest of crappy beyond craptacular.

Get a CMOY, and I'm sure the sound would further improve.

 

[Jahn]

i guess it's time to tell my story again about playing a bassman 100 guitar amp - and plugging it into a factory sony can from the speaker out. i was checking my guitar out when those cans literally had a firey meltdown. not pretty.

so dont do it.

 

[audiopile]

If you look at most older - quality - integrated amps/receivers headphone sockets you'll see that they are run off the amp outputs - but each channel has reasonably heavy duty series resistors in line with the amp channel outputs. These are sometimes as small as 1Watt - usually around 5watt . Basically these had several functions: 1.) The volume controls for most affordable consumer electronics were selected for max. channel to channel linearity ( channel matched) over that part of their rotation that was most useful. Most people don't critically listen with the volume almost all the way down and most don't use it wide open ( most amps will clip their balls off at somewher between 11:00 and 1:00 in terms of rotation.) They literally will not get louder past this point - but will really really begin to distort. 2.) I was always taught that these resistors helped to cut some of the hissing sound that was part of the analog chain - I'll pass this on - but I'm not sure I buy it.3.) They offered some safety margin in terms of attenuating the results of switching transients showing up full power into the headphones. 4.) A lot of early transistor amps where ( to be charitable about it) somewhat lacking in low power resolution. The series resistor would force these amps into a slightly higher power operating mode where they might sound better???
5.) Finally and most importantly - it gave you a volume controll that was usefull in terms of slide or rotation. The problem with hooking up directly to the speaker outputs is that you'll be barely able to turn the amp on and you'll be at max volume for the headphones.
BTW - QED used to make a very nice passive- simple and cheap - headphone box that could be hooked up to almost any power amp at it's
output. This does have some series resistors in it.
Series resistors certainly are not the ideal solution - the odd thing is they work better than they should and are dirt cheap. Remember a couple of things:
A.) As always the source or feed impedance should be equal to or lower than whatever headphone ( or other device) you are driving.
B.) Be careful anytime you hook up a common ground device ( as in headphone jack) to a amplifier or amplifiers. Mis-matches can be spectacular and quite expensive. Be VERY carefull before trying this on a mono amp - seperate chasis set up.

 

[]|[ GorE]

I think that because of my bravado imay have increased the excursion of the Koss driver ! It actually hits the outer driver cover !

But it sounds fine .
And the Panny reciever outputs 58Watts at 0.2% THD at 6 Ohm impendance.

Which brings me to my another question..my can has an inline volume control which i am not sure if i should use of it degrades the sound quality.Since it is potentiometer i wonder if I can adjust it so that they provide a resistance of 75Ohms which i have heard results in much tighter bass and fall of the muddy bass(which i am controlling presently with notches at 200 and 350Hz on my hardware Pioneer EQ).

CHEERS!