[HumanMedia]

I found that I preferred the HMS at 15v over 14v even though the latter was accomplished via an additional stage of regulation.

It is surprising as its all regulated down inside the HMS to a lower voltage again. However a couple of people over at AS forum have reported exactly the same thing - that 15V sounded better than 12V on the same supply.

 

[edwardsean]

When you use the battery, you just pull the power plug out of the back and then plug back in when done. Nothing to it.

I thought about getting Wave cables after my experiments with trying the battery but I can’t justify the cost. Battery is simple enough and the improvement is subtle. Plus I could easily live with the stock power supply. You can hear the changes when switching but your brain quickly adjusts and the mscaler already sounds wonderful with stock.

I just wanted to see what all this RFI talk was all about. I think it’s overblown. I’m sure it will said because I haven’t tried the Wave cables or the Opto DX, but the battery was a nice cheaper way to get an idea and I think I’m good with my setup.

I have a battery pack plugged into a power strip with a switch. If I switch off is that the same as unplugging since it breaks the circuit, or doe the contact still matter?

 

[Progisus]

I have a battery pack plugged into a power strip with a switch. If I switch off is that the same as unplugging since it breaks the circuit, or doe the contact still matter?

A switch on a powerbar usually only breaks the line and not the neutral or the ground. I feel the battery pack needs to be unplugged to ensure disconnection of the ground plane.

 

[naynay]

Thanks for the inspiration. PLEASE share what components you used. There is surprisingly little DIY talk here and there should be more especially around ferrited cables, which really are not too hard to make. Anyone who has done their own please chime in and say what Ferrites, cables and BNC connectors work best for them especially if they have used different materials and compared.

People who don’t have the skills or inclination can just buy pre made cables or do with the stock cables but there should be a wealth of empirical findings here for those who simply want make a connecting cable for themselves.

Hi,
I will PM you with all the links to the suppliers for parts.I found these to be the cheapest at the time of looking.

 

[6RS]

Thanks for the inspiration. PLEASE share what components you used. There is surprisingly little DIY talk here and there should be more especially around ferrited cables, which really are not too hard to make. Anyone who has done their own please chime in and say what Ferrites, cables and BNC connectors work best for them especially if they have used different materials and compared.

People who don’t have the skills or inclination can just buy pre made cables or do with the stock cables but there should be a wealth of empirical findings here for those who simply want make a connecting cable for themselves.

Hi, I used
- 1M Germany YARBO SP-PSC-75O Hi-End 75Ω Pure silver coaxial digital audio cable, OD 7mm
- Nitrile 7mm ID x 3mm C/S O Ring. 7x3
- Würth Elektronik 74270045 Ferrites. These ferrites are much more compact compared to the equivalent ones that fit a 8 mm cable (eg the Oyaide silver cable), which makes the cable less heavy and bulky
- Neutrik 734219 BNC KABELSTECKER 75 OHM NBNC75BTU11
My impression is that the Neutrik, which cost a fraction of the Oyaide silver plugs, have the superior design of the two - did not compare the sound though.

 

[JTbbb]

Have any folks here tried the mcru linear power supply into the MScaler? The version for the Qutest seems to be well regarded.

 

[AndrewOld]

A switch on a powerbar usually only breaks the line and not the neutral or the ground. I feel the battery pack needs to be unplugged to ensure disconnection of the ground plane.

I agree. Mechanical disconnection guarantees no loops, or even any capacitive coupling across switch contacts. Either pull the charger plug out from the mains, or pull the dc lead out from the charger. The latter is easiest for me. But the M Scaler will work while the charger is charging, so it’s possibly most convenient to leave it connected and then disconnect it when you are listening seriously and connect back up again when you are done. That way the USB input is always functioning, so your music player won’t lose connection, and your M Scaler will keep its settings.

 

[Triode User]

Have any folks here tried the mcru linear power supply into the MScaler? The version for the Qutest seems to be well regarded.

I agree about the MCRU being good with the Qutest and I liked what their power supply did with the Mscaler. The MCRU power supply for the Mscaler costs more than their one for the Qutest because of higher current demands. A battery for the Qutest is anther good option if you are prepared to charge it every day but even so many of us have found that a battery is not the ultimate sound and is often improved by adding a low noise two stage regulator to it.

 

[feddar]

I just got a HMS and TT2 to audition, and am wondering about the power button on the HMS. From what I’ve read, there is no power button. You just leave it on all the time. Does this cause any concern to anyone? Also, should I be using some sort of surge protector or power supply to protect the units? Thank you very much, and enjoying the audition greatly.

 

[JTbbb]

I just got a HMS and TT2 to audition, and am wondering about the power button on the HMS. From what I’ve read, there is no power button. You just leave it on all the time. Does this cause any concern to anyone? Also, should I be using some sort of surge protector or power supply to protect the units? Thank you very much, and enjoying the audition greatly.

When you stop feeding music files to the HMS it will go to standby after several minutes, with just the third ball from the left showing white.

 

[HughF]

I just got a HMS and TT2 to audition, and am wondering about the power button on the HMS. From what I’ve read, there is no power button. You just leave it on all the time. Does this cause any concern to anyone? Also, should I be using some sort of surge protector or power supply to protect the units? Thank you very much, and enjoying the audition greatly.

If the power used by the HMS in standby is not too high (> 1 Watt? I don't know, sorry) I'd be fine with that.

I would definitely use a mains protection product. I use a Russ Andrews MegaClamp to protect my whole system but prefer to remove it from the mains block when listening. Cheaper protection is available and may be just as good for all I know - I use a Tacima unit to protect TV stuff in another room. If there's thunder really close by I just unplug the system from the mains completely.
HTH,
Hugh

 

[dac64]

I just got a HMS and TT2 to audition, and am wondering about the power button on the HMS. From what I’ve read, there is no power button. You just leave it on all the time. Does this cause any concern to anyone? Also, should I be using some sort of surge protector or power supply to protect the units? Thank you very much, and enjoying the audition greatly.

I've a HMS coming to a year now, and leave it on 24/7.

It's much cooler in standby mode, not a concern. Rod said the HMS will cut off the power if the temperature goes beyond 85c (bottom plate) to protect humans' hand.

 

[iamoneagain]

I’ve been using the Poweradd pro 5 at 16v with the mscaler for past week and have had no issues. I found that prior to the Poweradd, I didn’t like the HF filter turned off on the Dave. The highs were sometime a little harsh on some songs and overall sound was thinner. But now using the Poweradd, HF off sounds perfect. Very transparent and still has the weight. Seems perfectly balanced.

 

[feddar]

Would there be anything wrong with unplugging the HMS and TT2 when they are not in use?

 

[F208Frank]

Would there be anything wrong with unplugging the HMS and TT2 when they are not in use?

No but not really needed as it can be on 24/7 with one light on (third from the left side)

^for m scaler wise, TT I do not own