[HughF]

So I decided to give the Poweradd a shot. I’m running it at 16v based on what I’ve read in previous posts. When I first hooked up and compared to stock power supply, there was a subtle difference. Definitely not as big of difference as switching to Danacable on my Utopia. But then after listening more, music is little more dynamic and a organic sounding. I guess can say more liquid sounding and engaging.
Snipped...

I thought FIFTEEN Volts was the safe maximum for M Scaler or TT 2? Suggest you check this out ASAP.
HTH
Hugh

 

[iamoneagain]

I thought FIFTEEN Volts was the safe maximum for M Scaler or TT 2? Suggest you check this out ASAP.
HTH
Hugh

I switched down to 12v and sounds the same so I’ll leave at that until someone can confirm 16v is safe or not.

I found the answer myself.

18v and above will destroy Hugo M scaler's protection diode, rendering the unit unworkable. Since a PSU has been used that is not the one included, your warranty on the protection diode repair would be void too. The Hugo M scaler will work perfectly fine from a battery power bank set to 9 or 12v - all input voltages are converted internally to 5v, so the actual voltage does not affect the sound quality. The new Poweradd pilot pro5 looks fine, but that model exceeds 100W/h so don't get it for flights. They do a smaller capacity version which is 99W/h but so far is only available on the German Amazon website.

 

[AndrewOld]

So I decided to give the Poweradd a shot. I’m running it at 16v based on what I’ve read in previous posts. When I first hooked up and compared to stock power supply, there was a subtle difference. Definitely not as big of difference as switching to Danacable on my Utopia. But then after listening more, music is little more dynamic and a organic sounding. I guess can say more liquid sounding and engaging.

Amazon had $10 off coupon, so not a bad investment for under $100 and can also use as battery backup charger for all other electronics.

Rob recommends 12V. You can blow the protection diode if you go over 15V. Here is his post:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/cho...official-thread.869417/page-143#post-14538242

 

[Triode User]

I switched down to 12v and sounds the same so I’ll leave at that until someone can confirm 16v is safe or not.

I have had PowerAdd batteries outputting close to 17v on the 16v setting.

 

[AndrewOld]

I have had PowerAdd batteries outputting close to 17v on the 16v setting.

I measured mine and it’s spot on. Then again, you are selling a product which gives a worse performance at 15 times the price so you just might have a vested interest in dissing the Poweradd product.

 

[naynay]

I read a customers comment a few posts back from Canada.I'm not surprised he gets them in the post ASAP at them prices making a killing.

 

[STR-1]

I measured mine and it’s spot on. Then again, you are selling a product which gives a worse performance at 15 times the price so you just might have a vested interest in dissing the Poweradd product.

I have three Poweradd Pilot Pro 2 battery packs, and they range from 16.57V-16.75V output at the 16v setting.

I also have three of the more recent and larger capacity Pilot Pro 5 packs, and the output from these is more accurate at between 16.05v-16.11v.

I have the feeling the readings taken by @Triode User were with the earlier PP2 packs, which were the ones Rob Watts first talked about. His readings are roughly consistent with mine for that model.

 

[AndrewOld]

I have three Poweradd Pilot Pro 2 battery packs, and they range from 16.57V-16.75V output at the 16v setting.

I also have three of the more recent and larger capacity Pilot Pro 5 packs, and the output from these is more accurate at between 16.05v-16.11v.

I have the feeling the readings taken by @Triode User were with the earlier PP2 packs, which were the ones Rob Watts first talked about. His readings are roughly consistent with mine for that model.

So what? Rob advises using them at the 12V setting which is way inside the limit. It doesn’t matter if its 12V, 12.34V or whatever, there is a huge margin for variation as the limit on the M Scaler Is 15V. Obviously if you are selling an arguably inferior solution at 15 times the price there are reasons why you might wish to sow seeds of doubt. If anyone is truly worried they can buy a modest voltmeter like this for £15 and still be £1000 or more better off, and have a better result.

 

[GreenBow]

So what? Rob advises using them at the 12V setting which is way inside the limit. It doesn’t matter if its 12V, 12.34V or whatever, there is a huge margin for variation as the limit on the M Scaler Is 15V. Obviously if you are selling an arguably inferior solution at 15 times the price there are reasons why you might wish to sow seeds of doubt. If anyone is truly worried they can buy a modest voltmeter like this for £15 and still be £1000 or more better off, and have a better result.

Yeah I thought the M-Scaler was 15V. Or even 16V but not sure. However it was advised to use only the Chord charger because of the over-voltage protection. 16.75v would be too hot.

 

[GreenBow]

I still have not tried the M-Scaler. Must get around to a demo for it.

Having said that though. I just recently bought the electrostatic Shure KSE1200. Even on the Hugo 2 - oh my goodness. I never felt the need for the M-Scaler myself, and keep saying I love my DACs as they are. Right now I have the KSE1200 on my TT2.

Since I have been looking at headphones for some time, I might keep going in that direction. Am open to full size electrostatics also now. Finding the right ones is tricky though, because reviews are few and far between.


Not at least demo-ing/hearing the M-Scaler might not be a good plan though.

 

[iamoneagain]

So what? Rob advises using them at the 12V setting which is way inside the limit. It doesn’t matter if its 12V, 12.34V or whatever, there is a huge margin for variation as the limit on the M Scaler Is 15V. Obviously if you are selling an arguably inferior solution at 15 times the price there are reasons why you might wish to sow seeds of doubt. If anyone is truly worried they can buy a modest voltmeter like this for £15 and still be £1000 or more better off, and have a better result.

Yes, Rob mentioned 12v or even as low a 9v since it gets lowered to 5v inside. He also mentioned higher volts should not have any effect on the sound quality but I’m finding that untrue in my setup.

At 16v the highs seem louder and think everything else might be slightly louder too. At 12v, I can turn up the volume compared to 16v or the stock price over supply. With my setup, Utopia’s, Dave, mscaler, the sound is warmer and highs less pronounced at 12v. And think I prefer this because music is more relaxed and bass and texture more noticeable. At 16v music is more exciting but also more fatiguing. The difference is subtle but it’s there.

 

[STR-1]

Yeah I thought the M-Scaler was 15V. Or even 16V but not sure. However it was advised to use only the Chord charger because of the over-voltage protection. 16.75v would be too hot.

You should not power the M Scaler at 16v. It should be 15v max. My post was to reinforce the message that some models of the Poweradd are over-delivering at stated voltages, and that this should be borne in mind by those who think they are taking only a marginal risk in powering the M Scaler at 16v with a PP pack.

That said, you can safely, and to even better performance levels, use the Pilot Pro packs at 16v with the M Scaler if used with one of these double-regulated power supplies - https://www.ldovr.com/product-p/dxp-1a5dsc.htm. Ordering one of these units with pre-regulation set at 15v and output regulation set to either 14v or 13.5v (which is available but not currently showing as an option on the website), you would feed with 16v via a dc cable and have a very clean and very tightly regulated 14v or 13.5v feed into the M Scaler via another dc cable (not supplied). These units are becoming increasingly popular since getting the seal of approval from some highly-respected forum members, for example - https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/...dio-streaming/?do=findComment&comment=1039386 Of course, you would probably void your warranty using one of these units (if you haven’t already done so using a Pilot Pro).

 

[edwardsean]

Since we're discussing battery packs, is there anything special about PowerAdd in particular. I have two of them, but I just ordered Krisdonia packs. They are a little more compact, the display is on the side which is better for stacking, and the aesthetic fits the whole Sonore, Uptone, case design.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PQBRJV/

Do you think I will lose any performance going from one to the other in equivalent models? I made sure the Pilot Pro models I have don't have any logic processing for PD or QC, but Krisdonia only comes with QC. I don't know how much noise that might add if anything significant.

 

[AxelCloris]

We've removed some posts that were going off-topic from the M Scaler from the thread. Thank you to everyone who helped keep the thread on-track, we appreciate it.

 

[HumanMedia]

I have stated a matter of fact. Rob has said that the Poweradd solution is more effective at reducing RF than the ferrited cable solution.

I‘ve read this thread from the very beginning and I think some things might be being taken out of context.

There is noise generated by the MScaler itself which is attenuated internally but some is still transmitted over the BNC connection.

Using grounded power supplies can make this worse as unattenuated RFI can bypass the BNC and also enter the DAC via ground, and then possibly even exit the DAC and loop back to the MScaler as well. This is the worst scenario of all.

A ground lifted supply, like the stock supply, can help dampen these loops as they will be attenuatuated by a longer high impedance loop via neutral. A battery Power supply detached from its charger will prevent these loops altogether, avoiding the worst case situation.

But apart from avoiding loops, power supplies won’t do anything for the more limited RFI Generated by the MScaler itself and transmitted directly via the BNC.

At least that’s what I have taken from the multiple discussions about this issue.
So if I have interpreted it correctly, ferrited cables still help with the BNC transmitted noise. That isn’t to say that non-DIY BNC options are not grossly over priced. But let’s not get that confused with helpful safety advice of avoiding putting too much voltage into your loved devices when exploring battery power supply options.