[tomjonesrocks]

I must be fundamentally missing something here. I'm spending so much time trying to get this one ground connection with not so much as a hint of success I'm wondering if my equipment or something isn't up to the task.

I'm using Lead Free Rosin Core Silver Bearing Solder and a as-clean-as-it-is-going-to-get-cleaning-with-a-damp-sponge (as well as a bit old) $8.99 15-Watt Soldering Iron with Grounded Tip Soldering Iron from Radio Shack. Are most of you using some dramatically different equipment? This connection just won't stick for me. I'm by no means a pro solderer, but this ground connection seems to be solder kryptonite.

Thanks again,

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Monkey /img/forum/go_quote.gif I've had that happen. Maybe try the following: 1) Make sure the soldering iron is clean, turn it up a bit, and tin it. 2) Tin the ground wires, then solder to ground lug.

 

[Juniper]

I just finished a cable per these instructions and am getting some crosstalk. The left bleeds a little into the right but the right will isolate if i mute the left... any ideas?

 

[UglyJoe]

What is the proper way to twist two wires together to make them look nice and maintain the twist well?

I've got some of the 20awg Vampire wire from Percy audio and I'm going to make a Ipod LOD to RCA with it. I was planning on using the 4-wire braid from Braids for the braid from the LOD to the split, then a two wire twist to the RCA's, similar to a cable that ALO sells. However, it looks like the 2-wire twist would just unravel... how is this stopped from happening?

 

[Hayduke]

Quote:

Originally Posted by UglyJoe /img/forum/go_quote.gif What is the proper way to twist two wires together to make them look nice and maintain the twist well? I've got some of the 20awg Vampire wire from Percy audio and I'm going to make a Ipod LOD to RCA with it. I was planning on using the 4-wire braid from Braids for the braid from the LOD to the split, then a two wire twist to the RCA's, similar to a cable that ALO sells. However, it looks like the 2-wire twist would just unravel... how is this stopped from happening?

When you secure the ends it shouldn't untwist. You do need to actually get some twist into the wire. Not a lot

 

[UglyJoe]

So what is the best way to do this? Is it best to braid the IC the way you want it then terminate it, or should I terminate one end (say at the LOD), braid, then terminate? And when doing the twist is it simply twisting both at the same time, or one around the other (I'm sure it's the former, but asking for my own sanity)? How tightly should I twist it?

 

[Pars]

For two wires, I normally chuck them up in a drill, and keeping the two loose ends apart, use that to twist them. Play around with it a bit in terms of how tightly you let it twist them. Works quite well.

 

[UglyJoe]

So in this case would you do that for two sets of wires to about the same length, then start the 4 wire braid from that point?


EDIT: Meh, I'm only going to have about 4-5 inches after the Y split, maybe less. I think I'll just do that by hand. Thanks though.

 

[Hayduke]

Quote:

Originally Posted by UglyJoe /img/forum/go_quote.gif So in this case would you do that for two sets of wires to about the same length, then start the 4 wire braid from that point? EDIT: Meh, I'm only going to have about 4-5 inches after the Y split, maybe less. I think I'll just do that by hand. Thanks though.

braid the 4 wire section first. You have no secured one end. Now twist the 2 pairs and then terminate them. They should hold the twist. What I do is twist it tighter then I want the final result to account for some loosening that will happen.

 

[UglyJoe]

Thanks, Hayduke.

Second question, and really just looking for aesthetic opinions here: I am going to be terminating the cable with Vampire 800C RCAs. The twisted pair is obviously going to look a little silly and probably be pretty wobbly entering the RCAs. I was considering using some black heatshrink around the two wires where they enter the plugs to bulk them up a bit and give some strain relief, and then some clear heatshrink around the outside of the RCA to about a .5 cm beyond where the black heat shrink ends. Does this sound like a good approach? Also, I have two options for the black heatshrink. I have some nicer looking heatshrink that has glue on the inside. It will look cleaner I think, but will be stiff and obviously not great strain relief. The other black heatshink is normal, but has some lettering on the outside that displeases me aesthetically. If I use the former, will the added clear heat shrink give enough strain relief that I don't need to worry about it, or would it be better to use the more flexible black heatshrink as well?

 

[Juniper]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juniper /img/forum/go_quote.gif I just finished a cable per these instructions and am getting some crosstalk. The left bleeds a little into the right but the right will isolate if i mute the left... any ideas?

I fixed it, so disregard. Had a stray piece of copper wire touching the metal outer wall of the casing. (weak solder work :/ ) If I can get my camera working I'll post a pic.

 

[Hayduke]

Quote:

Originally Posted by UglyJoe /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks, Hayduke. Second question, and really just looking for aesthetic opinions here: I am going to be terminating the cable with Vampire 800C RCAs. The twisted pair is obviously going to look a little silly and probably be pretty wobbly entering the RCAs. I was considering using some black heatshrink around the two wires where they enter the plugs to bulk them up a bit and give some strain relief, and then some clear heatshrink around the outside of the RCA to about a .5 cm beyond where the black heat shrink ends. Does this sound like a good approach? Also, I have two options for the black heatshrink. I have some nicer looking heatshrink that has glue on the inside. It will look cleaner I think, but will be stiff and obviously not great strain relief. The other black heatshink is normal, but has some lettering on the outside that displeases me aesthetically. If I use the former, will the added clear heat shrink give enough strain relief that I don't need to worry about it, or would it be better to use the more flexible black heatshrink as well?

Any of those should work. What about putting clear all the way to the split, and small piece of black near the connector to help fill it out? This would also eliminate your concern about the wires unraveling. Make sure you still twist them. You want to minimize that EMI

What are your plans for the Y?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juniper /img/forum/go_quote.gif I fixed it, so disregard. Had a stray piece of copper wire touching the metal outer wall of the casing. (weak solder work :/ ) If I can get my camera working I'll post a pic.

Glad you figured it out. I think most of the time when you figure out what is wrong in DIY, it's a head smacker hehe

 

[UglyJoe]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hayduke /img/forum/go_quote.gif Any of those should work. What about putting clear all the way to the split, and small piece of black near the connector to help fill it out? This would also eliminate your concern about the wires unraveling. Make sure you still twist them. You want to minimize that EMI What are your plans for the Y?

The clear I have won't shrink down that much; it's 2:1 1/2" heatshrink, I'm pretty sure. Yeah, just checked. so the twist would be loose inside the heatshrink. Plus, I thought that using heatshrink over long distances could cause problems with microphonics/noise?

I actually don't have any plans for the Y. I'm basically trying to make a clone of this, just with a nicer dock connector and Vampire RCA's. So the 4 wire braid just branches into the 2 wire twist over the last 5 inches of the cable or so.

 

[Juniper]

Cable: Canare star quad 12'
Plug: Neutrik NP3X-BAG
Jack: Neutrik NJ3FC6-BAG

Powering Grado SR60 with a SBLive PCI card. Only have to turn it up ~3% more than without the extension cable for the same volume output.

 

[UglyJoe]

Finished!

Thnaks, guys!

 

[XEN]

All this stuff looks great! I'll probably have a go when I have the time