[Hirsch]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Todd R Maybe the Walker stuff is better or different, but probably not (Pierre told me Lloyd stole the idea from him).

Radio Shack has a trace repair pen at $14.95 that lays down a layer of silver. This appears to be similar to the Walker SST and other products of that nature. Odds are that whoever Radio Shack got the idea from may be the actual originator of the "liquid silver" concept.

 

[star882]

A can of compressed air works good to blow out dust, and working the connectors back and forth a few times helps to scrape off the oxide buildup.
I'm sure there are solvents available for cleaning, but in all my experience of working with electronics, I never had to use one.

 

[imported_dom_]

personaly i find metal polish on the contacts (mains cables) till you can see your face on the connectors followed by isopropyl (99.9%) to clean off any residue.

but for audio interconnects which all of mine are plated i use deoxit.

 

[Michael G.]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Todd R I tried the Silclear stuff a couple months back and didn't care for it. It seemed to improve the sound at first, but then a couple days later things just weren't sounding right. My system sounded muddy and confused. Cleaning off the Silclear (quite a job BTW, you need alcohol and lots of scrubbing) and re-treating with the Caig ProGold restored the sound, and it remained sounding good. Maybe the Walker stuff is better or different, but probably not (Pierre told me Lloyd stole the idea from him). Since Mapleshade has 30 day money back period it wouldn't hurt to try it for yourself if you're curious. I like Mapleshade's products for the most part, just not this one.

I'm wondering if maybe you applied too much Silclear? I always try to apply the lightest coating possible. So far, I have not experienced any of the sonic degradations you speak of. But then again, everyone's system is different.

 

[Todd R]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael G. I'm wondering if maybe you applied too much Silclear? I always try to apply the lightest coating possible. So far, I have not experienced any of the sonic degradations you speak of. But then again, everyone's system is different.

I put it on as light as I possibly could.

 

[djbnh]

I swear by the Walker SST - I note I have the regular version, not the Super SST. I haven't noticed any backsliding in sound since I began using SST 1+ years ago. Also, please follow Mr. Walker's application directions carefully. I was originally hesitant about the price, but since a tiny bit goes such a long way, I've been able to give some of it away and still have a huge stash left. I note I use plastic wrap to cover the bottle before capping it.

Also, I like using Caig Deoxit for parts that haven't seen any cleaning for some time. (I used it extensively in reconditioning my dad's Fisher 800-B receiver, and it worked like a charm. Note there are different versions of Deoxit, just pick the application/applicator type that works best for your use.) So, for cruddy stuff, first Deoxit then Walker SST; if the stuff is pretty good, then I first use Caig's ProGold and then the Walker SST. (Re: ProGold, from the Caig site: Quote:

Recommended for critical applications where only slight cleaning action is necessary. If the surface looks clean, applying DeoxIT first is usually not necessary. DeoxIT GOLD is designed to dissolve small amounts of oxidation...NOTE: DeoxIT GOLD is the new name for ProGold. In 2006 the ProGold name will change to DeoxIT GOLD. Part numbers remain the same.

FYI - one of the slickest applications for Walker SST is on your phono cartridge's pins. Please remember there's not a lot of room to work there, so be careful. However, I was amply rewarded for treating my cartridge pins! Also kicks a@@ on tube pins - really brings out a lot of detail in my JD-100 with its Sylvania Gold Label JHS 5751WA tmbs.

 

[hansel_ng]

has anyone tried contact cleaner? would it work well?

 

[bhd812]

Quote:

Originally Posted by djbnh I swear by the Walker SST - I note I have the regular version, not the Super SST. I haven't noticed any backsliding in sound since I began using SST 1+ years ago. Also, please follow Mr. Walker's application directions carefully. I was originally hesitant about the price, but since a tiny bit goes such a long way, I've been able to give some of it away and still have a huge stash left. I note I use plastic wrap to cover the bottle before capping it. Also, I like using Caig Deoxit for parts that haven't seen any cleaning for some time. (I used it extensively in reconditioning my dad's Fisher 800-B receiver, and it worked like a charm. Note there are different versions of Deoxit, just pick the application/applicator type that works best for your use.) So, for cruddy stuff, first Deoxit then Walker SST; if the stuff is pretty good, then I first use Caig's ProGold and then the Walker SST. (Re: ProGold, from the Caig site: FYI - one of the slickest applications for Walker SST is on your phono cartridge's pins. Please remember there's not a lot of room to work there, so be careful. However, I was amply rewarded for treating my cartridge pins! Also kicks a@@ on tube pins - really brings out a lot of detail in my JD-100 with its Sylvania Gold Label JHS 5751WA tmbs.

I believe your the gentlemen who got me on to it...

thanx

 

[dcguy73]

Wow, I've had this stuff forever for cleaning RCA jacks and such...but for some reason, it never occurred to me to use it on the Maha 9-volt battery terminals, which have become corroded and cruddy over time. After scrubbing them with Kontak and then applying DeoxIT, the Mahas are charging again and the grunginess that I was hearing when I used them to power my RSA SR-71 is gone! They just needed a little push to help them come back to life.

 

[Illah]

Yeah this stuff is amazing. I had a bit of an 'oops!' with AC power that left some connectors heavily blackened after being zapped. I thought I'd have to junk them but after a little elbow grease and deoxit they amazingly came back! I was *really* surprised it could clean that off.

--Illah

 

[Old Pa]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Illah I like $19.50 Can any others vouch for this stuff?

We've discussed the CAIG products at length in past threads. As I understand it DeOxit has greater cleaning power and is specifically for heavier corrosion and non-precious metal contact surfaces. ProGold has less cleaning power and more conditioning for precious metal contact surfaces. It's not just getting rid of corrosion and conditioning the metal surfaces for a good mechanical contact, but also the elimination of "micro-arc-ing" that subtly degrades audio reproduction performance. Basically, a good electromechanical contact is an airtight one, so using hospital grade outlets that grip the plug prongs through RCA and binding post connectors that can be tightened all are part of the clean and condition routine.

 

[classicalguy]

I have an amp with steel rca jacks. The cables do not hold tightly - I have to play with the cable or the sound in one speaker goes out. Will this cleaning stuff make the cable to jack connection more reliable? I don't notice any crud built up on the jacks, but they are not shiny. Thanks.

 

[Michael G.]

To "classicalguy": Your RCA jack(s) and/or your cable ends are probably slightly worn and/or out of spec. Conductivity enhancers might help, but the real solution would probably be to buy a new set of interconnects with tighter fitting connectors. While definitely not the creme-de-la-creme of cables, the $10 Radio Shack Gold interconnects are known for having notoriously tight-fitting RCA connectors - so much so that some people complain about them fitting too tightly. But, in your case they might fill the bill perfectly. For a more "upscale" cable, I'd recommend the Mapleshade Audio interconnects which have heavy duty adjustable connectors that you can screw down to get a tight fitting connection on just about any RCA jack.

 

[classicalguy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael G. To "classicalguy": Your RCA jack(s) and/or your cable ends are probably slightly worn and/or out of spec. Conductivity enhancers might help, but the real solution would probably be to buy a new set of interconnects with tighter fitting connectors.

No, cables are new. Jacks are old. The best solution would probably be to solder on some new replacement jacks. Only problem - I don't know how to solder!

 

[djbnh]

classicalguy - Just an idea - You can always use RCAs with male-end locking WBT terminations (Groneberg and other ICs use the WBTs). Will save you from replacing the female RCAs/soldering/etc. Yeah, I know your ICs are new...

Best of luck with your decision making.