Home-Made IEMs
Jun 9, 2011 at 4:25 PM Post #931 of 15,989
dzień dobry piotrus-g, (my best mate taught me these long time ago :)
 
I bet the driver wouldn't vibrate that much and will be stable on the HF. Like you said the benefit might be small. Sonion 2300 and TWFK are the obvious choice at the moment. It's just my curiosity if we could find the true dual high driver.
 
From Knowles Drivers Selection Guide, It appears TWFK = WBFK + FK so yeah the WBFK is the high driver we've been talking about.
 
Have you tried 2300 / TWFK on the same setup (same port length / filter - the optimal ones) Also have you tried 3300 / DTEC head to head and which one you prefer?
 
Jun 10, 2011 at 6:16 AM Post #932 of 15,989


Quote:
dzień dobry piotrus-g, (my best mate taught me these long time ago :)
 
I bet the driver wouldn't vibrate that much and will be stable on the HF. Like you said the benefit might be small. Sonion 2300 and TWFK are the obvious choice at the moment. It's just my curiosity if we could find the true dual high driver.
 
From Knowles Drivers Selection Guide, It appears TWFK = WBFK + FK so yeah the WBFK is the high driver we've been talking about.
 
Have you tried 2300 / TWFK on the same setup (same port length / filter - the optimal ones) Also have you tried 3300 / DTEC head to head and which one you prefer?


Dzień dobry! nice to see someone writting in polish even few words :)
 
I didn't try myself any combination of drivers (except for CI-TWFK) because I don't have time to play with DIY. I place my opinions after hearing many earphones based on those driver. However you simply can't say f.e. 2300 sounds this and that, because you can tune drivers to suit your design. So you can have 2300 with rolled off highs or with sibiliants. It all depends. Though you can be sure that using 2300 for highs is one of the best choice. It should be used as a fullrange or dedicated tweeter.
 
Jun 14, 2011 at 6:05 AM Post #934 of 15,989
Was inspired to try my hand at this, but being a DIY failure, my epoxy casts keep splitting or cracking when I attempt to put holes into them...
 
 
Jun 16, 2011 at 2:17 PM Post #935 of 15,989
Pics 
blink.gif

 
Jun 16, 2011 at 7:39 PM Post #936 of 15,989
We tried this at Michigan State University, in the Audio Enthusiasts and Engineers group (http://www.aeemsu.com).  I made the male molds, female molds, but then didn't really finish up because that faction of the group kind of fell apart.  I was also really busy trying to finish my amp before Design Day.
 
I'd love to see this completed sometime though.
 
Jun 18, 2011 at 11:33 PM Post #937 of 15,989
Jul 19, 2011 at 3:39 AM Post #938 of 15,989
i'm failing too. i have no idea what to do.
could anyone make up a list of items we'd need?
i only know we need drivers. any list for me to get?
 
Jul 19, 2011 at 5:32 PM Post #939 of 15,989
This video is worth looking if you want to make yourself IEMs. If you have already watched this video, please skip this.
 

 
For ones who have problems with shells, best bet is to ask your local audiologist for an empty shell. Then you can go from there. You might even be able to buy all stuff you would need for your IEMs from them or at least ask them for help.
 
For an idea, this is what I have done with my STAX SR-001 MK2 - a custom prototype.


 
Jul 25, 2011 at 12:16 PM Post #941 of 15,989
Having seen this thread, I have some interest in making my own DIY IEM in the future.
 
I have some questions, what kind of wires do you use to join the armatures? And how do you join those wires to the armatures without affecting the armature itself?
 
Thanks in advance.
 
Jul 28, 2011 at 6:14 PM Post #942 of 15,989
I plan to use 0.15mm cryo treated pure silver wire from Audio Consulting Switzerland. I also have an eye on TWAg.
 
You can go for basic wires by asking your local BA dealer. I'm pretty sure they carry these kinda stuff.
 
Check out the driver handling guide from the manufacturer and they will tell you what kind of soldering iron / solder / flux to use and how long can you left your soldering iron on may be 2 sec.
 
I am thinking about not solder directly to the driver at all but to some kind of removable socket then we can snap the driver in once the soldering is completed.
 
Jul 30, 2011 at 4:55 PM Post #944 of 15,989
I'm new to this thread...it's very cool!
 
I'm building my own hearing aids and I'm trying to find some sockets, like those used by most recent UE.
 
I finded those used by westone and others, but seems less stable than those used by UE...do you have any idea were I can find them? And also the right cables?
 
Thanks!
 
 
 
 
 
Jul 31, 2011 at 2:23 AM Post #945 of 15,989
I have been reading through this thread for a couple days now and must say that I am very impressed with everyone's knowledge and builds. Over the recent discussion on shell materials I would like to add that Polycaprolactone (shapelock, instamorph, friendly plastic, etc.) is actually used in the medical industry and in dentistry. In fact on its wiki page it even stated that it has been used as a drug capsule for time release medications. If you can consume the stuff it would be safe to say that having it rest in your ear would be perfectly safe. I am also curious where people are sourcing their sonion driver/receivers from? I believe I read that Newark Electronics has some of the better pricing, however they don't seem to carry Sonion and they don't have the KA CI or TWFK models.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top