In this config, if the black squares are caps, the top driver is connected with a 2nd order crossover (12dB/oct), this might not be the most optimal unless the goal is to boost only the highest frequencies in a narrow rangeHi guys , i just got some sonion 2389d . I think it should be wired like that right?
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Home-Made IEMs
- Thread starter Bilavideo
- Start date
swtnate
500+ Head-Fier
12mm @3mmOD. You can use a series resistor before the cap to lower volume of each 2389 driver in the 2389D config. 5-10ohms usually helps.O interesting
12 mm tube or 14 mm ?
I tried 14 mm , and its seem to working. Lil bit loud
I’ve changed it. I just ran negative terminals separately with cap . Middle stays the same.In this config, if the black squares are caps, the top driver is connected with a 2nd order crossover (12dB/oct), this might not be the most optimal unless the goal is to boost only the highest frequencies in a narrow range
Also, i do feel i need lil more mid frequencys, Since i run 2389d with sonion 38 . well, lets see .
yeah, i noticed that even when you cut 2 mm off, it shows big difference.12mm @3mmOD. You can use a series resistor before the cap to lower volume of each 2389 driver in the 2389D config. 5-10ohms usually helps.
Lose the center tap - connect normally - this will give you more mids as your crossover will move an octave down. 2389 is already very low impedance, in parallel dual that impedance is halved further with center tap that impedance is halved once again, you are looking at 2.5 ohms at 500Hz if my quick math is correct.I’ve changed it. I just ran negative terminals separately with cap . Middle stays the same.
Also, i do feel i need lil more mid frequencys, Since i run 2389d with sonion 38 . well, lets see .
Do you think I should wire them separately?Lose the center tap - connect normally - this will give you more mids as your crossover will move an octave down. 2389 is already very low impedance, in parallel dual that impedance is halved further with center tap that impedance is halved once again, you are looking at 2.5 ohms at 500Hz if my quick math is correct.
Also,should I always run caps with positive? Because on the graph I don’t see difference.
I was planning to run first 2389 with 22 uf cap and second with 2.2 or 1 uf.
I spent sometime on how to wire the 2389 , because I don’t want over heat the drivers like i always do , I’ve wasted some many drivers like that .
swtnate
500+ Head-Fier
Ive used 4.7uf or 10uf to one driver and 0.47 or 0.82 to the other. I also use like 5-10 ohms in series before the caps to even out the signal.Do you think I should wire them separately?
Also,should I always run caps with positive? Because on the graph I don’t see difference.
I was planning to run first 2389 with 22 uf cap and second with 2.2 or 1 uf.
I spent sometime on how to wire the 2389 , because I don’t want over heat the drivers like i always do , I’ve wasted some many drivers like that .
You need to do some calculations to understand where you are first, otherwise you are going in blind.Do you think I should wire them separately?
Also,should I always run caps with positive? Because on the graph I don’t see difference.
I was planning to run first 2389 with 22 uf cap and second with 2.2 or 1 uf.
I spent sometime on how to wire the 2389 , because I don’t want over heat the drivers like i always do , I’ve wasted some many drivers like that .
22uF 2389 (single, no center cap) gives you cut off fr at 830Hz with center tap that becomes roughly 1.6kHz ( in reality probably closer to 1kHz as the impedance rises and is not linear)
2.2uF 2389 (single, no center cap) would give you a cut off 4.2kHz and 1uF would be 6kHz cut off, half coil would move those higher (again not by straight factor of 2 due to non-linear impedance)
So if you have 38d1xj which doesn't really go above 400Hz you don't have enough frequency between 1.6kHz and 400Hz (2 octaves) which causes problems with midrange, wiring normally without center tap will improve the midrange situation a bit, but you probably need to go for 40uF cap to move the crossover to about 580Hz.
If you have a problem with overheating when soldering - 1. use heat-sink - clamps or vice 2. solder permanent wires to the drivers and simply switch components at the end of those wires, you don't have to redo the whole wiring when you are only changing capacitors.
Thanks man! Im really bad with math, sometimes when im confused, i just trust my ears .You need to do some calculations to understand where you are first, otherwise you are going in blind.
22uF 2389 (single, no center cap) gives you cut off fr at 830Hz with center tap that becomes roughly 1.6kHz ( in reality probably closer to 1kHz as the impedance rises and is not linear)
2.2uF 2389 (single, no center cap) would give you a cut off 4.2kHz and 1uF would be 6kHz cut off, half coil would move those higher (again not by straight factor of 2 due to non-linear impedance)
So if you have 38d1xj which doesn't really go above 400Hz you don't have enough frequency between 1.6kHz and 400Hz (2 octaves) which causes problems with midrange, wiring normally without center tap will improve the midrange situation a bit, but you probably need to go for 40uF cap to move the crossover to about 580Hz.
If you have a problem with overheating when soldering - 1. use heat-sink - clamps or vice 2. solder permanent wires to the drivers and simply switch components at the end of those wires, you don't have to redo the whole wiring when you are only changing capacitors.
What if i wire one 2389 center tap, and other one normally, since ill get mids from one of 2389 ?
Also , is it really matter if i put yellow damp close to driver or far from the driver(sonion 38) ?
Thanks you guys for tips .
swtnate
500+ Head-Fier
I use tube diameter as my damper on a 38 w/ ferro fluid.Thanks man! Im really bad with math, sometimes when im confused, i just trust my ears .
What if i wire one 2389 center tap, and other one normally, since ill get mids from one of 2389 ?
Also , is it really matter if i put yellow damp close to driver or far from the driver(sonion 38) ?
Thanks you guys for tips .
thats what im about to do as wellI use tube diameter as my damper on a 38 w/ ferro fluid.
Lol, you think I'm doing any math haha, use online calculators, you just have to know impedance plot of the driver, which you could technically measure yourself.Thanks man! Im really bad with math, sometimes when im confused, i just trust my ears .
What if i wire one 2389 center tap, and other one normally, since ill get mids from one of 2389 ?
Also , is it really matter if i put yellow damp close to driver or far from the driver(sonion 38) ?
Thanks you guys for tips .
Yeah of course you can do that, just again be mindful of the crossover frequency - in that configuration 6-8kHz could be a sweet-spotWhat if i wire one 2389 center tap, and other one normally, since ill get mids from one of 2389 ?
what is the exact model of the driver you are using? 38AM007 or 38d1xj, there's considerable difference in response between standard version and version with AcupassAlso , is it really matter if i put yellow damp close to driver or far from the driver(sonion 38) ?
When you're trying to crossover drivers, do you have to take into account the driver's own impedance? Does every driver have to have similar impedances for them to work well together? When calculating for R for high/low pass filters, what else should be taken into account besides the resistor to be added, if the resistor is necessary after all.
Yes, and impedance at the specific frequency, not the DC value, unless you are dealing with Planar or DD where Z=Rdc for 99% cases.When you're trying to crossover drivers, do you have to take into account the driver's own impedance?
NoDoes every driver have to have similar impedances for them to work well together?
In most cases the R is not necessary.When calculating for R for high/low pass filters, what else should be taken into account besides the resistor to be added, if the resistor is necessary after all.
You need to consider electrical phase of the driver and how it fits into the rest of the design, in most of the cases when you use cap your positive wire (with the cap) has to go to the negative soldering pad of the driver to invert the phase otherwise you'll get some phase cancellations between woofer and tweeter.
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It 38d1xj . I used 20 ohm resister on it . I like the volume of it .Lol, you think I'm doing any math haha, use online calculators, you just have to know impedance plot of the driver, which you could technically measure yourself.
Yeah of course you can do that, just again be mindful of the crossover frequency - in that configuration 6-8kHz could be a sweet-spot
what is the exact model of the driver you are using? 38AM007 or 38d1xj, there's considerable difference in response between standard version and version with Acupass
Also I reverse the polarity on 38 . I thought I don’t need it, but I saw something crazy happening on the graph that look like cancellation .
Also ,he is my coffee time drawing lol
I want to try and see if 1 is different from 2
Now, i have to find 40 uf cap , i only have 22 on my hand right now.
Ill be honest, this driver is very confusing .
But thanks for help!