[tonybuild]

News

 

[stegeoc]

Hello All, long time since I’ve posted here. Tied up with other things but did manage to complete a couple of builds - very slowly - both of which I found more difficult than I should have.

One was my first with a switch (a single DIP) and I struggled with the mounting. I needed it to not protrude (as it would hurt) but ended up needing to use a sharp tool to switch it, and that damaged one of the switches (which I later changed) as it was too soft. I realise this would be easier if the iems were bigger and protruded (or put the switch on the cap), but I keep mine flush and didn’t want the switch the show. Any suggestions?

The other build I made (which I am listening too right now and sounds great) was a hybrid (huayunxin 11.5mm DD, ED and 2354). For this one I had the same problem as for my last hybrid where the front-vent was extremely difficult to tune. Can anyone let me know how you go about the tuning? How do you narrow/widen the vent, or do you manage to print the vent narrow enough directly? I was wondering if it would make sense to insert a very small screw into the vent and tighten/loosen it for tuning. Sounds too easy though.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/home-made-iems.430688/post-17744168

@slakoth453, I was intrigued by your last build. Looks great. Is your isobaric DD module just two DDs pointing at each other with a spout on the side? Is there anything more to it? Looks worth a try, though I don’t think I can fit 2x10mm drivers in my shells, maybe 2x8mm. How did you vent the front? Or didn’t you?

I have some RAU on the way, but not decided what to do with them yet

 

[stegeoc]

Yeah I don't know what to expect. I found some copper clad board on Amazon, but even the thinnest I could find was still about 1.5mm thick, way overkill. I ran across an ebay seller that had some old stock thin PCB. It was about 8 1/2 x 11 inches and is pretty flexible. I measured the thickness but don't remember the exact measurement (at work now). I hoped to make any pads where wire landed as big as possible, but 'big' is an oxymoron word working on such a tiny board. Before getting the thin board, I did a tiny test board from the 1.5mm stuff with some random extra fine tip Sharpie marks. It etched clean and the copper looked where I cleaned off the Sharpie, but didn't try to solder to it. I'll have to go home and buff it up with a tiny piece of steel wool and see how it solders to some wire. And also experiment with some of the thinner board.

I recently transferred a set of drivers from some Westone UM Pro 30s to some custom shells. There's a small crossover board in those but I found it's very easy to pull the litz wire off the board along with the copper trace just handling the driver trying to get the audio output tube pushed through the hole in the shell.

I will definitely report back on how building the crossovers goes.

A long time ago I developed my own UV PCBs using inkjet traces on transparency film. Not sure if that would be practical for something of this size though. If you have an FDM printer, have you thought about getting a laser for it and cutting the copper that way? The lasers are very cheap and should have good accuracy but I've not tried it

 

[tonybuild]

Hi . I need some help guys . I need new transparent resin for shells , because im kinda tired of nice-fit resin from ali . Its curs soft and very weak . And im sure im doing it all right.
Which uv resin you will recommend that won’t also turn yellow?
Thank uou

 

[Touchowl]

I have a question about the RAB series. The differences between the 30263/32257/30233 models seems to only be the bass response, is that accurate, or does the venting affect treble/midrange/technical performance as well?

 

[piotrus-g]

Hi . I need some help guys . I need new transparent resin for shells , because im kinda tired of nice-fit resin from ali . Its curs soft and very weak . And im sure im doing it all right.
Which uv resin you will recommend that won’t also turn yellow?
Thank uou

If you are in US go to warner tech https://www.warnertechcare.com/products they carry Dreve, Detax and others. Expensive, but these are the resins to use for IEMs.

 

[piotrus-g]

I have a question about the RAB series. The differences between the 30263/32257/30233 models seems to only be the bass response, is that accurate, or does the venting affect treble/midrange/technical performance as well?

Very much from memory - difference is in impedance and venting, but I think they also have different internal design to a degree and will vary in THD as well.

 

[tonybuild]

If you are in US go to warner tech https://www.warnertechcare.com/products they carry Dreve, Detax and others. Expensive, but these are the resins to use for IEMs.

Have you ever used egger resin ?
Thank you

 

[piotrus-g]

Have you ever used egger resin ?
Thank you

Yes, we use it all the time.

 

[tonybuild]

Yes, we use it all the time.

Do you buy from the same website?

 

[piotrus-g]

Do you buy from the same website?

No, we buy from local distributor.

 

[Touchowl]

Figure I should post what I've done so far here too. End goal is a 1BA mids with 2DD for subbass and treble, but so far I've invested a lot more time into ergonomics and design. Having a lot of fun with it

 

[PeaksZA]

I have a really simple question but one that has a lot of different answers, what effect does different sized of acoustic tubing have on sound ? I have 1.5mm ID and 2mm ID but the 2mm tubing is quite a squeeze in the canal when using two tubes with a gk.
Any smart people answers on the effect of the tubing size ?

 

[Touchowl]

Anyone know what would cause bass leakage after front vent has been covered, and coupler is sealed?(first pic compares against Truthear Zero Red measured with same tips to show that there is a seal, second pic shows just the bass DD, comparison with front vent covered/uncovered.)

 

[swtnate]

Do you buy from the same website?

I use pro3dure pouring resins. If you are using the Ali nicefit resins, you will probably do best with either the Egger or Dreve. Pro3dure cures at a bit different UV wavelength. For lacquers I use the Pro3dure Lacquer and the Detax Shellac. I have purchased all my liquids through warner.