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Home-Made IEMs
Mar 16, 2022 at 11:53 AM Post #13,756 of 15,989
Hello good afternoon, I have been researching for quite some time here on the forum headfi, on Reddit, GitHub, other sources information for the creation of DIY or Custom iems, I found suppliers from SoundLink on Aliexpress, Corsan in England from. Bellsing, and the recently disappeared Mc Ear after that information of drivers, the faceplate the materials for the elaboration Aggar, resin, lacquer, glue, where I even found information about playing with the diameters of the tube plays an important role, the design as campfire proposes it of the taec even I developed hypotheses of how it works the acoustic chambers of Acoustune also apex of 64 audio, the fir audio technologies, it is incredible the amount of information I have found and for the following I came to several conclusions the most difficult to create in an iem is the crossover, it is not good to mix sonion and Knowles, the faceplate can be of great quality if you have suppliers like the M3 compositive that uses the noble Khan, the planar drivers perform in an outstanding way, it is better to use 2 pin than mmcx. The best brands in terms of technologies are 64 audio, Vision Ears, Lime Ears, Fit Ear I think they are better now my question is the following as they develop a crossover for a sound in U use a 1uf capacitor for the tweeter, in the middle put a 4.7 uf capacitor and bass put the same but with a resistor in parallel 2r2 or put a 10uf capacitor question would be for a sound in u and w?

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Mar 16, 2022 at 9:21 PM Post #13,757 of 15,989
CBTlover223 said:
The SWFK measurement currently is practically a placeholder measured with a 10mm tube and no dampening. Even with the tweeter removed, there is still a 4dp bulge that I am trying to get rid of. I can't really tell what's causing it, but I think it might be something with the measurement setup since stacking a green and red dampener together didn't get rid of it. Although I don't have a good way of verifying it, I suspect that the adaptor that adapts the mic opening to the BA driver's nozzle (which is a 1mm ID x 8-9mm long aluminum tube) might be causing the peak since removing it seemed to help a lot.

Measurement with makeshift adaptor:
1647443134009.png
Stacked red + green dampeners
Click to expand...
First off, you have to measure each driver while all wired together in circuit. for example: a change in resistor to a sub driver will effect every other driver. As you bring one down, another will jump up. The 2389D paired with a 38 is awesome. I think the addition of SWFK is causing your bump. That being said, i would run the 2389D and the 38 with 1mm ID probably at 12-15mm in length. Then use 1.5-2mmID for the SWFK and place it as far away as you can. Probably a 0.82-1uf capacitor. Also, bare in mind some of these peaks are not present in the actual human ear. So, if you have it really close, throw it in a shell and give it a listen. Use an equalizer, like in iTunes, to see what frequency area needs pulling down.
 
Mar 16, 2022 at 9:39 PM Post #13,758 of 15,989
swtnate said:
First off, you have to measure each driver while all wired together in circuit. for example: a change in resistor to a sub driver will effect every other driver. As you bring one down, another will jump up. The 2389D paired with a 38 is awesome. I think the addition of SWFK is causing your bump. That being said, i would run the 2389D and the 38 with 1mm ID probably at 12-15mm in length. Then use 1.5-2mmID for the SWFK and place it as far away as you can. Probably a 0.82-1uf capacitor. Also, bare in mind some of these peaks are not present in the actual human ear. So, if you have it really close, throw it in a shell and give it a listen. Use an equalizer, like in iTunes, to see what frequency area needs pulling down.
Click to expand...
PS - if using a series resistor for your 38, consider using an L-pad. It will lower the volume AND prevent a HF bump.
 
Mar 17, 2022 at 1:42 AM Post #13,759 of 15,989
CBTlover223 said:
The SWFK measurement currently is practically a placeholder measured with a 10mm tube and no dampening. Even with the tweeter removed, there is still a 4dp bulge that I am trying to get rid of. I can't really tell what's causing it, but I think it might be something with the measurement setup since stacking a green and red dampener together didn't get rid of it. Although I don't have a good way of verifying it, I suspect that the adaptor that adapts the mic opening to the BA driver's nozzle (which is a 1mm ID x 8-9mm long aluminum tube) might be causing the peak since removing it seemed to help a lot.

Measurement with makeshift adaptor:
1647443134009.png
Stacked red + green dampeners
Click to expand...
to fix 4k, you need to adjust damper at a position in a tube where it dampens 4k effectively
for swfk, make crossover smaller in uF(high pass), so you can avoid fundamental swfk resonance at 4k

making tube longer will also move 4k resonance down to 3k, which might be acceptable
 
Mar 17, 2022 at 3:14 PM Post #13,760 of 15,989
Hey, considering the MASM 7 circuit, do you guys think this pcb design would be fine?
On the top left is the negative, on the bottom left the positive input. They are directly wired to the K- and K+ outputs -> RAB 32033. They are wired with a 10 ohm resistor to the B- and B+ outputs -> Bellsing 10013. There one zobel network across te Bellsing 10013 driver -> 25Ohm 22uf and one across the RAB 32033 -> 38Ohm 5uf. Do you think these values are fine and it would work properly. I dont really want to wire all this stuff loose in the shell but have a nice clean little pcb for it.
1647544079312.png

1647544141031.png
 
Mar 18, 2022 at 2:45 PM Post #13,761 of 15,989
I have followed this forum for a while now and in fact built my first set of CIEM's for leading on stage based on a build in this forum. Ling time follower, but first time posting. The in ears worked great, but they were built in 2015, so they are now starting to dye. :frowning2: So, before building a new set of CIEM's, I am thinking of doing the MASM7 Tri-Bore universal based on Stephen's build. I have looked all over for the answers but following his post on pg. 684 (#10,250), pg. 722 (#10,830), and pg. 771 (#11,565), I still have a few questions. The first; since I cannot get the Bellsing 10013, I would put in its place the BZ6. However, I am unsure of circuit and/or drivers. I have read that the FK/WBFK with DTEC (or HODVTEC) is preferred over the TWFK combo. Can someone give a circuit with this configuration for me? Also, how would you place the 2 TWFK (FK/WBFK), 2 DTEC (or HODVTEC) into the Trip-Bore 3D shell? I am pretty sure that I have the dampers figured out for this, but maybe someone could verify this as well. Thanks so much for everything you guys are doing here!!! I know this is i big ask, but it is very much appreciated!!
 
Mar 19, 2022 at 6:27 AM Post #13,765 of 15,989
Bassiklee said:
Yes, and he was looking for the values, to try to duplicate it. Perhaps a more helpful answer would have been "unless you are using exactly the same drivers, duplicating the crossover won't get you what you expect"…
Click to expand...
lmao, sorry, i was like
quick read mode(my brain) since I was going for an interview
no job :frowning2:
 
Mar 19, 2022 at 7:13 AM Post #13,766 of 15,989
Hello, I'm trying to get back into making IEMs after making a pair a while back but I managed to spill the rest of my 4ml bottle of Lack 3. No one in europe seems to sell it to end users now that mcear is shut down, does anyone know where to get Lack 3 or a suitable alternative here in Germany or would be willing to sell me some? I would really appreciate it.

I managed to find some Luxaprint shellac, does anyone have experience with that stuff? Smallest amount I can get is 100ml though and that's quite expensive.
https://syntecshop.com/de/produkt/luxaprint-shellac-100-ml-transparent
 
Last edited:
Mar 19, 2022 at 11:51 AM Post #13,767 of 15,989
slakoth453 said:
Hello, I'm trying to get back into making IEMs after making a pair a while back but I managed to spill the rest of my 4ml bottle of Lack 3. No one in europe seems to sell it to end users now that mcear is shut down, does anyone know where to get Lack 3 or a suitable alternative here in Germany or would be willing to sell me some? I would really appreciate it.

I managed to find some Luxaprint shellac, does anyone have experience with that stuff? Smallest amount I can get is 100ml though and that's quite expensive.
https://syntecshop.com/de/produkt/luxaprint-shellac-100-ml-transparent
Click to expand...
https://otoplastikshop.dreve.de/otoplastiken/fotoplastr-lacquer-3-4257.html
 
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