[Wgibson]

You talking sonion bone conduction, or the big 1" (25mm) type? You could glue a big one on top of an iem faceplate and wire it up, see what happens.

 

[kkugel]

I really don't recommend doing the trimming part in Fusion...I have no idea about the smoothing that way and what features of the ear it can crush along the way.

It's also usually computationally intensive, especially when importing raw scanned files (even more if not smoothed already) and converting quad to tspline>correcting errors>tspline to brep...It can crash easily depending on the quad counts.

The trimming, thickening and hollowing should be done with another software such as meshmixer. It's much easier then to import and play with.


You can easily close holes and repair the file with meshmixer using the inspector tool in the analysis section. Much easier than repairing while doing the quad to brep to tspline conversion in fusion. It will repair the bulk of errors and will leave you with potentially a small error count once imported in fusion, that will be easier to repair before the final tspline to brep conversion.

Once you are done with the the trimming and created the shells (that you could normally print at this stage), you could easily then convert to quads using Instant Meshes (you can control the number of quads and shapes with Instant Meshes to keep the features of your impressions as well).

Here is an example of an ear impressions that has been worked on via MM and another software for brushes as well as thickened and imported in Instant Meshes

I can then use the target vertex count to allow for more resolution for the quad count with higher subdivisions.
Here I have bumped up the vertex count and solved. Once extracting the mesh I use pure quad meshes and you can see the result


Here you can see the import in fusion


after a small repair job inside fusion that is the tspline result



The bulk of the work is actually trimming the raw impression in MM and other software to get a clean result.
It requires experience trimming in the physical realm especially if you want clean looking fp shapes and allow for enough space inside

I really don't recommend doing any kind of trimming inside fusion.

Wow nice, thx! I do trim in MM, i just do the last faceplate side cut in Fusion, so I can use less quads and still get sharp edges.

 

[kkugel]

I really don't recommend doing the trimming part in Fusion...I have no idea about the smoothing that way and what features of the ear it can crush along the way.

It's also usually computationally intensive, especially when importing raw scanned files (even more if not smoothed already) and converting quad to tspline>correcting errors>tspline to brep...It can crash easily depending on the quad counts.

The trimming, thickening and hollowing should be done with another software such as meshmixer. It's much easier then to import and play with.


You can easily close holes and repair the file with meshmixer using the inspector tool in the analysis section. Much easier than repairing while doing the quad to brep to tspline conversion in fusion. It will repair the bulk of errors and will leave you with potentially a small error count once imported in fusion, that will be easier to repair before the final tspline to brep conversion.

Once you are done with the the trimming and created the shells (that you could normally print at this stage), you could easily then convert to quads using Instant Meshes (you can control the number of quads and shapes with Instant Meshes to keep the features of your impressions as well).

Here is an example of an ear impressions that has been worked on via MM and another software for brushes as well as thickened and imported in Instant Meshes

I can then use the target vertex count to allow for more resolution for the quad count with higher subdivisions.
Here I have bumped up the vertex count and solved. Once extracting the mesh I use pure quad meshes and you can see the result


Here you can see the import in fusion


after a small repair job inside fusion that is the tspline result



The bulk of the work is actually trimming the raw impression in MM and other software to get a clean result.
It requires experience trimming in the physical realm especially if you want clean looking fp shapes and allow for enough space inside

I really don't recommend doing any kind of trimming inside fusion.

I wonder how you make the cuts so clean as to get a clean FP shape, do you have any advice on that?

 

[ForceMajeure]

I wonder how you make the cuts so clean as to get a clean FP shape, do you have any advice on that?

I am not sure exactly what you mean here, but if you mean the perimeter around to get the shape, then I just remove the bulk of impression material with raw cuts (and make solid) like I would do with a physical impression.

Then scrap around bits by bits with brushes like I would do with a rotatory tool. To match shapes for both sides I usually end up facing both impressions on top of each others (fp against fp, positioning is slightly complicated) to slowly scrap the material around the other one after I shape the perimeter of first one.

The first thing one should do when importing both raw impressions in MM is to position them side by side so they are more or less even and features on them are more or less at the same height (ears are not exactly symmetrical so experience come into play here). This is crucial to do before doing any cuts. Doing so will remove most guesses while trimming later on.

 

[swtnate]

soooo, real talk. I've made a couple headsets lately that will not sit snugly in the 711 coupler. What do you use in its place? I've look all over Ali and nothing. I have the Sonion attachment and the knowles one and the earphone one. Any guidance?

 

[mattmatt]

soooo, real talk. I've made a couple headsets lately that will not sit snugly in the 711 coupler. What do you use in its place? I've look all over Ali and nothing. I have the Sonion attachment and the knowles one and the earphone one. Any guidance?

what attachments do you have?

What are you looking for?

 

[ForceMajeure]

Can anyone recommend an handheld uv curing light (dentists ones) that works for egger/dreve and lacquer etc...

The last one I had that was working great just gave up and I have just received a new one. but unfortunately this time around the UV led they use doesn't cure (since it doesn't cover the lower uv spectrum range). I suspect they started using cheaper UV led that are blinding blue but barely cure the proper range.

 

[Lamim Rashid]

Had a few quick questions related to BA choice.

So I know of a manufacturers switching from sonion 38 + sonion 33 series ba drivers to sonion 38 + Knowles 31 series ba drivers for low/low-mid frequencies. They are keeping the rest of the high frequency range to 8 bellsing twfk ba drivers. So the only real change is the move from sonion 33 ba to Knowles 31 ba. What's the difference here, which one is actually better?

My next question is a separate question. I want to know which of the following configurations would cost more (a rough guesstimate since I don't know all the exact drivers used), assuming they use the same DD.
Configuration A:
2*Knowles RAD-33518 for high frequency 4*Sonion 2600 for mid frequency
1*10.2mm DD for bass
Configuration B:
2*Knowles twfk for ultra high frequency
2*sonion 2389 for mid-high frequency
2*sonion 37 series for mid-low frequency
1*10.2mm DD for bass

And a last bonus question since this one is the most subjective and depends on too many other variables, which of those two configurations do you guys think is best?

 

[mattmatt]

Can anyone recommend an handheld uv curing light (dentists ones) that works for egger/dreve and lacquer etc...

The last one I had that was working great just gave up and I have just received a new one. but unfortunately this time around the UV led they use doesn't cure (since it doesn't cover the lower uv spectrum range). I suspect they started using cheaper UV led that are blinding blue but barely cure the proper range.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLJuPEe
Really really powerful.

 

[ForceMajeure]

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLJuPEe
Really really powerful.

This looks crazy powerful.
What UV range did you get for this one (365nm)?

I know some slightly higher ranges can also penetrate darker colors and still manage to cure various types of resins and glues because the UV bleed covers more than a certain exact region on the spectrum (albeit with slightly less peak power but still good enough to cure).

I wish I could find the same dentist handheld UV I had again and be sure they didn't skimp on the led inside without buying all of them. The fact that it was with a battery was nice and didn't get in the way. On the other hand it was its culprit as well before the led burned completely.

 

[Xymordos]

Can anyone recommend an handheld uv curing light (dentists ones) that works for egger/dreve and lacquer etc...

The last one I had that was working great just gave up and I have just received a new one. but unfortunately this time around the UV led they use doesn't cure (since it doesn't cover the lower uv spectrum range). I suspect they started using cheaper UV led that are blinding blue but barely cure the proper range.

I use a USB one like this, but had to communicate with the seller on the wavelength:-
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?sp...zXWPF&id=588991018059&ns=1&abbucket=14#detail

I use this uber powerful one for anything big:
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.2.0.0.bc062e8dKvKSY1&id=546912803167&_u=qkqv5el456e

 

[ForceMajeure]

I use a USB one like this, but had to communicate with the seller on the wavelength:-
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?sp...zXWPF&id=588991018059&ns=1&abbucket=14#detail

I use this uber powerful one for anything big:
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.2.0.0.bc062e8dKvKSY1&id=546912803167&_u=qkqv5el456e

That 2nd one looks over the top

 

[mattmatt]

This looks crazy powerful.
What UV range did you get for this one (365nm)?

I know some slightly higher ranges can also penetrate darker colors and still manage to cure various types of resins and glues because the UV bleed covers more than a certain exact region on the spectrum (albeit with slightly less peak power but still good enough to cure).

I wish I could find the same dentist handheld UV I had again and be sure they didn't skimp on the led inside without buying all of them. The fact that it was with a battery was nice and didn't get in the way. On the other hand it was its culprit as well before the led burned completely.

I use the 365nm one. I don't have problems curing dark colors with this one. Tho I use a different one for my clears because this is crazy powerful.

What I did with my dentist's light pen is replaced the LED with a 365nm 3W SMD UV LED. That might work for you.

 

[Xymordos]

That 2nd one looks over the top

Cure things at incredible speeds though! I use it to cure the lacquer real quick.

 

[ForceMajeure]

I use the 365nm one. I don't have problems curing dark colors with this one. Tho I use a different one for my clears because this is crazy powerful.

What I did with my dentist's light pen is replaced the LED with a 365nm 3W SMD UV LED. That might work for you.

Yes I am looking at that option as well. This is the led that was on the old one. Dual chip, I don't know if it is a 3w or 5w. I manage to measure the voltage drop and current just before it finally died. it was 3V and 500mA according to it is 1.5w (p=vi). My guess is that it's probably a 3w led in there

This is the led on the old one and this is the the dual n mosfet near it probably to regulate the current, it says 996A

I have just dismantled the new one as well (also look to have 2 chips inside) and measured the voltage and current drop and it was also 3V 500mA. But this one has a different IC near the led, it says CN5711 which is a LED driver apparently. Can be set to up to 1500mA according to the datasheet.
I need to dig into the datasheet to see what current it is currently set to
the resistors near it are probably the way to control the constant current value.

On the old one I was just using the 40sec option and it was good enough for curing anything (it probably cured most stuff before that but I just set it to the max).