[Farquarl]

Both need damping and the BS6 needs a Zobel to sound good. Both bass drivers are bloating in the mids and need to be damped.

My damping for BS6 is orange for bass and white for TWFK.

What did you try to tune it?

I tried red on Cl and white in twfk. I tried the other way around and many crossover configurations from a high pass of the twfk and a simple resistor for the cl to a low pass high pass combination. When you guys use ARTA do you compensate for the open ear gain?

 

[eunice]

I tried red on Cl and white in twfk.

Red is not nearly enough for the CI, it bloats into the mids like crazy. Try yellow on the CI, but the Knowles GK never sounded good to me. In fact not a single build based on the CI got that bloat into the mids under control.

The DTEC of the BS6 is not bloating as much as the CI, so orange or even red on the DTEC should be enough.

 

[Daedalus1116]

Thanks for the offer Farquarl.
So I just found out that my university has this industrial 3D scanner capable of 0.1mm resolution (https://www.artec3d.com/portable-3d-scanners/artec-spider). Do you guys think it's better to cut the impressions to final CIEM shape or to cut the scanned file?
Since the shells will be 3D printed, is it better to model in the sound bores up to the BA drivers so that no acoustic tubing is used at all?

 

[Farquarl]

Thanks for the offer Farquarl.
So I just found out that my university has this industrial 3D scanner capable of 0.1mm resolution (https://www.artec3d.com/portable-3d-scanners/artec-spider). Do you guys think it's better to cut the impressions to final CIEM shape or to cut the scanned file?
Since the shells will be 3D printed, is it better to model in the sound bores up to the BA drivers so that no acoustic tubing is used at all?

Nice one! I would highly recommend to at least trimm the impression. As with meshmixer it is quite hard to trim "precisely". I would also recommend that you don´t design tubes/bores right up to the transducer. It is alsways nice to be able to flex the position of the speakers inside the shell. In my honest opinion designen the bores digitaly is a huge waste of time.If you are still interested i could make another video where i show the process in detail. Let me know
Cheers

 

[et.haan]

Red is not nearly enough for the CI, it bloats into the mids like crazy. Try yellow on the CI, but the Knowles GK never sounded good to me. In fact not a single build based on the CI got that bloat into the mids under control.

The DTEC of the BS6 is not bloating as much as the CI, so orange or even red on the DTEC should be enough.

CI, center tap and zobel will work up to 3khz.

As a true woofer, 2nd order 100uf looks like this.
Also has 2 yellow dampers
Pretty great. Takes a fair bit of electronics though.

Thanks for the offer Farquarl.
So I just found out that my university has this industrial 3D scanner capable of 0.1mm resolution (https://www.artec3d.com/portable-3d-scanners/artec-spider). Do you guys think it's better to cut the impressions to final CIEM shape or to cut the scanned file?
Since the shells will be 3D printed, is it better to model in the sound bores up to the BA drivers so that no acoustic tubing is used at all?

Absolutely incorporate the bores into your design if you can. But, just make sure you already have a design in mind for crossover.

This is how 64 can create such a massive soundstage. They print their tubes, and use a monobore to have otherwise impossibly large volume. You can also use it as a horn, and get improved HF response. You may need a 711 to tune this.

Meshmixer is absolutely not my preferred cad program, but somebody did a great video on making IEM’s in it. Search the reddit page for it.

 

[icarusforde]

Meshmixer is absolutely not my preferred cad program, but somebody did a great video on making IEM’s in it. Search the reddit page for it.

I believe this is the video you're referring to:

 

[Farquarl]

I believe this is the video you're referring to:

If someone follows this tutorial don´t offset the tip of your canal by 0.75mm this is way too much. I think this will propably hurt while inserting and also wearing. I read a paper about the topic off the the right offset. Conclusion was that 0.2-0.3mm is the best for fit and seal. This needs to be applied to the whole scan since the seal happens further down the canal at the transition from the concha to the canal. Also printing your faceplates is not a good idea due to the support needed to hold it. It will look quite ugly.

@et.haan
Thanks for the tipp i will try it out to make some use out of my remaining CL´s.
What CAD program do you prefeer for making IEM? I have not found a good alternative except maybe the proffessional versions from cyfex and 3Shape (which are hard to come by)

Absolutely incorporate the bores into your design if you can. But, just make sure you already have a design in mind for crossover.

Yes exactly and if you dont have a speacial design such as a horn in mind and just want simple bores doing it "manually" is better/easier.

 

[et.haan]

If someone follows this tutorial don´t offset the tip of your canal by 0.75mm this is way too much. I think this will propably hurt while inserting and also wearing. I read a paper about the topic off the the right offset. Conclusion was that 0.2-0.3mm is the best for fit and seal. This needs to be applied to the whole scan since the seal happens further down the canal at the transition from the concha to the canal. Also printing your faceplates is not a good idea due to the support needed to hold it. It will look quite ugly.

@et.haan
Thanks for the tipp i will try it out to make some use out of my remaining CL´s.
What CAD program do you prefeer for making IEM? I have not found a good alternative except maybe the proffessional versions from cyfex and 3Shape (which are hard to come by)

Yes exactly and if you dont have a speacial design such as a horn in mind and just want simple bores doing it "manually" is better/easier.

This depends on impression. He probably had closed jaw. It takes trial and error.

It is CI. I once said the same.

I use Autodesk Inventor. As a numbers guy, I love it. I can control everything. But, with this, comes it being a pain for anything remotely organic. Dont use it for natural shapes lol. For other stuff, its great. You can have a 20,000 part assembly and it will do “fine”.

I would use meshmix (or hopefully, a better alternative) for adding volume to shell. I would then export in whatever can give me the most details (maybe .stl size set to meters) and then, open in Inventor. From there, mess around with tubes. You can find 3d models of drivers on KN’s website. Find something you like, and then check it in CFD. Do a pressure analysis.

 

[Daedalus1116]

Designing in special bores sounds extremely rewarding, but also extremely hard for hobbyist.
My current plan is just so that I don't have to dremel out any material when building the CIEM.

Has anyone tried making 3 bores version of the MASM 7?

 

[et.haan]

Well... Almost 11 years later... some buddies and I figured it out. We are all blind.

Hell, 14 years, if you are talking about the release of the 22955. Okay, what am I saying about the 22955?

Its got a vent. No, you can check, but its not on the datasheet.

Even the Bellsing one has this vent. I think it is integral to the design.

The worlds loudest driver just got louder.

By calculation, it should be 132dB sensitivity.
Heres the response. Sorry for the photo, my keyboard needs a reflash, so I cant type anything on my computer, other than with using an onscreen keyboard.
This is a 25*1mm ID tube, into a 711.

Notice: I accidentally clicked post before I got the response back on the real CI having a vent too. Ill edit if it doesnt, but it should.

Edit 2: 22955 came out in 2010, but the 30050 came out in ‘06. Weird. It is likely on the 30050.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Designing in special bores sounds extremely rewarding, but also extremely hard for hobbyist.
My current plan is just so that I don't have to dremel out any material when building the CIEM.

Has anyone tried making 3 bores version of the MASM 7?

MASM7Z

@stephensynanta16 and me

If someone follows this tutorial don´t offset the tip of your canal by 0.75mm this is way too much. I think this will propably hurt while inserting and also wearing. I read a paper about the topic off the the right offset. Conclusion was that 0.2-0.3mm is the best for fit and seal. This needs to be applied to the whole scan since the seal happens further down the canal at the transition from the concha to the canal. Also printing your faceplates is not a good idea due to the support needed to hold it. It will look quite ugly.

@et.haan
Thanks for the tipp i will try it out to make some use out of my remaining CL´s.
What CAD program do you prefeer for making IEM? I have not found a good alternative except maybe the proffessional versions from cyfex and 3Shape (which are hard to come by)

Yes exactly and if you dont have a speacial design such as a horn in mind and just want simple bores doing it "manually" is better/easier.

Its CI(ci) and not CL

 

[et.haan]

Well... Almost 11 years later... some buddies and I figured it out. We are all blind.

Hell, 14 years, if you are talking about the release of the 22955. Okay, what am I saying about the 22955?

Its got a vent. No, you can check, but its not on the datasheet.

Even the Bellsing one has this vent. I think it is integral to the design.

The worlds loudest driver just got louder.

By calculation, it should be 132dB sensitivity.
Heres the response. Sorry for the photo, my keyboard needs a reflash, so I cant type anything on my computer, other than with using an onscreen keyboard.
This is a 25*1mm ID tube, into a 711.


Notice: I accidentally clicked post before I got the response back on the real CI having a vent too. Ill edit if it doesnt, but it should.

Edit 2: 22955 came out in 2010, but the 30050 came out in ‘06. Weird. It is likely on the 30050.

Edit 3: If you have a 29689, please try and post this. It could be a 26805 in disguise.

Edit 1 billion: Thats not an edit. Im an idiot. Time for bed.

 

[et.haan]

Fairly manual monobore design guide below

Designing in special bores sounds extremely rewarding, but also extremely hard for hobbyist.
My current plan is just so that I don't have to dremel out any material when building the CIEM.

Has anyone tried making 3 bores version of the MASM 7?

3 bore is certainly possible, although it depends on your ear. I can do 5 tubes, or 3 2mm ID’s. The typical ear, with some practice on a dremel, should be able to do 2 2mm ID + 1mm ID, for the woofer part of MASM7.

I had an idea a while back, that although I havent tried, is the solution to an EASY monobore, that matches from left to right. Usually, I will at least prototype something before I right about it, but as they are the new cool to talk about, here we go. Everything works in theory.

What you need:
Krystallloid negative of an impression
Heat gun
Small drill bit (size TBD)
Wooden dowel (same size as drill bit) + fine pen + caliper OR
3d Printer

Step 1: Use the Heat gun to heat up the back side of your drill bit. Metals, especially tool steel, are generally quite thermally conductive, so you may want to holy the bit with a pair of pliers, as it will get hot. Poke the hot drill bit from the base of the negative in to the canal. The krystallloid melts very easily. Be sure to hold it upright, and occasionally remove the drill bit from the negative, so that the molten krystallloid flows out the base, not into the canal.
Note: When casting your negatives, you will want to make the canal of your impression stand as close to vertical as possible, so that the drill bit will enter the canal evenly, and not have any thin walls. You can prop the impression up with hot glue.

From here, you have a krystallloid negative with a massive hole in it. Ha! sucker! Go make another one, and dont be so gullible next time

Just kidding. From here, you have two options for plugging. Either A: Put the dowel into the hole (after making sure they are the same length, the volume is important) and cast with fotoplast, or B, 3D print something to fit inside the monobore, with a base the size of the drill bit.

With the 3d printer, you can incorporate a looooong horn, or a support for something like the 30019.

 

[sanekn]

CI, center tap and zobel will work up to 3khz.

As a true woofer, 2nd order 100uf looks like this.
Also has 2 yellow dampers
Pretty great. Takes a fair bit of electronics though.



Absolutely incorporate the bores into your design if you can. But, just make sure you already have a design in mind for crossover.

This is how 64 can create such a massive soundstage. They print their tubes, and use a monobore to have otherwise impossibly large volume. You can also use it as a horn, and get improved HF response. You may need a 711 to tune this.

Meshmixer is absolutely not my preferred cad program, but somebody did a great video on making IEM’s in it. Search the reddit page for it.

Hey, you think if one use one bigass tube like 3 or 4mm ID, it could be a great idea? thinking of it for my future build. Just for testing it out. Wouldn't it be like a monobore if one glue it as usual at the tip and then fill the canal with fotoplast for it to be set at a good angle etc

 

[raygunraymond]

hey everyone im having trouble sourcing resistors
What power rating should i be looking for?
I haven't found anything small enough i think
US sources are appreciated