[Kulgrinda]

Sorry, should have mentioned that.
Series.
Let us know how it all went and impressions about the sound please too!

Will do! I still have several combinations I want to test but cannot find enough time..

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Interestingly enough dual RAF sounds better with 22Ohm resistor in series, while low output Z is better suited for RAB/RAF combination, go figure.

Well....can you tell me about Z(are you referring impedance)

Do you mean parallel and then 22ohms, combined with zobel in end.

??????

Or you mean series, with 22ohms and Zobel in between.


Confused???

 

[Ivan TT]

Well....can you tell me about Z(are you referring impedance)

Do you mean parallel and then 22ohms, combined with zobel in end.

??????

Or you mean series, with 22ohms and Zobel in between.


Confused???

Yes, Z is a symbol for impedance.
The drivers are in series, zobel circuit is connected in parallel to the drivers (or to mmcx terminal + and - to avoid any doubt).
22Ohm resistor is between amp’s output and positive terminal, so it is in series with the drivers.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Yes, Z is a symbol for impedance.
The drivers are in series, zobel circuit is connected in parallel to the drivers (or to mmcx terminal + and - to avoid any doubt).
22Ohm resistor is between amp’s output and positive terminal, so it is in series with the drivers.

You were also talking about polarity once.... Is there something we have to touch or is it normal series driver stacked against one another.

 

[Ivan TT]

You were also talking about polarity once.... Is there something we have to touch or is it normal series driver stacked against one another.

Drivers are glued together and connected in series. Assembly is housed in stretched tube (similar to how spout-less drivers are often used), extending about 4mm over spouts and 2mm ID tube glued in.
So yes, normal drivers connected in series, normal polarity.
Sorry, don’t have recent photos and shells are glued tight.

 

[wardy]

Okay so with my first pair on inears behind me, I now know full well I can build them however wanted to ask some advice about making 'perfect' shells.


My first pair were not smooth and I want to kinda go for the mirror finish that companies pull off.
Can you give me some advice? I will also be using the proper products by Dreve

Cheers

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Drivers are glued together and connected in series. Assembly is housed in stretched tube (similar to how spout-less drivers are often used), extending about 4mm over spouts and 2mm ID tube glued in.
So yes, normal drivers connected in series, normal polarity.
Sorry, don’t have recent photos and shells are glued tight.

I went dual RAF series + zobel + 22 ohms

And dual RAF parallel + 55ohm resistor + new zobel( Cz = 0.6uF{220nF parallel combo} and 83ohm resistor)

2mm ID tube was stretched so that the two nozzle comes in place.

RAF-series : ohh....this is dynamic level bass. It is a balanced v-shape with endless bass extension. Going deeper than CI, if not quantity.
Mids have this nice decay, which places it backward and is more textured.
Treble is smooth and snappy but rolls off quickly.
It sounds more enjoyable

No hint of slowing down


RAF-new parallel : tamed bass, forward mids but way more resolved(the series was textured). Best part is that it has very amazing treble response. It sounds more effortless and speedier than RAF-series

 

[eunice]

Okay so with my first pair on inears behind me, I now know full well I can build them however wanted to ask some advice about making 'perfect' shells.


My first pair were not smooth and I want to kinda go for the mirror finish that companies pull off.
Can you give me some advice? I will also be using the proper products by Dreve

Cheers

Lacquer process in short: 1) build shell using Dreve, egger or pro3dure resin. 2) sand 3) apply lacquer, wait for the lacquer to spread evenly (some use rotating machines for this) and then cure again. If the lacquer still feels sticky, it’s not fully cured yet.

No lacquer process 1) and 2) like above. 3) sand with fine grit 4) polish with rubber wheel 5) polish with leather wheel 6) polish with Dreve polishing wax.

My results with lacquer look a little better, but I get the better feeling finish and better fit with the polishing wax. I am still working on improving my lacquer skills, will try dipping in lacquer some time in the future.

 

[alanwcruz]

Okay so with my first pair on inears behind me, I now know full well I can build them however wanted to ask some advice about making 'perfect' shells.


My first pair were not smooth and I want to kinda go for the mirror finish that companies pull off.
Can you give me some advice? I will also be using the proper products by Dreve

Cheers

Patience, a lot of patience! Getting the mirror finish with completely clear shells is all about making sure everything is completely cured, depending on your UV light source the exposure time varies, don't rush, let everything cure, pour your acrylic and cure, take out excess liquid acrylic and cure, fill with glycerin and cure, dip entire shell in glycerin and cure again, it all counts when you want great looking professional results.

 

[alanwcruz]

Here's another scary build I made this past weekend, much easier if you use a PCB but still very hard to fit everything with small ears.

 

[DannyBouwhuis]

Here's another scary build I made this past weekend, much easier if you use a PCB but still very hard to fit everything with small ears.

I'm deeply impressed, that looks amazing !
Its almost like the shell is filled, so clear. It isn't right ?
Where did you buy the pcbs ? I've been looking but I can't find em anywhere..

 

[alanwcruz]

I'm deeply impressed, that looks amazing !
Its almost like the shell is filled, so clear. It isn't right ?
Where did you buy the pcbs ? I've been looking but I can't find em anywhere..

It's not, however the shell was poured with the components inside the mold, I tried making the shells first as I normally would but I just couldn't get everything to fit this way, direct pour was the only way to go.

For the PCB, I send the design here https://jlcpcb.com/ and they build it for me, I use https://easyeda.com/ to make the design, then it's just about soldering the SMD's onto the PCB.

 

[Squirg]

Anyone know about Sonion’s electrostatic tweeters ? seems lot of IEMs are using it now.

Ive been curious about the new Tweeters from Sonion so I reached out to them and this is what the Rep had to say...
The EST extends the bandwidth past human hearing. There is not much music above 8k or so… but there are harmonics well past 20k. The EST helps the earphone present the harmonics correctly… so actually the notes (the fundamentals) sound more true. A piano sounds more like a piano and so on.


The tweeter is nearly mass-less… so it is very difficult to use. You have to have the plumbing be just right. If not… there is no reason to use it… because none of the high frequencies will make it out the end of the ear tip. Calibrated test equipment good past 8k is a must (and few of our customers have this).


The usual design cycle goes something like this:

• I got the samples but they don’t work
• Send better samples
• I kept working with it and now I have some output…. This sucks
• Something is wrong

About two thirds of the people quit. About one third go on

• Getting some HF output, but need more output
• Padded mids… got the tubing right…
• IT WORKS… oh my… I have never heard anything sound so good.

Hope this sheds some light!

I honestly don’t know where this product will end up. About 70% of people fail (but not because of the product… because of test equipment, skill level, luck, etc).

 

[Squirg]

Ive been curious about the new Tweeters from Sonion so I reached out to them and this is what the Rep had to say...
The EST extends the bandwidth past human hearing. There is not much music above 8k or so… but there are harmonics well past 20k. The EST helps the earphone present the harmonics correctly… so actually the notes (the fundamentals) sound more true. A piano sounds more like a piano and so on.


The tweeter is nearly mass-less… so it is very difficult to use. You have to have the plumbing be just right. If not… there is no reason to use it… because none of the high frequencies will make it out the end of the ear tip. Calibrated test equipment good past 8k is a must (and few of our customers have this).


The usual design cycle goes something like this:

• I got the samples but they don’t work
• Send better samples
• I kept working with it and now I have some output…. This sucks
• Something is wrong

About two thirds of the people quit. About one third go on

• Getting some HF output, but need more output
• Padded mids… got the tubing right…
• IT WORKS… oh my… I have never heard anything sound so good.

Hope this sheds some light!

I honestly don’t know where this product will end up. About 70% of people fail (but not because of the product… because of test equipment, skill level, luck, etc).

He also said this:
The electrostatic we have is an engineering marvel. Works without a bias voltage. Has HF output to nearly 200k Hz. The output is low… but the output is well behaved (smooth frequency response with limited phase shift). In a properly designed earphone… the results can be breathtaking.


But for every earphone that’s done right… there is another earphone out there that has been done wrong. Very often a properly designed single driver universal fit can sound better than a custom shell three driver three way done wrong. There are people out there who think they can engineer something by force of will… if they wish hard enough their earphone will be better. There are no shortcuts. Design test listen test listen re-design… and so on. Tweak every part until it works the way it should. The electrostat follows the same rules only twice as hard to use.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Ive been curious about the new Tweeters from Sonion so I reached out to them and this is what the Rep had to say...
The EST extends the bandwidth past human hearing. There is not much music above 8k or so… but there are harmonics well past 20k. The EST helps the earphone present the harmonics correctly… so actually the notes (the fundamentals) sound more true. A piano sounds more like a piano and so on.


The tweeter is nearly mass-less… so it is very difficult to use. You have to have the plumbing be just right. If not… there is no reason to use it… because none of the high frequencies will make it out the end of the ear tip. Calibrated test equipment good past 8k is a must (and few of our customers have this).


The usual design cycle goes something like this:

• I got the samples but they don’t work
• Send better samples
• I kept working with it and now I have some output…. This sucks
• Something is wrong

About two thirds of the people quit. About one third go on

• Getting some HF output, but need more output
• Padded mids… got the tubing right…
• IT WORKS… oh my… I have never heard anything sound so good.

Hope this sheds some light!

I honestly don’t know where this product will end up. About 70% of people fail (but not because of the product… because of test equipment, skill level, luck, etc).

He also said this:
The electrostatic we have is an engineering marvel. Works without a bias voltage. Has HF output to nearly 200k Hz. The output is low… but the output is well behaved (smooth frequency response with limited phase shift). In a properly designed earphone… the results can be breathtaking.


But for every earphone that’s done right… there is another earphone out there that has been done wrong. Very often a properly designed single driver universal fit can sound better than a custom shell three driver three way done wrong. There are people out there who think they can engineer something by force of will… if they wish hard enough their earphone will be better. There are no shortcuts. Design test listen test listen re-design… and so on. Tweak every part until it works the way it should. The electrostat follows the same rules only twice as hard to use.

Already tried it...


The biggest advantage is not extension as said by sonion rep, but the effortlessness in producing details and the ability of not rolling off.

It feels more airier and more snappier compared to SWFK