[Choy Wei De]

I'm quite sure you shouldn't solder the KSE1500 wire onto an MMCX...

Sorry, I mean the normal knowles drivers.

 

[ForceMajeure]

There are rab 32257 that come pre wired from knowles. iirc even soundlink has them

 

[ninjadoc]

I have to ask since I'm ordering from Aliexpress - what components to you use for the Noble Savant DIY?
I'm going to try to do a MOM first since it is my first attempt.
My soldering skills are ok - I build custom mechanical keyboards (check geekhack.org) since I know everyone here likes to build stuff.
If someone feels MOM is not the first set to try = please comment.
Last question is earphone shells - which ones should I buy? Until I see how much building these interests me I'm not going to try making the molded ones. I don't want to fall all the way into the rabbit hole of custom IEM;s.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

I have to ask since I'm ordering from Aliexpress - what components to you use for the Noble Savant DIY?
I'm going to try to do a MOM first since it is my first attempt.
My soldering skills are ok - I build custom mechanical keyboards (check geekhack.org) since I know everyone here likes to build stuff.
If someone feels MOM is not the first set to try = please comment.
Last question is earphone shells - which ones should I buy? Until I see how much building these interests me I'm not going to try making the molded ones. I don't want to fall all the way into the rabbit hole of custom IEM;s.

ED29689 + 20 ohms resistor
2mm length clearance from spout -> Green Damper -> 3mm length towards the eardrum
(2mm ID tube)

ED30761
1.5mm length clearance from Sound outlet -> Red Damper -> 5.5mm length towards the eardrum
(2mm ID tube)

The tonality shifts due to rising impedance of this design. if paired with bad amp, then you will get honky mids(Not that much annoying, by the way)
low impedance source recommended

different type of resistor affect the sound
different specs of resistor affect the fine tuning

i use precision wire wound
some uses MELF

Precision wire wound is softer and more expansive, due to its slight inductance, which sorta smooths out micropeaks and treble harshness, and quietens things out, but i don't have any scientific claims as such
MELF resistor tends to go more direct and straightforward on signal


plus its better to have deep insertion or custom on noble savant diy

ED29689 can be replaced by Sonion 2354 with air pressure vent closed
that is more ideal as it has less rising impedance all over graph and sorta better extension.


for shell
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIY...959.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.8a0f2e0e4zFEOf


as you have build mechanical keyboard, you would be knowing where to source out PCB design, its better to have a PCB for design, as it would be easier to debug and will look cleaner and meaner from inside


as for MOM, i dont know which iem design it is
i know MASM(Most amazing set for mom)

 

[ninjadoc]

ED29689 + 20 ohms resistor
2mm length clearance from spout -> Green Damper -> 3mm length towards the eardrum
(2mm ID tube)

ED30761
1.5mm length clearance from Sound outlet -> Red Damper -> 5.5mm length towards the eardrum
(2mm ID tube)

The tonality shifts due to rising impedance of this design. if paired with bad amp, then you will get honky mids(Not that much annoying, by the way)
low impedance source recommended

different type of resistor affect the sound
different specs of resistor affect the fine tuning

i use precision wire wound
some uses MELF

Precision wire wound is softer and more expansive, due to its slight inductance, which sorta smooths out micropeaks and treble harshness, and quietens things out, but i don't have any scientific claims as such
MELF resistor tends to go more direct and straightforward on signal


plus its better to have deep insertion or custom on noble savant diy

ED29689 can be replaced by Sonion 2354 with air pressure vent closed
that is more ideal as it has less rising impedance all over graph and sorta better extension.


for shell
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIY...959.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.8a0f2e0e4zFEOf


as you have build mechanical keyboard, you would be knowing where to source out PCB design, its better to have a PCB for design, as it would be easier to debug and will look cleaner and meaner from inside


as for MOM, i dont know which iem design it is
i know MASM(Most amazing set for mom)

 

[ninjadoc]

Thank you.
Somewhere in my search a few called MASM MOM.
MASM was the one I was referring to.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Thank you.
Somewhere in my search a few called MASM MOM.
MASM was the one I was referring to.

difference between MASM and Noble Savant DIY

just a point of view(Take it as a grain of salt)
Noble Savant DIY is amazing set of piece in recreating the sound stage because it is Round like etymotic stage in structure, but expanded a lot in all direction while keeping the intimacy. from round, i mean things can pan to the back of head and above of head with ease. soundstage is referred to the space between in the instrument. it is a tonally pleasing and correct device but higher impedance amp can make the mids honky and treble brittle because impedance rise happens like a gradual increase from 500Hz all the way to 20khz in gradual rise while having peak in 2kHz. Bad amp will make lower mids honky, 2kHz glare bloom effect and treble peak worse.

DCR = 11.4ohms
Imp@200Hz = 12.9ohms
Imp@500Hz = 15.4ohms
Imp@2.5kHz(peak)= 28ohms


MASM is what i can say about less is more and my gem. Way flatter impedance, way more resolution(Leagues ahead for a IEM having RAB in my designs till now). Extension is higher and its like the whole music has got a very nice sharp filter and scale filter with tone correction. It sounds like DSP applied to a @Furco orignal GQ + RAB(It started from his design.....refer page 206). Soundstage is more on mids side rather than treble or bass side. So it creates something like Audeze mids. Bass is extended and is of good speed but mids shine here and tweeter is there to assist the response reach. But i think Savant is better for mixing as it is like Etymotic on certain music. Mine is like a vibrance effect

 

[SVTong]

@Ivan TT, What did you do for your RAF build? Series wiring? Vents open or closed? Dampers? I just wired up a pair of quad RAFs, and I'm debating on if I should vent them or not.

 

[eunice]

@Ivan TT, What did you do for your RAF build? Series wiring? Vents open or closed? Dampers? I just wired up a pair of quad RAFs, and I'm debating on if I should vent them or not.

Series seems to be @Ivan TT preferences.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/home-made-iems.430688/page-559#post-14803240
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/home-made-iems.430688/page-547#post-14769920

But @Ivan TT : How did you do the tubing, all 4 in one larger tube and then into a smaller tube?

Did you try the Zobel?

I would love to try it after finally building MASM.

 

[Ivan TT]

@Ivan TT, What did you do for your RAF build? Series wiring? Vents open or closed? Dampers? I just wired up a pair of quad RAFs, and I'm debating on if I should vent them or not.

Here’s RAB build, which is identical to RAF (of which I don’t have photos).

4 drivers are glued up together using B7000 glue, soldered in series. RAFs don’t come prewired, but are much easier and safer to solder compared to RABs, I used Estron LITZ wires and 4% silver solder.

Coupling tubes are 2mm ID 3.5 OD (thin one) and stretched 3mm ID (I believe, don’t have it handy to measure). Large tubes are pulled over drivers spouts and sealed using B7000 glue, small tubes glued into large ones using Loctite:

Drivers have their black fabric tuning filters removed as I am a bass head and bass is ridiculous with filter removed both on RAB and RAF, maybe only just a bit lacking in subbass compared to CI. I recommend tuning to your preference before you glue drivers in permanently, starting with them on and if bass is lacking remove one by one until satisfied.
Shells nozzles are filed to accomodate tubing, I also discovered (by accident) that tubing should terminate about half-way into the nozzle, this creates wonderful upper HF uplift on par with WBFK (maybe just a fraction less).
Green damper goes into tubes (I plan to try red too but I prefer warm sound, for some brown would provide more HF) and they are glued (or rather sealed) in using B7000 glue:

RAB and RAF builds together, this design is codenamed “4some”

I am still unsure which I prefer, RAF is more vivid and a bit V-shaped compared to RAB, RAB is more linear but has better resolution/details. Both are of End of Game sound quality level I believe.

All drivers sourced from Soundlink, shells from Tao, tubing from Tao and local home improvement store.

Did you try the Zobel?

Not yet, but have breadboard set up, 3.5mm in and out, x4 trimpots and ton of caps, just need to find time to experiment...

 

[SVTong]

Thanks for the write up - that's exactly what I was looking for. I should have my quad RAF assembled and shelled this weekend

 

[Ivan TT]

But RAB absolutely shines in 2 driver in series configuration, I call this design “DP” as it goes really deep into the ear canal

RAB has more slam and LF/HF density/extension in 2 driver in series than RAF in 4 driver configuration, at the expense of resolution/details where 4 driver sets are superior.

Should be able to take photos of internal design later on as ordered RABs to do 2 driver RAB set, but here’s some eye candy for you for now:

 

[dhruvmeena96]

But RAB absolutely shines in 2 driver in series configuration, I call this design “DP” as it goes really deep into the ear canal

RAB has more slam and LF/HF density/extension in 2 driver in series than RAF in 4 driver configuration, at the expense of resolution/details where 4 driver sets are superior.

Should be able to take photos of internal design later on as ordered RABs to do 2 driver RAB set, but here’s some eye candy for you for now:

Nice....
It looks amazing(universal to the core)

But don't you think dual wire braid is weak.

Because in my experience dual braids didn't last that much
All of them got broken from the earpiece wire sleeve(metal sleeve in your design).

The black one seems fine but I am worried for your silver one(I have bad times with loose dual braid or twist cable)


And my dual braid means dual from y split to earpiece

 

[Elnurjin]

Hello guys. Did anyone use RAB-32257 (Bellsing) and GK-31732 together? Did anyone have experience in reworking the crossover for this stuffing?

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Hello guys. Did anyone use RAB-32257 (Bellsing) and GK-31732 together? Did anyone have experience in reworking the crossover for this stuffing?

Its better you buy Knowles RAB because I have on bellsing RAB which stopped working plus RAB are not that expensive.


I have tried RAB32257 with DWFK, ED, GQ where RAB was zobelled and operated as a full range tone driver

RAB in my experience, with crossover, doesnt work that great

I will try GK by the way

By the way, I use RAB to cover up the missing response from other driver. As it has 3kHz peak and ED/GQ has 2.2kHz peak, it equates and give the gentle hump with 2.5kHz nearby peak, which sounds ideal as the rise of response become less edgy and more spread.

RAB also takes care of bass needs.


So my suggestion is design the GK first, find the things missing in it, and then add a RAB driver with specific parallel RC or zobel circuit to compensate the response cons.