Home-Made IEMs
Oct 12, 2018 at 2:17 PM Post #7,741 of 15,989
Oct 12, 2018 at 2:37 PM Post #7,742 of 15,989
Turns it into rab-32033, compare bass response of 32033:
https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data Sheets/Knowles Acoustics PDFs/RAB-32033-000.pdf
32257 are cheaper.
Oh, ok, So it seems the bass is reduced. The mids seem to stay the same. How does the more "sharp" curves (if that's a term) at about 3kHz translate into sound quality? I can see that the 32033 stays below 115db at that region, in contrary to the 32257, which seems to go a little higher. Does this reduce the treble quality, or it just makes it a little less pronounced? I am not very experienced at translating the graph information yet. How would you describe the sound of the non-tuning fabric RAB-32257? (Sorry for the many questions)
 
Oct 12, 2018 at 3:25 PM Post #7,744 of 15,989
Oh, ok, So it seems the bass is reduced. The mids seem to stay the same. How does the more "sharp" curves (if that's a term) at about 3kHz translate into sound quality? I can see that the 32033 stays below 115db at that region, in contrary to the 32257, which seems to go a little higher. Does this reduce the treble quality, or it just makes it a little less pronounced? I am not very experienced at translating the graph information yet. How would you describe the sound of the non-tuning fabric RAB-32257? (Sorry for the many questions)
No worries, I'm not that good with graphs either and never had 32033 so cannot compare.

As to the sound with tuning fabric removed (assuming that bass experiences uplift similar to 32033) it is closer to "golden ear" target, same applies to 3kHz peak, although I tamed the latter down with grey dampener on dual setup (single did not need it, but the shells were deep insertion, so probably not as much ear canal resonance/different frequency compared to dual).

Overall the sound is great and there's no crossover-related issues obviously. Compared to TF10 it is not as V-shaped, it's not unlike dynamic driver sound, dark, but very detailed, especially in HF and has faster and less bloated bass. I am not exactly a basshead, but like bass nevertheless and if you read feedback on Soundlink's ali store lack of bass is the only complain about 32257, but it's such an easy fix :wink:

Given that the total budget for my RAB-32257 dual was below $40 it's a no-brainer :L3000:
 
Oct 12, 2018 at 3:38 PM Post #7,745 of 15,989
No worries, I'm not that good with graphs either and never had 32033 so cannot compare.

As to the sound with tuning fabric removed (assuming that bass experiences uplift similar to 32033) it is closer to "golden ear" target, same applies to 3kHz peak, although I tamed the latter down with grey dampener on dual setup (single did not need it, but the shells were deep insertion, so probably not as much ear canal resonance/different frequency compared to dual).

Overall the sound is great and there's no crossover-related issues obviously. Compared to TF10 it is not as V-shaped, it's not unlike dynamic driver sound, dark, but very detailed, especially in HF and has faster and less bloated bass. I am not exactly a basshead, but like bass nevertheless and if you read feedback on Soundlink's ali store lack of bass is the only complain about 32257, but it's such an easy fix :wink:

Given that the total budget for my RAB-32257 dual was below $40 it's a no-brainer :L3000:

Thanks a lot for the info. It seems fabric-less is the way to go. In about a month I will receive my pair of drivers, and I will be ready to start building the earphones. I bought a set of green dampers, as I had the etymotics ER4XR configuration in mind, but I will definitely try your setup anyway, even with the green dampers. I will post my results here of course
 
Oct 13, 2018 at 3:47 AM Post #7,747 of 15,989
I suggest keeping fabric on initially and removing it only if you find bass lacking, after all the tip rolling.
Also, silver or silver plated cables have better synergy with 32257
Looking forward to you findings, take care!
Thanks for the suggestion, I guess you are right about the order. I have a fairly cheap, supposedly silver plated, cable from KZ, but I have ordered some silver plated teflon wire to make my own cable. Thanks for the help!
 
Oct 15, 2018 at 8:05 PM Post #7,748 of 15,989
No 3d printing here, just good old fashioned wax dipped impressions, investment from hydrocolloid, dark smoke Fotoplast SI O lv shells mixed using black resin obsession. Triple drivers wired GK style.

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Oct 16, 2018 at 12:15 PM Post #7,751 of 15,989
Sure
 

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Oct 16, 2018 at 10:47 PM Post #7,754 of 15,989
Bellsing released 5 driver setup, as has been mentioned here previously: 10025, AKA BRC281C10025.

It has 1 CI and 2xTWFKs, Bellsing versions of those drivers at least.

I acquired a pair and ended up with a bit of a ghetto setup, using nozzles I’ve got on tao sometime ago, with filters installed into 3 channels inside of the nozzle, red for CI, green for one TWFK and white for another.

It’s quite a nice sounding setup, lots of HF sparkle and solid bass (which I thought would be lacking based on FR graphs in datasheet).

Verdict: quite a good set, easy to implement and very economical, around $70 when on sale.

6-F099-E28-28-FC-4-C22-8-C27-5-C6-F9-C76-E501.jpg

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Oct 17, 2018 at 6:08 AM Post #7,755 of 15,989
Y-tubing story all over again... How do you guys deal with affecting frequency response while connecting two or more drivers to one tube?
For example: I glued vented 33AJ007i/9 as a low and 2380 as a mid/high together and stretched 2ID bore around two sound outlets. The connection was smooth - without any hops or sharp edges inside the bore. Then measure it - 3300 FR was almost the same, but 2389 changed significantly between 6 and 9 kHz (level was decreased) and more uneven than single 2389 FR with one bore. The damper makes thing even worse.
Another example - 2389 as mid and E25ST glued together and connected in the same way as 3300 and 2389. Now the 2389 FR looks almost good, but the lack of 6-9kHz is visible in E25ST Frequency response.
Same with 3800 and 3100. - 3100 with a gap between 5-10kHz.
Any ideas? Strange thing is that the problem is always on FR of this "smaller" driver in connected and glued pair. How do you deal with it? Or this is just the thing that is always happening and there is nothing to do about it...
 
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