[JoyjeetPanday]

It took so many tries for me to get the colours to work. I tried acrylic paint and UV resin dyes from ebay but my resin wouldn't cure. Later, I got a better UV light and tried acrylic ink and it worked like a charm. You need to experiment with how much you should put in. Put enough to make it opaque but not too much so that it won't cure.

Okay. Like Egger and Dreve etc are medically approved, wouldn't it be a problem to use acrylic paint? I have been thinking about this for quite a while as dye and acrylic paints a not really medical grade. Mostly they don't do any harm but probably not approved. Not sure about it. I have been considering alcohol ink and tattoo ink, but again not too sure.
Also for a 36W lamp how does the thickness of the shell vary with time if cured on a rotary stand and with a mirror on the open side? I'm using Egger LP/H Clear for shells.
Although I have red and blue for now but they're see-through. What other colourants could I consider for multiple colours, both see-through and opaque.
Thanks.

 

[ThanosD]

So, here they are, after the operation. The back of the hole is connected via a small piece of acoustic tubing to the back of the DD
IMG_20180902_001633[1] by Thanos D, on Flickr
IMG_20180902_001711[1] by Thanos D, on Flickr

Unfortunately, I cannot say that the low-frequency extension has been improved. Lows are very similar to what they were with the previous iteration. However, I think that the responsiveness (if that's a term) has been improved a bit. Even though my ears are not trained enough to determine the differences, I can tell it has improved slightly from before.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

So, here they are, after the operation. The back of the hole is connected via a small piece of acoustic tubing to the back of the DD
IMG_20180902_001633[1] by Thanos D, on Flickr
IMG_20180902_001711[1] by Thanos D, on Flickr

Unfortunately, I cannot say that the low-frequency extension has been improved. Lows are very similar to what they were with the previous iteration. However, I think that the responsiveness (if that's a term) has been improved a bit. Even though my ears are not trained enough to determine the differences, I can tell it has improved slightly from before.

I told you so..decay improves the most...

Vent on speaker improves bass because the vent output and speaker are in same room.

If you want to improve bass response, take the backwave of dynamic and put it in phase with forward and then throw that in your ear.... Which is very tough

 

[Choy Wei De]

Sorry but you misunderstood; I was saying that using a 18ohm resistor in series with an ED29689 driver means that the total impedance will be increased to around 30ohm instead of the original 7-10ohm.
You should try a lower value resistor (such as 4,7-8,2ohm) or just try using a cap without the resistor. I can't calculate now but a cap of around 0,1-0,3uF should work fine.

So using a cap as low pass filter, I should calculate the cap size using 7ohm in the calculation? Since ED29689 is 10ohm 500hz, 7ohm 1Khz.

 

[cyph3r]

Wow Sonion developed an electrostatic tweeter for IEMs! Just saw the production IEMs coming out of the Chinese manufacturers.

http://audio.sonion.com/electrostatic-tweeter/

Yep. Its been long in the making (the progress bar has been in the upper percentages since a while. Driver implementation though will require some skill given that the required transformer (ca 400V) will have to be accomodated (safely) in the shell along with the driver. Quite a lot of space will be needed. Not sure if the driver really is superior to what is already on the market (BAs and DDs dedicated to that frequency range).

 

[Xymordos]

I saw Oriolus and Alclair coming out with the new IEMs, Oriolus is 6 drivers. They said they used their self designed transformers rather than the one provided by Sonion.

Seems like the electrostatic drivers wont actually be too massive.

 

[ThanosD]

I told you so..decay improves the most...

Vent on speaker improves bass because the vent output and speaker are in same room.

If you want to improve bass response, take the backwave of dynamic and put it in phase with forward and then throw that in your ear.... Which is very tough

Yes, you were right. The other thing you suggested, yeah... I don't see how I could do it, there is very little room in there, because of the technique I used to make the shell, which isn't the best. Thanks for the help though, next time I will probably go full BA. Does anybody know how the bass of a CI-22955 compares to the bass of a normal Dynamic Driver?

 

[jbr1971]

Yes, you were right. The other thing you suggested, yeah... I don't see how I could do it, there is very little room in there, because of the technique I used to make the shell, which isn't the best. Thanks for the help though, next time I will probably go full BA. Does anybody know how the bass of a CI-22955 compares to the bass of a normal Dynamic Driver?

How did you connect the front side of your DD to your shell? Did you attach it to a tube to exit the nozzle like you would with a BA?

I did the following with a DD & have an incredible amount of bass with great extension, with no vent holes in the faceplate....

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Yes, you were right. The other thing you suggested, yeah... I don't see how I could do it, there is very little room in there, because of the technique I used to make the shell, which isn't the best. Thanks for the help though, next time I will probably go full BA. Does anybody know how the bass of a CI-22955 compares to the bass of a normal Dynamic Driver?

Try HODVTEC instead of CI

Faster, linear and more powerful response plus it can take some mids(lower) making some leeway for you ED, thus reducing more distortion due to wider band playback.

Or you can tune ED with https://www.head-fi.org/threads/diy-universal-iem-from-er4s-to-f111-and-beyond.718262/#post-10556761

Horn loaded.

Horn load your ED and then use a low and mid pass filter to tune it according to you.

Horn loading increase both lows and highs(highs on good level). This may make your ED behave like a big SWFK (with proper low End). Dont use foam resistor, try making a pass filter where you filter out highs according to taste.

Horn loading can also remove peakiness if done right and can reduce the energy of sound compared from the very small tube focusing everything.

You can use foam resistor but I never use it because it rolls of something important, which is 10kHz and makes BA band restricted driver.

 

[ThanosD]

How did you connect the front side of your DD to your shell? Did you attach it to a tube to exit the nozzle like you would with a BA?

I did the following with a DD & have an incredible amount of bass with great extension, with no vent holes in the faceplate....

Yeah, I just attached the acoustic tubing at the front of the driver. Here is a picture:
IMG_20180823_173448[1] by Thanos D, on Flickr

As you can see, the driver already had a cover, so it was easy. But giving him the extra space like you did, could have given me the bass I was expecting. I'll probably try it another time. How did you manage to put the whole DD in the acoustic tubing? I guess you used tubing of Bigger diameter only for the driver. But how did connect it to the normal tubing, and achieved the conical shape?

Try HODVTEC instead of CI

Faster, linear and more powerful response plus it can take some mids(lower) making some leeway for you ED, thus reducing more distortion due to wider band playback.

Or you can tune ED with https://www.head-fi.org/threads/diy-universal-iem-from-er4s-to-f111-and-beyond.718262/#post-10556761

Horn loaded.

Horn load your ED and then use a low and mid pass filter to tune it according to you.

Horn loading increase both lows and highs(highs on good level). This may make your ED behave like a big SWFK (with proper low End). Dont use foam resistor, try making a pass filter where you filter out highs according to taste.

Horn loading can also remove peakiness if done right and can reduce the energy of sound compared from the very small tube focusing everything.

You can use foam resistor but I never use it because it rolls of something important, which is 10kHz and makes BA band restricted driver.

Whoa, this is a great idea. I was planning on building a small in-ear pair, with some small houses made of wood, and with a single BA, ED-29689, or RAB-32257, and it could be an opportunity to implement a horn, and learn some things on horns in general. About the HODVTEC, the problem is that's double the price of the CI, but, if it's THAT better, I could find a workaround. But any new pairs of IEMs have to wait for next summer unfortunately, as in the following months all of my time will be reserved for studying. I might make the single BA pair in the next 2 weeks, as the year hasn't properly started yet and I have some time, and I will let you know. Between, the RAB and the ED, which one would you prefer (for full range use)? I think that the RAB is intended to be used as a single, full-range BA, or am I wrong?

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Yeah, I just attached the acoustic tubing at the front of the driver. Here is a picture:
IMG_20180823_173448[1] by Thanos D, on Flickr

As you can see, the driver already had a cover, so it was easy. But giving him the extra space like you did, could have given me the bass I was expecting. I'll probably try it another time. How did you manage to put the whole DD in the acoustic tubing? I guess you used tubing of Bigger diameter only for the driver. But how did connect it to the normal tubing, and achieved the conical shape?





Whoa, this is a great idea. I was planning on building a small in-ear pair, with some small houses made of wood, and with a single BA, ED-29689, or RAB-32257, and it could be an opportunity to implement a horn, and learn some things on horns in general. About the HODVTEC, the problem is that's double the price of the CI, but, if it's THAT better, I could find a workaround. But any new pairs of IEMs have to wait for next summer unfortunately, as in the following months all of my time will be reserved for studying. I might make the single BA pair in the next 2 weeks, as the year hasn't properly started yet and I have some time, and I will let you know. Between, the RAB and the ED, which one would you prefer (for full range use)? I think that the RAB is intended to be used as a single, full-range BA, or am I wrong?

Try to master the art of single driver... Once you get it right, then all other drivers are just extension to that. One full range BA you tuned can be band passed plus imagine a horn boosting treble without adding distortion to BA and then you filter out treble and bass from it to act as a mid driver, you are actually lowering the distortion by huge margin plus adding a headroom for more energy. That is why I dont use resistor and tune manually.

I prefer RAB as it is smaller, easier and more extended on both side, but ED does mid better.

But I prefer sonion 2300 for full range application as it lies between these two

 

[ThanosD]

Try to master the art of single driver... Once you get it right, then all other drivers are just extension to that. One full range BA you tuned can be band passed plus imagine a horn boosting treble without adding distortion to BA and then you filter out treble and bass from it to act as a mid driver, you are actually lowering the distortion by huge margin plus adding a headroom for more energy. That is why I don't use resistor and tune manually.

I prefer RAB as it is smaller, easier and more extended on both side, but ED does mid better.

But I prefer sonion 2300 for full range application as it lies between these two

Hmm, good point. Regarding the bandpass filter, space is a problem, as I will have to add 2 resistors and 2 caps, in addition to the other 2 drivers, which could be an issue, as my ear is probably not big enough. Or is there another way to implement a band pass? For the single BA, I was leaning to the RAB too, and I will probably go with it, as it is cheap too. As far as Sonion drivers go, I would love to hear one of them, but getting my hands on them is pretty much impossible. How did u manage to get one? I read that you can only order bulk, and that's something I cannot do.

 

[jbr1971]

Yeah, I just attached the acoustic tubing at the front of the driver. Here is a picture:

As you can see, the driver already had a cover, so it was easy. But giving him the extra space like you did, could have given me the bass I was expecting. I'll probably try it another time. How did you manage to put the whole DD in the acoustic tubing? I guess you used tubing of Bigger diameter only for the driver. But how did connect it to the normal tubing, and achieved the conical shape?

The DD is not actually in tubing. I took a rigid silicone ear tip & cut it down so the DD just fit inside, then used Bondic to secure it. I also cut the inner stem out. Once the stem was gone, the tubing just fit that hole & I secured it as well. I have an idea for a "capsule" I'm going to try to 3D print for the next time I use a DD to fully cover it.

 

[ThanosD]

The DD is not actually in tubing. I took a rigid silicone ear tip & cut it down so the DD just fit inside, then used Bondic to secure it. I also cut the inner stem out. Once the stem was gone, the tubing just fit that hole & I secured it as well. I have an idea for a "capsule" I'm going to try to 3D print for the next time I use a DD to fully cover it.

Oh, that's clever. I might try it in another project. Would this alone improve the bass response of the driver?

 

[jbr1971]

Oh, that's clever. I might try it in another project. Would this alone improve the bass response of the driver?

Hard to say. I haven't done any comparison measurements. However, given the extra air pocket in front of the driver within the tip, I believe there is a good possibility.