[MuZo2]

Jedrula1 you are now pro at CIEM making.

 

[rendyG]

Hi guys, after doing a research (not only here) I want to build my first iem.
I would like to start with something cheap and simple: single BA in probably KZ ZS3 shell? (I read it is comfortable and afaik the cheapest shell with removable cable, but I´m open to your recommendations)
My biggest question is which driver to use. Either the old ED-29689 from ER4 or some of the newer RAB series? I like a neutral sound, but I think I may appreciate the slight bass boost of the RAB-332257 (ER4XR?), because I want to use these when commuting.
Other than that, is there anything else I need to buy? I have a soldering iron and basic soldering skills.
What about the resistors, tubing and dampers? I´ve seen the green 1500ohm recommended usually, but I´m not sure about the resistor, which one to choose and why.
I don´t think I need some epoxy or special glue for my first project.. afterall, I like to tinker with headphones and I just want to try and see what is possible in the "iem world".
I think I will buy the parts from Ali - Soundlink, seems like a reliable seller, right? If my first project goes well, I´m going to consider some multi-BA project, but in ready-made shell, at first..

Thank you for your help!

 

[Caluub]

Hello everyone,

Is Loctite 495 better than other low viscosity Loctite formulations? Is there a particular reason to use 495?

 

[Caluub]

This is my attempt at a right ear impression. I was nervous about inserting the otoblock any further but I think it needed to be a few millimeters deeper. Is this a usable impression or do I need to go further beyond the second bend?

 

[Ivan TT]

I like a neutral sound, but I think I may appreciate the slight bass boost of the RAB-332257

These are amazingly good for the price and simplicity of making DIY IEM.
I remove tuning fabric on the bass port though, this gives them sweet bass uplift, essentially turning them into RAB-32033.

 

[Vetseun]

To the folks using Agar for their investment, any tips on getting the shells out without cracking the negative mold?

Tried my first shells tonight using clear fotoplast. First cure was a little short/shell too thin, second cure went much better and got really nice shell thickness and the shells came out nice and clear.

After I removed it from the alcohol I noticed 2 little hairline surface imperfections. When I looked at the mold I saw it had split... so I have to redo that mold I suspect. Any tips on avoiding it next time round?

Final questions... my process thus using clear fotoplast in a 4xCFL nail UV lamp. 1) 1:30min initial cure. 2) dump excess and put back in for a further 3 mins (shell is empty and opening is facing up so light gets into hole). 3) Take out of mold and put in glycerin bath - cure for 10 mins 4) into a alcohol bath to finish up.

Anything in the above against the latest thinking here? Any other tips?

Thanks!!

 

[fahadj2003]

quick question, whats a good replacement for sony's "supertweeter" ? ie something that can go beyond 20khz.
and every speaker can do 1hz to 20hz (and its noticeable) with the right amplification. but how does one go about doing that?
2 woofers of same kind, with same cut off, that superimpose and add to the lower end? or is there a way to make a mini-amplifier?
im trying to DIY something as flat as possible and as wide as possible, with respect to FR range.

 

[Vetseun]

First successful shells - I think?! I'd appreciate some feedback on the clarity of these shells? They look glass-like clear when wet (i.e. coming out of the glycerin), but they're not perfectly clear when dry.

I guess I'm not sure what's possible, so not sure what should I be striving for? Can these be improved on from a "straight out of the mold" point of view? Or are these good and the rest is down to finishing (i.e. polishing/lacquering) these shells?

 

[Jedrula1]

First successful shells - I think?! I'd appreciate some feedback on the clarity of these shells? They look glass-like clear when wet (i.e. coming out of the glycerin), but they're not perfectly clear when dry.

I guess I'm not sure what's possible, so not sure what should I be striving for? Can these be improved on from a "straight out of the mold" point of view? Or are these good and the rest is down to finishing (i.e. polishing/lacquering) these shells?

They looks pretty good right now. You really need some sanding and polishing or lacquer to get glass-transparent shiny shell. Best and easiest way is to get Lak3.

 

[Vetseun]

They looks pretty good right now. You really need some sanding and polishing or lacquer to get glass-transparent shiny shell. Best and easiest way is to get Lak3.

Thanks! I've got some Lack3 on the way!!

Has anyone got any experience with Bellsing? My first build will use Knowles GVs. I noted yesterday that Soundlink now has this listed 5 driver listed - https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...arphones-Hearing-Aids/830007_32906331761.html

Looks like a GK type with an additional TWFK type. Has anyone had any experience with this BA? Looks intriguing!

 

[dhruvmeena96]

i was floored by Warbler Audio Prelude and Ocharaku iem recently(Co donguri kaede ti plus dual)

now i think i am going with only one driver iem.

tell me an amazing driver

warbler prelude has a Sonion 23xx(dont remember the exact no., but who cares, all sonion 23 series sound nearly the same) and from my point, the only con it had was the extension on both side. the tuning was amazing, and now i think i can sort of get that sort of tuning without the use of damper or resistors because i got inspired by ocharaku tech on dealing freq. which i am going to apply on BA

 

[Squirg]

Thanks! I've got some Lack3 on the way!!

Has anyone got any experience with Bellsing? My first build will use Knowles GVs. I noted yesterday that Soundlink now has this listed 5 driver listed - https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...arphones-Hearing-Aids/830007_32906331761.html

Looks like a GK type with an additional TWFK type. Has anyone had any experience with this BA? Looks intriguing!

So far, I’ve had really good experiences with Bellsing. Their TWFK30017 seems to be spot on!

 

[ThanosD]

So, I after reading A LOT of pages of this thread, I got inspired enough to create my own IEMs. I went with something simple, and as low cost as possible. However, because in Greece, things like photoplast, uv curing resin, and of course a way to buy BAs, and generally any drivers and random parts directly is practically impossible, I decided to try another method, with whatever was more easy to get my hands on. So, I made my shells for epoxy resin. I know its not the best material, as it's not medically approved, but I didn't show any kind of allergic reaction, so I went with it. However
you shouldn't use any kind of material that is not medically tested. I am responsible for myself and only for myself. You could really cause harm to yourself.

I got my impressions done by a professional of course, and then I made a copy of it using some dental grade silicone, as a close person to me was kind enough to provide some. The problem with this silicone was that it was too hard (like 50shore), and I ended up with the one impression destroyed. However, now I had the silicone mold.

Then I went on with the epoxy. The first try went horribly wrong. It seems my scale was a little bit off, and the casting ended up not hard at all. The second try, went substantially better. This time I got the measurements right, and added coloring. I also did the next step, carving out the inside of the shell with a dremel, and some diamond bits.
IMG_20180821_181345 by Thanos D, on Flickr

However, I decided that I wasn't particularly happy with the result. The underside came out a little bit strange.

IMG_20180821_181357 by Thanos D, on Flickr

So I decided to do the process a third time, and this time I added just a little bit of blue dye, so that they would come out blue semi-transparent. The final result I thik was pretty good.

IMG_20180821_180130 by Thanos D, on Flickr

IMG_20180821_180139 by Thanos D, on Flickr

The only thing that I didn't manage to do was to polish the inside of the shells to make them transparent. The diamond bit left a too harsh finish, and if I were to sand it more, I would have gotten through the shell.

After the shells were done, it was time for the faceplates. As I wasn't using photoplast, I couldn't make them the normal way. So, I encased some celluloid (it is commonly used for guitar picks) in the same resin, but with no coloring this time.

IMG_20180830_200542 by Thanos D, on Flickr
Then I dremeled away the excess and I finally had 2 beautiful faceplates

.

IMG_20180821_180346 by Thanos D, on Flickr

IMG_20180821_180212 by Thanos D, on Flickr

IMG_20180821_180202 by Thanos D, on Flickr

Then was time for assembling the internals. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the internals, because I was so frustrated trying to fit in a 8mm, DD and the BA, that I forgot to take any. My choice was a 8mm DD from KZ for my woofer, and a Knowels ED-26784 for my mid-range/tweeter. I know these are probably not the best choices, but they were fairly cheap (bought from aliexpress), and this pair was more like a "proof of concept". So, I used a red damper and a 4.7Kohm resistor for my low pass filter, as the DD was full range, and no filter for the BA . I used acoustic tubing from ebay, sold as "BTE Hearing Aid Earmold Tube". For connectors, I went with MMCX, as I had a bad experience with the 2-pin from my KZ ZS3 (one of the connectors developed a small crack, and now the cable is barely held in place), and with a fairly cheap, but seemingly good quality mmcx cable from KZ again. The mmcx female connectors are right-angled, because I needed some extra grip.

The final result I think is pretty good. Sound wise, they sound surprisingly good, compared to the ZS3 and ATE at least. The soundstage is fairly wide, and it has GOOD seperation. I used them even for some Rainbow Six Siege sessions, and I was pretty amazed. Highs are good too, but a little bit harsh for my taste. The thing that I am most dissapointed with is the bass. I expected a good bass response because of the DD, but for some reason, there is very little. There is some mid-bass, but not much sub-bass. Maybe it's because I am used to the ZS3 bass heavy sound. But for my first time, I am pretty happy about their performance and how they turned out.
IMG_20180830_182830 by Thanos D, on Flickr
IMG_20180830_182934 by Thanos D, on Flickr
IMG_20180830_182848 by Thanos D, on Flickr
IMG_20180830_183214 by Thanos D, on Flickr
IMG_20180830_182801 by Thanos D, on Flickr

EDIT: How can I upload photos directly?
EDIT2: Sorry for the multiple edits, I am new around here.

 

[stackleberg]

My first pairs of DIEMs. Took me a while to make and lots of trial and error but here they are!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuvb78lw67322sq/36639853_10155632081173404_2694860238984577024_n.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o578lvpr2zocfbu/37173045_10155658336233404_8232952995009003520_n.jpg?dl=0

 

[Ivan TT]

Thanks! I've got some Lack3 on the way!!

Has anyone got any experience with Bellsing? My first build will use Knowles GVs. I noted yesterday that Soundlink now has this listed 5 driver listed - https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...arphones-Hearing-Aids/830007_32906331761.html

Looks like a GK type with an additional TWFK type. Has anyone had any experience with this BA? Looks intriguing!

Thanks for heads up, at this price and with extra sale discount... Ordered!