[Lucas Taboada]

Did you use wax? Is impression after pouring agar material covered with sticked bubbles? The proper procedure was described in this thread dozen times - everything matters. Do not pour glycerin inside the shell after first cure. Flip the cast upside down and cure it again. Then carefully take the shell out (do not touch the inner surface of the shell) and dip it in glycerin - then cure again. Hope it will help you!

Yeah, I'm using wax and doing everything you said plus pouring glycerin inside the shell too, and from what i've understood i'm getting these bubbles when i'm dipping the whole shell into glycerin, they look ok before that.

I've found a Shiloh's post here where he wrote that he doesn't dip his shell into glycerin, just pour inside the shell, and if the seal between the negative and the shell stays intact it should be ok. I don't know if he's still doing that way, but I will give it a try.

 

[Jedrula1]

Yeah, I'm using wax and doing everything you said plus pouring glycerin inside the shell too, and from what i've understood i'm getting these bubbles when i'm dipping the whole shell into glycerin, they look ok before that.

I've found a Shiloh's post here where he wrote that he doesn't dip his shell into glycerin, just pour inside the shell, and if the seal between the negative and the shell stays intact it should be ok. I don't know if he's still doing that way, but I will give it a try.

It will be easier to help you if you upload a photo

 

[Portofly]

Hey, guys. Never run into this before, but I've got a set of GVs that I'm wiring up for a friend's set. Everything seems normal. TWFK is on the left side and I'm soldering them onto MMCX connectors (first time using). With MMCX you do positive lead to the center post and the second to one of the corners correct? one of them is working correctly and the other is getting no output from either side. Any ideas on troubleshooting?

 

[Squirg]

Hey, guys. Never run into this before, but I've got a set of GVs that I'm wiring up for a friend's set. Everything seems normal. TWFK is on the left side and I'm soldering them onto MMCX connectors (first time using). With MMCX you do positive lead to the center post and the second to one of the corners correct? one of them is working correctly and the other is getting no output from either side. Any ideas on troubleshooting?

Yes. Positive is the middle post and any other side is negative. I usually clip the posts that I am not using to make it easier to solder. Double check solder points. Post a pic.

 

[Portofly]

Yes. Positive is the middle post and any other side is negative. I usually clip the posts that I am not using to make it easier to solder. Double check solder points. Post a pic.

I'll toss one up when I get home. Though I think I may not have stripped the litz well on this driver and may have just "tinned" the covering if that makes sense. for some reason I thought the wire was exposed, but I'm pretty sure that was a silly thought. I used a thicker wire on my last few builds, so for some reason it wasn't as obvious to me as it should have been.

 

[Jedrula1]

Got them already! Now gonna test, and see how they works. Looking the same as inks that JHaudio uses.

 

[FlyinUte]

The future of shell making?

 

[Portofly]

https://imgur.com/a/STbSYWf#pHlqj2i

set of customs that I finished for a friend yesterday. Pretty excited with how they turned out. Still having a hard time making my sound holes pretty. I just hate the way that the tubing shows up in front and doesn't look like it blends with the rest of the shell. I'm open to suggestions!

Now for the question. while I was setting the drivers in the shells, I had trouble keeping the tube for the low end from kinking. I brought them to my buddy yesterday and he told me that it didn't sound like the low end was coming through correctly on the left side, so I took them home, preparing to cut them open, pull the drivers, re tube, and re shell them, but I knew that his ears were JUUUST similar enough to mine that I could shove them in and get a good seal. I tested them with a few songs that I'm familiar with, and then with a normal frequency response test (hearing only since I don't yet have a measuring rig) and I seriously don't hear a difference between the two. situation mechanically is this. The one that he said wasn't "hitting" was the right side, but the one that may have a kink in the low driver tube would be the right. Does this make sense? am I losing my mind? is it possible that when I was doing Lak3 I could have gotten a little in the tube and it could have worked itself out between when he heard them and when I checked on them?

 

[AmG7]

Hey guys I’m new in this post sorry for my english, I’m thinking doing a 1 driver set for my first ciem so what do you guys think that driver could be
My first thought was a CI-22955 because I want the low end and for what I read it could work so what do you recommend, and as a full 1 driver it’s recommended to do with or without dampers/crossover also I don’t know where do I get the cable and the connectors (MMCX) 1 pin or 2 pin its just preference or has any advantages one over another so Westone ? eBay ? And what kind works best
Thanks

 

[Jedrula1]

Hey guys I’m new in this post sorry for my english, I’m thinking doing a 1 driver set for my first ciem so what do you guys think that driver could be
My first thought was a CI-22955 because I want the low end and for what I read it could work so what do you recommend, and as a full 1 driver it’s recommended to do with or without dampers/crossover also I don’t know where do I get the cable and the connectors (MMCX) 1 pin or 2 pin its just preference or has any advantages one over another so Westone ? eBay ? And what kind works best
Thanks

Hello there! First of all - use search option. Everything you asked was mentioned before dozen times.
In a nutshell - Ci is great for bass and mids but is lack of highs - look at the FR. Better way is to pay more and buy TWFK or GQ (two driver modules). GQ doesn't need a crossover, the TWFK needs simple one - lot of design was mentioned in this topic. With dampers you will get a better result (depending on what result you wanna get), I prefer 2pin sockets in my constructions due to better reliability, but it is harder to install them. MMCX has such a one specified position, where signal can disappear for the moment.
Fingers crossed for your first pair!

 

[Portofly]

Hey guys, I've been searching for a post on where to build up the IEM to get a good seal. I believe the author was Forcemajeure but I could be wrong. Its driving me nuts, and I've been searching for days.

 

[ForceMajeure]

Hey guys, I've been searching for a post on where to build up the IEM to get a good seal. I believe the author was Forcemajeure but I could be wrong. Its driving me nuts, and I've been searching for days.

ask me what you want to know here.

 

[ForceMajeure]

Got them already! Now gonna test, and see how they works. Looking the same as inks that JHaudio uses.

Looking forward to see the results as well. If I am correct these will give you opaque colors. maybe I am wrong though

 

[Jedrula1]

Alright, big dye review time! Not so positive as I expected tho... I tested alcohol ink (well known on this forum) and Bloodline Tattoo ink (probably the same as JHaudio use).

First - Alcohol ink:
Mixed instantly. Without any problem. But there is first, and only one, but important problem - at the top of coloured liquid resin there is a thin layer of reflecting dyed resin in ugly pinkish/yellowish/orangish strange colour. Tried to make proper photos using high quality camera - it was hard, but I hope you will understand what I am talking about. The colour of resin is slightly different than the dye itself, especially using 'State' colour - should be grey, the resin unfortunately turns green. After curing (muuuuch harder and longer to get proper thickness shell) the shells are also with this ugly glow that is visible the most in sunlight. It is totally undesirable effect. I will be so grateful for all tips from people that are using alcohol inks what to do to prevent this effect. Photos:

Amethyst colour - very nice at the beginning (a drop dried on the paper), but this glow visible inside the uncured resin and shell as well...

Next the 'Crimson' colour. Same situation - ugly orangish blur in liquid and cured resin:

And the worst result. The target was to get the smoky grey transparent shell end i get... grassy green... c'mon what i am doing wrong...

Then, the Bloodline Tattoo inks. Mixing - very hard. It is almost impossible to get transparent colour. The dye doesn't mix, only creates really small droplets inside resin. Cures very well tho. This dye is not proper to get transparent shell - as it is showed in the picture below the resin is covered with thousands small dots - unmixed dye. Didn't have time to test this dye to make opaque colours - will try it in the nearest future.

All dyes was mixed with Dreve Fotoplast SI O, not covered with Lack 3. If anybody has any idea what to do to improve colouring transparent resin I will be very grateful. Also - all suggestions about other dyes are very welcome

 

[ForceMajeure]

regarding the glow like colors you get using the alcohol ink, my guess is that those dyes have a mix of colors in them and one of them is fluorescent reactant. meaning when part of the light spectrum hits it, the color you see will changed slightly. it's part of the color that was used. I had various dyes (not alcohol) and one of them was pink. that pink has a different color depending on where you look at it. it even had a fluorescent green/yellow tint, kinda of the same thing you are experiencing.

I don't think you can do anything about it. I guess parts of those alcohol dyes have those colors embedded in them.