[Jedrula1]

Got some good news for those that are in Europe and have problem with getting Egger or Dreve resin, or is just too expensive. There is a company called Bachmaier that produces resin future-tec UV/H. It is slightly cheaper than Egger or Dreve. In comparison to Dreve Fotoplast, the Bachmaier is more viscous and, when clear, a little bit more yellowish. The polymerysation time is slightly shorter. The wall thicknes is a little bit less constant. Is bubble-free - after mixing with dye should stay alone for 3-4 hours, and all bubbles disappear. When it comes to the final effect the shell made with Bachmaier resin looks really good, almost as good as Dreve.

Also, how many drops of alcohol ink do you add to the resin to get good colour and not to have problems with curing? After adding alcohol ink to fotoplast the curing is almost impossible.

 

[MuZo2]

[QUOTE=" Bachmaier is more viscous and, when clear, a little bit more yellowish. [/QUOTE]

Where do you buy it? is it available to private persons or only to labs?

 

[Jedrula1]

Where do you buy it? is it available to private persons or only to labs?

Directly at the Bachmeier webpage. Just mail them and they should give you customer number and password. That is what I did and i have no company.
Here are some photos of CIEMs that I made using this resin:

 

[tarhana]

guys can you take a look at this impressions please?

https://imgur.com/a/yRDyQFH

they're my first impressions and my audiologist wasn't experienced with iem impressions.

do you think they're usable or do i need new impressions? inner shell looks decent but left one's faceplate looks small to me.

thank you!

 

[Jedrula1]

guys can you take a look at this impressions please?

https://imgur.com/a/yRDyQFH

they're my first impressions and my audiologist wasn't experienced with iem impressions.

do you think they're usable or do i need new impressions? inner shell looks decent but left one's faceplate looks small to me.

thank you!

They are really decent and good enough. Of course you have to cut and shape them properly.

 

[tarhana]

They are really decent and good enough. Of course you have to cut and shape them properly.

thanks man.

btw your iems look magnificent. both of them single ba?

 

[Jedrula1]

btw your iems look magnificent. both of them single ba?

Thanks dude! One of them (blue faceplate) uses Sonion 26-E25WT02/9 module (it is 2-way module with Accupass technology). Second one is 1723WT03 module and 33AJ007i/9 added with my own crossover, so it makes it 4-driver 3-way earphone, but due to very small ear canal of customer there is only one soundtube.

 

[rantng]

guys can you take a look at this impressions please?

https://imgur.com/a/yRDyQFH

they're my first impressions and my audiologist wasn't experienced with iem impressions.

do you think they're usable or do i need new impressions? inner shell looks decent but left one's faceplate looks small to me.

thank you!

Snip the foam off and pop them back in your ears to see how they feel. You should be able to tell if there isn't a proper seal.

 

[Andrumgt]

Snip the foam off and pop them back in your ears to see how they feel. You should be able to tell if there isn't a proper seal.

Great idea! NOT!

Dont do that, your impressions are perfect, just trim them and you’ll be set to go.

 

[tarhana]

Thanks dude! One of them (blue faceplate) uses Sonion 26-E25WT02/9 module (it is 2-way module with Accupass technology). Second one is 1723WT03 module and 33AJ007i/9 added with my own crossover, so it makes it 4-driver 3-way earphone, but due to very small ear canal of customer there is only one soundtube.

interesting. accupass drivers have one sprout right? and how did you get your hands on sonion

i will bother you guys last time i swear (at least for impressions lol)

can you guys take a look please? i trimmed, now they fit my ears. nozzle feels little bit long, where should i cut them?

https://imgur.com/a/zhqxGrb

 

[Jedrula1]

can you guys take a look please? i trimmed, now they fit my ears. nozzle feels little bit long, where should i cut them?

After second bend - not too far. Your is just too long. Just leave 1mm or 2mm - will be enough. Somebody posted this picture on this forum before. Hope it will help you.

 

[rantng]

Great idea! NOT!

Dont do that, your impressions are perfect, just trim them and you’ll be set to go.

He had to snip off the foam anyway. And there’s absolutely no reason not to put them back in his ears. If they are loose then he won’t get a proper seal and the shell will be a bad fit and he’d have to start all over.

 

[rggz]

Damn, I've got a pair of RABs but something went wrong, the bass is heavily distorted and everything else is fine. I thought that could be the tubbing or dampers problem, but even without tubbing the bass still pretty distorted.

I'm trying to figure out what I could have done to damage it and I remember to raise my iron solder temperature station because the tinned cable wasn't melting, maybe the iron too hot could've been the problem? That was like 2 taps (1sec) to solder it. Anyway... that sensation of burning money is horrible, but... move on now.

 

[Jedrula1]

Does anybody has the problem with Dreve Fotoplast and alcohol ink? There are two problems. First one - curing time. It is almost impossible to get a faceplate with decent thickness. Could It be a problem with curing unit (just two nail lamps connected into one, curing time of clear Fotoplast is around 80sec, no problem with good wall thickness)? Second one is visible at the photo below. After curing the shell coloured with alcohol ink in shadow (upper shells) colour is great (left side - Crimson, right side - Amethyst). But when shells are illuminated with sun or some light there is strange pinkish/orangish shadow (shells at the bottom). Looks really not good.

The most surprising thing is that Shiloshjustice uses the same colour (Amethyst) with a great results. What are your proportions, curing time and curing unit or some protips working with Fotoplast and alkohol inks?

 

[vladstef]

Damn, I've got a pair of RABs but something went wrong, the bass is heavily distorted and everything else is fine. I thought that could be the tubbing or dampers problem, but even without tubbing the bass still pretty distorted.

I'm trying to figure out what I could have done to damage it and I remember to raise my iron solder temperature station because the tinned cable wasn't melting, maybe the iron too hot could've been the problem? That was like 2 taps (1sec) to solder it. Anyway... that sensation of burning money is horrible, but... move on now.

I had the same issue. Mine was caused by dropping it on the floor from table. Tried to fix it by dropping it again and it ended up being worse. I laughed off my stupidity and then, I found a song where the distortion was happening at a certain volume - it was very quiet yet bass was distorted.
I started hitting it against the flat hard surface, holding the ba with one finger and slamming it on the table, obviously you need more fingers to hold it in the air but as you are pushing down, one finger is needed. It got worse again so I switched sides (one has the vent, other has model number - tried to keep the membrane inside horizontal). And voila, it started distorting at a higher volume. I started increasing the intensity of the whole process, sometimes I'd hold it a bit in the air and trust it down or I'd just poke it with my finger as strongly as I could - it would get glued to the underside of my fingertip enough to be slightly lifted with each motion of my finger, only to be slammed back to the table again.

It took me a solid hour of hitting the poor (im)balanced armature to death until it was fixed - to the point that it distorts at a higher volume compared to the other fully working side (only audible when a lot of sub bass at ear piercing volume is used).

I haven't read this thread fully but if someone somewhere did the same thing as I did, it would've been posted here. The only thing that I was not certain of is whether every small slam contributed to fixing of the driver or was it only the really hard ones that did the work - is there like a treshold of how much force you'd need to use to actually change stuff inside the BA. I must've hit the poor thing a thousand times, not exaggerating, tested it every 50 hits or so


Feels good having a super power. Being the 'balanced armature whisperer' is making me hear things from these illusive designs, and I am not talking about distortion here. Sorry for terrible puns, had to be done