[NaiveSound]

yes the width and length of the bores will probably change the sound slightly. you could do it yourself if you don't fear of "ruining" the silicone impressions in case it doesn't work out. you just need to cut the impressions about here

do the cut in steps so you can check the length you want. then use a small bit to create a bore and use wider bits slowly until you get at least a 3/4mm diameter bore. on the back side enlarge the hole slightly so it accommodate the nozzle of your iem. you could always make it wider and use a shrink tube so it fits the diameter of your iem's nozzle and glue the shrink tube in your custom tip

You are such a major help, I really really really appreciate it.

Here are a few more pictures, would you mind drawing a line at different angles to show me where to cut. Also how do I drill, with a powered drill bit?

 

[Makahl]

Guys, out of curiosity has anyone tested the B-7000 glue? I've been surfing through some Chinese DIY pages and this glue apparently it's pretty popular out there. I was going to buy Loctite 495 as suggested by @Shilohsjustice but the B-7000 is considerably cheaper here in my country.

 

[macglide]

Hey,

I've made a couple of shells so far but I allways get some roundish indentations, maybe a 1/10th of a millimeter deep. (See attached photo, I outlined the structures)

I rinsed the forms after removing the impressions, but I let them dry for a couple of hours upside down to make sure that no water is left inside.

Do you guys have an idea what would cause this?

 

[Choy Wei De]

Guys, out of curiosity has anyone tested the B-7000 glue? I've been surfing through some Chinese DIY pages and this glue apparently it's pretty popular out there. I was going to buy Loctite 495 as suggested by @Shilohsjustice but the B-7000 is considerably cheaper here in my country.

I used it on my first pair, which is also my current one. My best explanation is that it’s like a very slow super glue. And the adhesive is between a superglue and normal glue. I leave it overnight to let it completely harden. But it will become jelly like or softer once you mix it with water.

 

[ForceMajeure]

You are such a major help, I really really really appreciate it.

Here are a few more pictures, would you mind drawing a line at different angles to show me where to cut. Also how do I drill, with a powered drill bit?

You'll need a dremel for drilling at least and I recommend using these kind of diamond burrs

make sure you start with a small one and enlarge the whole slowly. regarding were to cut you should aim to something like this

here you can see how it should sit in your ear.

This is the major part that will make the seal. If you cut it too short you'll loose your seal. That's why you should cut it slowly and check.

 

[NaiveSound]

OK will do, idk what I should get off amazon as far as tools and if they work ok with the silicone I have.

Would you be kind to link me up something affordable on Amazon??

 

[NaiveSound]

You'll need a dremel for drilling at least and I recommend using these kind of diamond burrs

make sure you start with a small one and enlarge the whole slowly. regarding were to cut you should aim to something like this

here you can see how it should sit in your ear.

This is the major part that will make the seal. If you cut it too short you'll loose your seal. That's why you should cut it slowly and check.

Aditionally the tia fourte has very small bore. How should I build my tip considering the bore of the iem?

Here is a picture to show how small the bore is

 

[leapof]

Hey,

I've made a couple of shells so far but I allways get some roundish indentations, maybe a 1/10th of a millimeter deep. (See attached photo, I outlined the structures)

I rinsed the forms after removing the impressions, but I let them dry for a couple of hours upside down to make sure that no water is left inside.

Do you guys have an idea what would cause this?

That's because there is air between the shell and the negative during the curing process

 

[robervaul]

Anyone?
Mini SLA Resin 3D Printer

https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=21824&seq=1&format=2

 

[chaturanga]

Can someone share best online sites to buy original high quality dynamic drivers?

I am looking for 9mm or 10mm drivers (Titanium or Gold diaphgrams).

Thanks.

 

[cyph3r]

Anyone?
Mini SLA Resin 3D Printer

https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=21824&seq=1&format=2

looks pretty cool, but careful, the devils are in the details
-> i could not readily find many reviews on this, I would wait on for more experience with this machine.
-> max resolution and printing speed may only be applicable under certain circumstance
-> small form factor will mean a small tray which in turn limits the amount of printing capacity.
-> it says it's good for printing medical / dental models. However, biocompatibility not requires a particular resin quality but usually also a postcuring step with a validated UV chamber. Otherwise you may risk skin problems with standard resins, which can partly be avoided by additional coating with a skin compatible material.
-> handling liquid UV resin on your desk without additional safety measure may not be healthy (check out the MSDSs, like this one https://downloads.monoprice.com/files/certificates/30837_MSDS_171205.pdf). you will need personal protective equipment and ventilate the area very well.

 

[ForceMajeure]

Aditionally the tia fourte has very small bore. How should I build my tip considering the bore of the iem?

Here is a picture to show how small the bore is

I think I explained it before. anyway you should use shrink tubing. Place it over the nozzle of your iem and heat it until it forms a tight bond (be careful not to melt your iem...), remove from the tip and use it inside your custom eartip. Glue it in there after you enlarged the outer side enough so it fits there.
Because the shrink tube is rubbery it will create a rather tight connection with the nozzle of the iem.

One thing you need to consider is that with this kind of eartip you are making, the iems will stick out of the ear more than with reagular eartips.

For it to be more "encapsulated" you need to create a sleeve ti,p kinda like a semi custom iem tip. this is probably something you will not be able to do though. also a sleeve will only fit one iem only because it will merge with the inner contours of the iem it was done for.

Regarding the tools. I have no idea what you have on hand. Also because you have never done this before there is a good chance that you might actually ruin the silicone eartip you currently have trying to drill it no t carefully enough.

You need a set of 30 diamond burrs for a dremel. it should be around 10usd.

this looks good. get the one with a shank of 2.35mm diameter and not 3. make sure your dremel has a 2.35mm chuck for the head also

this looks good https://www.aliexpress.com/item/30-...p-Grinding-Alloy-Cylindrical/32744304261.html

 

[macglide]

That's because there is air between the shell and the negative during the curing process

Thanks for your reply! Do you have a suggestion, how to avoid them? I always try to pour the acryl slowly and without trapping air.

 

[NaiveSound]

I think I explained it before. anyway you should use shrink tubing. Place it over the nozzle of your iem and heat it until it forms a tight bond (be careful not to melt your iem...), remove from the tip and use it inside your custom eartip. Glue it in there after you enlarged the outer side enough so it fits there.
Because the shrink tube is rubbery it will create a rather tight connection with the nozzle of the iem.

One thing you need to consider is that with this kind of eartip you are making, the iems will stick out of the ear more than with reagular eartips.

For it to be more "encapsulated" you need to create a sleeve ti,p kinda like a semi custom iem tip. this is probably something you will not be able to do though. also a sleeve will only fit one iem only because it will merge with the inner contours of the iem it was done for.

Regarding the tools. I have no idea what you have on hand. Also because you have never done this before there is a good chance that you might actually ruin the silicone eartip you currently have trying to drill it no t carefully enough.

You need a set of 30 diamond burrs for a dremel. it should be around 10usd.

this looks good. get the one with a shank of 2.35mm diameter and not 3. make sure your dremel has a 2.35mm chuck for the head also

this looks good https://www.aliexpress.com/item/30-...p-Grinding-Alloy-Cylindrical/32744304261.html

Thank you so so much

 

[ForceMajeure]

Another subject I have been asked over pm'ed recently quite a few times.
"How to make clear shells that will look clear and not get a slight yellow tint (usually due to over exposing under uv during lacquering)"

Although the yellow tint comes down a bit after a few days/weeks due to natural exposure to blue light in the light spectrum (the yellow tint from the resin will come down more than the yellow tint from uv lacquer...).
There is a "trick" for those who still want to use lacquer and not the tedious work of sanding and buffing.

The "trick" is to use a tiny bit of purple in the mix of clear resin. The ratio should be about 20ml clear mixed with using 5-6 drops from a tooth pick of purple "dyed resin" NOT dye!. the dyed resin should have enough purple (you can mix red and blue dye to get the hue)

Once cured the shell will have a very very slight hint of purple in there that actually can make it look more clear. After being lacquered, under natural lighting conditions it will look clearer and not have that yellowish hue. The hint of purple will counter act the yellow effect when actual light refracts from the shells