[alanwcruz]

I don‘t think, that i want to do it for the friend, its a bit scary for me

Two month ago, I‘ve made adapters for my „beats X“ . On the right side, the seal was very poor, and for a test I tried to add two extra layers of acryl, and it works really nice. After that, I‘m now thinking to add another layer to the other side *g*

At this point I didn‘t have any issues with the curing process, the only thing I couldn‘t do, is to cure it in the glycerin, because there was all the elctronic in the shell. So I think, I will test it again for the friend to add another layer without curing in the glycerin. Without Glycerin I found that I have to wait after the curing and before the cleaning with ethanol / isopropanol for a day or so, otherwise the surface is completly opaque

Have you tried using No Wipe nail acrylic? I use it to coat mine and it does not leave any ugly residue, no need for the glycerin bath. Or you could also try some fotoplast lack although it's very expensive, as in liquid gold expensive. XD

 

[GeneBush]

Thank you so much!
One more question please. I wonder if damper location effect the sound. For the same tube length, damper placed near the BA or near ear canal, are there any differences?

This link might explain smth:

http://www.microsonic-inc.com/index2.php?section=49

 

[Einencool]

The fotoplast lack I have here, and I apply it always, when I‘ve finished the shells, to be save, that nothing will come into contact with the ear, that is not skin save.
I could imagine, that the layer I applied was to thick to cure well. So I will try it the next days, to apply only a little acryl once a time, then let it dry for a day and then after cleaning, add another thin layer.

When you are applying the fotoplast lack, how do you do this, I‘ve read about it, to cure it with a little Spot-light or so. I have always the issue, that I will get small bubbles in the finish. How do I prevent them? I‘ve got a UV-Led witl 365nm and today I added a bit of a drinking straw to have only a Spot-curing light, but I don‘t know to which power I will light the LED... I‘ve got a variable Power supply and will start with some low energy

 

[Furco]

I've been mulling this idea for a while. Given most of us have seen 100's of UV curing setups, negative mold making materials, lots of different UV acrylic, I'm wondering if we could come up with a calibration method that could be used to accurately predict how long it would take to create shells of any thickness regardless of any of these variables in methods or materials? Here's an example of my idea in action:

a) Prepare a mold using the container and mold material I have access to (e.g. ballistics gel; Knox gelatin; whatever else I can get my hands on)
b) Make a negative mold of a pencil or pen 1/2 way through the mold.
c) When the mold hardens, remove the pen/pencil
d) Fill the mold half with acrylic
e) Expose the mold for 10 seconds in your UV station
f) Check the center of the acrylic with a toothpick or pin to see if solid, if not, goto e)

When the acrylic is solid, add up the time it took to complete the 100% curing cycle (e.g. 185 seconds).
Measure the diameter of the pen/pencil (e.g. 7.1mm)

Use the formula to calculate curing rate/mm:

diameter/time = Curing Rate
For Example: 7.1mm/185sec = 0.038mm/s

Now, if want a set of shells that are 2 mm thick, it should be easy enough to calculate the Exposure Time via the formula:

shell thickness / curing rate = Exposure Time
For Example: 2mm / 0.038mm/s = 52 seconds

In theory this sounds reasonable, but in reality, it seems fraught with problems.

Thoughts?

 

[Andrumgt]

Anyone knows what type of connector is this?

I'm looking for an better alternative to the mmcx/2pin connector, because I can't find them here in Brazil.

That is a DC connector, you can find it on aliexpress or in any serious electronics shop, online or not.

 

[Bassiklee]

I've been mulling this idea for a while. Given most of us have seen 100's of UV curing setups, negative mold making materials, lots of different UV acrylic, I'm wondering if we could come up with a calibration method that could be used to accurately predict how long it would take to create shells of any thickness regardless of any of these variables in methods or materials? Here's an example of my idea in action:

a) Prepare a mold using the container and mold material I have access to (e.g. ballistics gel; Knox gelatin; whatever else I can get my hands on)
b) Make a negative mold of a pencil or pen 1/2 way through the mold.
c) When the mold hardens, remove the pen/pencil
d) Fill the mold half with acrylic
e) Expose the mold for 10 seconds in your UV station
f) Check the center of the acrylic with a toothpick or pin to see if solid, if not, goto e)

When the acrylic is solid, add up the time it took to complete the 100% curing cycle (e.g. 185 seconds).
Measure the diameter of the pen/pencil (e.g. 7.1mm)

Use the formula to calculate curing rate/mm:

diameter/time = Curing Rate
For Example: 7.1mm/185sec = 0.038mm/s

Now, if want a set of shells that are 2 mm thick, it should be easy enough to calculate the Exposure Time via the formula:

shell thickness / curing rate = Exposure Time
For Example: 2mm / 0.038mm/s = 52 seconds

In theory this sounds reasonable, but in reality, it's seem fraught with problems.

Thoughts?

Way too many variables to come up with an accurate formula like that. For instance:

What is the rate at which UV light gets through your gel? Is it the same as my gel? How far from the edge of the gel to the resin? How powerful is your light? Any pigment?? The list goes on and I'm. I'm trying to come up with a list like that, as it applies to me. My light, my investment material, my cup size, etc. Currently a work in progress.

 

[aussietanker]

What do you guys think? Do you want any particular color or faceplate material?

Give me some ideas as to what you want me to do and what you want to see.

I'm happy to see anything really. In my mind i break these builds up into 2 parts. The "shell" part and the "electronics" part. In regards to the shell part I THINK that i understand the process reasonably well and would be keen to see how you do some of the trickier "artistic" effects. In particular i would be keen to see how you do the following ...

1. How you color the tips of the shell so that they are a different color from the rest of the body of the shell
2. How you create marble and swirl colored paint effects in the rest of the shell
3. I also wouldn't mind to see how you add things like glitter or silver/gold flakes to both the shell and the faceplate.

In regards to the electronics part i would be keen to see how you do a "multi driver" unit where you have to add "crossovers, capacitors and the other bits" because i think that's the part where i struggle most.

I think that's the main things from my POV. Very keen to see how this goes.

 

[Bassiklee]

Two methods for me. The trio of glittery shells are simply painted inside of a clear shell. The two gold shells were an experiment today. Pour clear, cook it for about 30 seconds, dump it out and pour glitter resin in, cook about two min. That's the one on the right. The one on the left is just glitter resin. You can see the glitter in the little plastic bag. The molds used for the gold test shells are my first set, very bubbly silicone. For resin, so far, I'm playing with Solarez. I have Fotoplast lak 3 for a top coat. Solarez behaves well, and it's $57/gallon. I just received some Krystalloid hydrocolloid today. The clear shells are with that, using Solarez and a set of impressions coated in lacquer.

 

[alanwcruz]

Two methods for me. The trio of glittery shells are simply painted inside of a clear shell. The two gold shells were an experiment today. Pour clear, cook it for about 30 seconds, dump it out and pour glitter resin in, cook about two min. That's the one on the right. The one on the left is just glitter resin. You can see the glitter in the little plastic bag. The molds used for the gold test shells are my first set, very bubbly silicone. For resin, so far, I'm playing with Solarez. I have Fotoplast lak 3 for a top coat. Solarez behaves well, and it's $57/gallon. I just received some Krystalloid hydrocolloid today. The clear shells are with that, using Solarez and a set of impressions coated in lacquer.

Careful with polyester resins, they usually aren't meant for direct contact with skin, let alone the very sensitive skin inside the ear. Make sure the resin is completely inert and safe for human contact once cured.

 

[Bassiklee]

It will be fully coated in Fotoplast lak 3. The trio above are made from a medical grade UV resin.

 

[Furco]

Way too many variables to come up with an accurate formula like that. For instance:

What is the rate at which UV light gets through your gel? Is it the same as my gel? How far from the edge of the gel to the resin? How powerful is your light? Any pigment?? The list goes on and I'm. I'm trying to come up with a list like that, as it applies to me. My light, my investment material, my cup size, etc. Currently a work in progress.

My desire to come up with a calibration method wasn’t necessarily for a sharing or standardizing curing rates but more along the lines of answering the question: “If I change something in my method, such a getting a new UV light, or trying a different acrylic resin, is there some way I can quickly recalibrate things instead of going through many rounds of trial and error?” For beginners, or diy’ers who have limited acces to raw materials, this could be a potential money-saver for them. And for some of us “old-timers”, starting over can be frustrating.

 

[Bassiklee]

Gotcha. I read it wrong. Mea culpa.

 

[Furco]

I'm happy to see anything really. In my mind i break these builds up into 2 parts. The "shell" part and the "electronics" part. In regards to the shell part I THINK that i understand the process reasonably well and would be keen to see how you do some of the trickier "artistic" effects. In particular i would be keen to see how you do the following ...

1. How you color the tips of the shell so that they are a different color from the rest of the body of the shell
2. How you create marble and swirl colored paint effects in the rest of the shell
3. I also wouldn't mind to see how you add things like glitter or silver/gold flakes to both the shell and the faceplate.

In regards to the electronics part i would be keen to see how you do a "multi driver" unit where you have to add "crossovers, capacitors and the other bits" because i think that's the part where i struggle most.

I think that's the main things from my POV. Very keen to see how this goes.

2. How you create marble and swirl colored paint effects in the rest of the shell

YouTube “swirl nail art”. Your swirl designs are almost limitless.

 

[ForceMajeure]

2. How you create marble and swirl colored paint effects in the rest of the shell

YouTube “swirl nail art”. Your swirl designs are almost limitless.

You still have to thank your daughter for those beauties haha

 

[bartzky]

Use the formula to calculate curing rate/mm:

diameter/time = Curing Rate
For Example: 7.1mm/185sec = 0.038mm/s

Now, if want a set of shells that are 2 mm thick, it should be easy enough to calculate the Exposure Time via the formula:

shell thickness / curing rate = Exposure Time
For Example: 2mm / 0.038mm/s = 52 seconds

In theory this sounds reasonable, but in reality, it seems fraught with problems

You're assuming linear curing behavior. I'd say the curing behavior is logarithmic: As soon as the outer shell has built up, some of the light will be absorbed and the curing rate will get slower.

I'd try to get a few data points of time and thickness and do a logarithmic fit algorithm. You may go here and just fill in your values or even add some more: click

Also mind that the curing rates might be higher if you're using smaller objects like a pencil.