[Xymordos]

That sounds pretty good - I'll try the TEC/3100 as well as the ED. 

 

[sanekn]

Sorry if this has been asked several times.  I tried to search the post, but even that is overwhelming.  Where do you buy the accoustic tubing.  I've been able to find everything else I want, but that part.  It seems like #13 and #16 are common when reading through this.  Thanks for any direction!

Hello, I personnally buy everything iem related (except fotoplast and glysol) on aliexpress, Soundlink. Those guys are golden, standard shipping is slow tho.

And thank you very much Shilohsjustice for your job and efforts to give us this very useful awesome information. Really appreciate this. Youre like a Jesus of iems here to gide us haha

 

[ForceMajeure]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

 

 

You could try to use a bit with a diameter close to the end result inner diameter.
Wrap it in plastic wrap, put it inside the straw and cure the resin between the 2 elements.
once cured this could save you drilling a hole in that acrylic tube

 

[Shilohsjustice]

 
You could try to use a bit with a diameter close to the end result inner diameter.
Wrap it in plastic wrap, put it inside the straw and cure the resin between the 2 elements.
once cured this could save you drilling a hole in that acrylic tube

I tried writing each step out last night but after spending 30min on it, I lost it all which is why I only posted the pics. So below you will find my process. If it doesn't make sense just let me know and I will further explain.

That is close to what I do, I cut the large tubing close to the base of the shell, and then I slide small diameter tubing into the large as pictured. I use a straw to make a nice spout, I use a Dremel bit to hollow the the spout I made in the straw out. I slide the now hollow spout over the small tubing so it touched the base of the shell, I secure it to the base with clear Fotoplast and fill with clear Fotoplast. I cure and pull the small tubing out so it leaves two perfect canals. I take some cotton and place a small piece into each canal so I can sand down the spout to the length I like, I leave the cotton in there so I can trim the faceplate and buff to prevent dust from getting in there. I pull the two pieces of cotton and there you have it.

 

[ForceMajeure]

I tried writing each step out last night but after spending 30min on it, I lost it all which is why I only posted the pics. So below you will find my process. If it doesn't make sense just let me know and I will further explain.

That is close to what I do, I cut the large tubing close to the base of the shell, and then I slide small diameter tubing into the large as pictured. I use a straw to make a nice spout, I use a Dremel bit to hollow the the spout I made in the straw out. I slide the now hollow spout over the small tubing so it touched the base of the shell, I secure it to the base with clear Fotoplast and fill with clear Fotoplast. I cure and pull the small tubing out so it leaves two perfect canals. I take some cotton and place a small piece into each canal so I can sand down the spout to the length I like, I leave the cotton in there so I can trim the faceplate and buff to prevent dust from getting in there. I pull the two pieces of cotton and there you have it.

Yeah I figured the whole process.
 
I was suggesting using a cylindrical piece wrapped with plastic wrap or something the Fotoplast won't adhere to with a slightly smaller diameter than the straw. Insert it inside the straw so it gives you the option to only fill the "walls" of the "spout to be" with the resin and then cure it.
Now you don't have to drill a hole inside this extension spout. 

 

[MuZo2]

Why do you make the nozzle later and not part of shell?

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Yeah I figured the whole process.

I was suggesting using a cylindrical piece wrapped with plastic wrap or something the Fotoplast won't adhere to with a slightly smaller diameter than the straw. Insert it inside the straw so it gives you the option to only fill the "walls" of the "spout to be" with the resin and then cure it.
Now you don't have to drill a hole inside this extension spout. 

Oh, gotcha!! :thumbsup_tone1:, I'll have to give that a try. I do a similar technique when I'm making a universal with horn style spout. I need to find a better tool than the straw as it is not perfectly round.

On a side note, I ordered some synchronous motors to make the "rotator", is any one interested in me posting a tutorial on how to make it when I get all the parts. It's perfect for when you have coated your iem's with Laquer and want a nice even coat?

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Why do you make the nozzle later and not part of shell?

More control ove the quality, it's hard to get two #13 tubes through the spout and I have ruined too many shells trying to drill out the spout so now I do them separately. My universal shell design is rather small and tight so it also gives me a bit more room to work.

 

[J-breezy]

Oh, gotcha!! :thumbsup_tone1:, I'll have to give that a try. I do a similar technique when I'm making a universal with horn style spout. I need to find a better tool than the straw as it is not perfectly round.

On a side note, I ordered some synchronous motors to make the "rotator", is any one interested in me posting a tutorial on how to make it when I get all the parts. It's perfect for when you have coated your iem's with Laquer and want a nice even coat?

I would definitely be interested in the tutorial. All of your info has been SUPER helpful!
In the past I've gotten lac 3 all over the iem and it all looked great and even and then when I put it under the UV light there are these little hard parts that stick up sometimes in the hardening process I guess. And of course by the time I see them form under the light and pull them out they are already hard. Which makes me have to sand the iem again which is kind of defeating the purpose of use the lac 3. Have you ever experienced anything like this?

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I would definitely be interested in the tutorial. All of your info has been SUPER helpful!
In the past I've gotten lac 3 all over the iem and it all looked great and even and then when I put it under the UV light there are these little hard parts that stick up sometimes in the hardening process I guess. And of course by the time I see them form under the light and pull them out they are already hard. Which makes me have to sand the iem again which is kind of defeating the purpose of use the lac 3. Have you ever experienced anything like this?

Yes I've experienced this, usually if you coat it then put it right under the light you get this. I believe it's from areas that have a thicker coat. If I Lak3 I will put it on the rotator for several minutes before exposing to uv. I usually do a couple quick passes with my uv flashlight to get the surface before putting in the uv chamber. I'll have to do a video for everyone on the Lak3 technique I use. Maybe this weekend I'll get to post something like that.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I took the universals out today for test drive, sound great!! I had to play some Dream Theater to get a good taste of their capabilities!!!

 

[bartzky]

I was looking for litz wires and came across this Block CLI 200/15: http://www.block.eu/en_IN/products/720976.htm

Has anyone used something like this before?

The look reminds me of the super-ultra-extreme-high quality wires used for the HUM Pristine. Coincidentally they both are 15*0.1mm pure copper wires made in Germany...
Funny though that the Block litz wires are super cheap. They're about 22€ for 128m while that buys about 10m of Estron litz.

 

[MuZo2]

Estron are super thin, Block CLI 200 doesnt look like.

 

[bartzky]

The Estron wires have a diameter of 0.4mm. That calculates into an effective cross section of about 0.126mm^2. So the Block CLI 200/15 is even slightly thinner with it's 0.118mm^2.

 

[ForceMajeure]

Probably an April fool's Day thing
I count around 30 drivers per side