[bartzky]

Estron = Shenzhen Bellsing Acoustic right?

Thanks! Well, I thought Estron and Bellsing were identical. Are they not?

 

[piotrus-g]

Thanks! Well, I thought Estron and Bellsing were identical. Are they not?

I think they are the same company.

 

[Cutty]

Just made a $10 single BA. Used a $1.50 CI-30120, no dampers, and cheap dynamic housings from taobao.

 

[Trying2Learn]

Just made a $10 single BA. Used a $1.50 CI-30120, no dampers, and cheap dynamic housings from taobao.

Pics?

 

[J-breezy]

Here is version (5) 4-driver.

How do you get both tubes down into a universal canal that is so small?

 

[Shilohsjustice]

How do you get both tubes down into a universal canal that is so small?

I plan on working on some later today, I will post some pics of my process.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

How do you get both tubes down into a universal canal that is so small?

Here is PART 1 of my current method of making universals.

Material:
Investment
Blue Dreve Fotoplast
Glycerin
99% isopropyl alcohol

With my current light, 365nm it takes approximately 1min 40sec for the blue Fotoplast to cure at an ideal thickness.

After initial cure I pour out the excess and cure for another 1min 40sec.

From there I pop the seal and pull it out of the investment.

It goes straight into glycerin, so it's surrounded and filled, back under UV light for 8minutes to cure the inhibition layer inside the shell.

I pull it from the glycerin, drain, and put it into the 99% isopropyl alcohol. I'll swirl it around and use a small nylon brush to clean the inside and exterior of the shell. I work it in the alcohol until I am sure all the glycerin has been flushed from the inside.

I shake out the excess and trim so it's ready for next steps.

Below pic is straight out of the investment.



Below is trimmed and cleaned up a bit



From here I'll do a good clean on it to get the dust out......(Bonus Tip - I'll take a blow dryer and heat up the inside to dry-up the alchol and then wipe inside with a que-tip, this will give you the smooth glass like interior that everyone envy's.)

If you do not heat up the inside and you try to wipe it out you'll get smeer marks.

After that I buff the shell to get the smooth glass like surface. I usually only spend a few minutes here because I complete a thourough buffing once it is fully assembled.

Below is a pic of the buffed shell, all left is to drill hole for my mmcx female jack. (I do this after I buff so the buffing compound doesn't get stuck on the inside of the drilled hole, again just my method.)



Below is the steps listed above in order, this is also the method I use when making custom shells just slightly modified.

Method:
1. Place investment into uv chamber, expose to uv for 1min 40sec (for clear I expose for 1min 30 sec, please note that my machine has to kick the lights on so deduct 3-4 seconds for my machine to engage all the lights.)
2. Dump excess, re-expose for 1min 40sec.
3. Place into glycerin bath, expose for 8min.
4. Remove and place into isopropyl alcohol, work until all glycerin is removed.
5. Trim and smith any areas. I drill out the spout so it's wide open, I use a dremel tip.
6. Rinse again in alcohol, with blow dryer heat interior of the shell until its dry (there may be small spots, but will wipe out beautifully) wipe out with cotton swab/ que-tip.
7. Buff the shell to prep for assembly.

From here I will drill the hole for the mmcx female connector, assembly so my tubes are out of the spout. I will show this process in PART 2 so stay tuned. I hope this helps!!

 

[Mogol]

I'm trying to do faceplates like the UE show in their video using slices of the shell. But the acrylic hardens unevenly. The surface is not smooth, with the small hollows.

I use Egger LP/H, and the nail lamp 36 watts. What am I doing wrong?

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I'm trying to do faceplates like the UE show in their video using slices of the shell. But the acrylic hardens unevenly. The surface is not smooth, with the small hollows.


I use Egger LP/H, and the nail lamp 36 watts. What am I doing wrong?

Have you tried sanding and then buffing?

 

[Mogol]

Have you tried sanding and then buffing?

It would be great to do without sanding, just buffing. Because in this case, it will be necessary to remove a large layer. It negates all the advantages of such a method, liquid acrylic and hardened very different in form. 
This does not happen when using epoxy or resin jewelry.

 

[ForceMajeure]

  It would be great to do without sanding, just buffing. Because in this case, it will be necessary to remove a large layer. It negates all the advantages of such a method, liquid acrylic and hardened very different in form. 
This does not happen when using epoxy or resin jewelry.

You'll have to sand the side anyway once you glue it to the shell.
A big part of making a good looking shell is sanding and buffing, UE does it too.
 
When pouring the resin to make the faceplate try to even it with some kind of spudger. it will make it more uniform, you'll also be able to get rid of bubbles if you have some.
In case of tenacious air bubbles, either let it sit or heat them prior to curing so the bubbles will go to the surface 

 

[Xymordos]

Any smaller sized bass driver people recommend that isn't vented? I want to try something that's not CI, together with a dynamic driver

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Any smaller sized bass driver people recommend that isn't vented? I want to try something that's not CI, together with a dynamic driver

Have you ever tried the ED-30761? It has a nice sound to it, paired with a dynamic it would probably compliment it well!

It doesn't have a spout though, I heat my typing and stretch it to go around it.

 

[Xymordos]

I've never previously considered an ED as a bass driver
 
It seems there's no datasheet available for this one?
 
Edit: nvm, found one - it's a vented driver though.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

It's buried for whatever reason. Took me a while to find one as well. I'll post the link anyways.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/23865811/ED-30761-000.pdf