Home-Made IEMs
Aug 9, 2016 at 2:28 AM Post #5,146 of 16,107
Hey guys, sort of a newbie here and I'm looking to build my first set of IEM's.
 
I've been doing a lot of research and i am pretty confident in my ability to make some nice shells, however I'm having trouble finding any kind of detailed information on wiring/crossovers/driver /filter selection.  I've searched around a bunch but I can't seem to find anything that is in great detail, does anybody here have some links to good resources on learning about this stuff? Just looking through pages on this thread it seems to be somewhat of a detailed process.  
 
Aug 9, 2016 at 2:33 AM Post #5,147 of 16,107
  Hey guys, sort of a newbie here and I'm looking to build my first set of IEM's.
 
I've been doing a lot of research and i am pretty confident in my ability to make some nice shells, however I'm having trouble finding any kind of detailed information on wiring/crossovers/driver /filter selection.  I've searched around a bunch but I can't seem to find anything that is in great detail, does anybody here have some links to good resources on learning about this stuff? Just looking through pages on this thread it seems to be somewhat of a detailed process.  


New to the thread also, just discovered the great wiki.
Can export it as a pdf...
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1jU37oWefx2dGS8dWw5TVkugEtwJh_bh3fuUBNe2HrQg/edit#heading=h.xq381wckisjn
 
Aug 9, 2016 at 2:43 AM Post #5,148 of 16,107
And that, is exactly what I was looking for, thanks so much!
 
Holy **** do I have my reading ahead of me.
 
Also out of curiosity, since I didn't see it in the guide... has anybody here tried making wooden shells similar to Noble etc.?  How exactly do they form a perfect replica of the ear impression.
 
Aug 9, 2016 at 3:11 AM Post #5,149 of 16,107
Also out of curiosity, since I didn't see it in the guide... has anybody here tried making wooden shells similar to Noble etc.?  How exactly do they form a perfect replica of the ear impression.

Its all done with digital process,
1) Ear impressions are scanned in a 3d scanner.
2) 3d model is worked on in special CAD software
3) It can be 3d printed but for wood its CNC milled.
 
Aug 10, 2016 at 5:10 AM Post #5,151 of 16,107
Hello guys, unfortunately for my wallet and fortunately for the project one of my shells cracked up so i will take them gk out and redo everything again and better goddamit! Wish me luck :) i think my impressions are bad also since the audiologist didnt pressed them with some sheet and i havent opened my mouth neither.
 
Aug 11, 2016 at 1:24 AM Post #5,152 of 16,107
Biggest shell I've found online takes up to 10mm DD max.
 
 
 
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/L-Size-Custom-IEM-DIY-Housing-Shell-For-Shure-SE535-Fitear-JH-Westone-etc-2-6/32610261494.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.10.pObtcZ&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_8,searchweb201602_5_10057_10056_10055_10037_10049_10059_10032_10058_10017_10060_10061_10062_10064,searchweb201603_8&btsid=3c9d8ff9-e4e0-4e41-ad60-2a04376ace46
 
Is there any other off-the-shelf universal shell that will take 13.5mm/16mm dynamic cones or will a custom reshell be needed ?
 
Looking at a subwoofer/basshead level neodymium cone with a single full ranger or double BA later on when I can get the parts together, but getting everything bookmarked now.
I think it may be better to have a split DD/BA chamber with this salvaged cone with them blending together at the port ? Most of these subwoofer type IEMs lacking microdetail, sucked out mids rolled off treble so I thought I'd try and bring together my own configuration.
I'd imagine lowpass cutoff on the dynamic around 500hz or is there some 400-500 magic cutoff area !?
 
Aug 11, 2016 at 10:14 PM Post #5,153 of 16,107
  Biggest shell I've found online takes up to 10mm DD max.
 
 

Sorry to go slightly off your topic, but how do those custom shells work?
 
Do you have to heat them up and mold to your ear? 
 
Do you have to send them an impression and they send you back a completed shell?
 
Is there someone who has reviewed those shells/process?
 
Aug 11, 2016 at 10:16 PM Post #5,154 of 16,107
 
New to the thread also, just discovered the great wiki.
Can export it as a pdf...
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1jU37oWefx2dGS8dWw5TVkugEtwJh_bh3fuUBNe2HrQg/edit#heading=h.xq381wckisjn

 
 
  Sorry to go slightly off your topic, but how do those custom shells work?
 
Do you have to heat them up and mold to your ear? 
 
Do you have to send them an impression and they send you back a completed shell?
 
Is there someone who has reviewed those shells/process?

 
Aug 11, 2016 at 11:55 PM Post #5,156 of 16,107
  Lohb,
 
Thanks for the link but I have already read it.
 
That document does not however answer what the Aliexpress product actually is. What do you get for $35?


Just a shell to make your DIY IEMs. Nothing more, not even the MMCX conenctor.
 
Aug 12, 2016 at 12:40 AM Post #5,157 of 16,107
Is there any other off-the-shelf universal shell that will take 13.5mm/16mm dynamic cones or will a custom reshell be needed ?


Its hard to fit 14mm driver in normal ciem type shell, 16mm may be you have to do it like Sony.
Note dynamic drivers ate really hard to get right because tuning depends on air in front and back of driver.
Big drivers are slower and can't match speed of BA drivers and you run into issues like coherency.
 
Aug 12, 2016 at 1:42 AM Post #5,158 of 16,107
Its hard to fit 14mm driver in normal ciem type shell, 16mm may be you have to do it like Sony.
Note dynamic drivers ate really hard to get right because tuning depends on air in front and back of driver.
Big drivers are slower and can't match speed of BA drivers and you run into issues like coherency.


Split chamber maybe and similar DD chamber shape to original shells which seems to narrowly hug the cones all the way round with very little space....plus air venting/porting considerations
 
Aug 16, 2016 at 11:00 AM Post #5,160 of 16,107
Hi all,
 
First time poster here. First of all I'd like to thank the contributors to this thread for their amazing work and for the wealth of information there is in here... I've spent a good few hours trawling through it with wide-eyed amazement and a fair amount of (well-meaning) envy! It had never even occurred to me that these things could be DIY-ed... until I stumbled on this thread, and as an avid DIY-er, I've decided I HAVE to make myself a pair.
 
It being my first attempt and not wanting to risk flushing a sizeable amount of cash down the drain by screwing up an 8-driver setup, and following the oft-repeated advice I've seen on this thread, I'm going to go with a triple GK driver with its ready-made crossover, and I'm going to house it in a universal Shure-knock-off shell purchased on Aliexpress. Although It'd be fun to make my own custom molds, Shures fit my ears great and I'd rather save myself the hassle on my first attempt.
 
I already own a pair of Shure SE215's, and they sound pretty decent and all (a bit bassy), but I mainly use them for playing my electronic drum kit and there are some kit pieces, particularly the snare, that sound like they're behind a thick curtain. I don't know if it's because the higher-frequency components of the snare are not coming through or what, but it's a bit annoying. I have a pair of cheap Superlux 668B's that sound fantastic. It's true the highs are slightly on the harsh side when crashing cymbals, but the snare and all other kit pieces sound beautiful. The problem is they're semi-open and don't isolate enough, which the Shures do exceptionally well. Basically, I'm looking to see if I can make myself a pair of IEMs that sound better than the 215's for roughly the same price, so here are my questions:
 
1.- Is this a realistic goal? If it is, then...
 
2.- Dampers: In the Shure shell I've been eyeing, the two nozzles from the GK driver would be going into a little chamber (that I'd seal against the drivers), combining both outputs into a single tube. Here's the product so you can see what I'm talking about: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-quality-C0-Repair-DIY-Unit-Housing-Shell-SE535-se425-se315-se215-W40-Earphone/32499329423.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.2.hdCVcz&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7,searchweb201602_2_10057_10056_10055_10037_10049_301_10033_10059_10032_10058_10017_10060_10061_10062,searchweb201603_9&btsid=9f16285c-26e3-4459-87e4-4d1c00a3544c. So I'd like to ask what damper/s would you recommend (if any)? Should I try attaching a separate damper to each nozzle? Is there any reason not to attach dampers directly on the nozzles (no tubing - wouldn't fit in the housing)? I understand that the best answer is to just buy a few different dampers and do some testing, but some pointers would be much appreciated; I'd prefer not to have to buy 2 of every single damper - maybe narrow it down to 3 values. I'd basically like to have tamed highs that are present but which don't send my ears ringing every time I whack a crash cymbal (the Superluxes tend to do that...).
 
3.- Anything in particular I should be careful with or aware of? I'm fairly handy with a soldering iron so that part should be OK, but through experience I know that there are always unforeseen things that crop up, so any advice is welcome.
 
Thanks for reading if you got this far, and apologies for the long-winded post!
 

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