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Home-Made IEMs
Feb 25, 2015 at 2:55 AM Post #3,301 of 15,989
tsn141 said:
If you use cold cure acrylic, you can do wait and turn down method for shells.There is blurry surface at inside of shell.

More explanation for method:
Heat the negative mold, then pour acrylic mixture(cold mixture is recommended) to negative. Wait until a rim begin at the border of mould, rim thickness means wall thickness of shell, then turn out the acrylic. Cold cure acrylic is using by westone as I know, it is very robust material. This info is expensive info for me, it costs to me about 3-4kg cold acrylic.
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Wow, great info! Do you know what material is used for the negative mold, since it has to be preheated. Don't know if it will work with silicone? Then you just let it set a bit and then pour out the remaining acrylic mix, am I right (like they do with uv treated shells)? 
 
Feb 25, 2015 at 3:12 AM Post #3,302 of 15,989
kellogsx said:
   
Wow, great info! Do you know what material is used for the negative mold, since it has to be preheated. Don't know if it will work with silicone? Then you just let it set a bit and then pour out the remaining acrylic mix, am I right (like they do with uv treated shells)? 
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I used agar-agar gel, and plaster mold also used. I heat up negative with hot water. Yes very similar to UV method, heat and time cures material instead of UV, but remaining part not used again. There is rough surface inside of shell only problem is this.
 
Feb 25, 2015 at 4:21 AM Post #3,303 of 15,989
Ok, plaster I have plenty and I think I can get some agar-agar as well, will try it out.
 
Right now I'm doing a new negative mold in gelatine (food-grade) instead, last time I used it for the acrylic mix it came out very nice and smooth.
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 3:30 PM Post #3,305 of 15,989
Alright, Noob here. I have gone through about 150 pages, but still have more to go in order to catch up.
 
I want to start out with a TWFK / CI combo.  However, I am going on a long trip very soon and want to take time to balance the pair, so I was thinking of just a single ED for now (unless you can convince me otherwise).  :)
 
Couple of questions:
 
1. For single ED, what tube length range do you recommend experimenting with?
 
2. Where is the best place to buy tubing?  - 2mm ID I would assume with the filters being 2.08, Right? - I have found sourcing for pretty much all the other parts.
 
3.  MMCX female...what is the part number for Mouser?  This is the one that I was thinking of, but it is PCB mount.   http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Linx-Technologies%2fCONMMCX001%2f&qs=sGAEpiMZZMuLQf%252bEuFsOru48dlYVRPu%252b56IpUHEmH30%3d
 
Thanks for the help.
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 5:28 PM Post #3,307 of 15,989
squambug said:
  Alright, Noob here. I have gone through about 150 pages, but still have more to go in order to catch up.
 
I want to start out with a TWFK / CI combo.  However, I am going on a long trip very soon and want to take time to balance the pair, so I was thinking of just a single ED for now (unless you can convince me otherwise).  :)
 
Couple of questions:
 
1. For single ED, what tube length range do you recommend experimenting with?
 
2. Where is the best place to buy tubing?  - 2mm ID I would assume with the filters being 2.08, Right? - I have found sourcing for pretty much all the other parts.
 
3.  MMCX female...what is the part number for Mouser?  This is the one that I was thinking of, but it is PCB mount.   http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Linx-Technologies%2fCONMMCX001%2f&qs=sGAEpiMZZMuLQf%252bEuFsOru48dlYVRPu%252b56IpUHEmH30%3d
 
Thanks for the help.
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This is the mmcx part you need
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=73415-0963virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-73415-0963
 
Feb 26, 2015 at 10:04 PM Post #3,308 of 15,989
squambug said:
  Alright, Noob here. I have gone through about 150 pages, but still have more to go in order to catch up.
 
I want to start out with a TWFK / CI combo.  However, I am going on a long trip very soon and want to take time to balance the pair, so I was thinking of just a single ED for now (unless you can convince me otherwise).  :)
 
Couple of questions:
 
1. For single ED, what tube length range do you recommend experimenting with?
 
2. Where is the best place to buy tubing?  - 2mm ID I would assume with the filters being 2.08, Right? - I have found sourcing for pretty much all the other parts.
 
3.  MMCX female...what is the part number for Mouser?  This is the one that I was thinking of, but it is PCB mount.   http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Linx-Technologies%2fCONMMCX001%2f&qs=sGAEpiMZZMuLQf%252bEuFsOru48dlYVRPu%252b56IpUHEmH30%3d
 
Thanks for the help.
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you can purchase tubing from microsnics  here is #13 tubing that will be close to 2mm ID http://store.microsonic-inc.com/203-13mediumtubing-bulkbythefoot.aspx you may find it dificult to fit the dampers inside a tube that is smaller in diamiter than the damper, I use #12 tubing and th dampers slip right in. http://store.microsonic-inc.com/203-12standardtubing-bulkbythefoot.aspx
 
 
ED is a good choice for a single driver and I do not want to discourage you from building that because I think you will probably be happy with it, but since you mentioned that you want to do a TWFK/CI combo why not use GK? It is a single unit combining TWFK and CI with a built in crossover, only one place to solder to and you can use a single acoustic tube to cover both ports if you want to keep things simple. It wouldn't be any more complicated of a build than ED since you can treat it as a single driver. 
 
If you are like the rest of us, you will probably end up building both of your ideas eventually and more after that.
 
Feb 27, 2015 at 12:31 AM Post #3,311 of 15,989
cmos1138 said:
  ED is a good choice for a single driver and I do not want to discourage you from building that because I think you will probably be happy with it, but since you mentioned that you want to do a TWFK/CI combo why not use GK? It is a single unit combining TWFK and CI with a built in crossover, only one place to solder to and you can use a single acoustic tube to cover both ports if you want to keep things simple. It wouldn't be any more complicated of a build than ED since you can treat it as a single driver. 
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I am just curious about the ports being at the same location.  From what I have been reading, the base should have a longer tube and the TWFK shorter.  Do you have experience with the GK?  Thoughts about this? 
 
Feb 27, 2015 at 4:07 AM Post #3,312 of 15,989
squambug said:
   
I am just curious about the ports being at the same location.  From what I have been reading, the base should have a longer tube and the TWFK shorter.  Do you have experience with the GK?  Thoughts about this? 
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Yes, my first build was with GK and I have made several sets for friends and family using it since then. It is true that it does not allow the flexibility of driver placement and the tube length will have to be nearly equal, if you use 2 tubes you can make one shorter depending on how you position the driver in the shell, but it won't be much shorter. Another way to manage the acoustic tuning is by using a smaller ID tube on the CI port and larger on TWFK. I managed the tuning in my build by using a red damper on the CI port and no damper on TWFK, I would describe the sound as warm base with clean mids and airy highs with an overall slight V shaped sound. because I don't use any damper on the TWFK It is prone to amplify any hiss that may be in the recording or playback device as the case may be and this is especially noticeable on quieter music types such as classical but I like to have those airy sounding highs and I have other builds that are more forgiving to lower quality recordings (ED is great for this) or for classical music (GQ is best for classical) 
 
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