[CMOS1138]

   I never managed to polish my shells to shine properly and there are acrylic residue everywhere on the shells
 
 

 
That sounds like a problem you could solve easily with your current build so why bother making a duplicate? By acrylic residue, are you referring to uncured tacky surface or do you mean something else? obviously the solution depends on what material you are using but assuming you are using a UV acrylic, than that problem could be solved with a stronger UV light and longer exposure time. I got a UV light box off e-bay that is intended for acrylic nail curing, it is perfect for this application as it has 4 strong UV lights and has both a timed and un-timed setting. Once I am finished building a set and put on my final finishing top coat, I set it in the light box and let it bake for 10 to 20 minutes, this gives me a super glossy, hard and slick finish with no uncured residue at all. 
 
Since you still have the residue on the current set, I would recommend thoroughly cleaning the surface with alcohol to remove the uncured acrylic, buffing or sanding down the surface evenly to make everything slightly smaller, and than applying a layer of top coat materiel and bake it under the UV light for a long time. Even if you goof up and it doesn't fit properly anymore, you need to resolve the curing issue before you build another set or you will just have the same problem all over again.

 

[Shiikamaru]

Hi guys, from this thread, I have learnt a lot from you guys. At the moment, I have a set of CI 22955, ED 29689, TWFK and Linum T2 female plugs. Do you guys have any suggestions/schematic on how I can wire this guys up? I currently have 2mm tubes which are too big for the CI 22955. If I'm not wrong, my acoustic dampers are 2.08mm. What diameter of tubes do you guys recommend? Does that mean I cant squeeze the 2.08mm dampers into lets say 1.5mm tubings? Does it matter which way I wire the balanced amature to the Linum T2 female plugs? I'm currently waiting for the gun to which to mix the mould to arrive. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.  

 

[Xymordos]

   
That sounds like a problem you could solve easily with your current build so why bother making a duplicate? By acrylic residue, are you referring to uncured tacky surface or do you mean something else? obviously the solution depends on what material you are using but assuming you are using a UV acrylic, than that problem could be solved with a stronger UV light and longer exposure time. I got a UV light box off e-bay that is intended for acrylic nail curing, it is perfect for this application as it has 4 strong UV lights and has both a timed and un-timed setting. Once I am finished building a set and put on my final finishing top coat, I set it in the light box and let it bake for 10 to 20 minutes, this gives me a super glossy, hard and slick finish with no uncured residue at all. 
 
Since you still have the residue on the current set, I would recommend thoroughly cleaning the surface with alcohol to remove the uncured acrylic, buffing or sanding down the surface evenly to make everything slightly smaller, and than applying a layer of top coat materiel and bake it under the UV light for a long time. Even if you goof up and it doesn't fit properly anymore, you need to resolve the curing issue before you build another set or you will just have the same problem all over again.

What I mean by residue is that when I glue the face place onto the shell I often accidentally spill them during the curing, causing them to solidify on places I don't want.

 

[Xymordos]

  Hi guys, from this thread, I have learnt a lot from you guys. At the moment, I have a set of CI 22955, ED 29689, TWFK and Linum T2 female plugs. Do you guys have any suggestions/schematic on how I can wire this guys up? I currently have 2mm tubes which are too big for the CI 22955. If I'm not wrong, my acoustic dampers are 2.08mm. What diameter of tubes do you guys recommend? Does that mean I cant squeeze the 2.08mm dampers into lets say 1.5mm tubings? Does it matter which way I wire the balanced amature to the Linum T2 female plugs? I'm currently waiting for the gun to which to mix the mould to arrive. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.  

You can squeeze the dampers into smaller tubings depending on tubing material. 

 

[CMOS1138]

  What I mean by residue is that when I glue the face place onto the shell I often accidentally spill them during the curing, causing them to solidify on places I don't want.

sounds like a job for a dremel and sandpaper.

 

[wjp007]

What I do is sand the edges after I put the faceplate on with a dremel tool and flapper sanding disc. Then I apply a thin topcoat of UV acrylic on the whole shell and cure. I hang the unit using wire inserted into the connector when curing. Then a let it cure for a long time. This is the only way I was able to get a polished finish.

 

[Xymordos]

  sounds like a job for a dremel and sandpaper.

 
 

What I do is sand the edges after I put the faceplate on with a dremel tool and flapper sanding disc. Then I apply a thin topcoat of UV acrylic on the whole shell and cure. I hang the unit using wire inserted into the connector when curing. Then a let it cure for a long time. This is the only way I was able to get a polished finish.

 
Just spend quite a few hours sanding the entire thing. Looks quite nice matted black actually! wjp007: does that method actually get a even coat of polish? :O

 

[wjp007]

Yes it is possible, you just have to be careful and apply as thin a coat as possible, but not so thin that the material streaks.

 

[Dan Jarros]

Hello all. I'd like to try to do a set of CIEMs using a recessed 2 pin plug sockets like this:
 
http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=3569
 
Does anybody know of a US supplier of these type of plugs? 

 

[CMOS1138]

  Hello all. I'd like to try to do a set of CIEMs using a recessed 2 pin plug sockets like this:
 
http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=3569
 
Does anybody know of a US supplier of these type of plugs? 

Hi Dan, welcome back  
 
I have considered making my own recessed plug ports but after making 8 sets and using a different cable on each of them, I have started going in the opposite directing and extending my connectors out of the shell slightly. I find that most 2 pin connector style cables have a shroud like part that covers part of the pins and prevents the pins from deeply inserting into the connectors if the connector is flush with the surrounding surface. with the connectors extended out of the shell slightly, the connecting pins can be fully inserted and the shroud on the cable covers up the connectors and sits flush with the shell, this gives a secure connection that doesn't get dislodged easily. Another thing to consider is that the shroud is shaped differently on every cable I have used so far and some of them would definitely not fit into that socket at all and that would prevent a connection (some are round and others can be quite large.) 

 

[Xymordos]

I find it easier to use a protruding plug like UE. I would sand it a bit and then the UE default cable will be able to fit on the plug. This also creates more space in the shell to place drivers.

 

[Xymordos]

Man there are so many drivers I see being put on sale that I can't find the datasheets to. Even some 6xxxx drivers by Knowles can be found on Taobao! I couldn't find any information on the DTEC-30811

 

[Dan Jarros]

I saw some of you talking about getting a shiny finish on DIY acrylic shells. I saw in some pro company vids they use a standard high speed polishing/ grinding wheel with the cotton buffer and standard "red" rouge. Anybody tried it? I tried red and white rouges with a dremel polish wheel with bad/ melty results. Also has anybody tried to thin the UV gel for really thin final coats? If so, what did you use? Alcohol? Acetone? 
 
DJ

 

[MIke M]

Dremels can spin pretty fast, try to limit the speed to 3k rpm (which is pretty slow). That should give you better results.

 

[tsn141]

  I saw some of you talking about getting a shiny finish on DIY acrylic shells. I saw in some pro company vids they use a standard high speed polishing/ grinding wheel with the cotton buffer and standard "red" rouge. Anybody tried it? I tried red and white rouges with a dremel polish wheel with bad/ melty results. Also has anybody tried to thin the UV gel for really thin final coats? If so, what did you use? Alcohol? Acetone? 
 
DJ

You can use lacquarer(UV lack for acrylic) and they use polishing buff and polishing paste. do not polish very high speeds and first polishing must be done with polishing paste and hard cotton and second one dry and with softer "cotton".
 
Or you can use  polishing paste instead of pumice which is a wet method