White mid way the tube or green at the BA spout should help.Hey, thanx for all the suggestions, I’ve finished my first stage iem, played a gig with it and I am super happy how they sound onstage. This is how they look and how they sound. 3d printed. I wanted to ask how could I improve the response? I was thinking about white damper on the fulrange 2389 cause sibilants are a tiny bit too sharp. If you got some thoughts, let me know
Use 3mmOD X 2mmID or if you are purchasing in the states from warnertech, #13 regular OR thin. 12mm on both. You could go like 14mm on the 2389… white damper at like 9mm. You will need a 1-5 ohm series resistor to lower the total output to virtually eliminate the crispiness, followed by a 3.3 or 4.7 series capacitor wired to center tap. The 3300 requires a bit more effort to get the roll-off. I usually add like 10 Ω resistor followed by a zobel. By taming the impedence you will also get a slightly lower volume output but more equal push across the spectrum. Essentially your 33 is providing the sub, and bass. The 2389 will provide the upper mids into the 10K+. If you want a hifi high end shelf out to say 20-30K, you have to prevent the woofer from over drawing from the passive signal. This will depend on your source impedance to some degree. So, thats a long way of saying, L-pad for a minus 8-10dB followed by a zobel. Use a yellow damper at like 8mm. Hope this helps.
Most of what you find on the web regarding zobel networks regarding armatures is theoretical. Meaning, theres no way of truly knowing the inductance of an armature due to them being HIGHLY inductive by design. That coupled with a swooping impedance curve, you are just kinda guessing. and then kind of not. Someone will undoubtedly chime in with a formula or a calculator link of some sort. even if you measure it with a meter, that inductance is being read back at a given frequency either 1000hZ or 500. Again, this will get you “close“. But, to get a true balance with a flat impedance and ZERO electrical phase shift, you will have to test, test, test, test.Looking for the suitable Zobel for LS61718. It looks like a 30 ohm peak at 800 Hz.
I intend to fit it with a CI30120 as well..
I would really appreciate your help!
I decided to add another tweeter to GV. I really need some extra sound between 4khz-8khz to get brightness I want. Sonion E50DT0005/D and WBFK-30095 are my options. The graph of sonion looks better for my target. Is there anyone can advise crossover parameters for tweeter only? I want to cut the frequency below 3khz on this tweeter. Maybe I should solder it directly, I dont know. I have almost zero knowledge about crossovers parameters. Any reference link about res/cap variations and its effects would be appreciated deeply.Hello,
I have been a ghost follower of the topic for a few months to get some information for my custom IEM trial. Now I am a member and I am starting to post, of course starting with some questions
I made my shells with PNP technique. After a few trial I got a perfect sound isolation. Drivers are GV. I tried a few damper combinations. I dont have frequency measurement tools but acoridng to my ears I always got very huge bass sound as well as strong mids but even without any damper I couldn't get nice shiny highs. It could be acceptable for music listening but my main purpose is using it as a stage monitor for my guitar playing in live gigs. Missing presence is not suitable for that purpose. I am not happy with the sound I hear while I am playing my guitar.
I compared it with some other earphones that I have such as KZ ZS10 pro, Shure SE215, Audio-technica M30x, and some others. Highs of my IEM is significantly missing compared to others. Lows and mids are pronounced. Mids are tolerable but I feel like too much bass covers up the details in sound. To increase highs I tried widening the tweeter's hole but the amount I need is not something cannot be obtained with this method I think. What could be the suggestion to balance this sound? I think reducing the bass sound will not be sufficient to get sound profile I want. Can it be adding another tweeter? Which one? Will it need crossoever? The worst part is, my ear canal is so small I can't make a third hole if I need to add another driver. I need to use the same hole with GV tweeter.
I am also making an experiment with HE drivers. It has a similar sound profile.
Another big problem is that, while I am singing, vibration in my ear canal tickles me a lot. I can't sing while IEMs are plugged in. I have some spare-empty shells that I experimented. I shorten the canal, narrowed it but still tickles because of the inside-ear vibration of some sound I make. It is not at tolerable level, very disturbing. How can I get over this? If this is about my anatomy, I will say goodbye to this project
Thanks in advance for comments
everything inside an IEM is based on passive circuitry. If you add one thing to your current circuit (ie the GV) it will change how the built in crossover works for the GV. The GV is 100% a plug and play scenario, aside from tuning with damper and tube length. One thing you could try is moving the unit closer the ear canal.
Thank you for reply.
What printer are you using? And what are your current print parameters? I'm having a booger of time dialing in my elegoo Saturn mono 4k msla just to print the simplest of things using Pro3dure IN-R. The IN-R is a 385 or 405nm while the freeprint is 385-388nm I believe.... Any advice would be of great use. I've spent the better part of two days trying to get a good test print from the UV Tools application using their print exposure finder functionality. This is quite the conundrum... lolJust wanted to share the method I use for 3d printing….
Just cut off the pyramids….buff to shape… done…
Works on any resin by now!!even Detax freeprint…
Cheers Greg
Im using a Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, all kinds of different resins.... for clear i use Detax freeprint mould...its 405nm( 120s Base, 7 layers and 8s per layer) works great...)....Some from Resione...
