swtnate
100+ Head-Fier
This is awesome. Ive never been able to get a silicone set I could be proud of. You’re really limited in drivers selection as they cant be back vented…Silicone ciems. Clear canals, colored shells.
This is awesome. Ive never been able to get a silicone set I could be proud of. You’re really limited in drivers selection as they cant be back vented…Silicone ciems. Clear canals, colored shells.
Holy crap my dude. How did you make the molds? Maaan these look great. Did you also use Lack B? Is it easy to trim the silicone to shape to remove burrs from the mold?Silicone ciems. Clear canals, colored shells.
Yeah I guess that would be the case but getting the same slope would already be pretty good IMO since it's more complicated to design a low pass filter. Thanks for letting me know though.Wouldn't you get the same slope as the slope of the high-passed driver? You can try though.
Is that a BA spout mounted to it? Is there a graph or more info to it? I couldn't really find it. Thanks!Couple of years ago there's already have DIYer's doing it.
I looked into those IEMs and I saw AAW said on their website that they use inverse phasing or something, I guess that's what I'm looking for. Thanks!I think this is the same as AAWxCustom Art Isobaric layout and JH Audio's Jolene Dual driver.
This is the problem I ALWAYS had. sanding out and polishing was awful. On top of that, the connector would ALWAYS pull out….Holy crap my dude. How did you make the molds? Maaan these look great. Did you also use Lack B? Is it easy to trim the silicone to shape to remove burrs from the mold?
Most of the time, the “negative” is 3D printed with small air hole canals. the old school way was done with plaster. i can get the plaster mold done great. I can get all the drivers in place. The main issue is 1) the polishing of the faceplate area and 2) a 2-pin, mmcx or trs connector that wont pull out of the IEM.Can you flash freeze the silicone surface to sand/polish? Freeze spray or upside down compressed air maybe, or set on a piece of dry ice.
Iirc, lear used to do silicone shells that are hollow. A friend of mine had one before. Sockets were held with acrylic inside.This is the problem I ALWAYS had. sanding out and polishing was awful. On top of that, the connector would ALWAYS pull out….
WHOAIirc, lear used to do silicone shells that are hollow. A friend of mine had one before. Sockets were held with acrylic inside.
Tubing - For both driversIs there a way to find a good driver's config by looking at FR from the manufacturer? I do not have a sound measuring device and have to rely only on FR. I am trying to use Langzhisheng drivers since they are cheap and I want to have more hands-on experience without spending too much, but there is not much info about them anywhere. I am trying to make 2 bores config since that's the maximum capacity for my ear canal.
I want to have a natural, but the vocal is close to my ear kind of sound so I was thinking
EJ-30029-000
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2271799817330891.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.1.73753e99Q2weCo&pdp_npi=2@dis!USD!US $26.00!US $26.00!US $24.70!!!!@0b0a050116562604955557152ec49d!12000018860233350!sh
EG-29689-000
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2261800061761371.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.5.1efe52a4kew05U&pdp_npi=2@dis!USD!US $10.00!US $10.00!US $10.00!!!!@0b0a050116562604955557153ec49d!12000024331124436!sh
To me, it looks like they will have a pretty flat line.... or am I wrong.
I also do not know what I should use for the crossover value.
Can anyone help me out, please?
Thank you for your reply.Tubing - For both drivers
12 mm long, 3mm x 2mm
yellow damper on the sub, white damper on the 29689
10 Ω resistor -> 4.7uf cap -> 29689
then, an L pad to the sub to taste.
They are adequate. I normally place the yellow closer to the bore and the white toward the middle. I cant give you a firm l-pad value. But, you can plug the resistance value of the driver into an l-pad calculator.Thank you for your reply.
Where should I put the damper? (middle of the tube, end of the bore)
Can you recommend the L pad value? I want to cut down 10 dB which I think it will make relative a flat FR. (Maybe a slight bass boost)
Have you used any other drivers from LS? I am trying to buy a variety of drivers since they are on sale and I want to build different configs.
Thank you again for your help.
okay, thank you so much!They are adequate. I normally place the yellow closer to the bore and the white toward the middle. I cant give you a firm l-pad value. But, you can plug the resistance value of the driver into an l-pad calculator.
Not really. Ive mainly used the 96, and the 32257. also, their dual 32257 is really nice.okay, thank you so much!
Do you know any other configs? Like using LS TWEK, FWEK or DEK with crossover?
How did you do with dual 32257? Just two drivers in each unit?Not really. Ive mainly used the 96, and the 32257. also, their dual 32257 is really nice.