[Aldo40]

For the varnish, the brush delivered with is enough because the varnishes are self smoothing.

the preparation of the surface of the shell is the key to a successful varnish.

Varnish the shel and rotate it for 10 minutes out of the UV so that it will auto smooth.

Then I let it turn 5 minutes with UV and varnish and perfectly smooth.

I think you don’t need an airbrush, a lot of professionals do that with a brush

 

[stegeoc]

ah.. rotate before curing That sounds like a very useful tip, thanks! I've been lighting it up straight away

 

[Aldo40]

yes I put two successive thin layers, I pay attention that I do not leave any bubble or dust point and I let it turn 5 minutes, you can leave it 10 minutes even

and then we turn on the UV.

have often said that it takes 1 minute of UV treatment, but personally I find that it is not enough, 5 minutes is good.

 

[swtnate]

ah.. rotate before curing That sounds like a very useful tip, thanks! I've been lighting it up straight away

Where you see the benefit is on the faceplate. Brushing on the shell lays out really smooth fairly easily. The faceplate is next to impossible, for me anyway, to get to lay down flat. once you see a sprayed finish, you’ll see the benefits. all these lacquers require turning on a motor after application. I turn each shell for 10-15 minutes. Then I cure. Be sure to follow the cure times on the sheet. Every lacquer/ shellac is different. Sure you dont have to have an airbrush. Its really nice have one.

 

[swtnate]

I haven’t tested the shellac detax yet, I only tested lake3 and pro3dure.
Is the detax really better?

It really is phenomenal. It doesnt attract dust fro
the room. It flows out to a smooth thin coating. So, you for sure cant really build up the shell with it like you possibly can with Lack3 or pro3dure L1. Its my favorite. IF you can get it. They also have an AWESOME silicone impression lacquer thats supposed to build like dipping wax but without all the controls and equipment required. Its then heat cured.

 

[devmeista]

It really is phenomenal. It doesnt attract dust fro
the room. It flows out to a smooth thin coating. So, you for sure cant really build up the shell with it like you possibly can with Lack3 or pro3dure L1. Its my favorite. IF you can get it. They also have an AWESOME silicone impression lacquer thats supposed to build like dipping wax but without all the controls and equipment required. Its then heat cured.

Where you see the benefit is on the faceplate. Brushing on the shell lays out really smooth fairly easily. The faceplate is next to impossible, for me anyway, to get to lay down flat. once you see a sprayed finish, you’ll see the benefits. all these lacquers require turning on a motor after application. I turn each shell for 10-15 minutes. Then I cure. Be sure to follow the cure times on the sheet. Every lacquer/ shellac is different. Sure you dont have to have an airbrush. Its really nice have one.

What are you using as a turntable? I have a curing station for post process of 3d resin print but I don’t think I can turn without lights, and covering emitters seems like heat overload.

 

[Aldo40]

It really is phenomenal. It doesnt attract dust fro
the room. It flows out to a smooth thin coating. So, you for sure cant really build up the shell with it like you possibly can with Lack3 or pro3dure L1. Its my favorite. IF you can get it. They also have an AWESOME silicone impression lacquer thats supposed to build like dipping wax but without all the controls and equipment required. Its then heat cured.

I ordered 100ml I would see well I have good results with lake3 but I am curious to see the difference

 

[mattmatt]

I ordered 100ml I would see well I have good results with lake3 but I am curious to see the difference

where did you order yours?

 

[swtnate]

I ordered 100ml I would see well I have good results with lake3 but I am curious to see the difference

Its a 4 minute cure time opposed to the usual 1-2. So, be aware.

What are you using as a turntable? I have a curing station for post process of 3d resin print but I don’t think I can turn without lights, and covering emitters seems like heat overload.

i built one from the instructions on this forum. it runs on double A batteries. I also bought one from lightening enterprises that runs on 9 volt. My double AA’s last longer.

 

[stegeoc]

yes I put two successive thin layers, I pay attention that I do not leave any bubble or dust point and I let it turn 5 minutes, you can leave it 10 minutes even

and then we turn on the UV.

have often said that it takes 1 minute of UV treatment, but personally I find that it is not enough, 5 minutes is good.

When you say two successive layers, do you mean two layers prior to any curing? Not curing at all after the first? I realise it will start yellowing after too much exposure but I guess two blasts should be ok.

The latest unexpected problem I had was with gluing the tubes onto the BAs. The tubes had a good fit when dry but once I added epoxy they became too slippery and kept coming off. I did both at the same time so had a hard time holding them both still for long enough for it to set. Eventually used super glue and I think it's ok. Just hope nothing went in the nozzles

 

[Aldo40]

Its a 4 minute cure time opposed to the usual 1-2. So, be aware.

I cure the lake3 for 4-5 minutes so I won’t be disoriented

 

[Aldo40]

where did you order yours?

here
https://syntecshop.com/

 

[Aldo40]

When you say two successive layers, do you mean two layers prior to any curing? Not curing at all after the first? I realise it will start yellowing after too much exposure but I guess two blasts should be ok.

yes two thin layers at the same time before exposure

 

[mattmatt]

here
https://syntecshop.com/

oh wow, the price difference compared to warnertech is huge.

 

[Aldo40]

oh wow, the price difference compared to warnertech is huge.

How much does 100ml cost at warnertech?