Home-Made IEMs
Jun 22, 2019 at 12:38 AM Post #9,377 of 15,989
Dhruv is on fire lol. I haven't checked that thread for a few days and now I feel like I am back to school with those text book notes :nerd:

I am half lost between all the designs that were posted.
It was first pioneered by ocharaku(tube phase cancelling)
Makoto yamagishi sensei

I read his paper, but it was all stated at cancelling single point and he didn't take the consideration of ripple effect of continuous cancelling and construction

But I inspected it closer and found out that it behaves something like newton ring and Thomas young double slit experiment.

Strongest point in center, then lower in quantity yet stronger reverse point, followed by energy loss to other point.

And then the effect of longer tube and difference of ID.

It gave me a tonne of variable(independent frequency variable and strongly dependent frequency, effect of decay etc)


And ocharaku use to tune the iem with specific tip. But if he would have added a resonator, all the dips and peak would have been smoothened out, so insertion depth variable would have been lowered and more smoother approach to sound would have been possible.



LOL


Have fun designing IEM(I just made it more complex)



Now the interesting part.

Recently I was reading the effect of ferrofluid and natural crossover.

Well it is related to natural crossover

And I was thinking of cheaper Savant

RAB32063 as ED29689
RAB32037 as ED30761

Now the catch is that 32063 peaks at 3kHz instead of 2kHz
RAB32037 peaks at 2.5kHz( ED29689 + 20ohms) instead of 3kHz

So how should I damp it, to get the same kind of response savant had


Plus I have inductance for both of the driver. Plus both are sealed driver, so they will be fast as heck

So that would be fun



Update(the above is valid, this is a new design)


RAB32066
RAB32063

Both driver share same 1.2mm tube stretched and the config end as resonator and horn like RAB-p

Damper is brown


Zobel circuit for Parallel full range

Rz = 28.5ohms
Cz = 6.5uF
 
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Jun 22, 2019 at 8:11 AM Post #9,378 of 15,989
I have read that ochokaru article a while back.
I personally was thinking of 3dprinting a tubing system with double output from the spout. one output would be spiraling over the straight one, so it arrives at a different phases an allow to control some peaks and dips I would like to tame.
the thing is that it's complicated stuff and would need an stl printer to get the tubing system right. then I would need to spend a few months to dial things in probably lol

also I would need to see if using one driver only with this kind of system will still allow for enough spl


so for the time being I gave up on that idea
 
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Jun 22, 2019 at 8:13 AM Post #9,379 of 15,989
I have read that ochokaru article a while back.
I personally was thinking of 3dprinting a tubing system with double output from the spout. one output would be spiraling over the straight one, so it arrives at a different phases an allow to control some peaks and dips I would like to tame.
the thing is that it's complicated stuff and would need an stl printer to get the tubing system right. then I would need to spend a few months to dial things in probably lol
so for the time being I gave up on that idea
It can be done with normal tubes also though
 
Jun 22, 2019 at 8:30 AM Post #9,381 of 15,989
yes, at least for the testing just connecting straight tubes. but I would be constrained with standard diameters tubing and it would take more space
Then, add a resonator inside

Fire all sound inside the Huge AF resonator and then use a carry tube to shoot sound to the ears

What I said, that ocharaku didn't made the peak average out, which lead to weirdness with different tips and different insertion.

And best part is that you can have all cancellation and addition of phase on resonator itself
 
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Jun 22, 2019 at 8:35 AM Post #9,382 of 15,989
Then, add a resonator inside

Fire all sound inside the Huge AF resonator and then use a carry tube to shoot sound to the ears

What I said, that ocharaku didn't made the peak average out, which lead to weirdness with different tips and different insertion.

And best part is that you can have all cancellation and addition of phase on resonator itself

Could you post a link to that article ? I'd like to read it
 
Jun 22, 2019 at 10:52 AM Post #9,386 of 15,989
I have heard that there are 3 type of ferrofluid damping

1. Coil structure
2. Motor structure
3. Total immersion

FED is coil structure damping
FFC, because it III damping, to compensate the III bass damping, was I guess done to motor structure level

Total immersion driver are custom ordered for natural crossover(limiting driver frequency extension)

FFC is faster than FED..... And I mean tight, fast. Its like lightning. Boosted bass doesnt decay. It rumbles and stop there. Midrange is crazy fast

Songs feel like they or on 1.2x speed, which feels weird

FED is like 1.1x speed but damm that treble(I once wrote that treble was missing, but I considered damping then). Without damper, it blows away SWFK treble by miles.


Now I was going through this new thought

Most of the BA are 4th order cabinet and 6th order cabinet.
And BA produce high SPL, while the thickness of BA wall are very thin plus they are made out of metal.

This can be a problem. I was thinking of coating the BA with rubber like material, so metal body gets damped


This is all for experiments. I think it would clear up the bass and treble
 
Jun 22, 2019 at 11:33 AM Post #9,387 of 15,989
I have heard that there are 3 type of ferrofluid damping

1. Coil structure
2. Motor structure
3. Total immersion

FED is coil structure damping
FFC, because it III damping, to compensate the III bass damping, was I guess done to motor structure level

Total immersion driver are custom ordered for natural crossover(limiting driver frequency extension)

FFC is faster than FED..... And I mean tight, fast. Its like lightning. Boosted bass doesnt decay. It rumbles and stop there. Midrange is crazy fast

Songs feel like they or on 1.2x speed, which feels weird

FED is like 1.1x speed but damm that treble(I once wrote that treble was missing, but I considered damping then). Without damper, it blows away SWFK treble by miles.


Now I was going through this new thought

Most of the BA are 4th order cabinet and 6th order cabinet.
And BA produce high SPL, while the thickness of BA wall are very thin plus they are made out of metal.

This can be a problem. I was thinking of coating the BA with rubber like material, so metal body gets damped


This is all for experiments. I think it would clear up the bass and treble

You should try to coat them with liquid latex, its cheap and easy to remove if necessary, I used it to make some molds a while back and I think it's perfect for that.

Perhaps you should revisit the savant again, but swap the ed for a bass boosted ffc

How far does the fr of the fed extent ? On the papers they only go until 8khz..
 
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Jun 22, 2019 at 11:36 AM Post #9,388 of 15,989
You should try to coat them with liquid latex, its cheap and easy to remove if necessary, I used it to make some molds a while back and I think it's perfect for that.

Perhaps you should revisit the savant again, but swap the ed for a bass boosted ffc
ED cannot be swapped with FFC

Because FFC peaks at 3kHz

And we need fullranger to peak at 2kHz

FED in Final 2(Savant final old name) with ED30761 is faster than planar magnetic headphones. Its faster than standalone FFC.
It is like 1.3x speed without pitch shift.

I will try coating a plate of aluminum with liquid latex first to check if it dampens the ringing of plate.

I am thinking of using tufkote tufclad or speaydead liquid based(non diluted) with brush on BA.
 
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Jun 22, 2019 at 1:01 PM Post #9,390 of 15,989
This can be a problem. I was thinking of coating the BA with rubber like material, so metal body gets damped
I can tell you that filling up the ear canal and immerse part of the driver in resin does reduce distortion a lot.

You have to pay attention to the vents of the drivers though, some ED have an almost invisible vent that needs to stay open.
 

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