[dhruvmeena96]

So I just tested dhruvmeena96's 4xRAB design. I used 4x RAB32063 in a series-parallel configuration with a zobel of 5uf + 38ohms, with a series resistor of 30ohms. Measurements are below. Impedance is much flatter, and phase is flat too! Frequency response is measured through a 3mm diameter by 15mm length tube. Though I'm still waiting for my universal shells to arrive so I can't finish building them yet. Just by listening to the drivers, they sounded very clear and had great bass slam (though it was a very poor seal due to the lack of proper shells). Hope to listen to more of this when my shells and filters arrive.

Spoiler: Impedance Chart

Spoiler: Frequency Response - The one in green, ignore the other ones.

I did zobel for phase flattening issues.
I learned the fact that speaker dont phase shift that much in closed space, as compared to Balanced armature...some flagship headphones too. So a zobel corrects that and add the depthness, since timing is more correct and our mind can place things better in space. Added advantage is for impedance swings

But since I said zobel was not complete..
Today I am going to introduce a new technique(it is registered, so cannot be used for sale purposes.
But it requires 2 drivers

Rs1 connected in series of driver
Rs1 = DCR of driver


Dual parallel for MASM(for MASM, the two driver share same tube, without dampers) upgrade or standalone

Driver 1 assembly
RAB32033 + 22ohm resistor

Driver 2 assembly
RAB32033 + 22ohm resistor

Parallel Driver 1 assembly with Driver 2 assembly

New DCR= 22 ohms
New 500 = 27.5 ohms(33 ohms orignal)
Highest peak = 111 ohms(200 ohms original)

Since the DCR and 500 Hz are near to each other, inductance value can be taken as DCR which is now 3.9uH

Cz= 5.2uF
Rz= 27.5ohms

Rs2 is normal series resistor to whole circuit
Rs2 = 33ohms





For quad parallel

Driver 1 assembly
RAB32033 + 66ohm resistor

Driver 2 assembly
RAB32033 + 66ohm resistor

Driver 3 assembly
RAB32033 + 66ohm resistor

Driver 4 assembly
RAB32033 + 66ohm resistor

Parallel all assembly

New DCR= 22 ohms
New 500 = 24.75 ohms(33 ohms orignal)
Highest peak =66.5 ohms(200 ohms original)

Zobel
Cz= 2.6uF
Rz= 27.5ohms

Rs2 is normal series resistor to whole circuit
Rs2 = 33ohms



Lemme explain my thinking behind this

Since DCR is same as original(before Rs2)...and impedance is flat, it will send nearly same power as single driver(slightly higher, since low and flat impedance there is). Zobel circuit while showing amp balanced load resistive, kills HF noise and treble distortions, then it splits to 4x or 2x driver with specific resistor.

This means the amp is divided in 2 or 4. Then if we take single driver, the added resistance makes it drive lower and faster, while also killing some of the noises and distortion over all the single drive which when we see is only playing 25% of overall load.

Rs2 is for finishing touches

 

[eunice]

Hey, wanted to build my own CIEM, and was wondering if there was a driver setup I could buy off the shelf that is as good as westones w40 or Shure SE535s. Anyone has any recommendations for drivers? I listen mostly to acoustic and classical music

I would recommend you try to build a Knowles GV or Bellsing 6 driver based CIEM. These drivers sound crazy good and are very easy to build (just attach 2 wires, socket and 2 tubes), but they are not cheap and you definitively will break drivers. If you want to go a cheaper route and are not afraid of soldering, try the 2x RAB design by @dhruvmeena96 in the previous post.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Hey, wanted to build my own CIEM, and was wondering if there was a driver setup I could buy off the shelf that is as good as westones w40 or Shure SE535s. Anyone has any recommendations for drivers? I listen mostly to acoustic and classical music

What is the cost limit?
What level of electronics you know?
What sort is sound preference you have

If you are afraid of soldering

Take 2x RAB32257 p183 version with soldered wire

Driver 1 assembly
RAB32257 + 22ohm resistor

Driver 2 assembly
RAB32257 + 22ohm resistor

Parallel Driver 1 assembly with Driver 2 assembly

Zobel circuit(it has to connect between mmcx or 2pin and the paralleled driver assembly)
Cz= 5.2uF
Rz= 27.5ohms

Then add a Series resistance of 33ohms in between Connection port(mmcx or 2pin) and zobel.



Review on MASM4.....larger midrange presence, less treble, larger bass presence. I prefer MASM3. MASM4 is like Audeze LCD classic whereas MASM3 is like Audeze LCD4 in sound signature and opposite in technical comparison.

Both have more than enough soundstage but MASM4 has more soundstage....but issue is intimate stage is lacking a lot....which MASM3 has

 

[ChrisJensen]

I would recommend you try to build a Knowles GV or Bellsing 6 driver based CIEM. These drivers sound crazy good and are very easy to build (just attach 2 wires, socket and 2 tubes), but they are not cheap and you definitively will break drivers. If you want to go a cheaper route and are not afraid of soldering, try the 2x RAB design by @dhruvmeena96 in the previous post.

Thank you so much for the quick response. I guess I'll purchase all of the drivers and start on some experimenting. Thanks again, good sir!

 

[ChrisJensen]

What is the cost limit?
What level of electronics you know?
What sort is sound preference you have

If you are afraid of soldering

Take 2x RAB32257 p183 version with soldered wire

Driver 1 assembly
RAB32257 + 22ohm resistor

Driver 2 assembly
RAB32257 + 22ohm resistor

Parallel Driver 1 assembly with Driver 2 assembly

Zobel circuit(it has to connect between mmcx or 2pin and the paralleled driver assembly)
Cz= 5.2uF
Rz= 27.5ohms

Then add a Series resistance of 33ohms in between Connection port(mmcx or 2pin) and zobel.



Review on MASM4.....larger midrange presence, less treble, larger bass presence. I prefer MASM3. MASM4 is like Audeze LCD classic whereas MASM3 is like Audeze LCD4 in sound signature and opposite in technical comparison.

Both have more than enough soundstage but MASM4 has more soundstage....but issue is intimate stage is lacking a lot....which MASM3 has

Thanks a lot for the quick reply and suggestions!

I'm not very articulate with my sound preference, but I've tried the Shure 535s and love them for the very impressive bass and clear mids and highs. I don't mind sacrificing bass for even clearer mids, highs and treble along with clear sound separation.
Music I listen mostly to is simply classical concerto, acoustic music and occasionally pop.

I don't really have a budget and anything goes with the price.

Naturally, I have no experience with electronics but I'm good at studying. Do you have any links to guides, books or videos that I can use? Really appreciate the help here, my good sir!

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Thanks a lot for the quick reply and suggestions!

I'm not very articulate with my sound preference, but I've tried the Shure 535s and love them for the very impressive bass and clear mids and highs. I don't mind sacrificing bass for even clearer mids, highs and treble along with clear sound separation.
Music I listen mostly to is simply classical concerto, acoustic music and occasionally pop.

I don't really have a budget and anything goes with the price.

Naturally, I have no experience with electronics but I'm good at studying. Do you have any links to guides, books or videos that I can use? Really appreciate the help here, my good sir!

Well there is one thing you can read
@Furco
This member wrote a compilation of post and his points in a doc....which is amazing for beginners starting of

Doing Noble Savant DIY would be the easiest... If you know soldering.

If Soldering

1. Noble savant DIY
2. Quad RAB 32063 series parallel zobel resisted
3. MASM3 or Original MASM

Dont know Soldering, but have to try without risking.

1. Quad RAB 32257-P183(same as above things)
2. Single RAB zobel and series resisted

 

[cchitsun]

Hi all,

after a few times of adjustment, built my first CIEM, that produces quite nice outcome.
Here s my combination, hope might help you have a idea when you build your own.

38AM007 parallel with a 10ohm resistor and serious with a 4.7uF cap.
2389 parallel with a 10uF cap
31736 parallel with a 1uF cap

dampers entirely up to your own preference.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Hi all,

after a few times of adjustment, built my first CIEM, that produces quite nice outcome.
Here s my combination, hope might help you have a idea when you build your own.

38AM007 parallel with a 10ohm resistor and serious with a 4.7uF cap.
2389 parallel with a 10uF cap
31736 parallel with a 1uF cap

dampers entirely up to your own preference.

Yo bro
Sonion 38AM007 with a parallel CR(RC) circuit.
Do you have inductance for these drivers or was hit and trial..

Otherwise, it seems nice as a build

 

[Cevisi]

What will it cost to make a listenable iem compareble like dm6 or kanas pro ?

 

[eunice]

What will it cost to make a listenable iem compareble like dm6 or kanas pro ?

Custom or universal? For custom you will have to calculate around 20€ per shell, but with all the materials and equipment you will need to buy it’s a few hundred euro up front.

Universal shells are between 5€ and 40€.

The driver are the most expensive part, depending on what you want to build they can cost from a few € to 100€ for the pair. The rest is cheap, connectors, wire, faceplate and so on.

Short answer: if you plan to do one or two pairs, DIY it’s going to be more expensive than buying off the shelf. Much more expensive. If cost is your concern just buy a pair of KZ ZS10 for 25€, you cannot beat that in terms of price/performance.

The reward is in enjoying the build and tuning them exactly to your preferences.

 

[Cevisi]

Custom or universal? For custom you will have to calculate around 20€ per shell, but with all the materials and equipment you will need to buy it’s a few hundred euro up front.

Universal shells are between 5€ and 40€.


The driver are the most expensive part, depending on what you want to build they can cost from a few € to 100€ for the pair. The rest is cheap, connectors, wire, faceplate and so on.

Short answer: if you plan to do one or two pairs, DIY it’s going to be more expensive than buying off the shelf. Much more expensive. If cost is your concern just buy a pair of KZ ZS10 for 25€, you cannot beat that in terms of price/performance.

The reward is in enjoying the build and tuning them exactly to your preferences.

Money is not the problem i am electrican and like iems so i like to do this as hobby but i dont want spend alot of money for somthing that sounds crap

These 100 dollar drivers are they sounding good if they build in nicley

Can i do the shelfs by self whit resin or are you guys buyin empty shels from somewhere ?

The question is lohnt sich das oder doch lieber garnicht erst anfangen

 

[magnificientako]

I opened my Kz Zsa because too much v shape sound.Dynamic bass drivers removed and put the knowles drivers from the ue600 into it.But i did not remove the zsa tweeters.Sound is not bad.

 

[eunice]

Money is not the problem i am electrican and like iems so i like to do this as hobby but i dont want spend alot of money for somthing that sounds crap

These 100 dollar drivers are they sounding good if they build in nicley

Can i do the shelfs by self whit resin or are you guys buyin empty shels from somewhere ?

The question is lohnt sich das oder doch lieber garnicht erst anfangen

It is absolutely worth it. It won’t sound crap, you will easily compete with very expensive gear.
I started the hobby because I did not want to spend a thousand bucks on custom in ears that might not fit properly. But the sound and comfort I achieved with just a few builds is insanely good. You cannot compare the sound CIEMs to speakers or over ear headphones, they sound entirely different. The noise isolation and clarity of the sound is simply not possible with any other form factor. Of course you have the same limitations in 3D imaging as any headphones and you won’t feel any bass punching your chest.

In universals you need to make a compromise between comfort (=soft tips), seal (required for bass) and too soft tips reducing high frequencies. This problem does not exist with CIEMs.

Since you‘re a German, you can buy resin from McEar.de. McEar also has Knowles GV drivers and kits with tubes, sockets and the likes to get you started. They are enthusiasts too and love to share tricks.

 

[Xymordos]

Hi all,

after a few times of adjustment, built my first CIEM, that produces quite nice outcome.
Here s my combination, hope might help you have a idea when you build your own.

38AM007 parallel with a 10ohm resistor and serious with a 4.7uF cap.
2389 parallel with a 10uF cap
31736 parallel with a 1uF cap

dampers entirely up to your own preference.

Wait you meant capacitor in series in the 2389 and 31736, and parallel on the 3800 right...?

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Wait you meant capacitor in series in the 2389 and 31736, and parallel on the 3800 right...?

Well I think,
You are right @Xymordos
If we read carefully, he swapped parallel with series
LoL

What will it cost to make a listenable iem compareble like dm6 or kanas pro ?

Money is not the problem i am electrican and like iems so i like to do this as hobby but i dont want spend alot of money for somthing that sounds crap

These 100 dollar drivers are they sounding good if they build in nicley

Can i do the shelfs by self whit resin or are you guys buyin empty shels from somewhere ?

The question is lohnt sich das oder doch lieber garnicht erst anfangen

Ja, es ist einen Versuch wert
Kanas pro will be hard as it is a Harman target

DM6 is easy and @Ivan TT bellsing 6 10013 version sounds even better than DM6.

Best cheap and easiest one is Noble Savant DIY. Replace the ED29689 with Sonion 2354 and see how the stage expands. And it is just dual driver. I think it is better than both Kanas(not pro) and DM6.

You can try MASM, if structure of stage and airy resolution is what you need. 3 drivers and distort less than multi driver setup. Well, it is FIBAE3 alternative for me.

You can also try Quad RABz. It is meant for technical sound and lowest distortions

All are cheap design