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Is anyone using their v2s completely stock without a grill mod etc. and enjoying them? Or is the modding essentially mandatory?
I disagree when it comes to the HE-6. Unless the Liquid Gold X, Lyr 3, and Sa-1 are all terrible amps with bad topology, then 4w is not enough. I am not the alone in this view. There was a very noticeable improvement when I went from 4w to 7w, then finally to 14w.4w @ 50ohm is more than enough unless the amp has topology problems.
A nice class A or class A/B amp pushing 2.5-3w at 50 ohm is already more than enough
Totally enjoying my Adorama Hifiman HE6SE V2 without mod's, using only 2w from a Hybrid Tube/SS amp, the Xduoo TA-20.Is anyone using their v2s completely stock without a grill mod etc. and enjoying them? Or is the modding essentially mandatory?
How is the stock HE6SE v2 on soundstage size?Totally enjoying my Adorama Hifiman HE6SE V2 without mod's, using only 2w from a Hybrid Tube/SS amp, the Xduoo TA-20.
After a couple of months of listening, rolling about 10 pairs of tubes, I'm not so sure I need more power, as I'm not getting distorted audio at the top setting of 85 out of 95 - and I can't turn it up any further as it is too loud. I'm using 12AU7 pre-amplifier tubes, and the TA-20 supports 12AT7 and 12AX7 so I ordered a couple of inexpensive unused / NOS (measured) pair to see if there is any volume boost or if they are going to overdrive the SS section.
I've watched BGGAR's recent video and I am tempted to get those add-on's for fun, but I really like how the stock band fits me, I can wear if for hours without any discomfort, and the way I have to pick up the headphones - touching the mesh screen - IDK if I could feel comfortable with large holes I could push my pinky through - and damage the driver. Same goes for the pads, those are huge and the ones I have in the stock headband are perfectly comfortable.
Nah, I'm not gonna mod the HE6SE V2's now, but I think I'll pick up the parts and hold on to them for a far future time when I've run out of other things to do
People greatly confuse tonal qualities of the amp to the power driven by it. You are not inputting 14 watts into 50 ohms unless you are literally blowing out your drivers.I disagree when it comes to the HE-6. Unless the Liquid Gold X, Lyr 3, and Sa-1 are all terrible amps with bad topology, then 4w is not enough. I am not the alone in this view. There was a very noticeable improvement when I went from 4w to 7w, then finally to 14w.
I'm not confusing anything. If you would use the search function on this very forum or go to any other thread about this headphone, then you will find many people using stereo amps. There's a reason Hifiman used to sell their own stereo tap for these. I am just relating my experience with these headphones and mine follows the standard route for the HE-6 and that is that a more powerful class A stereo amp does make an improvement. I used them with the Lyr 3, LGX, and the SA-1 and they all had the same issues with the Bifrost 2 being the DAC. The biggest being they distort in high gain when using FLAC files or streaming in FLAC/MQA.People greatly confuse tonal qualities of the amp to the power driven by it. You are not inputting 14 watts into 50 ohms unless you are literally blowing out your drivers.
You are dropping your gain and using a better more capable amp.
That viewpoint is literally incompatible with the reality of how transducers function.I'm not confusing anything. If you would use the search function on this very forum or go to any other thread about this headphone, then you will find many people using stereo amps. There's a reason Hifiman used to sell their own stereo tap for these. I am just relating my experience with these headphones and mine follows the standard route for the HE-6 and that is that a more powerful class A stereo amp does make an improvement. I used them with the Lyr 3, LGX, and the SA-1 and they all had the same issues with the Bifrost 2 being the DAC. The biggest being they distort in high gain when using FLAC files or streaming in FLAC/MQA.
Widest next to the Hifiman Ananda, they are both detailed with a wide sound stage, and at least with the TA-20 the Ananda has enough sub-bass/bass - but the HE6SE V2 has much more. They are both excellent headphones. The Ananda is still only $699, down from $999. Maybe the HE6SE V2 will price drop again when another "boat-load" arrives.How is the stock HE6SE v2 on soundstage size?
It isn't a Benchmark for soundstage. But in no way is it a small soundstage either. Very desk bookspeaker like feeling; like sitting loudly in front of their sweetspot (with no extra air feeling).How is the stock HE6SE v2 on soundstage size?
I think even 2.5w-3w is plenty as long as it's a quality amp with a clean topology, rated wattage is generally for continuous current and not peak, good amps can usually push higher for a short period until they will clip due to being unable to sustain higher current, assuming a good noise floor on top of that you should be fineYou dont need 14 watts to enjoy the he6. you wont have any volume control for one.
I think the ideal target is 4-6 Watt for a headphone amp or 25-50W at 8ohms speaker amp, so you actually have some volume control and less likely to have noise issues.
The amp's characteristics and quality is much more important than pure power/power reserve. Yes I think its important to have some headroom but I don't think you need 14W of it either. But this is just my opinion.
The main reason Hifiman sold the HE taps was that HE6 was released in 2009 when most headphone amps did not have the power they do today. If you read up on why Schiit and others re-designed their headphone amps, it was mostly for the very rare use case of the HE6 or LCD planars which required much more power than what most headphone amps could back 10-12 years ago.
Glad that someone asked the same question!Is anyone using their v2s completely stock without a grill mod etc. and enjoying them? Or is the modding essentially mandatory?