[wrinex]

Well hello !

My name is Joppe live in the Netherlands and just gotten started in making my own Planar Magnetic Headphones, i am a rather newbie at head-fi gear. but made some other stuff the last few years, i have my own Youtube channel with weird designs of tweeters and speaker related stuff, where i usually make everything (or most) myself (except cone woofers) so i thought i start a headphone video series. well im on my way of converting a really really cheap Sennheiser headphone to a planar magnetic. but as i said im a rather headphone noob so all input is welcome

i noticed i cant make a post in the DiY section.. something im here for to be honest , can someone explain me to obtain the privileges to do so >?

heres my channel with most of the builds i did in the past.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeBox1lGM29f72KL2KrDm7A


Thanks for letting me in , god knows how long ago ... since i wanted to make a account but the user name was in use... so i had one already haha.

Greetings from the Netherlands !

 

[ylekot]

You have skills!! Welcome to the madness

 

[GREQ]

I think you need 15 posts before you can start posting elsewhere in the forum.

Wow, nice DIY work.
I noticed your planar drivers are being glued directly to the magnet housing. In my opinion, I think this will introduce more problems than it solves.
While it does benefit in making production faster and easier, it also means the driver has an unnatural square shape which doesn't allow the diaphragm to move uniformly, therefore introducing distortion.
While there have been some square shape successes like the Fostex T50mkII (onwards) and the Technics EAH-830/820, I'm not a big fan of the resulting presentation of sound.
Also, this design method prevents you from easily replacing faulty diaphragms or trying out different magnets without sacrificing part integrity, or partial destruction.

Almost all the vintage planars I've disassembled and inspected in the past had a design that was more like a sandwich of 3 main parts.
The diaphragm would be glued to it's own separate 'tension' ring (low tension) that also often acted as a spacer between the magnet arrays. Normally between the diaphragm tension ring would be at least one layer of foam to act as a friction compressor and acoustic seal.
This extra space provided by the tension ring, combined with a diaphragm that is not so tightly stretched will allow for more driver flex and deeper bass tone reproduction. If there is too much tension, sub-bass will most likely be choked. I don't think they should be tight like a drum, how they sound in your video.

After this, the absolute most critical aspect of planar driver tuning is the ear pads. The depth of the pad, distance from ear to transducer and the size/volume of the opening will always have a monumental impact on the frequency response of a large-planar type headphone.

Obviously, since you're working with a basic sennheiser frame you probably don't want to change to a circular type design, but I think there isn't much work needed to make a change to an oval shape driver. There are also plenty of Brainwavs ear pads (and aftermarket variants from China) that should suit the headphone shape and size, even if you only use that as a starting point to make your own pads.

I've never tried making planar drivers, but I have been modding planars (and headphones in general) for a few years.
For fine tuning, I use a miniDSP E.A.R.S. headphone jig. It's not perfect, but a fun little toy for hobbyists.

Also you got yourself a sub!

 

[wrinex]

I think you need 15 posts before you can start posting elsewhere in the forum.

Wow, nice DIY work.
I noticed your planar drivers are being glued directly to the magnet housing. In my opinion, I think this will introduce more problems than it solves.
While it does benefit in making production faster and easier, it also means the driver has an unnatural square shape which doesn't allow the diaphragm to move uniformly, therefore introducing distortion.
While there have been some square shape successes like the Fostex T50mkII (onwards) and the Technics EAH-830/820, I'm not a big fan of the resulting presentation of sound.
Also, this design method prevents you from easily replacing faulty diaphragms or trying out different magnets without sacrificing part integrity, or partial destruction.

Almost all the vintage planars I've disassembled and inspected in the past had a design that was more like a sandwich of 3 main parts.
The diaphragm would be glued to it's own separate 'tension' ring (low tension) that also often acted as a spacer between the magnet arrays. Normally between the diaphragm tension ring would be at least one layer of foam to act as a friction compressor and acoustic seal.
This extra space provided by the tension ring, combined with a diaphragm that is not so tightly stretched will allow for more driver flex and deeper bass tone reproduction. If there is too much tension, sub-bass will most likely be choked. I don't think they should be tight like a drum, how they sound in your video.

After this, the absolute most critical aspect of planar driver tuning is the ear pads. The depth of the pad, distance from ear to transducer and the size/volume of the opening will always have a monumental impact on the frequency response of a large-planar type headphone.

Obviously, since you're working with a basic sennheiser frame you probably don't want to change to a circular type design, but I think there isn't much work needed to make a change to an oval shape driver. There are also plenty of Brainwavs ear pads (and aftermarket variants from China) that should suit the headphone shape and size, even if you only use that as a starting point to make your own pads.

I've never tried making planar drivers, but I have been modding planars (and headphones in general) for a few years.
For fine tuning, I use a miniDSP E.A.R.S. headphone jig. It's not perfect, but a fun little toy for hobbyists.

Also you got yourself a sub!

In short v2 is oval, but actually resonance wise a circle is the worse shape since all distances are equal, making it an oval spreads resonances. When ill be home ill try reply wirh some more detail. Im at work... hihi

 

[wrinex]

yeah i glue foil to frame directly , i like to keep it simple but the reason might well be since thats what i do for tweeters. since tension needs to be higher i cant use a floppy 1mm thick frame to hold the foil for headphones it might work out fine as you mentioned would also give me 1mm~ in the frame to hold the magnets so i could skip the gluing portion. its still a a clue for me how to get resonance down under 40Hz, only thing i can imagine is more sloppy foil and or bigger headphones. and maybe the method of sealing and earpads in general.
but indeed im rather limited in the size at the moment. since the crappy sennheisers are not to big and i need some room to attach the terminals. hmm terminals is also a reason why a separate frame might screw me up. the countersunk method i use to attach a screw to the foil and then hold a terminal might be harder. i could mill out a hole in the floppy frames in a size that corresponds to the size a typical countersunk screw would have... i should try that since countersinking a hole in a 1mm thick piece might be hard i could attack it tot the magnet frame then countersunk... well so many options to try haha