[adamus]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cfcubed /img/forum/go_quote.gif Bringing a "botched" CTH build to life is no small feat esp. for someone new to DIY... Sure this community came in to guide but you did the measuring & soldering.

tell me about it! remember my high voltage on pin 6 issue. I am experienced, but that had me stumped for a while, and to this day i not quite sure how the opamp pin was grounded.....

at least that led me to work on the heater issue, which cfcubed and runeight then solved.

 

[arteom]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cfcubed /img/forum/go_quote.gif Great! I assume your e12 relay is latching after 30 secs or so (hear the click). Bringing a "botched" CTH build to life is no small feat esp. for someone new to DIY... Sure this community came in to guide but you did the measuring & soldering. AFAIK even the small subset of CTHs that have had build problems have all been brought to life. [/B]

Yeah the click comes in at about 30 seconds. I suppose I did have a role in this

, but that role was mostly causing the damage

.

Quote:

Originally Posted by adamus /img/forum/go_quote.gif arteom, can you do me a favour and measure the voltage of pin 1 and 6 of the tube socket with respect to ground, with the tube in please.

Sure, here are the readings I'm getting -> Pin 1 - 79v, pin6 - 78.5

Quote:

Originally Posted by holland /img/forum/go_quote.gif ^Yes, please do. This is part of the setup steps, you need to complete it. Sorry I didn't get back to you yesterday, haven't had the time.

No problem at all holland, much thanks to all here.

Now to see if I can troubleshoot the LED.

 

[arteom]

[size=large]EDIT:[/size] Nevermind, I was testing the transistors wrong (got a new multimeter and had it setup incorrectly). The finger to the lead making the LED light up still has me a bit baffled though.

Hey guys, I'm getting something really weird with the LED here. I was getting an odd reading on Q5E so I replaced that transistor, the one right next to it (Q4E) was reading correctly so I left it alone. However replacing the transistor didn't solve my LED problems, I am still getting an odd reading out of Q4E. Q5E is reading 11.05v out of one pin, and .005V out of the other. Now here is the really weird part, I had to take off the positive wire for LED1 to access Q5E, after installing the LED turned on (in red color) for a moment. Anyway, I ended up taking off the LED1 positive wire and replacing it with a lead. Here is what happens; when I first turn the unit on, before I hear the click in the e12, if I touch the lead I installed in place of LED1 positive, the LED turns red. Once the e12 trips the light turns off again.

Any ideas on what is going on here?

 

[adamus]

if it turns red when you touch it , it suggests to me its a wiring problem .Reflow the joints carefully on the LED (with joining wires - I assume you have it under the board?)

by the way, your pin 1 and 6 voltages are now spot on!

 

[arteom]

Yeah I suppose a rewire couldn't hurt, I might just solder some leads in and run alligator clips. The reason I am not sure if that is the problem is because this started happening along with the other bigger problems, and I the wiring from that point had not changed at all. And just to clarify it is turning red before the e12 clicks and only when I touch my finger to the LED1 positive lead.

Btw adamus, thanks for sharing that desoldering method, it is working for me pretty well.

 

[arteom]

Rewired it and the LED is lighting up just fine

. Have it hooked up with alligator clips, man I got to say...this thing is quick! Going to start casework on it tomorrow, front should be easy. Hope all fits in the back, opted to use RCA inputs so it will be a tight fit, IF it fits.

 

[cfcubed]

Quote:

Originally Posted by arteom /img/forum/go_quote.gif Rewired it and the LED is lighting up just fine . Have it hooked up with alligator clips, man I got to say...this thing is quick! Going to start casework on it tomorrow, front should be easy. Hope all fits in the back, opted to use RCA inputs so it will be a tight fit, IF it fits.

BTW, there is a not-to-scale template & another template by rds for guidance.
Consider shielded cable runs for rear-panel inputs...