[joseph69]

   
I think you made a great choice.  Mind me asking if you got matched quad or 2 matched pairs?  And the cost?
 
I do want to verify one thing.  You mention that you read that the Amerpex EL34 had a sweeter midrange than the Mullard.  That seems to be different than my own impression.  Since I don't have a EL34 amp here at the moment, I can't verify.  My impression was always that the Mullard had the sweeter midrange.  But this be simply be because the Dutch DD getter el34 do a better job across the entire harmonic range so its midrange doesn't seem as "magical".  Mind pointing me towards where you read that the Dutch EL34 have sweeter midrange?

I am going to purchase a quad matched set at $690.00 They are Amperex Holland EL34's with Bugle Boy logo's and their the same price as the Mullard XF2's.
I've been looking for the post which I read that the Dutch have a sweeter mid-range…or at least I though I had read that?
It very well could be I read it the other way around. If I find it I'll post it…it could have been in a post with a link attached to it, I'm not sure now? Any input on the price I'm going to pay, and the quad matched set s the matched pair?
Thank you.

 

[Crashem]

I am going to purchase a quad matched set at $690.00 They are Amperex Holland EL34's with Bugle Boy logo's and their the same price as the Mullard XF2's.
I've been looking for the post which I read that the Dutch have a sweeter mid-range…or at least I though I had read that?
It very well could be I read it the other way around. If I find it I'll post it…it could have been in a post with a link attached to it, I'm not sure now? Any input on the price I'm going to pay, and the quad matched set s the matched pair?
Thank you.

If they are from a reputable dealer and measure as new, the price means pretty fair. $150 a piece + some extra for matching, I'll send you a PM. Double check what he means by matching. Ideally you want to curve trace and measure transconducence under load for matching,

 

[joseph69]

For those who have received their BHSE recently, what type of isolators does it come with?
I'm asking because the only option I see is for the Alps RK50.
Thanks.

 

[ALSO]

While I'm waiting for a response from Justin, I wanted to ask those who will know much more than me for some advice.
 
I received my BHSE last May and it's been running beautifully without issue since then.  I've not moved it nor tampered with it since I set it up.
 
Several days ago it failed to power on.  I checked the connections and replaced the fuses but it's still unresponsive.  My other components power on fine.
 
Any suggestions?
 
Thanking you in advance.

 

[MacedonianHero]

  While I'm waiting for a response from Justin, I wanted to ask those who will know much more than me for some advice.
 
I received my BHSE last May and it's been running beautifully without issue since then.  I've not moved it nor tampered with it since I set it up.
 
Several days ago it failed to power on.  I checked the connections and replaced the fuses but it's still unresponsive.  My other components power on fine.
 
Any suggestions?
 
Thanking you in advance.

 
Sounds like your fuse has blown. First thing I'd do is pull it out and replace it.

 

[arnaud]

Justin will help you diagnose. In my case, it was the iec power socket that gave up the ghost for some reason.
2 days ago, my D1 also died in the middle of the night, throwing a nasty smell over the whole appartment.

I am starting to question the wall power at my new appartment... In the same room, computer UPS units also sometime go off ringing in the middle of the night for no reason.

 

[karlgerman]

The place i had my business had a similar problem. Scanner, computer and imagesetter, all of them died on sudden death from time to time.
Asking companies and client in the same area had shown that they had the same problem.
Older buildings power system or a faulty electricity supplier could cause that overvoltage.
 
Even though my new place is more modern i bought a power conditioner and
isolating transformer  to protect my hifi equipment.
 
The heavy FURMAN ITReference16Ei should optimize and protect my system from now on.

 

[ALSO]

Thanks for the replies--I did change the fuses, but will buy some new ones just in case.  I also use a power conditioner, and the other components are powering fine, so I'll wait for suggestions from Justin.

 

[statfi]

Just to be sure, did you check all 4 fuses: 2 on the AC input and 2 on the PS output?
 
FWIW, on a related issue, an input fuse would blow on occasion at the end of the warm-up cycle.  After the 2nd time I asked Justin about it, and he replied:
 
"if this is occurring when the relay for the high voltage comes on, it's possible you might just need to go to a 2.5A or 3A fuse"
 
I have been running 3A since then.

 

[bearFNF]

Did you check the old fuses to see if they were blown? Did the new fuses blow on power on or are they still good?

Could there be an issue with the tubes?

 

[ALSO]

Thank you statfi and bearFNF, I'll double-check all four fuses today. I'm not sure if thE fuses blew on powering on, I wasn't paying attention when I'd switched the unit on.

 

[justin w.]

Thank you statfi and bearFNF, I'll double-check all four fuses today. I'm not sure if thE fuses blew on powering on, I wasn't paying attention when I'd switched the unit on.

 
most likely it is the AC input fuses, often they just need to be replaced. On the current batch, I found that the AC input fuse is blowing about 1 out of every 180 power ups. Which could be remedied by going to the next higher current rating
 
The only time I have ever seen the power supply LED not come on with working AC input fuses is in arnaud's case where something happened to the AC input block

 

[zare]

Justin will help you diagnose. In my case, it was the iec power socket that gave up the ghost for some reason.
2 days ago, my D1 also died in the middle of the night, throwing a nasty smell over the whole appartment.

I am starting to question the wall power at my new appartment... In the same room, computer UPS units also sometime go off ringing in the middle of the night for no reason.

 
Maybe its time to invest in automatic voltage stabilizer. Friend of my has similar issues after utility company "upgraded" infrastructure in his neighborhood. After a surge, he lost everything from fridge/TV to dimmers and power switches.
Audio damage: $300 repair bill for two of his Monster AVS 2000. Both of those had more then 25K equipment connected.

 

[ALSO]

I found one of the AC input fuses had blown. I replaced them several times with new fuses but each time the unit would power in momentarily--the LEDs in the PS and amp would light up for a fraction of second--before going dead.

Any thoughts? With thanks in advance.

 

[Crashem]

One of the reasons I have moved to using ps audio regenerator. In addition to the protection it provides, I think it does nicely to solve most of the possible issues before the last 3 feet (your power cord).