[purk]

I think the original T2 does sound excellent and may even edge out the BHSE.  The problem with the T2 is that it generates way too much heat and a proper heat sink should have been used to dissipate that much heat, hence, the "melt down" and reliability issues.

 

[dukeskd]

I think the melt down functionality is very much worth while, it would make toasting my sandwiches a lot easier with the headphones on.

 

[TheAttorney]

  well please let us know how Rachel responds to your questions about quality control.  I believe she sent a 32 page instruction manual to the boys in Hong Kong detailing how to test those tubes. Be careful of asking how she monitors compliance from Canada if she never actually touches the tubes that she sent to you. 

 
I got my Psvane's via ebay, not from Grant Fidelity. However, looking at GF's more recent words on their post-production extra matching and testing, I think the extra $30 or so would be well worth it if I were to get any more Psvanes.
 
Anyway, the culprit of my Unexplained Noise can now be revealed: It was the Tube that did it. The noise did move with the tubes when I swapped them around. Talk about being caught in the act: I could actuallly see some sparks/arcs in one of the PH's - at which point I thought it might be quite a good idea if I switched off the amp.
 
The trouble is, having been spoilt by the PH sound, I'd hate to downgrade now, so it's either another set of PH's or the NOS route - and the latter has its own trials and tribulations, especially for a Tube Noob with no Tube Tester etc.
 
In the meantime, the stock JJs are going back in for a couple of days, so I can lessen my expectations in order to make my Treasures sound good again.
 
Phil95, I'm glad it wasn't the headhones themselves - that would have been much more effort to resolve.

 

[David1961]

I'm pleased you got the problem sorted out Richard, and found out what the culprit was. I'm also thinking on getting a quad of Psvanes, ( eventually ) but I'll be getting them from Grant Fidelity.

 

[livewire]

  I believe black and white to be necesssary in instances like these, as colouration only obfuscates the situation when lucidity is a necessary requirement.
The melting of the T2 in itself is a problem as the heat generated is substantially greater than that already generated in the T2's normal mode. Blisters from the volume knob, which is a normal occurence - is exacerbated when T2 is in meltdown mode.
 
Meltdown, as a concept regarding cheese is a very good prospect and considerably enhances the flavour of the bovine cultured curd.
Meltdown in electronic componentry is in the diametrically opposite camp and is a situation which has severly detrimental effects on the owner's pacificity, fiscal situation and immediate health.
 
The destruction of the amplifying device (T2) could occasion the destruction of it's surroundings such as the headphones and equipment shelf/rack/table and all in it's immediate environment, perhaps even the whole room or dwelling.
If combustion is not achieved, then health concerns over toxic fumes would be a natural concern.
There is also the problem if the household fuse melts, thus depriving the whole power circuit of pulsating electrons.
 
All in all, it is a far greater desirability if the T2 were not such a potential electrical timebomb awaiting it's demise in an incendiary display of corruscating malevolence.
 
Perhaps, worst of all is that there will no longer be the amplification of sublime dulcet tones and mellifluous melodies for the owner, and others to delight themselves in.

 
Hells Bells!
Just take the lids off the boxes and point a fan at them. (the boxes, not the lids)

 Cool T2 - Problem solved!

 

[kevin gilmore]

Many people do take the top and bottom skins off the original T2 to help get rid of the heat.
 
Here are the real numbers. 
 
original T2
Amplifier box. 11.7 x 6.3 x 17.2 inches outside dimensions. 1267 cubic inches.  (WHD)
power supply box 8.34 x 5.43 x 16.43 inches outside dimensions 748 cubic inches.
 
inside are 4 x 6ca7 which are 10 watts of filament power each, 10 watts of plate power each
and 10 watts of current source each.  120 watts total. (actually closer to 150 watts with support circuitry)
4 x 6dj8 with 10 watts of filament power total, and 10 watts of current source total.
4 x active batteries at about 7 watts each.
 
total power inside the box about 200 watts.
 
my diy T2 is 16.75 inches deep, 3.05 inches high and 15.75 inches wide, the tubes sit on top of the box
and all the current sources are bolted to external heatsinks with a total surface area of about 600 square
inches of heatsink.

 

[purk]

   
Hells Bells!
Just take the lids off the boxes and point a fan at them. (the boxes, not the lids)

 Cool T2 - Problem solved!

How about a liquid cool?  Oh...never mind!

 

[magiccabbage]

  Many people do take the top and bottom skins off the original T2 to help get rid of the heat.
 
Here are the real numbers. 
 
original T2
Amplifier box. 11.7 x 6.3 x 17.2 inches outside dimensions. 1267 cubic inches.  (WHD)
power supply box 8.34 x 5.43 x 16.43 inches outside dimensions 748 cubic inches.
 
inside are 4 x 6ca7 which are 10 watts of filament power each, 10 watts of plate power each
and 10 watts of current source each.  120 watts total. (actually closer to 150 watts with support circuitry)
4 x 6dj8 with 10 watts of filament power total, and 10 watts of current source total.
4 x active batteries at about 7 watts each.
 
total power inside the box about 200 watts.
 
my diy T2 is 16.75 inches deep, 3.05 inches high and 15.75 inches wide, the tubes sit on top of the box
and all the current sources are bolted to external heatsinks with a total surface area of about 600 square
inches of heatsink.

have you got pics of that?

 

[NoPants]

^ I think there are more than enough pictures of both the DIY and the production T2 floating around google images

 

[magiccabbage]

  ^ I think there are more than enough pictures of both the DIY and the production T2 floating around google images

ok..... they all look the same? 

 

[NoPants]

All DIYT2's at the moment were cased via a group-buy effort on Kevin's part, he can probably offer more info on that, so they all use the same case yes. A fairly large undertaking from what I can imagine.

 

[kevin gilmore]

been posted before. starting with these.
The unit I had for 3 weeks was brand new in the box zero hour.
I put 100 hours on it, and it already showed evidence of heat issues.
 
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxt2-1.jpg
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxt2-2.jpg
...
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxt2-45.jpg
 
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis1.jpg
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis2.jpg
...
http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis29.jpg

 

[NoPants]

please tag as NSFW, almost got fired

 

[wink]

Quote:Live wire

  Hells Bells!
Just take the lids off the boxes and point a fan at them. (the boxes, not the lids)

 Cool T2 - Problem solved!

With all of the Stax earspeakers except the 4070 being open construction, the noise of the fan would impinge on the consciousness and remove
some of the more subtle layering of the information these marvels of electrostatic sonic reproduction can mine from the source material.
It would necessarily remove the prime reason for attaining these eloquent earspeakers.
Why not save a bundle of folderol and opt for a set of Grado SR60's from the start?

 

[livewire]

With all of the Stax earspeakers except the 4070 being open construction, the noise of the fan would impinge on the consciousness and remove
some of the more subtle layering of the information these marvels of electrostatic sonic reproduction can mine from the source material.
It would necessarily remove the prime reason for attaining these eloquent earspeakers.
Why not save a bundle of folderol and opt for a set of Grado SR60's from the start?

yeah well there's that.
i was just addressing the overheating issue in a snarky way.
have you ever gazed upon KG's first BH ?